Volker Gringmuth said:Next week, I'm going to be on Wainwright's C2C for a third time -
after eight years of abstinence.
Umm, we did two thirds of it. Actually, I did two thirds of it for
the third time now, so I did the walk twice, mathematically.
It's the weather's fault. I surely do not expect two weeks without
any rain on a walk through England, but neither do I expect days and
days with nothing but pouring rain ...
As I already said, it was me and my 13-year-old cousin on the walk.
Generally, he did a better job than me (no wonder as he has much
less of body mass to carry around!).
Aug 4th: Started in St Bees. Rain in the morning, but cleared up
when approaching Dent. Started again exactly 100 yards before Dent
Top, spoiling the planned rest and soaking our boots. Rain did not
cease until we reached Ennerdale Bridge at 3 pm (!), but then it did
(laughing at us?). Found out that the camp site at the end of the
hamlet, placed on a former farm ground, is somewhat low-end (a note
in the shower says, "please close the door to stop the hens making a
mess" - so they make it just in front of the door). Apparently, the
shop in the village does not sell food essentials any more (pity).
5th: Weather seemed to be clear, though the tent is wet all over.
Walked through Ennerdale Forest, not feeling strong enough for High
Stile. Loft Beck made it clear to me that I should practise
fellwalking a bit more often (ugh!). It started to rain at Honister
Crag, just as we had reached Drum House. Enough to wet us through
until Stonethwaite camp site.
6th: Weather indifferent in the morning. Started early for Grasmere.
Weather was really good then, allowing fine views from Lining Crag
and Greenup edge. Very wet and muddy on Greenup Edge and the
crossing of Wythburn dale! The boy didn't want to try the Helm Crag
alternative route, so we descended normally through Easedale.
Wonderful scenery. Found out that Grasmere keeps strongly to the
tradition of not having any camp site. Luckily, the Butterlip How
YHA still had two beds for us.
7th: Weather fine. Walked up to Grisedale Tarn, using the eastern
route this time (last time, we walked over the Tongue). Eastern is
nicer I think. Very strong winds on Grisedale Pass. We found the
weather fine enough to take the Helvellyn route. I do not regret
that decision; in fact, this was the most glorious point of our
whole walk. Helvellyn is outstanding. The descent via Striding Edge
with all its rock-climbing is, however, not the best route for those
who carry large backpacks (as we did). Arrived at Patterdale with
weary feet, finding that the camp site was full. But they were
kindly enough to find a small pitch for our small tent. (Note: That
was the only day without any rain at all.)
8th: Fine morning. Reached Angle Tarn in time to have some rest and
enjoy the scenery. Strong winds, but the view wasn't as clear as it
was last time when I was up there. The winds grew stronger and
stronger towards Kidsty Pike (I like that!); on the summit of Kidsty
Pike you could have leant against the wind without any danger of
falling down I bet. Tedious walking along Haweswater. During the
last section from Burnbanks to Shap, I thought my feet would fall
off. Maybe I had eaten too less for breakfast. Rain in the evening
and all the night. The Bulls Head had put their camping fees up to
£5 per person (too much I think).
9th: Heavy rain. Started for Kirkby Stephen, trying to ignore the
weather. Got a bit finer towards Oddendale and kept dry as we were
walking over Crosby Ravensworth Fell but started raining again when
we approached Orton, so I decided to stay in Orton for the rest of
the day (my feet still felt weary from the day before). All B&B
accommodation was booked out, so we had to stay at the New House
Farm camp site. Pitched the tent in heavy showers, aware of the fact
that nothing of our clothing would dry if it kept raining.
10th: Still pouring with rain, but as our boots were already wet, we
started for Kirkby Stephen nevertheless. The road section was fine
walking, but the meadows were very muddy. The cart-track leaving
Smardale Bridge to the west now was something like a raging river to
cross. There was at least as much water inside our boots than
outside by this time. Arriving at the YHA in Kirkby Stephen, I
hardly could walk any more for the rest of the evening. When I walk
with soggy feet, they tend to develop considerable blisters below my
toes (best place to make any further walking a pain). Well, they did
that day.
11th: I rather would have a rest day for my feet but the boy said
the weather was too fine not to walk. Well, he was right; anyway, we
took the road to Keld, as oncoming walkers had told us that the moor
between Ravenseat and the Nine Standards was very muddy after all
the days of rain. That was a fine day of walking, the road is a
beautiful way as well - hardly any cars and grand scenery around.
Some short showers didn't irritate us. Put up our tent on the "best
camp site on the C2C", as it claimed to be (just opposite the
"longest quarter-of-a-mile in northern England"😉. It is really fine
and friendly, the only disadvantage being the millions of midgets
(literally!) in the evening.
12th: Rain. Decided to walk to Reeth anyway, as it seems to tend to
clear up. It didn't do so at all. We kept to the road due to the
weather and the mud; the "upper way" is of no worth if you can't
enjoy the scenery, and you surely can't if it's all rain around.
Lots of heavy showers on the way. Learned how long the last 4 miles
can be with the aforementioned blisters growing up in their
favourite climate. I limped into Reeth, wondering why the boy still
could walk so fine. But during that day of heavy rain, his mood had
also reached its lower end, and I really could not walk any more.
After all, walking the C2C should be fun and not torture. We put the
decision off until next morning.
13rd: Looked not very fine, so we decided to pack it in for this
year. Spent the day in Reeth, went to Richmond by bus and further to
Brompton. Had a fine recovering rest day at Village Farm Camping
Barn (highly recommendable!).
Bad luck with the weather! I talked to some people about it, and
they all said they hadn't ever seen such a rainy fortnight as the
one we unfortunately had put our walk in.
There'll be another opportunity ...
vG
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~~~~~~ Volker Gringmuth ~~~~~~~~~~~ http://einklich.net/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Phantasie ist wichtiger als Wissen. (Albert Einstein)