Chesney Christ said:I'm considering getting a lovely new set of wheels from sdeals.com, and they provide a handy
feature on their site that lets you customize them (navigate to the "wheels" section on
www.sdeals.com). I'd like them to be as light as possible, but I mainly want a set of wheels that
will stay true and last, rather than shaving off milligrams here and there to save weight - for
that reason I think I'll go for 36 spokes rather than 32 (and I don't mind spending a few extra
quid). I've also already decided I'm going to get Mavic CXP33 rims and a Shimano 105 hub.
SDeals allow ordering odd wheels so you could get 36 spoke rear, 32 front. Rear is where you need
all the strength and reliability you can reasonably get. Four fewer spokes at the front makes the
wheel a tiny bit lighter and more aerodynamic yet will be still be highly reliable for just about
everyone. Only downside: a spare rim won't do for both wheels.
Quoted message said:But it seems there are a number of other variables 🙂 Sdeals provide six different choices of
spoke for the rear wheel (four for the front) and about ten different choices of nipple. Can
anyone suggest what the differences are between them are, and why I might chose a specific
manufacturer/type ?
Manufacturer: It's hard to find out if ACI spokes are any less reliable than Sapim (or DT). There
only seems to be anacdotal evidence which is not conclusive in this case. My guess is that
they're ok.
Guage is important. Butted/double butted means the end(s) are thicker than the middle. A thinner
middle section makes the spoke more elastic to improve fatigue resistance as well as saving weight -
so avoid plain guage. Sapim "Strong" 13/14 spokes are even thicker at the hub end (where spokes
usually break) and are supposed to be more fatigue resistant that
14/16 "Race" - but I have broken one (or was it two?). I think they also make wheel building/truing
easier as they don't wind up so easily - which is particular useful on rear drive side with the
extra high tension there. They are considerably heavier than Race but this doesn't matter too
much if they're used for rear drive side only. I suppose: don't bother with them if you're
average weight or under and not riding mostly on the roughest roads. I'm now using DT Alpine III
for rear ds which are even stronger but lighter. It's a shame they don't offer Sapim Laser or DT
Revolution which are both more fatigue resistant and lighter than Sapim Race. I suppose you could
ask them to be ordered especially or send them some. Or alternatively use Parker International or
another builder. All are stainless steel ("SS"😉.
Nipples: Aluminium ones are lighter than brass but round off more easily. Since I've rounded off too
many brass nipples in my time, I would never use al unless I needed the very lightest wheels. I
can't remember the number of grams now but the total difference is very small.
14i: Less likely to round with a suitable spoke key. Also, I reckon their threaded section is
slightly longer than the 12's have so they should be slightly more reliable altogether.
Plus, if they ever do get rounded, the top outer section can be filed to create new flats
(so they can be undone and replaced with a spoke key). Rear drive side is where you need
these benefits most (if at all). Otherwise 12mm brass should be fine and is what most
builders use all round.
Quoted message said:I'm also guessing that x3 front/x3 x2 rear is probably the most ideal cross pattern to use.
x3 all round is generally regarded as the reliable norm - but I went for
x3/x2 rear. Spokes *might* be less likely to unwind with x3.
Reminder: SDeals prices exclude VAT.
~PB
