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Wobbly Hub

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UK and Europe
Published
2 June 2004
Last activity
3 June 2004
Original author
Keith Willoughby
Posts
43
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  1. You might remember me mentioning a rear hub with play in it last week. I
    finally got round to taking it to my LBS - Tongwynlais Cyclecare. After
    the last time I went there, I swore I wouldn't go again. I've been there
    twice, I spend money twice, but I got the feeling he thought he was
    doing me a favour. Very brusque, not friendly, not forthcoming.

    I decided to back anyway - it's 6 miles away, the next nearest is
    probably more like 9 or 10, and I at least knew how to get to this one.

    I went in, told him what the problem was, and asked him to adjust the
    cone. He told me he'd have to strip it down to find out the
    problem. Fair enough, I thought. I'd rather he just tightened it a bit
    to see if that worked, but his way was the right way to go. He then told
    me that if there was a problem in the hub, it wouldn't go back
    together. So, I asked - what's the worst case? If there's a problem with
    the cup, I'd have to get a new hub or a new wheel? "I'll have to look
    inside to find out". Yeah, I reply, but what else could be wrong? Could
    you replace the cone? If it doesn't go back together, I've got no way to
    get home other than carrying a dead bike. "That's the way it is", he
    replies rather sarkily. "I'm not doing half a job".

    So, I left. This time, I'm *definitely* not going back. Tongwynlais
    Cyclecare, people. Not recommended.

    So, I still have a wobbly hub. If it needs stripping, I might as well
    do it myself, I guess. At least if it's broken, I won't have to
    walk home 🙂

    I have Zinn to guide me, but just to check with you lot - what do I
    need?

    A couple of cone spanners (or would one cone spanner and an
    adjustable do?). Are there any clever ways I can find out what size
    spanner I need, rather than trying to find a ruler and measuring it,
    with all the innacuracy involved there?

    Grease.

    A casette removing tool? How do I find out what kind I need? Hell, how
    do I tell a casette from a free-wheel type? (It's a ~5 year old Giant
    MTB, 7 speed cogs)

    A chain whip? Or am I barking up the wrong tree with that?

    Anything else?

    --
    Keith Willoughby http://flat222.org/keith/
    "And we were singing hymns and arias"

  2. Keith Willoughby said:

    So, I left. This time, I'm *definitely* not going back. Tongwynlais
    Cyclecare, people. Not recommended.

    You are not the only one. I read with great interest a thread all about this
    shop on the Cycling Plus forum. I can't find it now, though. Will post it
    when I find it -- actually it's very funny -- you should only go there when
    there's a hat in the shop window!

  3. Here:

    http://www.cyclingplus.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=17887&SearchTerms=tongwynlais

    Read it to the end to find out about the mysterious hat!

  4. Sorry, it's this one:

    http://www.mtb-wales.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=XForum&file=viewthread&tid=2017#pid27096

    Simon

  5. Simonb said:
    Keith Willoughby said:

    So, I left. This time, I'm *definitely* not going back. Tongwynlais
    Cyclecare, people. Not recommended.

    You are not the only one. I read with great interest a thread all about this
    shop on the Cycling Plus forum. I can't find it now, though. Will post it
    when I find it

    Yeah, please do. I'm glad to see it's not just me.

    I bought my clipless pedals and shoes down in Reg Braddick's, in
    Cardiff. The service in there was absolutely first class, and I thanked
    the guy and told him he was nothing like "the miserable git" in
    Tongwynlais. He snorted, I asked him if he knew the other guy, he said
    "no, but I've heard of him".

    Quoted message said:

    -- actually it's very funny -- you should only go there when there's a
    hat in the shop window!

    !!

    --
    Keith Willoughby http://flat222.org/keith/
    Speicherzugriffsfehler

  6. Simonb said:

    Sorry, it's this one:

    http://www.mtb-wales.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=XForum&file=viewthread&tid=2017#pid27096

    Ha! Yup, exactly my experiences. I'll have to look out for the hat . . .

