Wheel Question

I don't see how you can get a hard answer on this. As you said there are many variables:
- riding conditions
- rim (material, depth, thickness of brake track etc)
- spokes (material, type)
- spoke count
- spoke pattern(s)
- hub (bearings, flanges, freewheel etc)
- how it is assembled

EVERY wheel (not just every style or every model but EVERY SINGLE WHEEL) varies with respect to these factors, so there is no way you can generalise.

Most of them will last at least one season (but then how do you define a "season"???) but some makes (depending on model and year of building etc) start to come apart after that.

Yes. Much too difficult to give an exact estimate. Too many factors. Riding style, weight, type of use, type of roads, etc. some people are generally easier on their gear like myself.

i'd use total mileage if it were possible to measure this. i've had a set of Mavics last over 10,000kms. another set of Ambrosio last about 8,000kms. then a set of Araya less than 3,000. Currently have a few sets on the go. Fulcrums, Shimanos and Alex. But still too early to tell as each of the last 3 sets have less than 1000kms.

BUT.....if i were to give a round about ballpark on a distance......minimum 3,000kms. The Mavics I had for so long had the brake surface worn down too much. I figured it was close to dangerous and I didn't want to take any chances. They're still in the garage. Specialized hubs STILL smooth smooth smooth. And they were NEVER serviced.

Wheels can last 20 years or three months.

If a wheel:

-doesn't have heavily worn brake surfaces
-remains true(ish)
-doesn't break spokes
-has smooth hub bearings
-has no visible cracks
-and is not grossly deformed

then I will keep using it.

I would consider a wheel that lasts less than 10000-20000 km either to have a major quality problem, to have been poorly maintained, or to have been inappropriately selected for a given kind of riding. (I'm not talking about fragile race-only wheels, although race wheels don't need to lack durability).

Oh man, I ride about 10,000km in a single year...does that mean my wheels will only last a year or two? I was hoping they'd last at least 5...

genedan said:

Oh man, I ride about 10,000km in a single year...does that mean my wheels will only last a year or two? I was hoping they'd last at least 5...

With the proper wheel selection and reasonable care in riding, don't see why 30K miles is out of the question at all. My current wheels, Velomax/Easton Circuits, have 26K miles now with no truing ever and are still going strong.

Some rims have a brake surface wear indicator which will tell you when they're shot.

It's easy (and I think kind of fun) to service hubs, especially those with cup-and-cone bearings. Grease them well, and replace bearings/cones/axles when/if required.

Minor truing, when necessary, doesn't require any great skill, or even a truing stand.

One of my road bikes is 46 years old and the other is 26 years old. Both have the original wheels and hubs on them.

So the consensus appears to be that, rather than trying to come up with a hard and fast rule on how long a component will last, it is better to do regular checks and basic maintenance so that you know when a part is worn out (be it a rim, hub, bearing, cassette etc).

hey, thanks to all who replied.

here's another spin to the question: A wheel has let's say 10k miles on it. You've inspected the wheel and found no faults with it. How much lesser would you pay?

Aerizon said:

Hey guys,

Anyone know how many miles you can put on a generic pair of wheels before you're supposed to change it? Lots of variables in question, but I'm just looking for a ballpark figure here. If anyone can point me in the right direction that'll be awesome. 🙂

2 things 'wear' on a wheel. The hub and the rim. Keep the hub well serviced, lubed, adjusted and it will last for years. Check the rim sidewall for con cave-ness, where the brake wears it. The only other time to change the rim is if you wack it, dent it, change the spoke tension thru damage=breaking spokes..get a wheelbuilder to replace the rim.

I think you should replace wheels when the cost of maintaining them becomes higher than the cost of a new set, a very real possibility when dealing with low end stuff. If too many things need doing, it may be more economical to get a new wheel. However, you have to add the cost of truing the new wheel because machine-built wheels can sometimes get out of whack a little quickly and require a true, after which they seem to stay true better.

You should absolutely replace a rim when there are cracks around the spoke holes or the brake surface is significantly worn down.

