Cannondale question

I had a Headshock on my 'dale MTB, a Fatty 70 I think, and when locked out it still had a tiny bit
of give to it. The LBS said Cannondale did not build them to lock out 100%. It felt like there was
just a little downward mechanical play, which the LBS said was correct. But sounds like you have a
fair amount, can you sense the spring/elastomer squishing down? LBS might have to inspect either
way. They had to rebuild mine twice even though it was new to get out a clicking sound. They've made
various models of the Headshock so who knows what's correct for that model. I was told it takes
certain tools to get them back together after a rebuild. BTW I have a T700 from '94 that I've used
as a commuter for 8 years, pre-Headshock.

Quoted message said:

Recently, I had one of my bikes for sale on mtbreveiw.com, and was emailed by someone else who had
their bike for sale and wanted to know if I was interested in trading. I agreed to, and now own a
2001 Cannondale F700. After close inspection by myself and the mechanic that built it up for me,
it appears the bike is in great shape and was not misused at all. It has a Headshock with a
lockout on it, and this is my first experience with any lockout on suspension. Now, common sense
would tell me, locked out, there is no travel at all, correct, or not? What I'm finding is, while
dismounted, holding the bike, when I have the switch to lockout, I firmly press down and the shock
still exhibits travel. It is not nearly as much as when not locked out, but it still travels. Good
or not good? I have had one Cannondale owner email me and tell me it may need to be rebuilt. I've
had one email me and tell me that it will still have travel to soak up big hits while locked out.
Help me please!

Eddiefel said:

I had a Headshock on my 'dale MTB, a Fatty 70 I think, and when locked out it still had a tiny bit
of give to it. The LBS said Cannondale did not build them to lock out 100%. It felt like there was
just a little downward mechanical play, which the LBS said was correct. But sounds like you have a
fair amount, can you sense the spring/elastomer squishing down? LBS might have to inspect either
way. They had to rebuild mine twice even though it was new to get out a clicking sound. They've
made various models of the Headshock so who knows what's correct for that model. I was told it
takes certain tools to get them back together after a rebuild. BTW I have a T700 from '94 that
I've used as a commuter for 8 years, pre-Headshock.

Quoted message said:

Recently, I had one of my bikes for sale on mtbreveiw.com, and was emailed by someone else who
had their bike for sale and wanted to know if I was interested in trading. I agreed to, and now
own a 2001 Cannondale F700. After close inspection by myself and the mechanic that built it up
for me, it appears the bike is in great shape and was not misused at all. It has a Headshock
with a lockout on it, and this is my first experience with any lockout on suspension. Now,
common sense would tell me, locked out, there is no travel at all, correct, or not? What I'm
finding is, while dismounted, holding the bike, when I have the switch to lockout, I firmly
press down and the shock still exhibits travel. It is not nearly as much as when not locked out,
but it still travels. Good or not good? I have had one Cannondale owner email me and tell me it
may need to be rebuilt. I've had one email me and tell me that it will still have travel to soak
up big hits while locked out. Help me please!

There is air in the system. Headshoks do not move when they are locked out.

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S R Sharp <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Eddiefel said:

I had a Headshock on my 'dale MTB, a Fatty 70 I think, and when locked out it still had a tiny
bit of give to it. The LBS said Cannondale did not build them to lock out 100%. It felt like
there was just a little downward mechanical play, which the LBS said was correct. But sounds
like you have a fair amount, can you sense the spring/elastomer squishing down? LBS might have
to inspect either way. They had to rebuild mine twice even though it was new to get out a
clicking sound. They've made various models of the Headshock so who knows what's correct for
that model. I was told it takes certain tools to get them back together after a rebuild. BTW I
have a T700 from '94 that I've used as a commuter for 8 years, pre-Headshock.

Quoted message said:

Recently, I had one of my bikes for sale on mtbreveiw.com, and was emailed by someone else who
had their bike for sale and wanted to know if I was interested in trading. I agreed to, and
now own a 2001 Cannondale F700. After close inspection by myself and the mechanic that built
it up for me, it appears the bike is in great shape and was not misused at all. It has a
Headshock with a lockout on it, and this is my first experience with any lockout on
suspension. Now, common sense would tell me, locked out, there is no travel at all, correct,
or not? What I'm finding is, while dismounted, holding the bike, when I have the switch to
lockout, I firmly press down and the shock still exhibits travel. It is not nearly as much as
when not locked out, but it still travels. Good or not good? I have had one Cannondale owner
email me and tell me it may need to be rebuilt. I've had one email me and tell me that it will
still have travel to soak up big hits while locked out. Help me please!

