Upgrading a Raleigh Record Sprint

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by david.poole
I have one of the original Raleigh Record Sprints and want to upgrade it. The problem is that I don't know where to begin.

I like the way that modern racing bikes have their brakes and gears integrated into the handlebars. Is it possible to do this on such an old bike?

What is involved and what is the ball park cost.

A bike shop suggested that I would need a new back wheel and gear set as a starting point because the old gears had a non standard threading, whatever that meant.

I should be grateful for any advice you could give.

Thanks

You would need make sure the frame spacing (rear dropout) would accomodate a wider rear axle. Assuming it will, it shouldn't be too much of a problem beyond finding and paying for the parts.

This link might help: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

I ride two old Raleighs, a 74 International and a 78 Competition GS. I prefer to stick to the original gearing and drive train, but use bar-end (barcon) shifters.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by david.poole
I have one of the original Raleigh Record Sprints and want to upgrade it. The problem is that I don't know where to begin.

I like the way that modern racing bikes have their brakes and gears integrated into the handlebars. Is it possible to do this on such an old bike?

What is involved and what is the ball park cost.

A bike shop suggested that I would need a new back wheel and gear set as a starting point because the old gears had a non standard threading, whatever that meant.

I should be grateful for any advice you could give.

Thanks

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Rabid Koala
You would need make sure the frame spacing (rear dropout) would accomodate a wider rear axle.

It's the hub that's wider, and steel frames can be easily spread,but cracking of the chrome is a possibility if the stays are plated.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by boudreaux
It's the hub that's wider, and steel frames can be easily spread,but cracking of the chrome is a possibility if the stays are plated.

Excellent point!

I did do this on my Competition with no ill effect, but that chrome on the rear chainstays is too good looking to mess up...

I only know Raleigh Roadsters and "sports" but I imagine the Raleigh threading could be an issue if it is 26 tpi instead of 24. This makes changing bbs a bit more difficult.

Hello,
maybe it's not suitable, but my problem is how to DOWNGRADE my Raleigh Record Sprint with "Reynolds 501" tubing (says Sheldon Brown, who opened my eyes a little bit); I got it a few days ago and tried to find out about the original state of that bike.
There are gold colored brakes, mounts, front emblem , a gold colored handlebar with oak leaves etc. on it, and I don't know what's original and what's not; I don't even have an idea how to find out the "Year of birth" of it.
Does anyone know or can give me an advice ?
Very grateful for any advice !
Thanks and cheers from Germany
Thomas😕

tautschbach said:

Hello,
maybe it's not suitable, but my problem is how to DOWNGRADE my Raleigh Record Sprint with "Reynolds 501" tubing (says Sheldon Brown, who opened my eyes a little bit); I got it a few days ago and tried to find out about the original state of that bike.
There are gold colored brakes, mounts, front emblem , a gold colored handlebar with oak leaves etc. on it, and I don't know what's original and what's not; I don't even have an idea how to find out the "Year of birth" of it.
Does anyone know or can give me an advice ?
Very grateful for any advice !
Thanks and cheers from Germany
Thomas😕

Mine is 100% original and a Mk1 and yes it had gold brake cables, brakes, oak leaves, front emblem etc and a chain that just didn't rust.

The Mk1 had Shimano rear mech but the Mk2 was a cheaper bike and had some other rear mech. The front mech was a Stachs something or other.

I would love to upgrade the gears and put STI levers on it but the rear cassette has an unusual thread and changing would require throwing away a perfectly good wheel.

I had mine as a 16th birthday present so it is 22 years old. At the time it cost £200 so working on the principle that money halves its value every 10 years that makes the nearest equivalent today an £800 bike.

I've put some mid-range SPD pedals on mine and changed the seat post and saddle and, even though it is 22 years old it is a very fast bike.