V-rex 24" Frame Conversion?

Byron Simms said:

I have a 1995 Rans V-rex with the unusual 20" (450mm) front and 24" (520mm) rear wheel
configuration. I have enjoyed the bike thoroughly for several years now, except when it's time to
buy tires and tubes. The 520/24" rear wheel is expecially tough to find wide tires for; the
widest I have seen listed is 1 3/8", sold by Terry Bicycles, for a whopping $40! I am considering
a long distance, cross-country tour next year, and am uneasy about riding unsupported with
narrow, hard-to-find tires. My question is, has anyone else out there with this rare breed of
V-Rex ever had the rear brake bridge cut off and moved forward, so that the frame would
accomodate a 26" wheel/tire? I'm sure that a good frame builder or welder could do the job
without too much damage to my custom paint job, but I just have no idea what something like this
would cost.

Bryon,

I have a '97 V-Rex24, probably the last one ever made. Like you, I love the bike but hate buying
tires for it. There are a few possibilities.

1. Have an ISO 507 wheel made for it. If you have canti or V type brakes, you won't have to
modify anything, the brakes will adjust far enough to use the new rim. This allows you to use
the Vee Rubber
1a1.25, AKA 'Fat Girl' (the old 24" Fat Boy.) I don't know if they're available anymore, but there
used to be an IRC Metro in
1a2.00, which was nearly indestructible. There is also lots of lower pressure mountain bike tires
available for that rim, since the size is used for kids' mountain bikes.

2. You can take the bike to your LBS and have them test-fit a 26" wheel. I know people who have done
the conversion, and it *should* fit, although you might be limited in how fat a tire you can use.
In this case, you might be able to use your brake bridge for a caliper brake, because it'll be
pretty close to the tire.

3. Keep the V-Rex just the way it is and get a Rocket for the tour. The Rocket will use BMX-standard
406 tires front and rear, with a zillion tire choices from stupidly skinny to hugely fat. This
option saves your valuable V-Rex the way it is, you only need to pack one spare tire, you get to
keep the familiar RANS seat and riding position, and you get a second 'bent! :-) I like this
option because you also eliminate the problem of finding a durable 451 tire for the front.

I am currently running a 451 front with a Stelvio 20x1-1/8, and a 507 rear with a Vee Rubber
24x1.25. Over the winter I had the canti studs removed in favor of a disc brake mount. Any wheel
size is possible now, from 406 to 559, so long as the wheel has a disc hub. I had a reputable frame
builder do the work and the welding was relatively cheap (under $50 for all the work, including
adding several cable stops/guides.) It did, however, unavoidably ruin a swath of paint on my stays,
which is why I had the welding done *before* the frame got a beautiful new powder coat.
--

John Foltz --- O _ Baron --- _O _ V-Rex 24 --- _\\/\-%)
_________(_)`=()___________________(_)= (_)_____

"Byron Simms" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

<snip>

Quoted message said:

I have a 1995 Rans V-rex with the unusual 20" (450mm) front and 24"

(520mm)

Quoted message said:

rear wheel configuration.. My question is, has anyone else out there with this rare breed of V-Rex
ever had the rear brake bridge cut off and moved forward, so that the frame would accomodate a 26"
wheel/tire?

Quoted message said:

I'm sure that a good frame builder or welder could do the job without too much damage to my custom
paint job, but I just have no idea what something like this would cost.

I'm no expert on this, but welding and brazing are two different things. You will need to have the
brake bosses brazed on. In my experience brazers are harder to find than welders, but any good frame
shop should be able to do the job for you. If there isn't a frame shop or brazer where you live then
you may want to consider sending the frame back to RANS. I don't think going to a 26" wheel would
alter the handling on that model to a great degree, but I would ask RANS just the same. How much
would it cost? I don't know, but you did mention a custom paint job. All in all it could be pricey
and the bike would need to be out of service for a while.

On the other hand my riding partner has one of those Terry bikes with a 24" front wheel and we've
hauled a 24" tire around with us for years for the very reasons you mention. It can be done.

skip

how about getting a www.bigcheese.com v-brake adapter, and use dual 20's or cut the bridge and use
it there also?

John Foltz said:

Byron Simms said:

I have a 1995 Rans V-rex with the unusual 20" (450mm) front and 24" (520mm) rear wheel
configuration. I have enjoyed the bike thoroughly for several years now, except when it's time
to buy tires and tubes. The 520/24" rear wheel is expecially tough to find wide tires for; the
widest I have seen listed is 1 3/8", sold by Terry Bicycles, for a whopping $40! I am
considering a long distance, cross-country tour next year, and am uneasy about riding
unsupported with narrow, hard-to-find tires. My question is, has anyone else out there with
this rare breed of V-Rex ever had the rear brake bridge cut off and moved forward, so that the
frame would accomodate a 26" wheel/tire? I'm sure that a good frame builder or welder could do
the job without too much damage to my custom paint job, but I just have no idea what something
like this would cost.

