upgrading MTB and some OT

"Bryan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm assuming that I will also need to get a new axle. Anyone know wha the
OLN for an 8spd rear hub is (7spd is 126mm iirc)? Will I need to cold set

the frame,

Quoted message said:

or should I be able to bend it far enough (frame is steel, an Orange
Prestige)?

I het your current hub is 135mm OLN, like any 8/9 speed hub. So you'll need
to remove 5mm of spacers from the non-drive side, and redish the wheel.

(this answers your frame question too)

cheers,
clive

Bryan said:

Anyone know wha the OLN for an 8spd
rear hub is (7spd is 126mm iirc)? Will I need to cold set the frame,
or should I be able to bend it far enough

There is no definitive answer to this but 135mm is most common for 8spd MTB. The actual OLN will obviously depend on how your hub is made up.
An axle length of 145mm is about right. Your current OLN is /probably/ 130mm and your current axle is /probably/ 140mm; if so this would be long enough for 8spd. As long as you have a couple of mm axle protrusion either end, that is sufficient to locate in the dropouts.

Ian

oh, yes, forgot to say "cold-setting" is "bending"

Ian

Bryan said:

Second upgrade may be to convert from 7spd to 8/9spd. Currently the
rear hub is XT. Looking around I seem to have 2 options, build up a
wheel based on a new hub, or get a new 8spd freehub body.

There's a third option, an easier option (assuming a Hyperglide freehub):

Use 8 sprockets from a 9-speed cassette, with 9 speed-spacers.

See http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7 - 8 Of 9 On 7

~PB

quote='Pete Biggs'Bryan said:

Second upgrade may be to convert from 7spd to 8/9spd. Currently the
rear hub is XT. Looking around I seem to have 2 options, build up a
wheel based on a new hub, or get a new 8spd freehub body.

There's a third option, an easier option (assuming a Hyperglide freehub):

Use 8 sprockets from a 9-speed cassette, with 9 speed-spacers.

See http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7 - 8 Of 9 On 7

~PB[/QUOTE]

My cuning plan for using a 8spd cassette is that I have a spare one, so don't need to buy a 9 spd :-)

Bryan

Bryan said:

I'm thinking about upgrading my old MTB. First upgrade wuill be a new
set of V's. I've been looking at Avid SD5 or SD7's. Has anyone go
these, if so what are they like? Some reviews of the SD5's say that
they rust very easily, whilst this isn't a real problem (but why make
MTB kit that rusts?), are the SD7's worth the extra?

Second upgrade may be to convert from 7spd to 8/9spd. Currently the
rear hub is XT. Looking around I seem to have 2 options, build up a
wheel based on a new hub, or get a new 8spd freehub body. The latter
option should take less time and effort, and if I get a hub form ebay
and pinch the freehub body, also cost a lot less. I'm assuming that I
will also need to get a new axle. Anyone know wha the OLN for an 8spd
rear hub is (7spd is 126mm iirc)? Will I need to cold set the frame,
or should I be able to bend it far enough (frame is steel, an Orange
Prestige)?

Now for the OT it I'm going to South Africa for 3 months with work to
Bloemfontein, and goig to take my (hopefully newly upgraded bike)
with me. Has anyone done any cycling in sOuth Africa, what is teh
attitude to cyclists? Also since I have never been ther can anyone
tell me anymore about the place? I particularly need to know how much
the beer is :-). Any help and advie greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Bryan

There's quite an interesting article about cold-setting steel frames here:

http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

Hope this helps

Chris

--
|C|H|R|I|S|@|T|R|I|N|I|T|Y|W|I|L|L|S|.|C|O|M|
Remove the bars to contact me

"Bryan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm thinking about upgrading my old MTB. First upgrade wuill be a

new

Quoted message said:

set of V's. I've been looking at Avid SD5 or SD7's. Has anyone go
these, if so what are they like? Some reviews of the SD5's say that
they rust very easily, whilst this isn't a real problem (but why

make

Quoted message said:

MTB kit that rusts?), are the SD7's worth the extra?

I've got SD7's on one bike and SD3's on another. The SD7's are a lot
nicer, giving much better feel and slightly better stopping power IMO.
The 7's are easier to adjust as well. The variable modulation
available on 5's-upwards levers is a small but worthwhile benefit.
Overall, the more expensive brakes are much more pleasant in use.
Cables are Avid flackjackets in both cases.

I've got a Deore front V on an old hybrid bike, and I would say the
3's are about as good as that - functional but that's about it. The
7's seem to compare well with the Shimano XT's on a friends bike.

