WIPPERMAN CONNEX LINK MATES SHIMANO CHAIN!

Uh, yeah, it does. Not news. More like olds.
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Quoted message said:

not does it yet.
lacking the $10 caliper(again)i eyeballed the connex first thing in the
morning and mounted it on a new hg50 8 speed.
no go. the connex seems too thick-that is the pin doesn't stick out as
far as the sram link does.

You probably got their 9-speed link, then.

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Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Quoted message said:

not does it yet.
lacking the $10 caliper(again)i eyeballed the connex first thing in
the morning and mounted it on a new hg50 8 speed.
no go. the connex seems too thick-that is the pin doesn't stick out as
far as the sram link does.
i'm filing.
qeustions is is the conex thickness the only trip for mounting to the
shimano chain?? or is there anbother flaw to overcome?

by the way, the curved connex clasp design allows easy removal-press
adjacent links together with pliers and [pop] out she comes.

Argh! Never use pliers!
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Quoted message said:

not does it yet.
lacking the $10 caliper(again)i eyeballed the connex first
thing in the morning and mounted it on a new hg50 8 speed.
no go.

[...]

I had the same experience. The 8 speed Connex link has an interior
dimension of about 4.25mm. The outer width of the inner side plates on
my Shimano 7/8 speed chain (CN-HG91) is about 4.5mm. Therefore the 8
speed Connex link will not fit these chains. The Craig Superlink, and
the Sram Powerlink also do not fit.

I like Shimano HyperGlide chains for their shifting performance, and
did not want to substitute a different brand. I ended up closing the
chain with a KMC 'Missing Link', 6/7 speed.

The Missing Link is designed to be a single use link: it installs
extremely securely, and to remove you must drive the pin out. I know
some of you folks have been able to work it loose for multiple
reinstallations, but it's not easy like a Connex.

To improve matters, I carefully filed away one side of the Missing Link
keyhole, in order to aid removal and reinstallation. The shape of the
hole now bears resemblence to the Connex 'V' shape, and functions in a
similar way- almost as easy. I installed it in the same orientation as
recommended by Wippermann, as well.

Best of both worlds: HyperGlide shifts, and a reusable master link.
This has been a good compromise for a 7 speed drivetrain.

Nicholas

as archived-there's a spectrum of application-some say the connex works
on shimano, some say the sram power link doesn't work on shimano?

the connex i put on a hg50 8 speed was too thick as stated
herein-.20-.25 mm or less too thick. the links' posts, sram v. connex
when mounted into the hg50 and compared-show that difference of .20 or
less which is more than enolugh to screw it up tight good yet still
mount and dismount using plier off course.

beats me on why sram doesn't work on hg50? no problems here with that
ceptin ona new chain/link i wish for a biketoolsect.com did you mean
link removal plier!

the next morning i mounted the new chain used with connex now linked
with a used sram powerlink

erk erk erk clank erk went the chain as i rode into werk.
expletive deletedx5
duh-mounted the old chain. new chain's still good: fileum, then drain
off the fat.
shade tree mistake common to furrari-coontach mechanics-compound
mistakes leading to long chases acorss the serengeti

Quoted message said:

as archived-there's a spectrum of application-some say the connex
works on shimano, some say the sram power link doesn't work on
shimano?

the connex i put on a hg50 8 speed was too thick as stated
herein-.20-.25 mm or less too thick. the links' posts, sram v. connex
when mounted into the hg50 and compared-show that difference of .20
or less which is more than enolugh to screw it up tight good yet still
mount and dismount using plier off course.

Don't use pliers.

Quoted message said:

beats me on why sram doesn't work on hg50? no problems here with that
ceptin ona new chain/link i wish for a biketoolsect.com did you mean
link removal plier!

Don't use pliers.

Quoted message said:

the next morning i mounted the new chain used with connex now linked
with a used sram powerlink

erk erk erk clank erk went the chain as i rode into werk.
expletive deletedx5
duh-mounted the old chain. new chain's still good: fileum, then drain
off the fat.
shade tree mistake common to furrari-coontach mechanics-compound
mistakes leading to long chases acorss the serengeti

Then don't use pliers!

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

WHY don't use plier?
lemme tell u-i had a spider monkey grab my finger and i got my finger
back caws the sm got bored with my whineing

Quoted message said:

WHY don't use plier?
lemme tell u-i had a spider monkey grab my finger and i got my finger
back caws the sm got bored with my whineing

me too. Kuala Lumpur, 1994.

--
Brides gotta run, planes gotta stray, cable news networks got bills to
pay pay pay

WHY don't use plier?
we were playing a game. whose faster? well not only was he faster but
had the strength of an ox.
i think of him when i need to...force the tranmission shaft into the
bearing.

Quoted message said:

WHY don't use plier?
we were playing a game. whose faster? well not only was he faster but
had the strength of an ox.
i think of him when i need to...force the tranmission shaft into the
bearing.

When you use pliers about 4 or 5 times (especially when gritty), the pins
erode the side plates to the point where any slack in the chain causes them
to self-disengage. Much more likely while mountain biking, of course.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

maybe. pliers, such as the biketoolsect.com did you mean? pliers are
useful-when you need them its use will prolong life for sure.
but use is limited to new links where new clearances can be a real
expletive deleted removal for cleaning
or dirt clogged links-
butbutbut the dirt clogged link shudn't be squozen-shud be dowsed with
a bit of thinner or a squirt of deodorized kerosene-wal sells a
slipprier form of wd-zero
then squozen. usually-now i stay on road-that's enough to allow hand
removal below small monkey strength
the connex-go look at one-has the removal line in a curve so as when
squeezing the adjacent tumblers together, the connex guide pins roll
around in a "naturally" reactive motion and pop free!

Quoted message said:

maybe. pliers, such as the biketoolsect.com did you mean? pliers are
useful-when you need them its use will prolong life for sure.
but use is limited to new links where new clearances can be a real
expletive deleted removal for cleaning
or dirt clogged links-
butbutbut the dirt clogged link shudn't be squozen-shud be dowsed with
a bit of thinner or a squirt of deodorized kerosene-wal sells a
slipprier form of wd-zero
then squozen. usually-now i stay on road-that's enough to allow hand
removal below small monkey strength

Yep, I agree with all that, especially the cleaning part. You shouldn't
need to use pliers except in extenuating circumstances.

Quoted message said:

the connex-go look at one
-has the removal line in a curve so as when
squeezing the adjacent tumblers together, the connex guide pins roll
around in a "naturally" reactive motion and pop free!

I think the Connex curve helps a lot because even if worn, if the chain goes
slack, there needs to be some sort of jiggling motion that seems unlikely,
with the nature of a chain being more like a rope than an pole. I've never
had my Connex link pop off, but it's done all its duty on a road bike.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training