Pop down to Halfords and they will tell you the difference between a standard and mountain bike wheel, best not to ask a female assistant ;O) (no offence ladies).
How does a 26" Alesa XPlorer commuter rim differ from a 26" Alesa XPlorer MTB rim, and how should my wife work out if she has the right one?
And how would Halfords staff define the difference, given that they can't tell the difference between a pile of welded gas-pipe and a bicycle?[1] Specifically, how would they identify at a glance the difference between a 26" touring wheel and a 26" MTB wheel? And would they correctly identify the 26" Sun Rhyno wheels on my triplet as not being mountian bike wheels? This would require advanced skills (including: counting the spokes).
You might have a point there: I'll try and remove one on each side. When the new ones were put in, there was about 1/2 -3/4s of a ball diameter spare room. I thought this about right, however, this is a new thing for me!
That's about right.
-- [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/ Copyright (c) Simon Brooke; All rights reserved. Permission is granted to transfer this message via UUCP or NNTP and to store it for the purpose of archiving or further transfer. Permission is explicitly denied to use this message as part of a 'Web Forum', or to transfer it by HTTP.
"Simon Brooke" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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in message <[email hidden]>, half_pint
(') said:
"Dave Kahn" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 17:15:50 -0000, "half_pint" <[email hidden]> wrote:
>Fortunately I hve not been able to buckle the wheels on my mountaiin >bike they are far more robust than a 'standard wheel' which are very >easilly damaged.
What is a standard wheel and how easily damaged do you think they are?
I am pretty sure you know the difference between a standard wheel and a mountain bike wheel.
Speaking as someone who has built wheels both for road bikes and for mountain bikes, I don't know of any difference, apart from the fact that mountain bikes mostly (but not always) use 26 inch rims and road bikes mostly (but not always) use 700c rims.
Bigger tyres do, of course, help protect the rims from damage.
Well it has always been obvious to mr that mountain bike wheels are smaller in diameter and thicker in the rim.
"Clive George" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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"half_pint" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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"Clive George" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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"half_pint" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
> I am pretty sure you know the difference between a standard wheel
and
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a
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> mountain bike wheel.
Hey - I don't know the difference, and I've built a few in my time.
Hub -
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check. Spokes - check. Rim - check. What's the difference then?
Pop down to Halfords and they will tell you the difference between a standard and mountain bike wheel, best not to ask a female assistant ;O) (no offence ladies).
But who should I ask if I want an answer from somebody who actually knows about bikes?
You would be better off asking a qualified engineer, like myself.
"half_pint" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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> > I am pretty sure you know the difference between a standard > > wheel and a mountain bike wheel. > > Hey - I don't know the difference, and I've built a few in my time. > Hub - check. Spokes - check. Rim - check. What's the difference
then?
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Pop down to Halfords and they will tell you the difference between a standard and mountain bike wheel, best not to ask a female assistant
;O)
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(no offence ladies).
But who should I ask if I want an answer from somebody who actually
knows
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about bikes?
You would be better off asking a qualified engineer, like myself.
Which institute?
I did ask you - it's quoted up there.
FWIW my rims are the same thickness as many MTB rims.
My advice to you is to stop digging and admit that your definition of 'standard' wasn't terribly helpful.
"Dave Kahn" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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"half_pint" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...
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"Dave Kahn" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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Depends how bad the buckle is. If you could pull the buckle back to the centre you probably could have got the wheel pretty close to true.
And probably pull the rest of the wheeel out of true, i think you would probably need to remove the rim, and hammer/bend it flat and round
first.
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You appear to be posting your advice from a position of deep ignorance. I suggest you check Sheldon's pages on wheel truing. If you really want to understand wheels you might try reading The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt.
I somehow doubt that, even though he looks like a nit of a "nutter" from his photograph, he describes wheel building as an art which needs to be mastered. It is clear from the length of his article on wheel building that it is an art which needs to be mastered, (a bit like pot throwing perhaps), and this is from the starting point of an undamaged rim. Trying to 'true' a buckled wheel is probably nigh on impossible. Apart from anything else you will never get all the spokes to the same tension. Note he doesnot even attempt to describe how to remove a buckle from a wheel. Removing the rim completely and hammering it straight is probably the only option.