The springs on both rust a bit, which is a bit poor. Everything else
is aluminium. The finish on the 7's is better, as is the adjustment
hardware.

--

Regards,

Mark Davies

"Bryan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm thinking about upgrading my old MTB. First upgrade wuill be a new
set of V's. I've been looking at Avid SD5 or SD7's. Has anyone go
these, if so what are they like? Some reviews of the SD5's say that
they rust very easily, whilst this isn't a real problem (but why make
MTB kit that rusts?), are the SD7's worth the extra?

Big question: what's wrong with the old V's? I've hardly ever seen any v's that
can't be made to work decently well.

Quoted message said:

Second upgrade may be to convert from 7spd to 8/9spd. Currently the
rear hub is XT. Looking around I seem to have 2 options, build up a
wheel based on a new hub, or get a new 8spd freehub body. The latter
option should take less time and effort, and if I get a hub form ebay
and pinch the freehub body, also cost a lot less. I'm assuming that I
will also need to get a new axle. Anyone know wha the OLN for an 8spd
rear hub is (7spd is 126mm iirc)? Will I need to cold set the frame,
or should I be able to bend it far enough (frame is steel, an Orange
Prestige)?

Another big question: why is that an upgrde? Are there hills you can't get up
with 7 speeds that you think 9 speed will help?

That said, if you are going to make the change, go to 9 speed, the costs are the
same and the diadvantages are the same, but you do get one extra sprocket.

Quoted message said:

Now for the OT it I'm going to South Africa for 3 months with work to
Bloemfontein, and goig to take my (hopefully newly upgraded bike)
with me. Has anyone done any cycling in sOuth Africa,

Me, I have cycled there quite a bit.

Quoted message said:

what is teh attitude to cyclists?

To summarise:
DIE! DIE! DIE, CYCLIST SCUM! DIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!

But only if you ride on the roads.

Be aware that even driving inside a large car is fairly terrifying. Other
drivers will overtake at speed just before blind curves with 1000-foot dropoffs
on one side. Which side they will pass on is indeterminate.

Quoted message said:

Also since I have never been ther can anyone
tell me anymore about the place? I particularly need to know how much
the beer is :-). Any help and advie greatly appreciated.

Beer is cheap but you will have to develop a taste for lager and pilsener. If
you do the usual painful Brit-CAMRA-type-abroad act and walk around saying "But
it's not a patch on REAL beer etc etc" you will rapidly find yourself drinking
alone.

HTH,
--
"Mango sorbet is clearcut proof that we have progressed beyond the
bare needs of survival and have progressed to the transcendant."
- Marc Goodman in talk.bizarre

Mark South said:

Be aware that even driving inside a large car is fairly terrifying. Other
drivers will overtake at speed just before blind curves with 1000-foot
dropoffs
on one side. Which side they will pass on is indeterminate.

Easy. In the cities they drive on the left. In the country they drive in the
shade. Just like Malta.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Also since I have never been ther can anyone
tell me anymore about the place? I particularly need to know how much
the beer is :-). Any help and advie greatly appreciated.

Beer is cheap but you will have to develop a taste for lager and pilsener. If
you do the usual painful Brit-CAMRA-type-abroad act and walk around saying
"But
it's not a patch on REAL beer etc etc" you will rapidly find yourself drinking
alone.

The stuff from Namibia is quite palatable. Windhoek I think it is.
Alternatively move on to wine. I want at some point ot do the wine route
round Stellenbosch.

...d

On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 13:47:33 +0100, David Martin
<[email hidden]> wrote (more or less):

Quoted message said:

Mark South said:

Be aware that even driving inside a large car is fairly terrifying. Other
drivers will overtake at speed just before blind curves with 1000-foot
dropoffs
on one side. Which side they will pass on is indeterminate.

Easy. In the cities they drive on the left. In the country they drive in the
shade. Just like Malta.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Also since I have never been ther can anyone
tell me anymore about the place? I particularly need to know how much
the beer is :-). Any help and advie greatly appreciated.

Beer is cheap but you will have to develop a taste for lager and pilsener. If
you do the usual painful Brit-CAMRA-type-abroad act and walk around saying
"But
it's not a patch on REAL beer etc etc" you will rapidly find yourself drinking
alone.

The stuff from Namibia is quite palatable. Windhoek I think it is.

Very nice. Although the brewery is about the only place in Namibia
that uses water recycled through Namibia's sewage treatment plant!

Quoted message said:

Alternatively move on to wine. I want at some point ot do the wine route
round Stellenbosch.

..d

--
Cheers,
Euan
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