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which wheels for IMFL?

Started by Susan In La · · Last activity · 9 posts · 893 views

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Triathlon
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4 June 2004
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11 June 2004
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Susan In La
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  1. Thinking ahead here........which bike/wheelset would you take to IMFL if
    this were to be your first and possibly only IM:

    1. New ti road bike, LS Tuscany, Mavic Cosmos *clincher*
    wheels (came with bike but seem very nice)
    2. Old ti tri bike, LS Tachyon (650, aerobars), Zipp full-
    disk rear and deep-dish front with *tubular* tires
    3. #2 bike with boring rather heavy factory-default wheels
    with *clincher* tires

    Here's the thing: I want to take the tri bike with racing
    wheels because.....well, it's a tri bike w/ racing
    wheels......I expect IMFL to be flat and not ridiculously
    windy and over 100 miles the aero wheelset might actually
    make a difference in my time. BUT I have never changed
    tubular (or disk/deep-dish) tires on my own....I've never
    flatted in a race [knocking on wood] and don't even carry
    the repair stuff (or know what that would be), and I would
    hate to ruin a whole IM because of a flat tire, which seems
    not too terribly unlikely to occur in a 112-mile bike leg. I
    don't like option
    #3 because a 650 bike with heavy wheels seems a little
    #pointless, except for
    training.

    I think I am talking myself into option #1, bringing the
    road bike, as I type this........clincher tires, no extended
    valves to deal with, easy to change flats/carry repair kit,
    comfier ride for the long bike leg. I love my tri bike but
    can't afford yet another wheelset for it.

    Any thoughts?

    Susan in LA (Don't ask me why I thought I needed sewups on
    my racing wheels when I bought them 10 years ago....I have
    no idea....)

  2. "Susan in LA" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]... <<SNIP>>I
    expect IMFL to be

    Quoted message said:

    flat and not ridiculously windy and over 100 miles the
    aero wheelset might actually make a difference in my time.
    BUT I have never changed tubular


    (or

    Quoted message said:

    disk/deep-dish) tires on my own....<<SNIP>>

    That is a safe bet. Excpect some amount of wind/breeze, but
    not anything scarey.

    If the prospect of changing the tubular will be a
    distraction, forget it. However, if you are up to it, get
    some instruction at your LBS.

    Have you ever changed a a clincher and a) had the sidewall
    ripped out of the [ruined] tire b) double-flatted because
    you didn't locate the barb/thorn/splinter, glass that was
    inside the tire? A tubular spare offers an advantage in
    those particular scenarios.

    The downside of of a tubular spare is on a technical course
    - - which PCB is NOT. It takes several hours for your glue
    to set right, so you can't go tearing around corners. Again,
    PCB is not that sort of course.

    OTOH, clinchers offer the ability to carry three or more
    tubes & CO2 cartridges.

    I was faced with the same choice and went with tubulars.
    One thing that factored in for me is that I am around 200
    pounds and REALLY like high pressure. This may not be a
    factor for you.

    rsquared

  3. "rsquared" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Susan in LA" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]... <<SNIP>>I
    expect IMFL to be

    Quoted message said:

    flat and not ridiculously windy and over 100 miles the
    aero wheelset


    might

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    actually make a difference in my time. BUT I have never
    changed tubular


    (or

    Quoted message said:

    disk/deep-dish) tires on my own....<<SNIP>>

    That is a safe bet. Excpect some amount of wind/breeze,
    but not anything scarey.

    If the prospect of changing the tubular will be a
    distraction, forget it. However, if you are up to it, get
    some instruction at your LBS.

    Have you ever changed a a clincher and a) had the sidewall
    ripped out of


    the

    Quoted message said:

    [ruined] tire b) double-flatted because you didn't locate
    the barb/thorn/splinter, glass that was inside the tire? A
    tubular spare


    offers

    Quoted message said:

    an advantage in those particular scenarios.

    The downside of of a tubular spare is on a technical
    course - - which PCB


    is

    Quoted message said:

    NOT. It takes several hours for your glue to set right, so
    you can't go tearing around corners. Again, PCB is not
    that sort of course.

    OTOH, clinchers offer the ability to carry three or more
    tubes & CO2 cartridges.

    I was faced with the same choice and went with tubulars.
    One thing that factored in for me is that I am around 200
    pounds and REALLY like high pressure. This may not be a
    factor for you.

    Fortunately it is not a factor. Yet. Although I *have* been
    consuming a lot of guacamole lately, in anticipation of all
    that IM training.

    You make an excellent point about the unique problems
    inherent with changing clinchers. But what about changing a
    tire on a disk or deep-dish (Zipp) wheel? Seems like it
    would be hard to get that long valve out and back in again.
    Guess I just need to get myself down to the bike shop for
    Tire-Changing 101. Or is this 102? Either way, my manicure
    is doomed. :-)

    Susan in (of course) LA

  4. "Susan in LA" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    But what about changing a tire on a disk or deep-dish
    (Zipp) wheel? Seems like it would be hard to get that long
    valve out and back in again. Guess I just need to get
    myself down to the bike shop for Tire-Changing 101. Or is
    this 102? Either way, my manicure is doomed. :-)

    Susan in (of course) LA

    I have no experience with deep-dish/long valves, but I do
    use a tubular-tire disk (ZIPP-950); it's a very old threaded
    model. No issues there, other than needing a CO2
    cartridge/valve adapter that fits the disk/valve opening.

