V brake shortcoming?

So bicyclette <[email hidden]> says:

Quoted message said:

Based on the great advice as usual I did get V brakes to
replace Cantis after the suspension fork upgrade, which I
wrote about earlier. Can't say anything bad about the V
brakes really, in my novice opinion they are easy to
install and the simple design makes them attractive. One
thing I found wierd was that when you optimize all the
cable length adjusting knobs, (i.e. lever adjustor, cable
length adjustor at brake and brake shoe adjustor) for
minimum brake lever pull, you can't get the noodle off
anymore and hence the wheel (inflated) off any more. With
cantis you could slip off the cable end stud with a
minimum of pushing the shoes together. With the noodle you
need much more displacement. Am I missing something here
or do you have to build slack into some adjustor and
release it everytime to get the wheel off, then readjust
or deflate tire?

Run them looser, they'll stop the bike just fine loose
enough to disengage the cable.

jeffb

bicyclette said:

Based on the great advice as usual I did get V brakes to
replace Cantis after the suspension fork upgrade, which I
wrote about earlier. Can't say anything bad about the V
brakes really, in my novice opinion they are easy to
install and the simple design makes them attractive. One
thing I found wierd was that when you optimize all the
cable length adjusting knobs, (i.e. lever adjustor, cable
length adjustor at brake and brake shoe adjustor) for
minimum brake lever pull, you can't get the noodle off
anymore and hence the wheel (inflated) off any more. With
cantis you could slip off the cable end stud with a
minimum of pushing the shoes together. With the noodle you
need much more displacement. Am I missing something here
or do you have to build slack into some adjustor and
release it everytime to get the wheel off, then readjust
or deflate tire?

Look again - the V-brake no doubt has a "release" to
allow the noodle to exit the pivoted portion of the
linkage. Just squeeze the arms toward each other, and it
should be obvious.

Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles habcycles.comhabcycles.comOpen ↗ Home of
the $695 ti frame

Quoted message said:

Look again - the V-brake no doubt has a "release" to allow
the noodle to exit the pivoted portion of the linkage.
Just squeeze the arms toward each other, and it should be
obvious.

I believe the original poster had it correct... I think that
he or she, however, likes to put the brakes on really close
to the rims.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

bicyclette said:

One thing I found wierd was that when you optimize all the
cable length adjusting knobs, (i.e. lever adjustor, cable
length adjustor at brake and brake shoe adjustor) for
minimum brake lever pull, you can't get the noodle off
anymore and hence the wheel (inflated) off any more.

You have set your brakes too tight. If you are using V-brake-
specific levers, you should be able to set the pads well
clear of the rim and still get all your braking power in the
last half of the lever stroke.

Setting too little clearance at the pads results in the
problem you have identified. It also allows the rims to rub
the pads when the wheels are side loaded, e.g. when standing
to pedal uphill.

Chalo Colina

Quoted post said:

Quoted message said:

One thing I found wierd was that when you optimize all the
cable length adjusting knobs, (i.e. lever adjustor, cable
length adjustor at brake and brake shoe adjustor) for
minimum brake lever pull, you can't get the noodle off
anymore and hence the wheel (inflated) off any more.

Play around with the location of the spacers. I think each pad/arm comes with 2 spacers -- a thick one and a thinner one. If you put the thicker one "behind" the brake arm (ie under the head of the pad bolt), it should allow sufficient clearance for the tyres.

bicyclette said:

Based on the great advice as usual I did get V brakes to
replace Cantis after the suspension fork upgrade, which I
wrote about earlier. Can't say anything bad about the V
brakes really, in my novice opinion they are easy to
install and the simple design makes them attractive. One
thing I found wierd was that when you optimize all the
cable length adjusting knobs, (i.e. lever adjustor, cable
length adjustor at brake and brake shoe adjustor) for
minimum brake lever pull, you can't get the noodle off
anymore and hence the wheel (inflated) off any more. With
cantis you could slip off the cable end stud with a
minimum of pushing the shoes together. With the noodle you
need much more displacement. Am I missing something here
or do you have to build slack into some adjustor and
release it everytime to get the wheel off, then readjust
or deflate tire?

