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Vibration when braking - Rolf Vigor

Started by rousslang · · Last activity · 6 posts · 650 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
28 December 2005
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30 December 2005
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rousslang
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  1. I have a used set of Rolf Vigors, and the front wheel vibrates when
    braking at 20 mph or less, but not when braking hard at higher speeds.
    I ride a 2002 Klein Q-Pro Carbon, and when I swap the front wheel with
    a Rolf Vector Pro (8000 miles on it), or a Mavic Open Pro CD with
    Record hub or Mavic MA3 with Record hub, both of which I built myself,
    the braking under identical conditions is as smooth as soft butter.

    The wheel was slightly out-of-true laterally, but when I used the Rolf
    truing tool to true it to within less than 0.25mm lateral true, the
    problem was the same. There is a very tiny amount of play in the
    cartridge wheel bearing, detected only when pushing on the rim when the
    wheel is in the fork, or in my truing stand.

    Is it possible that a slightly loose wheel bearing could cause this
    vibration, since the vibration is completely gone at, say, 30 mph under
    hard braking.

  2. Quoted message said:

    I have a used set of Rolf Vigors, and the front wheel vibrates when
    braking at 20 mph or less, but not when braking hard at higher speeds.
    I ride a 2002 Klein Q-Pro Carbon, and when I swap the front wheel with
    a Rolf Vector Pro (8000 miles on it), or a Mavic Open Pro CD with
    Record hub or Mavic MA3 with Record hub, both of which I built myself,
    the braking under identical conditions is as smooth as soft butter.

    The wheel was slightly out-of-true laterally, but when I used the Rolf
    truing tool to true it to within less than 0.25mm lateral true, the
    problem was the same. There is a very tiny amount of play in the
    cartridge wheel bearing, detected only when pushing on the rim when the
    wheel is in the fork, or in my truing stand.

    Is it possible that a slightly loose wheel bearing could cause this
    vibration, since the vibration is completely gone at, say, 30 mph under
    hard braking.

    First thing to try, if you haven't already, is to reverse the wheel (flip it
    around in the dropout) and see if it's still there.

    Was the wheel OK initially and now exhibits this?

    In general, lateral trueness isn't the issue; "hop" is more likely. This is
    because rim width may vary slightly along the rim wall, so any up-and-down
    motion might give the pads more, then less, pressure.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

  3. Rousslang said:

    I have a used set of Rolf Vigors, and the front wheel
    vibrates when braking at 20 mph or less, but not when
    braking hard at higher speeds.
    I ride a 2002 Klein Q-Pro Carbon, and when I swap the
    front wheel with a Rolf Vector Pro (8000 miles on it), or
    a Mavic Open Pro CD with Record hub or Mavic MA3
    with Record hub, both of which I built myself,
    the braking under identical conditions is as smooth as
    soft butter.

    I had a vibration from braking on the front that over time progressed
    into a violent chatter on my rain bike. It also felt a little "grabby"
    on first touch of the brakes. I couldn't tell during the rides if it
    was the headset, the brake, or the wheel, but it was much worse at
    certain speeds. Swapping with another wheel made it go away. The rim
    looked worn but not worn out - even though it was. The rim wall had
    thinned out making the braking surface uneven. Open Pro rim -
    surprised it didn't start to crack first.

  4. Rouss Lang said:

    I have a used set of Rolf Vigors, and the front wheel vibrates when
    braking at 20 mph or less, but not when braking hard at higher
    speeds. I ride a 2002 Klein Q-Pro Carbon, and when I swap the front
    wheel with a Rolf Vector Pro (8000 miles on it), or a Mavic Open Pro
    CD with Record hub or Mavic MA3 with Record hub, both of which I
    built myself, the braking under identical conditions is as smooth as
    soft butter.

    Could you describe the "vibrates" a bit more. Hear at the KBD it
    isn't readily apparent whether this is a vibration several times per
    wheel rotation, a more rapid chatter, or a brake vibration at near
    acoustic frequency, quite aside from brake squeal. The kind of brake
    may also have en effect on this

    Quoted message said:

    The wheel was slightly out-of-true laterally, but when I used the
    Rolf truing tool to true it to within less than 0.25mm lateral true,
    the problem was the same. There is a very tiny amount of play in the
    cartridge wheel bearing, detected only when pushing on the rim when
    the wheel is in the fork, or in my truing stand.

    Quoted message said:

    Is it possible that a slightly loose wheel bearing could cause this
    vibration, since the vibration is completely gone at, say, 30 mph
    under hard braking.

    Neither alignment or wheel bearing clearance will cause vibration so
    you can rule that out. From the Rolf web site, it seems there were
    earlier models that were a bit flimsy, so it is possible that the
    wheel is true on the average but has varying width or even vertical
    between spoke variations.

    I notice that Rolf claims to be the inventor of the 1890 patented
    wheel of R.S. Lovelace. (See Andrew Ritchie's "King of the Road".)

    # Rolf Dietrich is the inventor of the paired-spoke bicycle wheel
    # design.

    Paired-spoke wheels vanished from bicycling more than 100 years ago
    for good reason.

    Jobst Brandt

  5. jobst.brandt said:

    I notice that Rolf claims to be the inventor of the 1890 patented wheel of
    R.S. Lovelace. (See Andrew Ritchie's "King of the Road".)

    # Rolf Dietrich is the inventor of the paired-spoke bicycle wheel #
    design.

    Paired-spoke wheels vanished from bicycling more than 100 years ago for
    good reason.

    It may be so, but my Rolfs seem to work fine in spite of themselves.

    I had my reservations at first, considering selling them on eBay and
    putting the proceeds toward "real" wheels. But I have several thousand
    miles on them now with no problems. I did rebuild them once, but the
    problem there was lack of stress-relieving, etc., and not design.

    Matt O.

  6. Upon close inspection under bright lights at my LBS, there was
    noticeable curving of the brake surface on both sides near the seam
    (where the machined brake surface should be flat!). Even though
    laterally true, with no hop, this "curvature" forced the brake shoe to
    follow the contour. These wheels were purchased from a private party
    as "nearly new," but apparently had been dented, and straightened, but
    inadequately. Really tough to see, even on a truing stand. My
    micrometer showed that the curvature allowed almost 0.5 mm of roll-off
    a few mm from the radial maximum of the rim, whereas the braking
    surface was otherwise flat (less than 0.03 mm variation elsewhere).

    And Jobst, FWIW, the Rolf Vector Pros I have ridden for the last 3
    years have 15000 Km on them, and are true as the day I first rode them.
    Whatever you have against paired spoke technology, I have never broken
    a spoke, which I can't say for conventional wheels I've owned, nor have
    my Rolfs given me any trouble of any kind. I have built a half-dozen
    wheels, Mavic Open Pro/Record mostly, using your book on wheelbuilding,
    and I've been very pleased. But they have not outperformed the Rolfs
    in any way.

    Cheers,

    Rousslang (not Rouss Lang)

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