    They're right about the thousands of quids worth of bikes going past his
    shop, too. I've seen several people in MTB gear, Camelbaks, and very
    expensive-looking full-sus bikes going past, presumably up to Castell
    Coch. (One of them did some very impressive-but-posy jumps over the many
    speed-humps through the village)

    --
    Keith Willoughby http://flat222.org/keith/
    Husker Du Du Du, Captain Beefheart, ELO

  7. Keith Willoughby:

    Quoted message said:

    So, I still have a wobbly hub. If it needs stripping, I might as well
    do it myself, I guess.

    I was surprised at how easy a job it turned out to be when I did it. The
    thing to remember is when you remove the axle, be careful not to lose any
    bearings that may fall out.

    Quoted message said:

    A couple of cone spanners (or would one cone spanner and an
    adjustable do?).

    I managed it without cone spanners. Not ideal though. Aside from simple
    trial-and-error, I'm afraid I don't know how you work out what size spanner
    you need. You should be OK with just one spanner though - You won't be able
    to use a second spanner anyway since you'll need one hand free to stop the
    axle rotating.

    Quoted message said:

    Grease.

    Yup. Others know more about this than me, but I use a standard all-purpose
    grease with teflon. Make sure you don't put too much grease in the bearing
    races or it will just ooze out all over the place when you put the wheel
    back together.

    Quoted message said:

    A casette removing tool?

    You won't need to remove the cassette to service the hub. I think. Maybe it
    depends on the wheel. I managed to service my rear wheel without removing
    the freewheel. It was a bit fiddly reaching inside to clean and grease the
    bearing track but not actually difficult. I think with freehubs the bearings
    are closer to the end of the axle, making it easier still.

    Quoted message said:

    How do I find out what kind I need?

    They are standard shapes. You need to look at the shape of the inner
    perimeter of the locknut to work out which tool you need. More info here,
    including pictures to help you correctly identify what you've got - chances
    are it's a shimano hyperglide:
    <URL:http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml>

    And here are their instructions on hub servicing - again, with pictures:
    <URL:http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_hub.shtml>

    d.

  8. me:

    Quoted message said:

    You won't need to remove the cassette to service the hub. I think. Maybe


    it

    Quoted message said:

    depends on the wheel.

    I just noticed the Park site says you *do* need to remove the cassette to
    service a freehub type wheel.

    d.

  9. davek said:

    Keith Willoughby:

    Quoted message said:

    So, I still have a wobbly hub. If it needs stripping, I might as well
    do it myself, I guess.

    I was surprised at how easy a job it turned out to be when I did it. The
    thing to remember is when you remove the axle, be careful not to lose any
    bearings that may fall out.

    Indeed..

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    A couple of cone spanners (or would one cone spanner and an
    adjustable do?).

    I managed it without cone spanners. Not ideal though. Aside from simple
    trial-and-error, I'm afraid I don't know how you work out what size spanner
    you need.

    Cone spanners are well worth it. Don't buy the cheap ones which are [censored].
    The shimano ones or the park ones are great.

    Quoted message said:

    You should be OK with just one spanner though - You won't be able
    to use a second spanner anyway since you'll need one hand free to stop the
    axle rotating.

    don't understand this at all. One spanner one side of the wheel, one the
    other. No bother. You should only need to undo one side. I find it easier to
    do the non-cassette side.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Grease

    Quoted message said:

    Yup. Others know more about this than me, but I use a standard all-purpose
    grease with teflon. Make sure you don't put too much grease in the bearing
    races or it will just ooze out all over the place when you put the wheel
    back together.

    When you have removed all the balls and the axle, clean out the bearing
    races.
    Check the axle to see if it is bent. Look at the bearing races to see if
    they are pitted (on cones and cups).
    Then put a thick smear of grease in the bearing cups and the balls should
    stick to this while you put the axle in. Don't worry about putting too much
    grease in, the more the merrier (and messier).

