replacing cranks

Assuming you don't have some funky cottered crank, there should be a
bolt you can unscrew to take off the crank. There might be a cap
covering it that you should be able to pry off with a screw driver.

--
phlegm
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You need to take out the bolt then use a crank puller. Available at any
bike store or UDC

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pdc - self proclaimed Level 3
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You likely wouldn't have to buy one, at my store they pull em off for
free. It takes like 30 seconds.

David

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darchibald - Trials and Street rider
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get a crank puller! you can buy them at you LBS usually no more then 20$
its kinda like a ratchet. i applied as much bruit force and ignorance as
i could muster without a crank puller and would not budge.

--
hungfromhooks - uni newbie

Philip Barbosa

people photographer- side show performer - newbie unicyclist

Witness an average man, flesh skewered deeply and imbedded with shark
fishing hooks! Marvel as a mere mortal fueled only by free will...
Ferociosly Pulls, twists, and stretches hooked apendages to transform
the pastey dermal landscape of his own hide and finally ascend to new
heights, literally!" This is NO ILLUSION! What you will see is real...
and remember ladies and gentlemen all this done without the assistance
of his unicycle.
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hungfromhooks said:

*get a crank puller! you can buy them at you LBS usually no more then
20$ its kinda like a ratchet. i applied as much bruit force and
ignorance as i could muster without a crank puller and would not
budge. *

This could've been me.

--
Memphis Mud - Student of GrandMaster 2T

Mantra: Avoid Hitting Tailbone...Avoid Hitting Tailbone...

"do not think, just ride"...muniracer
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This is the tool that you want: 'Park CWP-6'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=421) or the older
CWP-5. The older one has 14mm socket at the end while the newer one has
an 8mm hex (allen key) head at the end. Most unicycle hubs use the 14mm
nut so the older CWP-5 would be more convenient if you can find one.
You'll also need an 'adjustable wrench'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=430) to go along with
it.

There is also the 'Park CCP-2'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=420), but that one is
less convenient for unicycle use because you have to remove the pedals
to be able to use it. The problem is that the handle is too long and
the pedal gets in the way.

Here's a picture of the 'CWP-6 in use'
(http://www.parktool.com/tools/CWP_6BIG.shtml) and 'instructions on how
to install/remove a crank'
(http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQrCarm.shtml). There's lots of
other repair tips at the Park Tool web site.

--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo

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gasmaster said:

*i know that this is a REALLY stupid question, but i have no idea how
[...] to take a crank off of my uni. *

Not a stupid question at all.

And we can continue this thread when you need to put cranks back on the
unicycle. That should be a much more lively discussion (the hammer vs.
torque wrench camps can, um, hammer it out).

--
Dave Lowell - ___

Member of the
'New York Unicycle Club' (http://www.newyorkunicycle.com)

(i used to be uni57)
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It's just soooooo much easier than everyone makes it sound.

Remove the cap with a screw driver.

Remove the nut or bolt (it varies) with a 14 mm socket.

Use a proper crank puller (around £10 UK, under US$20) to remove the
crank.

Keep everything clean. Work methodically. Put the crank back on, and
tighten the nut/bolt. Ride for a short distance, then nip the nut/bolt
up a bit tighter.

No need for hammers, torque wrenches etc. Just common sense, and a bit
of mechanical sympathy.

--
Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

Everyone should be fatuous for 15 minutes.
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It's just soooooo much easier than everyone makes it sound.

Remove the cap with a screw driver.

Remove the nut or bolt (it varies) with a 14 mm socket.

Use a proper crank puller (around £10 UK, under US$20) to remove the
crank.

Keep everything clean. Work methodically. Put the crank back on, and
tighten the nut/bolt. Ride for a short distance, then nip the nut/bolt
up a bit tighter.

No need for hammers, torque wrenches etc. Just common sense, and a bit
of mechanical sympathy.

--
Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

Everyone should be fatuous for 15 minutes.
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This thread comes at a good time...

I just bought 140 mm cranks to replace the 170 mm cranks the KH26 came
with. I was going to swap them this weekend.

I assumed that all I had to do was to loosen the pinch bolt, unscrew the
axle bolt, and then I'd just be able to pull the crank off with my
hands. True? Or do I need a crank puller?

Any advice appreciated.

--
marcvg - Back in the saddle
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marcvg said:

*This thread comes at a good time...

I just bought 140 mm cranks to replace the 170 mm cranks the KH26 came
with. I was going to swap them this weekend.

I assumed that all I had to do was to loosen the pinch bolt, unscrew
the axle bolt, and then I'd just be able to pull the crank off with my
hands. True? Or do I need a crank puller?

Any advice appreciated. *

The crank pullers mentioned here are for square taper cranks like you'll
find on standard unicycles. Splined cranks like the KH, Profile, Onza
and others are different.

You should be able to remove the KH cranks by hand after loosening the
pinch bolt and removing the axle bolt. No fancy tool needed. If the
cranks have been bent or dented then they may be more difficult to
remove. If that is the case then see below.

Profile cranks can be a bit more difficult to remove. In those cases
you can use a 'bearing or pulley puller'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=419) to pull the cranks
off. If you have problems removing the KH cranks you can use the same
tool.

--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo

john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
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Dave Lowell said:

And we can continue this thread when you need to put cranks back on the
unicycle. That should be a much more lively discussion (the hammer vs.
torque wrench camps can, um, hammer it out).

Good point. I used to be in the hammer camp but converted to the
torque wrench camp. My advice for mounting cotterless cranks:

Put grease on the crank arm and/or square tapers, and also put grease
on the threads. That makes sure that as much as possible of the force
you're applying goes into tightening the cranks. I.e. less wear and
more reproducible.

Tapping with a hammer? WARNING!! Only very light taps are OK. But as
soon as the nut engages enough of the thread, don't use the hammer any
more. The sudden force of a hammer blow is likely to cause haircracks
to arise near the four corners of the crank hole, and once this
begins, the cracks tend to grow due to the forces of riding and even
of tightening. It is the beginning of the end for your crank!

The crank nut is not easily overtightened. For most systems, the best
tightening torque is around 40 lbs.ft. If you don't have a torque
wrench, you can use a normal wrench of 1 foot long and lean on the end
with a weight of 40 lbs. Or a half foot long wrench and lean with 80
lbs, etc. This is probably not easy to do exactly, but it gives an
idea about how tight the nut should be. Alternatively, you can put the
uni on a bathroom scale. Use a non-digital one, because most digital
scales need a stable weight to display a value at all. Then orient the
wheel such that you push down vertically on the wrench. Don't push or
pull on the uni while tightening. Subtract the weight of the uni +
half the weight of the wrench for extra precision...

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
--
"Deflating pi does not reduce calories, it just concentrates them. - billham"