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Upgrading a mid-80s Dawes to Indexed

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Cycling Equipment
Published
25 August 2006
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26 August 2006
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ethan
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  1. Hi,

    I'm thinking of purchasing a used, mid-80s Dawes Galaxy in great
    condition. I'll probably want to upgrade to rear deraileur to indexed
    shifting at some point and I'm curious how much I should budget for
    this. I'd expect to need to adjust the dropout spacing, but will I
    need to use a claw or add any brazed-on eyelets or the like? That might
    be a bit too much.

    Anyone have experiencing upgrading one of these bikes? Is it possible
    to use most modern parts or are there measurement issues (french vs.
    standard, etc) that would prevent me from using shimano components and
    such?

    Thanks.

    Ethan

  2. ethan said:

    Hi,

    I'm thinking of purchasing a used, mid-80s Dawes Galaxy in great
    condition. I'll probably want to upgrade to rear deraileur to indexed
    shifting at some point and I'm curious how much I should budget for
    this. I'd expect to need to adjust the dropout spacing, but will I
    need to use a claw or add any brazed-on eyelets or the like? That might
    be a bit too much.

    Anyone have experiencing upgrading one of these bikes? Is it possible
    to use most modern parts or are there measurement issues (french vs.
    standard, etc) that would prevent me from using shimano components and
    such?

    Only issue is cost. I'd start by just swapping out the freewheel and
    chain for the modern hyperglide stuff. No spreading necessary, and
    it'll shift marvelously compared to the old simple "twist-tooth"
    design.

    If you want to blow the bank with a new rear wheel/freehub, cassette,
    shifters/brifters, and so on, yeah, it'll work just fine.

    TBH, though, a six speed freewheel that's a 14-28 is plenty for most
    recreational riding, as all you gain with most 8spd or 9spd cassettes
    are a couple smaller cogs that are rarely useful.

    If you want indexing with the old wheel/new freewheel, you can just
    search around a bit for some 6 spd Shimano SIS downtube or barend
    shifters. I personally wouldn't bother.

  3. I bought a mid-80s Galaxy frame a while back and have built it up into
    a nice bike. You're getting a hand made Reynolds 531ST frame with a
    very long wheel base. It's wonderful to ride, very sure-footed.
    Modernisation was fairly straight forward, but there are some quirks.

    To go to 9 speed you will need a 9-speed cassette, which will require a
    suitable hub, so you will need new wheels. You will need 9-speed
    shifters and a narrow chain. As far as I know most Shimano mechs can
    handle 9-speed even if they were designed for 7 or 8.

    It has been my intention to go to 9-speed but I am still using some
    cheap wheels off my old bike so I am limited to 7-speed for now.
    Because of this the current set-up is an odd mix:

    Old Stuff:
    Cheap alloy wheels
    7 speed freewheel 13-24
    Nexave rear mech (found in a street market for next to nothing, not
    exactly bike-bling but very effective)

    New Stuff:
    Stronglight Impact chainset 24-36-48 (same as a Sugino XD)
    LX front mech (handles the 24 tooth front difference just fine)
    DuraAce bar end shifters (from eBay), 9 speed but in friction mode
    right now.

    The next step might be to go to 9 speed. The Nexave mech is nominally 7
    or 8 speed, but should handle 9 speed OK, it has the same spacing. The
    trouble is that [1] the gears I have cover my needs and I'm not sure
    that I actually need any more and [2] the cheap wheels do the job, and
    it's not clear that I can justify a new rear wheel just to take a 9
    speed cassette. I'm waiting until the spokes break or something, so
    that I have an excuse. Could be a long wait.

    As for measurement issues:

    [1] All the threads are standard English. No problems with the headset
    (I used a Stronglight A9) or the bottom bracket (more Stronglight).

    [2] The rear drop out spacing was 126mm, which I have opened out to
    130mm.

    [3] The brake bosses are about 12mm too low for modern cantilevers on
    700C wheels. At first I wondered if it had been set up for strange
    wheels but I have been told that many touring bikes from the mid-80s
    use an odd, long reach cantilever made by DiaComp. They are
    unobtainable now and I ended up using Onza HO brakes which can be
    modified to reach. The only other alternative would be to have the
    bosses moved by a frame builder.

    - Simon

  4. ethan said:


    I'm thinking of purchasing a used, mid-80s Dawes Galaxy in great
    condition. I'll probably want to upgrade to rear deraileur to indexed
    shifting at some point and I'm curious how much I should budget for
    this.

    The biggest variable would be what type and model shifters you choose.
    Most expensive would be Dura Ace STI or Record Ergo. Next would be
    lower level STI/Ergo. Then bar end shifters. Least expensive would be
    down tube indexed shifters.

    Aside from that, the biggest expense would be a new rear wheel. You'll
    also need a new chain and cassette, and probably front and rear
    deraileurs.

    See:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7

    Quoted message said:

    I'd expect to need to adjust the dropout spacing, but will I
    need to use a claw or add any brazed-on eyelets or the like? That might
    be a bit too much.


    Most of the better frames of the '80s had threaded derailleur hangers
    on the right dropout. I'd be surprised if yours didn't.

    Quoted message said:


    Anyone have experiencing upgrading one of these bikes? Is it possible
    to use most modern parts or are there measurement issues (french vs.
    standard, etc) that would prevent me from using shimano components and
    such?


    I assume your Dawes has all standard British thread so there shouldn't
    be a problem. If you decide to replace the brakes, check the reach.

    Art Harris

  5. ethan said:

    Hi,

    I'm thinking of purchasing a used, mid-80s Dawes Galaxy in great
    condition. I'll probably want to upgrade to rear deraileur to indexed
    shifting at some point and I'm curious how much I should budget for
    this. I'd expect to need to adjust the dropout spacing, but will I
    need to use a claw or add any brazed-on eyelets or the like? That
    might be a bit too much.

    Anyone have experiencing upgrading one of these bikes? Is it possible
    to use most modern parts or are there measurement issues (french vs.
    standard, etc) that would prevent me from using shimano components and
    such?

    Beyond what the other posters have said, two other things to watch:

    Frame spacing. It might be built to 126mm rather than the current 130mm. Not
    a problem, you just need to ease the rear forks outwards when inserting a
    modern 130mm wheel. After a few tries you get the hang of it.
    The frame will easily spring that far; I've been riding a very similar
    specification frame for 16 years and springing in/out a 130mm axle without
    any ill effects.

    Wheel size. Possibly old enough to be built around a 27inch (ISO 630) wheel,
    rather than the current 700c (ISO 622). That, in turn, might mean the
    brakes won't reach a 700c wheel. Shouldn't be a killer on any upgrade, but
    watch for it.

    It should be British for bottom bracket, and metric elsewhere. Should be
    possible to fit modern stuff if that is your aim.
    I'd probably only go to bar-ends (or downtube shifters if your reach is OK)
    and 8-speed (rather than STI and 9/10 speed), with a triple front, to be in
    keeping with the "ultra reliable" nature of the original. With 8 speed you
    can probably keep the original front shift mechanism.

    - Nigel

    --
    Nigel Cliffe,
    Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

  6. Thanks to you all for the excelent information. It was exactly what I
    wanted and I decided that I wanted to pick up the bike. Unfortunately I
    waited too long and it was already gone!

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