    Bear in mind that some greases contain compounds that should not have skin
    contact for prolonged periods. Cleanliness is next to godliness.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    A casette removing tool?


    Won't need it. Don't need to take the cassette off.

    ...d

  10. David Martin:

    Quoted message said:

    don't understand this at all. One spanner one side of the wheel, one the
    other. No bother.

    Maybe it's just me, but I found that when I tried to turn the cone, the
    whole axle assembly turned, so I had to hold the axle itself while I
    unscrewed the cone.

    Quoted message said:

    You should only need to undo one side. I find it easier to
    do the non-cassette side.

    Indeed. Leaving one cone in situ also helps when putting everything back
    together - no need to worry about getting the spacing right.

    d.

  11. davek said:

    me:

    Quoted message said:

    You won't need to remove the cassette to service the hub. I think. Maybe


    it

    Quoted message said:

    depends on the wheel.

    I just noticed the Park site says you *do* need to remove the cassette to
    service a freehub type wheel.

    Only if you are fully servicing it (ie freehub bearings), not to just do the
    axle and bearings.

    Either that or I just do magic because I don't need to take the cassette
    off.

    ...d

  12. davek said:
    Quoted message said:

    don't understand this at all. One spanner one side of the wheel, one the
    other. No bother.

    Maybe it's just me, but I found that when I tried to turn the cone, the
    whole axle assembly turned, so I had to hold the axle itself while I
    unscrewed the cone.

    Cone spanner on cone. Other spanner on lock nut. No worries.

    Then when they are loose, spanner on tight cone/locknut, turn the loose oens
    off with the other spanner.

    ...d

  13. davek said:

    David Martin:

    Cheers fellas!

    Anyone know if Halfords sell decent cone spanners? As I'm boycotting obnoxious
    LBS, Halfords is now the easiest place to go.

    --
    Keith Willoughby http://flat222.org/keith/
    Votad Al Frente Popular

  14. On 2/6/04 1:50 pm, in article [email hidden], "Keith

    Willoughby said:
    davek said:

    David Martin:

    Cheers fellas!

    Anyone know if Halfords sell decent cone spanners? As I'm boycotting obnoxious
    LBS, Halfords is now the easiest place to go.

    Only if they are teh Park or shimano ones. The cheap ones I had (that were a
    waste of money and totally useless) were from Halfords in about 1990ish.

    Wiggle do the Park ones. You can get away with just one, though I prefer to
    have two. At a guess you should get the 13-14mm one, though getting both the
    13-14 and 15-16 (one of each) will cover you.

    ...d

  15. Keith Willoughby said:

    I have Zinn to guide me, but just to check with you lot - what do I
    need?

    A couple of cone spanners (or would one cone spanner and an
    adjustable do?). Are there any clever ways I can find out what size
    spanner I need, rather than trying to find a ruler and measuring it,
    with all the innacuracy involved there?

    Keith, get a pair of cone spanners from Mike Dyasons (not expensive), plus
    two ordinary spanners that fit your locknuts. Adjustable spanner(s) can
    be used intead but it's much easier with normal spanners. See Sheldon
    Brown's instructions (and clever tricks on using two spanners of the same
    size simultanously) for adjusting cones. They work!

    These particular cone spanners have multi sizes - they're bound to suit.
    Get a set of basic spanners for the locknuts. One of them hopefully will
    fit, then buy another single spanner or use an adjustable one in addition.
    They will be metric.

    Sorry I haven't got time for providing URLs now. Google! Good luck!

    Quoted message said:

    Grease.

    Ordinary waterproof general purpose grease will do, or get some bike brand
    from another bike shop or Halfrauds.

    Quoted message said:

    A casette removing tool? How do I find out what kind I need? Hell, how
    do I tell a casette from a free-wheel type? (It's a ~5 year old Giant
    MTB, 7 speed cogs)

    See Sheldon brown for distinguising them. Get chainwhip and cassette
    remover from Dyason's (the one type they have suits Shimano), but if
    freewheel, you'll need a different tool and a lot of force. A vice helps.
    Could instead get a bike shop to remove it for you, then do rest of work
    yourself.