If spokes start breaking often, you can conclude they're all going to go because they're nearing the end of their fatigue life, unless the wheel was unevenly tensioned. Respoking is too pricey for most low end stuff. I redid a 3sp c/b wheel once, but I can spoke a wheel myself and UCP spokes were still available individually from Niagara for $0.14 apiece.

Multi-speed freewheel wheels are likely to need a cone and axle job every now and then especially with a strong or heavy rider, 7 or more sprockets, or rough use. The design was created for 4-speed freewheels and when they went to 7 the axles started fatiguing much more quickly. Those are worth fixing if you can do the work yourself; otherwise it may be more economical to get another $50 wheel. Get a shop to pull off the old freewheel and just screw it on hand-tight on the new wheel because pedaling will tighten it, and grease the threads preferably with antiseize. I feel this particular fault can depend a great deal on how the wheel was put together and there's no hard rule for how much breakage to expect.

Peter@vecchios said:

2 things 'wear' on a wheel. The hub and the rim.

I'd say the spoke elbows fatigue, and in the case of multispeed freewheels, the axle fatigues.

Aerizon said:

hey, thanks to all who replied.

here's another spin to the question: A wheel has let's say 10k miles on it. You've inspected the wheel and found no faults with it. How much lesser would you pay?

It's a crapshoot. It could be that it started popping a spoke on every other ride, so the owner fixed it so it could be sold.

It could be that the bearings are bad, or just starting to go bad but are not bad enough to feel. Maybe there was a pit on the cone when the owner took it down for service.

Both of those things can be fixed if you know how but would cost plenty if you don't.

The freehub could be bad. Do you know how to tell a bad freehub?

The brake surface could be worn further than the owner wants.

garage sale GT said:

It's a crapshoot. It could be that it started popping a spoke on every other ride, so the owner fixed it so it could be sold.

It could be that the bearings are bad, or just starting to go bad but are not bad enough to feel. Maybe there was a pit on the cone when the owner took it down for service.

Both of those things can be fixed if you know how but would cost plenty if you don't.

The freehub could be bad. Do you know how to tell a bad freehub?

The brake surface could be worn further than the owner wants.

Aerizon has asked us to assume that we have checked the wheels and they don't have any faults.

In this case, the price negotiation begins around the quality, general cleanliness, and original value of the parts used to build them. If we are talking hand built wheels with non-descript, but functioning, hubs and low profile rims with stainless spokes built properly, then you're starting at about AU$150 for a well used set.
If you go up to high quality parts (top range rims, Record/Dura-Ace/DT240 hubs, and a well done hand build) you're looking at AU$700 for a lightly used set.

Factory wheels are another area altogether (one which largely is a slave to fashion, not necessarily technical quality). These will vary widely.

Again there are many variables.

I've never bought a used wheel and I never will unless I can inspect it in person. I'd much rather build my own or buy new from someone I trust.

tafi said:

Aerizon has asked us to assume that we have checked the wheels and they don't have any faults.

OMG, you're right, and it's certainly a safe assumption to make when speaking of a used wheelset.

He is not asking us to assume it is safe out of hand. He is asking us to provide other pointers (ie: apart from safety - which has already been discussed above) to the value of the wheels. Read it again if you're not sure. I'm all for giving pertinent advice but what you listed doesn't answer the question you quoted.

Aerizon said:

hey, thanks to all who replied.

here's another spin to the question: A wheel has let's say 10k miles on it. You've inspected the wheel and found no faults with it. How much lesser would you pay?

How do you know how many miles the wheel has on it?

Although I have bought two good sets of second-hand wheels in the past, in general, I think that wheels are items for which you need to know all details of the history - meaning that it's best to buy new.

On the issue of mileage, you'll probably have to trust the guy... a ridiculous notion, i know 😄

Alternatively, look at it from another angle. You're the seller now and you have complete knowledge of the wheel's history. You know that nothing is wrong with the wheel; you've done basic maintenance, no crashes or stuff like that. Of course you want to sell it at the highest possible price, but at the same time you're a reasonable guy, you'll take whatever you feel it's worth.

So, what I'm really looking for is the rate at which a wheel's value depreciates with mileage.

Sorry for any confusion and I really appreciate all the replies.