Bryon,

I have a '97 V-Rex24, probably the last one ever made. Like you, I love the bike but hate buying
tires for it. There are a few possibilities.

1. Have an ISO 507 wheel made for it. If you have canti or V type brakes, you won't have to modify
anything, the brakes will adjust far enough to use the new rim. This allows you to use the Vee
Rubber
24x1.25, AKA 'Fat Girl' (the old 24" Fat Boy.) I don't know if they're available anymore, but
there used to be an IRC Metro in
24x2.00, which was nearly indestructible. There is also lots of lower pressure mountain bike tires
available for that rim, since the size is used for kids' mountain bikes.

2. You can take the bike to your LBS and have them test-fit a 26" wheel. I know people who have
done the conversion, and it *should* fit, although you might be limited in how fat a tire you
can use. In this case, you might be able to use your brake bridge for a caliper brake, because
it'll be pretty close to the tire.

3. Keep the V-Rex just the way it is and get a Rocket for the tour. The Rocket will use
BMX-standard 406 tires front and rear, with a zillion tire choices from stupidly skinny to
hugely fat. This option saves your valuable V-Rex the way it is, you only need to pack one
spare tire, you get to keep the familiar RANS seat and riding position, and you get a second
'bent! :-) I like this option because you also eliminate the problem of finding a durable 451
tire for the front.

I am currently running a 451 front with a Stelvio 20x1-1/8, and a 507 rear with a Vee Rubber
24x1.25. Over the winter I had the canti studs removed in favor of a disc brake mount. Any
wheel size is possible now, from 406 to 559, so long as the wheel has a disc hub. I had a
reputable frame builder do the work and the welding was relatively cheap (under $50 for all the
work, including adding several cable stops/guides.) It did, however, unavoidably ruin a swath
of paint on my stays, which is why I had the welding done *before* the frame got a beautiful
new powder coat.

Schwalbe tires has them. Bob

"Byron Simms" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I have a 1995 Rans V-rex with the unusual 20" (450mm) front and 24"

(520mm)

Quoted message said:

rear wheel configuration. I have enjoyed the bike thoroughly for several years now, except when
it's time to buy tires and tubes. The 520/24" rear wheel is expecially tough to find wide tires
for; the widest I have seen listed is 1 3/8", sold by Terry Bicycles, for a whopping $40! I am
considering a long distance, cross-country tour next year, and am uneasy about riding unsupported
with narrow, hard-to-find tires. My

question

Quoted message said:

is, has anyone else out there with this rare breed of V-Rex ever had the rear brake bridge cut off
and moved forward, so that the frame would accomodate a 26" wheel/tire? I'm sure that a good frame
builder or welder could do the job without too much damage to my custom paint job, but I just have
no idea what something like this would cost.

Anyone?

Byron Simms 95' V-Rex Trek R 200

bentbiker said:

how about getting a www.bigcheese.com v-brake adapter, and use dual 20's or cut the bridge and use
it there also?

Your link didn't work for me, but if it's what I think it is, it would let him use a canti or
straight pull brake with a 559 wheel. (Assuming his brake bridge allows him to fit the tire.) Byron,
check your distance from axle center to the brake bridge. Mine is 13 3/4 inches, which is enough for
at least a 26x1.5 tire.

--

John Foltz --- O _ Baron --- _O _ V-Rex 24 --- _\\/\-%)
_________(_)`=()___________________(_)= (_)_____

be cheese has two adapters, 1 for canti 1 for v-brake, i'm using the v-brake one now on a "lowered"
sidewalker scooter. Contact Ed Deaton at foolscrow, he carries them.

John Foltz said:

bentbiker said:

how about getting a www.bigcheese.com v-brake adapter, and use dual 20's or cut the bridge and
use it there also?

Your link didn't work for me, but if it's what I think it is, it would let him use a canti or
straight pull brake with a 559 wheel. (Assuming his brake bridge allows him to fit the tire.)
Byron, check your distance from axle center to the brake bridge. Mine is 13 3/4 inches, which is
enough for at least a 26x1.5 tire.

That "Big Cheese" link didn't work for me either. I measured the hub center to brake bridge
distance: 11.875". No cantilever posts on the frame OR fork. I've actually purchased a weird sized
wide 24" tire (~1.75"😉 years ago, and it was too large in diameter and rubbed on the rear brake
bridge when inflated. Dang, no go.