There is air in the system. Headshoks do not move when they are locked out.

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Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =----

I assume, as others have suggested, that it will need rebuilt then? If not, how to take care of the
problem, and if it needs rebuilt, any idea how much it costs to do so?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

There is air in the system. Headshoks do not move when they are locked out.

I assume, as others have suggested, that it will need rebuilt then? If not, how to take care of
the problem, and if it needs rebuilt, any idea how much it costs to do so?

The cartridge needs to be topped off with oil, this requires a couple of special tools. Good time to
change the seals and oil too. Cost would probably be around $25-35.

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when not locked out is the shock travel quiet or noisy? - "squishy" noise that lessens after a few
compressions will back up the idea that there is air in the system - more oil required This is
hardly a rebuild, but does require a pin spanner and a proprietary tool - the "castle" tool, and of
course some 5wt shock oil. Now if the travel was silent and the shock blows past the lockout only
when you push down slowly - but not when you push quickly represents a little more of an issue. My
C'dale rep. has replaced my cartridge in the past rather than rectify this problem.

drop me a line if you have more headshock questions

nick

If the travel is silent then the problem is worse <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]... S R Sharp <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Eddiefel said:

I had a Headshock on my 'dale MTB, a Fatty 70 I think, and when locked out it still had a tiny
bit of give to it. The LBS said Cannondale did not build them to lock out 100%. It felt like
there was just a little downward mechanical play, which the LBS said was correct. But sounds
like you have a fair amount, can you sense the spring/elastomer squishing down? LBS might have
to inspect either way. They had to rebuild mine twice even though it was new to get out a
clicking sound. They've made various models of the Headshock so who knows what's correct for
that model. I was told it takes certain tools to get them back together after a rebuild. BTW I
have a T700 from '94 that I've used as a commuter for 8 years, pre-Headshock.

Quoted message said:

Recently, I had one of my bikes for sale on mtbreveiw.com, and was emailed by someone else who
had their bike for sale and wanted to know if I was interested in trading. I agreed to, and
now own a 2001 Cannondale F700. After close inspection by myself and the mechanic that built
it up for me, it appears the bike is in great shape and was not misused at all. It has a
Headshock with a lockout on it, and this is my first experience with any lockout on
suspension. Now, common sense would tell me, locked out, there is no travel at all, correct,
or not? What I'm finding is, while dismounted, holding the bike, when I have the switch to
lockout, I firmly press down and the shock still exhibits travel. It is not nearly as much as
when not locked out, but it still travels. Good or not good? I have had one Cannondale owner
email me and tell me it may need to be rebuilt. I've had one email me and tell me that it will
still have travel to soak up big hits while locked out. Help me please!

There is air in the system. Headshoks do not move when they are locked

out.

Quoted message said:

-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- newsfeeds.comnewsfeeds.comOpen ↗ - The #1
Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =----

I assume, as others have suggested, that it will need rebuilt then? If not, how to take care of the
problem, and if it needs rebuilt, any idea how much it costs to do so?

"Nicholas & Domino" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

when not locked out is the shock travel quiet or noisy? - "squishy" noise that lessens after a few
compressions will back up the idea that there is air in the system - more oil required This is
hardly a rebuild, but does require a pin spanner and a proprietary tool - the "castle" tool, and
of course some 5wt shock oil. Now if the travel was silent and the shock blows past the lockout
only when you push down slowly - but not when you push quickly represents a little more of an
issue. My C'dale rep. has replaced my cartridge in the past rather than rectify this problem.

drop me a line if you have more headshock questions

nick

If the travel is silent then the problem is worse <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]... S R Sharp <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Eddiefel said:

I had a Headshock on my 'dale MTB, a Fatty 70 I think, and when locked out it still had a tiny
bit of give to it. The LBS said Cannondale did not build them to lock out 100%. It felt like
there was just a little downward mechanical play, which the LBS said was correct. But sounds
like you have a fair amount, can you sense the spring/elastomer squishing down? LBS might have
to inspect either way. They had to rebuild mine twice even though it was new to get out a
clicking sound. They've made various models of the Headshock so who knows what's correct for
that model. I was told it takes certain tools to get them back together after a rebuild. BTW I
have a T700 from '94 that I've used as a commuter for 8 years, pre-Headshock.

