Wheel build problem #2: Rim not round

sorry about being inexperined :o , but still:
I would take it to LBS (check that all the spokes are same tention)

--
thejdw

dunawan said:

why are koxx one unicycles so costly???

forrestunifreak said:

They are expensive because they use only the finest soft drink cans.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

don't follow Jesus, follow me!<<

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thejdw said:

sorry about being inexperined :o , but still:
I would take it to LBS (check that all the spokes are same tention)

I checked. They are.

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Evan Byrne
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Evan Byrne said:

I checked. They are.

I would recomend LBS then, I've heard its hard to bash a rim into shape
and that you need some kind of special tool

--
thejdw

dunawan said:

why are koxx one unicycles so costly???

forrestunifreak said:

They are expensive because they use only the finest soft drink cans.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

don't follow Jesus, follow me!<<

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I was hoping for a stratigic way to tighten spokes and get rid of the
bump.

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Evan Byrne
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Evan Byrne said:

I was hoping for a stratigic way to tighten spokes and get rid of the
bump.

Tighten or loosen spokes on both sides of the rim equally to fix
roundness errors. It usually takes more adjustment than sideways
errors; at least a half turn on both sides of the rim.

--
tholub
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Did you build the wheel by doing up each spoke the same amoutn to get
the tensions equal, rather than by checking the true and adjusting the
spoke tension around the rim?

To quote sheldon:

For vertical truing, find the highest high spot on the rim. If the
center of this high spot is between two spokes, tighten each of them
1/2 turn. If the high spot is centered over one spoke, tighten that
spoke one full turn, and each of the two spokes next to it that go to
the other flange, 1/2 turn. It takes a larger adjustment to affect the
vertical truing than the horizontal truing. Vertical truing should
usually be done by tightening spokes, gradually building up the tension
in the wheel as you go along.

When building my 36" after the initial tightening I had some serious
bump that needed to be sorted out, following this i was able to get it
down to a minimum. Hope it helps.

--
kington99

Dave

- what a thoroughly post-modern subversion of the cycling genre -
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Evan Byrne said:

I was hoping for a stratigic way to tighten spokes and get rid of the
bump.

hmmm well i once saw this vid on youtube where a guy was hitting the
spokes with a hammer, it worked for him.

--
thejdw

dunawan said:

why are koxx one unicycles so costly???

forrestunifreak said:

They are expensive because they use only the finest soft drink cans.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

don't follow Jesus, follow me!<<

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The following information comes from "The art of Wheelbuilding" by Gerd
Schraner. "Radial Correction - If the rim is deformed inwards, nipples
should be loosened. If the deformation is outwards, the nipple should
be tightened. The neighboring nipples must also be adjusted in the same
way. If the deformation is small, adjust the two neighboring nipples,
i.e., the one to the left and the one to the right. "

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Evan Byrne said:

Man this wheel has it in for me. Well, after fixing the cross lacing
mess and getting it all trued up, tensioned and stressed...Turns out
its not round either. How can I push/pull a 2-3mm bump out of a rim?

Can you not just true it out?

Tighten the spokes through the bump, possibly slacken either side.
Maybe I'm not understanding the problem, but I'd regard this as part
of "all trued up".

When I build wheels, I :
1: lace
2: tension about half way
3: get it round (radial truing)
4: finalise tension (radial truing having generally raised the
tension)
5: laterally true.
6: stress relieve
7: true
8: stress relieve
9: tweak

Quoted message said:

(Please experinced answers only.)

I've never built a unicycle wheel.
I build my own bike wheels, though I do currently have one bike which
is still on its original wheels which I haven't yet replaced.

regards, Ian SMith
--
|\ /| no .sig
|o o|
|/ \|

In the past I have never had a rim that needed radial truing, I always
just used beefy ass rims that took a lot of pull to go out of wack
radialy.

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Evan Byrne
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I had a DX 32 a few years back... it needed redial truing from the box.
Its not that common with beefy rims but it does happen. I've always
done the same steps as what Ian said in the last post. It helps to have
a good truing stand to put your wheel on so that you can see exactlly
how dished the sheel is exe.

--
Checkernuts

No one said it was gonna be easy and I'm not afraid to try, with the
odds stacked up against me I will have to fight, One Life One Wheel got
to do it right. H2O

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one wheeled death squad*
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Sweet, The wheel is now perfectly round. However, the tension is messed.
If I tension it now will those bumps come back?

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Evan Byrne
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Evan Byrne said:

Sweet, The wheel is now perfectly round. However, the tension is messed.
If I tension it now will those bumps come back?

To some extent. You need to consider tension, straightness, and
roundness together, and come to the best compromise. It's rarely
possible to get them all perfect at the same time.

--
tholub
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If you started with a decent rim, then the excursions are due to your
work (sorry to say). So back off on the tension (say, 2 turns each
spoke), true it nicely (both radially and laterally), stress relieve,
then do 3-4 cycles of [tension 1/2 turn, true, stress-relieve]. Don't
worry about having all the spokes the same tension. When you're done
with the 4 cycles, then your spokes will be as close to the same
tension as the wheel will allow.

When you have more experience building, you'll be able to control more
fully the tradeoffs between wheel strength and necessary trueness that
Tom Holub was talking about.

A perfect rim (with no change in material properties at the
<non-existent> joint) would basically have the same tension in all the
spokes.

--
U-Turn

Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.
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U-Turn said:

If you started with a decent rim, then the excursions are due to your
work (sorry to say). So back off on the tension (say, 2 turns each
spoke), true it nicely (both radially and laterally), stress relieve,
then do 3-4 cycles of [tension 1/2 turn, true, stress-relieve]. Don't
worry about having all the spokes the same tension. When you're done
with the 4 cycles, then your spokes will be as close to the same
tension as the wheel will allow.

When you have more experience building, you'll be able to control more
fully the tradeoffs between wheel strength and necessary trueness that
Tom Holub was talking about.

A perfect rim (with no change in material properties at the
<non-existent> joint) would basically have the same tension in all the
spokes.

on this subject, I just tightened all the loose spokes on my freestyle
unicycle, but now it seems to be out of true it several places. what
should I do to fix this?

--
mornish

aim:kiloornish
email: mornish AT gmail DOT com

Corrie, Max, and Miles presents... Collab Video. coming soon to the
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I don't belive the bumps were from my build. I tightened every spoke
evenly the whole way. The rim is designed for maximum lightness so that
might have been the problem.

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Evan Byrne
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Evan Byrne said:

I don't belive the bumps were from my build. I tightened every spoke
evenly the whole way. The rim is designed for maximum lightness so that
might have been the problem.

You've got to accept responsability for the work that you do. If the
rim was the problem, you probably wouldn't be able to get it round. You
need to accept that your work is the reason that the wheel didn't turn
out perfect the first time and that's O.K. When you deal with mechanics
, it's very unlikely that you won't have to tweak it here and there to
get good results. Once you do this, you will learn from it and be a
better wheel builder, mechanic..... On the other hand, blame the parts,
light, tools, you'll always be looking for excuses.

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After a lot of stressing its all perfect now. Thanks for the help.

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when you tensioned it up initially did you tighten the spokes so just a
touch of the threads were showing, then went around the wheel turning
about 1 turn on each nipple until tight? that's how you should build.
very evenly. i recently found this out myself building a wheel for my
new mtb. i tightened some up more than others during the building
phase, not even thinking about it. then had to relace the whole thing
as it was the fastest way to fix my mistake.

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markf

'my Des Moines Iowa Bike Shop' (http://www.irwinsbikes.com)
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