It's possible but you have to be very strong. Cantilevers
are the same if you have them set up close to the rim.

bicyclette said:

Based on the great advice as usual I did get V brakes to
replace Cantis after the suspension fork upgrade, which I
wrote about earlier.

Did you get new v-compatible levers, too?

Quoted message said:

One thing I found wierd was that when you optimize all
the cable length adjusting knobs, (i.e. lever adjustor,
cable length adjustor at brake and brake shoe adjustor)
for minimum brake lever pull, you can't get the noodle
off anymore and hence the wheel (inflated) off any more.

If you didn't get v-compatible brake levers or "travel
agents," you will have to run the pads very close to the
rim. With the proper brake levers, you should be able to
leave enough space between rim and pad to allow removal.

--
Dave dvt at psu dot edu

The problem in my experience has been caused by too high
post location, causing a very small arc for the pad to
travel. It seems that tighter standards on boss placement
would be part of the evolution to linear brakes. A slight
filing of the entry cone on the noodle gets 2mm. Any more
and the shoulder is compromised. Tom

--
Bruni Bicycles
"Where art meets science"
brunibicycles.com
410.426.3420
Zog The Undeniable <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:405a9bf1.0@entanet...

Quoted message said:

bicyclette said:

Based on the great advice as usual I did get V brakes to replace Cantis
after the suspension fork upgrade, which I wrote about earlier. Can't
say anything bad about the V brakes really, in my novice opinion they
are easy to install and the simple design makes them attractive. One
thing I found wierd was that when you optimize all the cable length
adjusting knobs, (i.e. lever adjustor, cable length adjustor at brake
and brake shoe adjustor) for minimum brake lever pull, you can't get the
noodle off anymore and hence the wheel (inflated) off any more. With
cantis you could slip off the cable end stud with a minimum of pushing
the shoes together. With the noodle you need much more displacement. Am
I missing something here or do you have to build slack into some
adjustor and release it everytime to get the wheel off, then readjust or
deflate tire?

It's possible but you have to be very strong. Cantilevers are the same
if you have them set up close to the rim.

dvt said:

Did you get new v-compatible levers, too?

Yes! From what I am reading my take is that you have to run
V-brake looser than Cantis to get them off.

bicyclette said:

dvt said:

Did you get new v-compatible levers, too?

Quoted message said:

Yes!

Then ignore the rest of my ramblings.

Quoted message said:

From what I am reading my take is that you have to run V-
brake looser than Cantis to get them off.

I hadn't noticed that. Then again, my experience with v-
brakes has been limited to one set of brakes. Maybe all
other v-brakes have the trait you describe.

--
Dave dvt at psu dot edu

So "Bruni" <[email hidden]> says:

Quoted message said:

The problem in my experience has been caused by too high
post location, causing a very small arc for the pad to
travel. It seems that tighter standards on boss placement
would be part of the evolution to linear brakes. A slight
filing of the entry cone on the noodle gets 2mm. Any more
and the shoulder is compromised. Tom

Hmmm. I've got a bike that the builder blew the post
location fairly badly (a SS that I had to install a 1/2
link on to get the rear tire not to touch the frame and the
brake pads not hit the tire) and have no problems
disengaging the cable.

jeffb

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Based on the great advice as usual I did get V brakes to
replace Cantis after the suspension fork upgrade, which I
wrote about earlier. Can't say anything bad about the V
brakes really, in my novice opinion they are easy to
install and the simple design makes them attractive. One
thing I found wierd was that when you optimize all the
cable length adjusting knobs, (i.e. lever adjustor, cable
length adjustor at brake and brake shoe adjustor) for
minimum brake lever pull, you can't get the noodle off
anymore and hence the wheel (inflated) off any more. With
cantis you could slip off the cable end stud with a
minimum of pushing the shoes together. With the noodle you
need much more displacement. Am I missing something here
or do you have to build slack into some adjustor and
release it everytime to get the wheel off, then readjust
or deflate tire?

Did you also get new levers to match your new brakes? My
guess is you didn't and that is why you are having problems.
The two braking systems use different levers and if you mis-
match them, they won't work properly.
--------------
Alex