xtr v brake service

"qa2" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

How do you get to the bearings at the v-brake pivots? There are two
nuts under the rubber boot/seal but the pad pivot lever looks like it is
in the way. The lever looks like it is pressed on the pivot. I don't
want to experiment because when I do that I usually break what I am
experimenting on. Does anyone have any tips or past experience on doing
this kind of service. I just came back from riding in the worst
conditions I have ever rode in (24 hour race in the rain) and need to
service all the moving parts on the bike.

You rode in that crazy race in Mississippi?

It was a blast. Our team from Memphis (MSTA) took second place. I
would suggest everyone who really likes to mountain bike do one of those
24 hour races. Wet caly, mud, sand and pine needles make a good mix for
mountain bike parts.

mojo deluxe said:

"qa2" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

How do you get to the bearings at the v-brake pivots? There are two
nuts under the rubber boot/seal but the pad pivot lever looks like it is
in the way. The lever looks like it is pressed on the pivot. I don't
want to experiment because when I do that I usually break what I am
experimenting on. Does anyone have any tips or past experience on doing
this kind of service. I just came back from riding in the worst
conditions I have ever rode in (24 hour race in the rain) and need to
service all the moving parts on the bike.

You rode in that crazy race in Mississippi?

Search123 * Fast search the web.
,³You will need to remove the brakes from the bike. Pry the round,
splined connector that is joined to the dog bone with a small flat blade
screw driver. Going arond it a small bit at a time and be gentle. You can
then remove the rubber boot and expose a 13mm and 17mm nut. Make sure you
have a tray lined with paper to catch any loose bearings. There are two
bearing races with the smallest bearing you have ever seen. Remove these and
clean the bearings and the surfaces they rotate on, rebuild with good
quality grease making sure the bearings are not too tight. Make sure the pad
holder and dogbone are in the correct postion and press the splined
connector back in place. This is a little tricky but the brakes will fell
100% better and should not develop any play.

Cheers

David

"qa2" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

It was a blast. Our team from Memphis (MSTA) took second place. I
would suggest everyone who really likes to mountain bike do one of those
24 hour races. Wet caly, mud, sand and pine needles make a good mix for
mountain bike parts.

The guy I knew that raced in it dropped after 8 hours. All of the muck took
a toll on his bike.

Check out this link, they have some pic's from the race.

http://album.sweetspotbikes.com

mojo deluxe said:

"qa2" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

It was a blast. Our team from Memphis (MSTA) took second place. I
would suggest everyone who really likes to mountain bike do one of those
24 hour races. Wet caly, mud, sand and pine needles make a good mix for
mountain bike parts.

The guy I knew that raced in it dropped after 8 hours. All of the muck took
a toll on his bike.

Thanks, worked like a charm. My brakes feel like new again.

Bailes said:

Search123 * Fast search the web.
,³You will need to remove the brakes from the bike. Pry the round,
splined connector that is joined to the dog bone with a small flat blade
screw driver. Going arond it a small bit at a time and be gentle. You can
then remove the rubber boot and expose a 13mm and 17mm nut. Make sure you
have a tray lined with paper to catch any loose bearings. There are two
bearing races with the smallest bearing you have ever seen. Remove these and
clean the bearings and the surfaces they rotate on, rebuild with good
quality grease making sure the bearings are not too tight. Make sure the pad
holder and dogbone are in the correct postion and press the splined
connector back in place. This is a little tricky but the brakes will fell
100% better and should not develop any play.

Cheers

David