[email hidden] wrote:

> Recently, I had one of my bikes for sale on mtbreveiw.com, and was emailed by someone else
> who had their bike for sale and wanted to know if I was interested in trading. I agreed to,
> and now own a 2001 Cannondale F700. After close inspection by myself and the mechanic that
> built it up for me, it appears the bike is in great shape and was not misused at all. It has
> a Headshock with a lockout on it, and this is my first experience with any lockout on
> suspension. Now, common sense would tell me, locked out, there is no travel at all, correct,
> or not? What I'm finding is, while dismounted, holding the bike, when I have the switch to
> lockout, I firmly press down and the shock still exhibits travel. It is not nearly as much
> as when not locked out, but it still travels. Good or not good? I have had one Cannondale
> owner email me and tell me it may need to be rebuilt. I've had one email me and tell me that
> it will still have travel to soak up big hits while locked out. Help me please!
>

There is air in the system. Headshoks do not move when they are locked

out.

Quoted message said:

-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- newsfeeds.comnewsfeeds.comOpen ↗ - The #1
Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =----

I assume, as others have suggested, that it will need rebuilt then? If not, how to take care of
the problem, and if it needs rebuilt, any idea how much it costs to do so?

I called the local (yeah, 45 miles away) Cannondale dealership today, and I'm just going to run the
bike down Saturday and let him see for himself. I tried to tell him everything, and he basically
said, maybe, maybe not anything wrong with it.

[email hidden] wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

"Nicholas & Domino" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

when not locked out is the shock travel quiet or noisy? - "squishy" noise that lessens after a
few compressions will back up the idea that there is air in the system - more oil required This
is hardly a rebuild, but does require a pin spanner and a proprietary tool - the "castle" tool,
and of course some 5wt shock oil. Now if the travel was silent and the shock blows past the
lockout only when you push down slowly - but not when you push quickly represents a little more
of an issue. My C'dale rep. has replaced my cartridge in the past rather than rectify this
problem.

drop me a line if you have more headshock questions

nick

If the travel is silent then the problem is worse <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]... S R Sharp <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Eddiefel wrote:

> I had a Headshock on my 'dale MTB, a Fatty 70 I think, and when locked out it still had a
> tiny bit of give to it. The LBS said Cannondale did not build them to lock out 100%. It felt
> like there was just a little downward mechanical play, which the LBS said was correct. But
> sounds like you have a fair amount, can you sense the spring/elastomer squishing down? LBS
> might have to inspect either way. They had to rebuild mine twice even though it was new to
> get out a clicking sound. They've made various models of the Headshock so who knows what's
> correct for that model. I was told it takes certain tools to get them back together after a
> rebuild. BTW I have a T700 from '94 that I've used as a commuter for 8 years, pre-Headshock.
>
> [email hidden] wrote:
>
> > Recently, I had one of my bikes for sale on mtbreveiw.com, and was emailed by someone else
> > who had their bike for sale and wanted to know if I was interested in trading. I agreed
> > to, and now own a 2001 Cannondale F700. After close inspection by myself and the mechanic
> > that built it up for me, it appears the bike is in great shape and was not misused at all.
> > It has a Headshock with a lockout on it, and this is my first experience with any lockout
> > on suspension. Now, common sense would tell me, locked out, there is no travel at all,
> > correct, or not? What I'm finding is, while dismounted, holding the bike, when I have the
> > switch to lockout, I firmly press down and the shock still exhibits travel. It is not
> > nearly as much as when not locked out, but it still travels. Good or not good? I have had
> > one Cannondale owner email me and tell me it may need to be rebuilt. I've had one email me
> > and tell me that it will still have travel to soak up big hits while locked out. Help me
> > please!
> >

There is air in the system. Headshoks do not move when they are locked

out.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- newsfeeds.comnewsfeeds.comOpen ↗ - The
#1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers!
=----

I assume, as others have suggested, that it will need rebuilt then? If not, how to take care of
the problem, and if it needs rebuilt, any idea how much it costs to do so?

I called the local (yeah, 45 miles away) Cannondale dealership today, and I'm just going to run
the bike down Saturday and let him see for himself. I tried to tell him everything, and he
basically said, maybe, maybe not anything wrong with it.

Well, the mystery is finally over. I took it to the Cannondale shop today. I had rode it on Thursday
night, and it felt like something was loose, like the whole headset was loose, but when I would
shake the front end, nothing was. Anways, the mechanic takes apart the shock, and the cartridge
needs replaced. It appears that possibly some dirt got down in there and actually scarred the
surface of the cartridge. I won't explain any further, other then they are going to get me a whole
new cartridge.