    Quoted message said:

    A chain whip? Or am I barking up the wrong tree with that?

    Needed to remove cassette only (not freewheel).

    Quoted message said:


    Anything else?

    That'll do I think.

    ~PB

  16. David Martin said:

    On 2/6/04 1:50 pm, in article [email hidden], "Keith

    Willoughby said:


    Anyone know if Halfords sell decent cone spanners? As I'm boycotting obnoxious
    LBS, Halfords is now the easiest place to go.

    Only if they are teh Park or shimano ones. The cheap ones I had (that were a
    waste of money and totally useless) were from Halfords in about 1990ish.

    Ah, OK. I might take a wander over anyway.

    Quoted message said:

    Wiggle do the Park ones. You can get away with just one, though I prefer to
    have two. At a guess you should get the 13-14mm one, though getting both the
    13-14 and 15-16 (one of each) will cover you.

    I just found some crappy spanners, and it appears that it's a 15mm. (The
    14 is too small. The 15 would be the right size if the spanner wasn't so
    crappy)

    If Halfords doesn't have good ones, I'll get a 13/15 or 15/16 from
    Wiggle. I can use an adjustable for the locknut, I guess.

    --
    Keith Willoughby http://flat222.org/keith/
    What ain't we got? We ain't got mates

  17. "David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On 2/6/04 1:50 pm, in article [email hidden], "Keith

    Willoughby said:
    davek said:

    David Martin:

    Cheers fellas!

    Anyone know if Halfords sell decent cone spanners? As I'm boycotting


    obnoxious

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    LBS, Halfords is now the easiest place to go.

    Only if they are teh Park or shimano ones. The cheap ones I had (that were a
    waste of money and totally useless) were from Halfords in about 1990ish.

    Halfords do sell the Park stuff.

    Quoted message said:

    Wiggle do the Park ones. You can get away with just one, though I prefer to
    have two. At a guess you should get the 13-14mm one, though getting both the
    13-14 and 15-16 (one of each) will cover you.

    Park used to do a set of two identical spanners, on one end a 13/15 and the
    other a 14/16. They work well.
    --
    Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen

  18. On 2/6/04 3:23 pm, in article [email hidden], "Keith

    Willoughby said:

    I just found some crappy spanners, and it appears that it's a 15mm. (The
    14 is too small. The 15 would be the right size if the spanner wasn't so
    crappy)

    Use the crappy spanner for the locknut (should be 15mm) and the shiny new
    cone spanner for the cone.
    Adjustables are the produce of stan (though I have a number of them up to
    18" stilsons. Not quite as bad as my dad who has some 30" stilsons. ouch!)

    ...d

  19. "David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On 2/6/04 3:23 pm, in article [email hidden], "Keith

    Willoughby said:

    I just found some crappy spanners, and it appears that it's a 15mm. (The
    14 is too small. The 15 would be the right size if the spanner wasn't so
    crappy)

    Use the crappy spanner for the locknut (should be 15mm) and the shiny new
    cone spanner for the cone.

    Correct.

    Quoted message said:

    Adjustables are the produce of stan

    Not well-made ones. Look at those made by Bahco sometime.
    --
    Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen, Tool User

  20. Keith Willoughby <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I went in, told him what the problem was, and asked him to adjust the
    cone. He told me he'd have to strip it down to find out the
    problem. Fair enough, I thought. I'd rather he just tightened it a bit
    to see if that worked, but his way was the right way to go. He then told
    me that if there was a problem in the hub, it wouldn't go back
    together.

    How could it not go back together? If you bring a rideable wheel to a
    decent bike mechanic he should be able to get inside the hub and at
    least put it back into a similarly rideable mode for you, no matter
    what horror stories he finds inside. (Short of needing an
    oxy-acetylene torch to get inside it.) You really do need to learn to
    service your own wheels to free yourself from this sort of nonsense.

    --
    Dave...

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