Upgrade to PowerTap SL

m2kopp said:

I have been using an original PowerTap for three years now. After two trips to Saris for repair it has worked reliably AS LONG AS IT IS DRY---which is a problem here in the Pacific NW.

I have read previous post about the PowerTap SL and was curious if they have solved their problems AND users actual experience with it in wet conditions.

Thanks.

I have been riding an SL since the end of May. It doesn't rain enough here to give it a good test in wet conditions, but my understanding is that they tested it at Saris by having employees ride it around their parking lot while other employees sprayed water hoses directly at the hubs. Maybe not very scientific, but I think they solved the waterproofing problem. I'm not aware of any problems with the hubs, but the receivers can lose the hub transmission signal intermittently when freewheeling. Saris doesn't think it is a design issue, so their approach to receiver problems is to just send you a replacement at no charge. Some people have fixed it by putting a piece of foam between the receiver and the seat stay when they strap it on. That seems to solve the dropped transmission signal problem.

m2kopp said:

I have been using an original PowerTap for three years now. After two trips to Saris for repair it has worked reliably AS LONG AS IT IS DRY---which is a problem here in the Pacific NW.

I have read previous post about the PowerTap SL and was curious if they have solved their problems AND users actual experience with it in wet conditions.

Thanks.

By original do you mean Tune made hub? Those are guaranteed to not work when it's wet outside. I gave one to a junior and his works fine, when he gets it wet, his father just lets it air dry and then it starts working again.

If you just upgraded to just the Graber basic hub you would get rid of problems riding in the wet and wouldn't require the huge cash outlay that the SL requires (compared to a used waterproof hub on EBay). Not sure what you are looking for in an upgrade other than the waterproof aspect.

m2kopp said:

I have been using an original PowerTap for three years now. After two trips to Saris for repair it has worked reliably AS LONG AS IT IS DRY---which is a problem here in the Pacific NW.

I have read previous post about the PowerTap SL and was curious if they have solved their problems AND users actual experience with it in wet conditions.

Thanks.

Multipart response. First, I've used my SL in drenching downpours in NJ recently, and it has worked perfectly. So my personal experience is good, and when I spoke with Saris (when my SL went through the "repair" program due to the initial failures) they also told me about the garden hose testing that RD mentions. The improved water resistance comes from two factors: first the electronics are placed further inside the hub, since the transmission is through the carbon fiber plates in the hub, not through the sides of the hub; secondly, they improved the o-ring seals during the SL repair program. Last, if my returned SL is a good example, Saris has solved the initial quality control problems with the SL.

I have also ridden with my SL in a soaking rain. Worked fine until the contacts with the computer head/mount became wet, then it quit reading watts/speed. I stopped and dried the contacts and it picked right back up. After the ride I pulled the hub cap just to check it out -- it was completely dry. No big deal. In the 19 years that I've been cycling, I have had countless other cycle computers do this same thing in nasty rain.

I also experienced the mysterious signal drop that seems to be caused by the freehub pawls. It drove me nuts for nearly 2 weeks and I was really beginning to think that if I wanted to explore power training that I would need to bite the $2500+ bullet called SRM. After talking to the Sarris rep. I was told that it may be vibration interference from the freehub pawls. A small piece of foam between the hub receiver and the frame solved the problem. Saris rep. also told me that they are working on a vibration proof receiver unit.

Given the customer support, all in all, I am pleased with the product.

JIM WV said:

I have also ridden with my SL in a soaking rain. Worked fine until the contacts with the computer head/mount became wet, then it quit reading watts/speed. I stopped and dried the contacts and it picked right back up. After the ride I pulled the hub cap just to check it out -- it was completely dry. No big deal. In the 19 years that I've been cycling, I have had countless other cycle computers do this same thing in nasty rain.

I wonder if a little dielectric grease from the autoparts store smeared on the contacts would solve the problem?

DeanC said:

I wonder if a little dielectric grease from the autoparts store smeared on the contacts would solve the problem?

It probably would, but then you'd have grease on the underside of your head computer which may make a mess when you take it inside to download the data to a PC. That may or may not be a problem, depending on the user.

It's a small issue either way, and it all depends on how much you ride in the rain and how much you want to go through to see the readout when it's wet.

frenchyge said:

It probably would, but then you'd have grease on the underside of your head computer which may make a mess when you take it inside to download the data to a PC. That may or may not be a problem, depending on the user.

I just got mine this weekend and it's going to be the rainy season soon here in SFO, so maybe I'll give it a try and report back.

DeanC said:

I just got mine this weekend and it's going to be the rainy season soon here in SFO, so maybe I'll give it a try and report back.

I've seen posts where people put sandwich baggies over the computer to keep it 'dry enough'. That may be worth a try as well. Good luck.

While you SL users are here, I wanted to ask a question. Are the freehub splines the same as the Pro's in that on the Pro they don't extend to the end of the freehub. I use an American Classic 10speed cassette and the top cog doesn't fully engage the splines.

Thanks and sorry for the topic change, Jimmy

Rode all summer, rain and shine, had it on top of my car in torrential downpours, and the SL has been flawless. No complaints here!

m2kopp said:

I have been using an original PowerTap for three years now. After two trips to Saris for repair it has worked reliably AS LONG AS IT IS DRY---which is a problem here in the Pacific NW.

I have read previous post about the PowerTap SL and was curious if they have solved their problems AND users actual experience with it in wet conditions.

Thanks.

jws said:

While you SL users are here, I wanted to ask a question. Are the freehub splines the same as the Pro's in that on the Pro they don't extend to the end of the freehub. I use an American Classic 10speed cassette and the top cog doesn't fully engage the splines.

Thanks and sorry for the topic change, Jimmy

If I understand what you are asking correctly, I would say that the splines on the freehub extend to the end of the freehub and don't stop short. I use a Wheels Manufacturing conversion 10 speed cassette and it fits just fine, the small cog engages tight -- and I even need to space it out a bit from the spokes so that the rivets on the large cog carrier won't contact the spokes.

Jimmy, I recall reading somewhere that the AC cassette won't work on Powertap hubs, along with some other brands as well, because the small cog won't engage. I could be wrong, just going from memory but you may want to check it out.

I thought the PT SL was available (or will be) with a Campy freehub body.

Squint said:

I thought the PT SL was available (or will be) with a Campy freehub body.

It is! My Campy cassette fitted straight on. I thought the previous posters were talking about a PT Pro hub, which is only Shimano splined

Ric

JIM WV said:

If I understand what you are asking correctly, I would say that the splines on the freehub extend to the end of the freehub and don't stop short. I use a Wheels Manufacturing conversion 10 speed cassette and it fits just fine, the small cog engages tight -- and I even need to space it out a bit from the spokes so that the rivets on the large cog carrier won't contact the spokes.

Jimmy, I recall reading somewhere that the AC cassette won't work on Powertap hubs, along with some other brands as well, because the small cog won't engage. I could be wrong, just going from memory but you may want to check it out.

Thanks, Jim. I use the AC cassette for training only and remember not to use the 12. The Dura-Ace cassette engages well and I use it to race.

When I next change the cone on the PT hub, I'm going to try to replace the freehub with a D-A or Ultegra freehub.