CandT said:Hi there all,
I posted a message a while back out my stock rear hub having large spacing between the 'teeth' of
the freewheel, meaning the crank can move up to an inch before the pawls engage. I'm confused as to
what I could/couldnt replace from this 'Formula Inc' hub, so have decided to have a go at my first
wheel build.
It's not necessarily a defect, by the way. All pawl-based freewheels have a certain amount of this
play, which depends mainly on the amount of teeth in the shell that the pawls ratchet against. An
inch (25 mm) of travel in the end of a crank, say 170 mm cause that's pretty much the standard, is a
travel of 8-9 degrees, and then it depends a lot on what gear you're in. If you're doing this while
in smallest gear, which can be near 1:1, it would be pretty much equal to about 24 teeth. If you're
doing it in highest gear, it's much less. What you want to do is when you have the wheel out, rotate
the cluster by hand and feel how it freewheels and engages. If it's grainy instead of smooth, it
definitely needs replacement (of the freewheel body), and same if the clicks aren't evenly spaced
around the entire turn.
Quoted message said:Now - I've just looked up the rims on WTB's site, and I can see its 32 holes.
wtb.comdualduty rim.htmlOpen ↗
so OK - I need the 32h deore hub.
Good idea to count the spokes in your wheel before ordering, as well. Who knows, the rims may have
existed in 28 or 36 holes previously, or even as an OEM option, and counting's not that hard. YOu
can just count one group (trailing on one side, frex) of spokes and multiply by four. Also, you need
to know what size your rim is -- 622 mm road or 559 mm MTB being the most likely sizes (since you
mention Deore, presumably 559). You'll also need to know how far the spoke nipple will sit beneath
the tire bead (the 622 or 559 mm are diameters of the tire bead), and a lot of info about the hub.
You then feed the lot into a spokecalculator program and it will do a lot of trig for you and come
up with the answer. Or you can do the trig yourself.
Quoted message said:Now the questions are - what spoke sizes will I need? Do they come in defferent lengths? Also - is
it likely I'd need a new cassette too? Or would the Formula
Spokes pretty much come in lengths from those needed for 6 inch diameter wheels for children
strollers up to at least the size needed for 630 mm diameter wheels in multiples of 1 mm.
Quoted message said:hub's cassette fit the deore hub...
Count how many rear speeds you have and which brand shifter. This will give you a fairly clear idea
of what kind of casette you have, and thus what kind of freehub body you need. Most likely Shimano 7
or Shimano 8/9. You should also measure the space between the rear dropouts (inner face to inner
face), and you should come up with 135, if you've got an MTB.
Quoted message said:I also have a limited choice of spokes... Either
ACI Spokes 2mm-1.7mm (what does that mean?)
Either single or double butted (double butted would normally be written
2./1.7/2.0 - head/middle/nipple diameters in mm), where butted means that the spoke is thicker at
the ends than in the middle. Single butted has a thicker end at the head, double at both ends, and
triple butted has a thicker end at both ends, but different sizes.
Quoted message said:or DT Swiss Competition Stainless PG
Straight gauge good quality stainless steel spokes, IIRC.
Quoted message said:Now these are 5GBP and 10GBP respectively, but I'd assume this is for 32/36 spokes?! Not each!!?
For some multiple, certainly, but I'd go for somewhere in the region of 10 spokes at that price,
given other prices in England. If you're mailordering, BTW, get some spares, just in case a
spoke breaks. You don't want to find out nobody in your town can supply a single replacement
spoke when one does.
Jasper
