V-brake cable routing troubleshoot

Brian Ray said:

Thinking the fix is simply to buy a front V-brake and mount it to the

rear

Quoted message said:

posts. Then the noodle will be on the right hand side and allow a

straighter

Well... think again. There is no difference between a front and rear
V-brake. Look at your bike and imagine what happens when you put the
"front" brake on the back - you flip it around so the cable still
enters from left side of the frame. The only V-brake I can think of
that is designed to allow the cable to enter from either side is made
by Paul, called the Motolite, VERY expensive (www.paulcomp.com).

Otherwise, maybe a cantilever brake would give you better routing?
(The Paul website has pics of those, too, if you want an example.)
That would also mean a new brake lever.

Also, some brake housings handle severe bends fairly well (google
"Nokon"😉. Also expensive.

Depending on your frame, you might be able to get clamp-on cable stops
that let you run the housing along the right side of the frame. Or, if
you aren't too vain, you could tape a continuous piece of housing along
the right side of the frame.
I recommend taking it to a bike shop. Hard to tell you what will work
best without seeing the bike.

-Vee

"Vee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Brian Ray said:

Thinking the fix is simply to buy a front V-brake and mount it to the

rear

Quoted message said:

posts. Then the noodle will be on the right hand side and allow a

straighter

Well... think again. There is no difference between a front and rear
V-brake. Look at your bike and imagine what happens when you put the
"front" brake on the back - you flip it around so the cable still
enters from left side of the frame. The only V-brake I can think of
that is designed to allow the cable to enter from either side is made
by Paul, called the Motolite, VERY expensive (www.paulcomp.com).

Ah yes, I'm losing my mind. There's no difference in the noodle between
front and rear. Got confused because vendors sell front- and rear-specific V
brakes, eg

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=2699&category
=963

What the difference is escapes me.

Avid also seems to also make a pricey brake with a "reversable" noodle,
called the Ultimate. Paul's here in my home town, though ...

Quoted message said:

I recommend taking it to a bike shop. Hard to tell you what will work
best without seeing the bike.

Agreed.

Thanks for the tips,

Brian Ray

Brian Ray said:

"Vee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Brian Ray said:

Thinking the fix is simply to buy a front V-brake and mount it to
the rear posts. Then the noodle will be on the right hand side and
allow a straighter

Well... think again. There is no difference between a front and rear
V-brake. Look at your bike and imagine what happens when you put the
"front" brake on the back - you flip it around so the cable still
enters from left side of the frame. The only V-brake I can think of
that is designed to allow the cable to enter from either side is made
by Paul, called the Motolite, VERY expensive (www.paulcomp.com).

Ah yes, I'm losing my mind. There's no difference in the noodle
between front and rear. Got confused because vendors sell front- and
rear-specific V brakes, eg

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=2699&category
=963

What the difference is escapes me.

Avid also seems to also make a pricey brake with a "reversable"
noodle, called the Ultimate. Paul's here in my home town, though ...

Quoted message said:

I recommend taking it to a bike shop. Hard to tell you what will
work best without seeing the bike.

Agreed.

Thanks for the tips,

Brian Ray

Look into the Ultimate, but I'm curious why your brake cable stop is on the
right.

Out of curiosity, are you in a country where the right lever controls the
rear brake or the front brake?

Cable stops for v-brakes should be on the left side no matter what. See if
you can't pull out your cables and housing out of the left side, and then
transfer it to the far left set of cable stops. If you can't, then take off
the ferrules at the ends of the housing, and run the bare housing into the
far left cable stops. It should fit into it and give you a better line to
your rear brake.

If your brake lever is on the left, route your housing around the front of
your headtube and under or over your top tube and into the far left stop.
The extra 15mm of distance shouldn't make too big of a kink. I did this on
my bike to run left-rear/right-front brakes.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Look into the Ultimate, but I'm curious why your brake cable stop is on

the

Quoted message said:

right.

Out of curiosity, are you in a country where the right lever controls the
rear brake or the front brake?

I'm here in the USA, right lever is the rear brake. It's a Habanero and so
fortunately, the frame's designer can actually jump in here if he catches
this post. All the cable stops run on the right side of the top tube; rear
brake and both derailleur cables run neatly in parallel. Here's a pic:

http://www.habcycles.com/mtb.html

Quoted message said:

Cable stops for v-brakes should be on the left side no matter what. See

if

Quoted message said:

you can't pull out your cables and housing out of the left side, and then
transfer it to the far left set of cable stops. [...]
If your brake lever is on the left, route your housing around the front of
your headtube and under or over your top tube and into the far left stop.
The extra 15mm of distance shouldn't make too big of a kink. I did this

on

Quoted message said:

my bike to run left-rear/right-front brakes.

Not sure if I'm following you on these tips ... there just aren't any cable
stops on the left side of the frame. The housing's got a nice radius at the
head tube area, but it's got to make a pretty severe S-turn around the seat
post, whether it turns in front of or behind the post. So I _think_ that's
the problem area. I am considering cutting a longer piece of housing for
this S-turn; it's definitely worth a shot before plonking down for a fancy
reverseable-noodle set of calipers.

It's not a huge problem. The drag isn't that bad. I just like to tweak
things.

Thanks,

Brian Ray

I looked into this for my recumbent. I needed the noodle on the left on the
fork. there are only three brakes that are reversible. avid Ultimate and cane
creek they are both around 80.00 each and the pauls. I got a great deal on some
used pauls and they are killer brakes. very powerful.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Steve Knight said:

I looked into this for my recumbent. I needed the noodle on the left
on the fork. there are only three brakes that are reversible. avid
Ultimate and cane creek they are both around 80.00 each and the
pauls. I got a great deal on some used pauls and they are killer
brakes. very powerful.

Which Cane Creek models are reversible?
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Phil said:

Which Cane Creek models are reversible?
--

The Direct Curve 5's:
http://www.canecreek.com/99.html

Jeff

Quoted message said:

Which Cane Creek models are reversible?

it's their top model let me look it up.
the direct curve 5's http://www.canecreek.com/99.html

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Quoted message said:

The Direct Curve 5's:
http://www.canecreek.com/99.html

I debated on these or the avid's or the pauls. glad I got the pauls they are
great and they are far easier to setup then any other brake.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.