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What is a standard wheel and how easily damaged do you think they are?
"half_pint" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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I somehow doubt that, even though he looks like a nit of a "nutter" from his photograph, he describes wheel building as an art which needs to be mastered. It is clear from the length of his article on wheel building that it is an art which needs to be mastered, (a bit like pot throwing perhaps), and this is from the starting point of an undamaged rim. Trying to 'true' a buckled wheel is probably nigh on impossible. Apart from anything else you will never get all the spokes to the same tension. Note he doesnot even attempt to describe how to remove a buckle from a wheel. Removing the rim completely and hammering it straight is probably the only option.
Note the giveaway here : 'probably'. Ie doesn't actually know.
Some of us here have experience in truing buckled wheels. We know that for example getting all the spokes to the same sension will not happen with an intrinsically bent rim, but this doesn't preclude the building of a true wheel.
"Clive George" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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"half_pint" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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I somehow doubt that, even though he looks like a nit of a "nutter" from his photograph, he describes wheel building as an art which needs to be mastered. It is clear from the length of his article on wheel building that it is an art which needs to be mastered, (a bit like pot throwing perhaps), and this is from the starting point of an undamaged rim. Trying to 'true' a buckled wheel is probably nigh on impossible. Apart from anything else you will never get all the spokes to the same tension. Note he doesnot even attempt to describe how to remove a buckle from a wheel. Removing the rim completely and hammering it straight is probably the only option.
Note the giveaway here : 'probably'. Ie doesn't actually know.
Some of us here have experience in truing buckled wheels. We know that for example getting all the spokes to the same sension will not happen with an intrinsically bent rim, but this doesn't preclude the building of a true wheel.
It may be 'true' but it may also be prone to collapsing when you ride over a small bump due to 'unatural' stresses in the spokes.
"half_pint" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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"Clive George" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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"half_pint" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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I somehow doubt that, even though he looks like a nit of a "nutter" from his photograph, he describes wheel building as an art which needs to be mastered. It is clear from the length of his article on wheel building that it is an art which needs to be mastered, (a bit like pot throwing perhaps), and this is from the starting point of an undamaged rim. Trying to 'true' a buckled wheel is probably nigh on impossible. Apart from anything else you will never get all the spokes to the same tension. Note he doesnot even attempt to describe how to remove a buckle from a wheel. Removing the rim completely and hammering it straight is probably the only option.
Note the giveaway here : 'probably'. Ie doesn't actually know.
Some of us here have experience in truing buckled wheels. We know that
for
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example getting all the spokes to the same sension will not happen with
an
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intrinsically bent rim, but this doesn't preclude the building of a true wheel.
It may be 'true' but it may also be prone to collapsing when you ride over a small bump due to 'unatural' stresses in the spokes.
Experience says otherwise - experience you plainly haven't got. Yes, an uneven wheel isn't as strong. That isn't the same as not strong enough.
"half_pint" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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"Clive George" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Some of us here have experience in truing buckled wheels. We know that
for
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example getting all the spokes to the same sension will not happen with
an
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intrinsically bent rim, but this doesn't preclude the building of a true wheel.
It may be 'true' but it may also be prone to collapsing when you ride over a small bump due to 'unatural' stresses in the spokes.
No it won't. This because if a rim was not bent equal spoke tension would make it both concentric and central it to the hub. If a rim is bent it doesn't need spoke tension to pull it in the direction of the bend because it's already there using forces of its' own therefore it doesn't need help from spokes on that side to balance those on the other side. In short the spokes are balancing forces which will be those of the other spokes in a true rim and those of the (other spokes + rim) if the rim is buckled. Think see-saw: A perfectly balanced see-saw will stay level with an 80kg person at each end. If the see-saw is inherently out of balance by 10kg at one end then it will only need a 70kg person at that end to counterbalance an 80kg person at t'other.