    Anyway... some checks that work for me:

    * There is a double-sided tape product that is making the
    rounds. It's nice and neat when you have a very neat
    controlled place to make the change. I wouldn't want to
    have to be so precise (and hurried) on a road change - -
    especially a race. I recommend good ol' glue for the
    repair kit.

    * Be stingy with the glue, in a small spot, opposite the
    valve hole. That way, you have a predetermined "easy"
    place to start prying off the tire. If it comes down to
    using the qr-skewer as a pry bar, that would be the place
    to start. Otherwise, don't skimp on the glue.

    * Last, don't get glue on the valve threads. : O

    And, yes... kiss the manicure goodbye : )

    rsquared

  5. "Susan in LA" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "rsquared" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Susan in LA" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...


    You make an excellent point about the unique problems
    inherent with


    changing

    Quoted message said:

    clinchers. But what about changing a tire on a disk or deep-
    dish (Zipp) wheel? Seems like it would be hard to get that
    long valve out and back in again. Guess I just need to get
    myself down to the bike shop for Tire-Changing 101. Or is
    this 102? Either way, my manicure is doomed. :-)

    Susan in (of course) LA

    Sorry - - no experience with deep dish/long valve
    stems configs.

    A couple of things to consider if you decide to go in for
    a lesson...

    * There is a new "double-sided" tape that folks are using. I
    like it, and use it. However, I would not consider messing
    with it for a "road fix". For me it takes too much
    precision and patience to apply, unless you have a nice
    tidy workspace. I would stick with glue.

    * Find a narrow point (opposite the valve is good) where
    you skimp on the glue application. That way, if you need
    the quick-release skewer to help pry off a stubborn
    tire, you have a logical starting point for ramming the
    skewer through.

    rsquared

  6. "Witheld" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Susan in LA" <[email hidden]> wrote in message


    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    But what about changing a tire on a disk or deep-dish
    (Zipp) wheel? Seems like it would be hard to get that
    long valve out and back


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    again. Guess I just need to get myself down to the bike
    shop for Tire-Changing 101. Or is this 102? Either way,
    my manicure is doomed.


    :-)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Susan in (of course) LA

    I have no experience with deep-dish/long valves, but I do
    use a tubular-tire disk (ZIPP-950); it's a very old
    threaded model. No issues there, other than needing a CO2
    cartridge/valve adapter that fits the disk/valve opening.

    Anyway... some checks that work for me:

    * There is a double-sided tape product that is making the
    rounds. It's nice and neat when you have a very neat
    controlled place to make the change. I wouldn't want to
    have to be so precise (and hurried) on a road change - -
    especially a race. I recommend good ol' glue for the
    repair kit.

    * Be stingy with the glue, in a small spot, opposite the
    valve hole. That way, you have a predetermined "easy"
    place to start prying off the tire. If it comes down to
    using the qr-skewer as a pry bar, that would be the
    place to start. Otherwise, don't skimp on the glue.

    * Last, don't get glue on the valve threads. : O

    And, yes... kiss the manicure goodbye : )

    rsquared

    What's a qr-skewer? Is it really hard to pull off the old
    tire?

  7. Susan,

    The deep dish or long stem do not create any problem. You
    should however have a long stem spare prepared and ready to
    install. Don't think you can get the adapters off at road
    side and back on again without leak problems. Install the
    adapter on the spare before you hit the road. I pre-glue my
    spares before each race. If done the evening prior to race
    it will stick fairly well but I would brake prior to
    entering any fast corner and never while in the turn if the
    tire is changed roadside. On spares that have sufficient
    glue I wipe the glue with a glue thinner to re-activate it.

    Ken @ Kauai

    "rsquared" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Susan in LA" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "rsquared" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Susan in LA" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...


    You make an excellent point about the unique problems
    inherent with


    changing

    Quoted message said:

    clinchers. But what about changing a tire on a disk or
    deep-dish (Zipp) wheel? Seems like it would be hard to
    get that long valve out and back


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    again. Guess I just need to get myself down to the bike
    shop for Tire-Changing 101. Or is this 102? Either way,
    my manicure is doomed.


    :-)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Susan in (of course) LA

    Sorry - - no experience with deep dish/long valve stems
    configs.

    A couple of things to consider if you decide to go in for
    a lesson...

    * There is a new "double-sided" tape that folks are using.
    I like it, and use it. However, I would not consider
    messing with it for a "road fix". For me it takes too
    much precision and patience to apply, unless you have


    a

    Quoted message said:

    nice tidy workspace. I would stick with glue.

    * Find a narrow point (opposite the valve is good) where
    you skimp on the glue application. That way, if you need
    the quick-release skewer to help pry off a stubborn
    tire, you have a logical starting point for ramming the
    skewer through.

    rsquared

  8. "Susan in LA" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:oU_xc.6923<<SNIP>>

    Quoted message said:


    What's a qr-skewer? Is it really hard to pull off the
    old tire?

    Sorry, "quick-release" skewer. The thing you run through the
    hub to clamp your wheels into the dropouts. It's an old
    trick to use that as a lever, when needed, rather than
    carrying extra tools.

    Yes. It can be hard to remove. There are several
    factors... age of the glue, temperature, amount of glue
    applied, etc. If your bare hands cannot do it, that is
    what the skewer is for.

    Once you get a couple of handwidths of tire free, it will
    tear right off. Don't be gentle; the tire is history.

    rsquared

  9. Thank you all! Now everyone please bring your old sewups
    over so I can practice.

    Susan

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