My other option is to tour with my Trek R-200, but that presents another set of challenges. Heavy
bike, tough to mount fenders and no obvious way to mount pannier racks. I could get a large aero
seat pack and tow a trailer... The other concern is the rare drivetrain "mid-drive" configuration.
Does Trek or any dealers maintain a supply of the 5-speed mid-drive cassette?

Byron

"John Foltz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

bentbiker said:

how about getting a www.bigcheese.com v-brake adapter, and use dual 20's or cut the bridge and
use it there also?

Your link didn't work for me, but if it's what I think it is, it would let him use a canti or
straight pull brake with a 559 wheel. (Assuming his brake bridge allows him to fit the tire.)
Byron, check your distance from axle center to the brake bridge. Mine is 13 3/4 inches, which is
enough for at least a 26x1.5 tire.

--

John Foltz --- O _ Baron --- _O _ V-Rex 24 --- _\\/\-%) _________(_)`=()___________________(_)=
(_)_____

url='http://www.bigcheesebikes.com/etc/lpbmbig.htm'http://www.bigcheesebikes.com/etc/lpbmbig.htm/url Byron Simms said:

That "Big Cheese" link didn't work for me either. I measured the hub center to brake bridge
distance: 11.875". No cantilever posts on the frame OR fork. I've actually purchased a weird sized
wide 24" tire (~1.75"😉 years ago, and it was too large in diameter and rubbed on the rear brake
bridge when inflated. Dang, no go.

My other option is to tour with my Trek R-200, but that presents another set of challenges. Heavy
bike, tough to mount fenders and no obvious way to mount pannier racks. I could get a large aero
seat pack and tow a trailer... The other concern is the rare drivetrain "mid-drive" configuration.
Does Trek or any dealers maintain a supply of the 5-speed mid-drive cassette?

Byron

"John Foltz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

bentbiker said:

how about getting a www.bigcheese.com v-brake adapter, and use dual 20's or cut the bridge and
use it there also?

Your link didn't work for me, but if it's what I think it is, it would let him use a canti or
straight pull brake with a 559 wheel. (Assuming his brake bridge allows him to fit the tire.)
Byron, check your distance from axle center to the brake bridge. Mine is 13 3/4 inches, which is
enough for at least a 26x1.5 tire.

--

John Foltz --- O _ Baron --- _O _ V-Rex 24 --- _\\/\-%) _________(_)`=()___________________(_)=
(_)_____

"Byron Simms" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

That "Big Cheese" link didn't work for me either. I measured the hub center to brake bridge
distance: 11.875". No cantilever posts on the frame OR fork. I've actually purchased a weird sized
wide 24" tire (~1.75"😉 years ago, and it was too large in diameter and rubbed on the rear brake
bridge when inflated. Dang, no go.

My other option is to tour with my Trek R-200, but that presents another set of challenges. Heavy
bike, tough to mount fenders and no obvious way to mount pannier racks. I could get a large aero
seat pack and tow a trailer... The other concern is the rare drivetrain "mid-drive" configuration.
Does Trek or any dealers maintain a supply of the 5-speed mid-drive cassette?

Hmm, that is significantly less space than on my bike. No doubt because the closer clearance was
required by the caliper brakes. It's impossible to predict from here if you would be able to move
your brake pads 6.5mm further to accomodate the 507 wheel with your existing brakes, but the Big
Cheese adapter suggested by bentbiker would probably work for using the 24x1.25 Vee Rubber.

If you want to consider using the R-200, I suggest you visit this site and contact the writer:
tailwinds.orgtailwinds.orgOpen ↗ , as he has done extensive riding with his R-200.

Quoted message said:

I am currently running a 451 front with a Stelvio 20x1-1/8, and a 507 rear with a Vee Rubber
24x1.25. Over the winter I had the canti studs removed in favor of a disc brake mount. Any
wheel size is possible now, from 406 to 559, so long as the wheel has a disc hub. I had a
reputable frame builder do the work and the welding was relatively cheap (under $50 for all the
work, including adding several cable stops/guides.) It did, however, unavoidably ruin a swath
of paint on my stays, which is why I had the welding done *before* the frame got a beautiful
new powder coat.

John, how do you like the disk brakes? I have been thinking (dreaming?) about having this done to my
Rocket and upgrading to pantour wheels F/R. I Hate the brakes on my Rocket, and I think the bike
could be sooo much more than it is already.

[email hidden] (recumbentG) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

John, how do you like the disk brakes? I have been thinking (dreaming?) about having this done to
my Rocket and upgrading to pantour wheels F/R. I Hate the brakes on my Rocket, and I think the
bike could be sooo much more than it is already.

I have them on my Baron and liked them so much I found I was riding the V-Rex less because the
V-brakes felt so terrible in comparison. I've obviously installed something wrong because it's a bit
on the weak side, whereas on the Baron I can skid both wheels with one finger each. Further tweaking
to follow...