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

"Nicholas & Domino" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

when not locked out is the shock travel quiet or noisy? - "squishy" noise that lessens after a
few compressions will back up the idea that there is air in the system - more oil required This
is hardly a rebuild, but does require a pin spanner and a proprietary tool - the "castle" tool,
and of course some 5wt shock oil. Now if the travel was silent and the shock blows past the
lockout only when you push down slowly - but not when you push quickly represents a little more
of an issue. My C'dale rep. has replaced my cartridge in the past rather than rectify this
problem.

drop me a line if you have more headshock questions

nick

If the travel is silent then the problem is worse <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]... S R Sharp <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:<[email hidden]>...

>Eddiefel wrote:
>
>
>>I had a Headshock on my 'dale MTB, a Fatty 70 I think, and when locked out it still had a tiny
>>bit of give to it. The LBS said Cannondale did not build them to lock out 100%. It felt like
>>there was just a little downward mechanical play, which the LBS said was correct. But sounds
>>like you have a fair amount, can you sense the spring/elastomer squishing down? LBS might have
>>to inspect either way. They had to rebuild mine twice even though it was new to get out a
>>clicking sound. They've made various models of the Headshock so who knows what's correct for
>>that model. I was told it takes certain tools to get them back together after a rebuild. BTW I
>>have a T700 from '94 that I've used as a commuter for 8 years, pre-Headshock.
>>
>>[email hidden] wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Recently, I had one of my bikes for sale on mtbreveiw.com, and was emailed by someone else who
>>>had their bike for sale and wanted to know if I was interested in trading. I agreed to, and
>>>now own a 2001 Cannondale F700. After close inspection by myself and the mechanic that built
>>>it up for me, it appears the bike is in great shape and was not misused at all. It has a
>>>Headshock with a lockout on it, and this is my first experience with any lockout on
>>>suspension. Now, common sense would tell me, locked out, there is no travel at all, correct,
>>>or not? What I'm finding is, while dismounted, holding the bike, when I have the switch to
>>>lockout, I firmly press down and the shock still exhibits travel. It is not nearly as much as
>>>when not locked out, but it still travels. Good or not good? I have had one Cannondale owner
>>>email me and tell me it may need to be rebuilt. I've had one email me and tell me that it will
>>>still have travel to soak up big hits while locked out. Help me please!
>>>
>
>There is air in the system. Headshoks do not move when they are locked

out.

Quoted message said:

>
>
>-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- newsfeeds.comnewsfeeds.comOpen ↗ - The #1
>Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =----

I assume, as others have suggested, that it will need rebuilt then? If not, how to take care of
the problem, and if it needs rebuilt, any idea how much it costs to do so?

I called the local (yeah, 45 miles away) Cannondale dealership today, and I'm just going to run
the bike down Saturday and let him see for himself. I tried to tell him everything, and he
basically said, maybe, maybe not anything wrong with it.

Well, the mystery is finally over. I took it to the Cannondale shop today. I had rode it on
Thursday night, and it felt like something was loose, like the whole headset was loose, but when I
would shake the front end, nothing was. Anways, the mechanic takes apart the shock, and the
cartridge needs replaced. It appears that possibly some dirt got down in there and actually
scarred the surface of the cartridge. I won't explain any further, other then they are going to
get me a whole new cartridge.

This may be too late...

BUT, if the cartridge is history from corrosion or grit, the bearings will probably need work also.
The cannondale head shok and lefty forks use 4 sets of linear bearings -- 22 needle bearings each,
front/back/right/left. These are very tight tolerances (less and .001"😉, so that need to be clean!

If the fork's already back together. Cut the top cable-tie and pull the boot down. You can see the
bottoms of the inner races. They should be clean and shiny with a good film of grease on them. If
they are, refresh the grease (a good quality synthetic -- I use Phil's bearing grease) a put a new
cable tie on.

Lower the air pressure so that you can cycle the fork through it's full travel with your body
weight. Ideally, it should be totally smooth. If there is only a little roughness or it seems to
slightly ratchet down, the bearings or races have a rust spot at the rest point of each needle and
the slight resistence is the next bearing crossing it. I've riden my lefty like this for many
k-miles with no problems. But, if the glitches are more than minor, take it back to the shop and
have them check the bearings (and hope that they know how -- an inexperienced mechanic can make a
mess of a head shok by getting the races back in the wrong place <sigh> -- each one may be a
different thickness).

David