Wheel building questions

I don't think the rust is a big deal. It will just make adjusting the rim a little difficult because
the nipple will tend to bind against the rust and be a bit notchy. If you remove the rust, that
should be quite adequate. I assume this is a bit of a clunker bike, and if that's the case, with an
otherwise fine rim, I wouldn't worry about that rust at all. Lube the nipples with some heavy oil
while building, just a tad, not too much.

I almost always prefer 3x for any wheel. I would advise the same here. You certainly can't do
radial. 3x builds a nice durable wheel and I've had plenty of great wheels using this pattern.

Cheers,

Scott..
--
Scott Anderson

"Dan Lissit" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi Everyone,

I'm converting an 80's road bike (Trek 460) to fixed gear. Since the original rear hub is a
Helicomatic (= can't screw on a cog) I am rebuilding it with a Suzue standard flip-flop. This will
be my first try at building a wheel. The original rim is a Matrix Strada, black anodyzed. I have
two questions: 1) the eyelets on the spoke holes are rusted on the exterior, although otherwise
the rim is in good shape. Will it be alright if I just remove the rust, or am I better off
replacing the rim? 2) What is the preferred lacing pattern, if any, for a fixed gear wheel?

Thanks for your help. Dan

Dan Lissit said:

Hi Everyone,

This will be my first
try at building a wheel.

Have you read Sheldon Brown's procedure? sheldonbrown.comwheelbuild.htmlOpen ↗

[email hidden] (Dan Lissit) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

1) the eyelets on the spoke holes are rusted on the exterior, although otherwise the rim is in
good shape. Will it be alright if I just remove the rust, or am I better off replacing the rim?

Unless the eyelets have structurally failed, you don't even need to remove the rust. Just build the
wheel (lube nipple-eyelet interface as usual).

Quoted message said:

2) What is the preferred lacing pattern, if any, for a fixed gear wheel?

Same as any wheel that transmits torque through the hub: crossed. Usually 3x or 4x.

"Dan Lissit" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi Everyone,

I'm converting an 80's road bike (Trek 460) to fixed gear. Since the original rear hub is a
Helicomatic (= can't screw on a cog) I am rebuilding it with a Suzue standard flip-flop. This will
be my first try at building a wheel. The original rim is a Matrix Strada, black anodyzed. I have
two questions: 1) the eyelets on the spoke holes are rusted on the exterior, although otherwise
the rim is in good shape. Will it be alright if I just remove the rust, or am I better off
replacing the rim? 2) What is the preferred lacing pattern, if any, for a fixed gear wheel?

The rust doesn't hurt anything but the look. If you wire brush them and smear oil as you lubricate
the nipples it wil be OK. Detailing them with a metallic silver paint pen is a possibility if your
time is taken out of the discussion. Depending on your year, the red label Rigida 13-19 is lacking
the lip that got added to the blue label 13-20 rim. This is a consideration if you intend to use
folding (Kevlar bead) tires.

--
Andrew Muzi yellowjersey.orgyellowjersey.orgOpen ↗ Open every day since 1 April 1971

Jay Hill <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Dan Lissit said:

Hi Everyone,

This will be my first
try at building a wheel.

Have you read Sheldon Brown's procedure? sheldonbrown.comwheelbuild.htmlOpen ↗

Yes, it's because of his explanation that I'm feeling confident to give it a try. He mentioned
reversing the direction out from the flange on a FW, but I wasn't sure if there were any other
particular tricks specific to FW that I should know.

To Scott-- yes, I suppose this is going to be a beater, but it still hurt to hear it: I was
damn proud of that bike when I got it back in high school! Thanks, though, for the reassurance
on the rims. Dan

A Muzi said:

Depending on your year, the red label Rigida 13-19 is lacking the lip that got added to the blue
label 13-20 rim. This is a consideration if you intend to use folding (Kevlar bead) tires.

Do you mean the hook for the bead? I have a couple of red label Rigida 13-19s (one has an oval
label, the other is a rectangle) that I have been using with Kevlar bead tires. Now you've got me
worried! :->

Art Harris