Recumbent bicycles · Public discussion

Upgrade a Burley for speed?

Started by Gene Cosloy · · Last activity · 7 posts · 872 views

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Recumbent bicycles
Published
30 August 2003
Last activity
31 August 2003
Original author
Gene Cosloy
Posts
7
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
872
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–7 of 7
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. I ride a Burley Taiko stock in the SWB mode. I love the ride , the way it handles, the BB height
    being similar to seat height, in short everything about the bike save weight and speed. I'm 5'10",
    175lbs, 64 and ride approx 100 miles per week commuting and short tours. I also average around 12 to
    13 miles per hour and would like to move another 2 miles per faster. I thought of getting a lighter
    seat (perhaps rans seat base) lighter wheels and smaller diameter and faster rubber, and finally
    maybe a fairing. The other thought was leave the Burley well enough alone, it's great for what it is
    and does and buy another bike for lightness and speed. Given all that I've thought of a Haluzak
    Hybrid Race, or Barcroft Dakota. Can anyone comment generally on my problem and make specific
    recommendations? I'd be very grateful before spending big bucks on either solution. And
    puleeze----no comments about the engine----don't even go there-----I yam what I yam, and I like it
    like dat!! Seriously, though with mild arthritis in both hip joints, a couple of knees with soft
    cartilege, I really need to spin a lot and can't really hammer the cranks anymore even if my thighs
    were tree trunks.

    Gene Cosloy

  2. I am curious as to the type of riding you do. Is it mostly open road and trails, or is a lot of it
    in town with lots of stop and go situations?

    I commute in town and actually stop at intersections, red lights, and crosswalks for pedestrians.
    These three items will greatly impact your overall speed. My average speed in town is usually around
    12 mph (we also have a fair number of hills). I know a lot of people that have higher averages than
    mine in town. They ignore stop signs, red lights, and pedestrians. I have ridden road bikes,
    mountain bikes, and recumbents in this environment and my speed in town is still almost identical on
    any of the bikes. If you ride in a situation like mine (in town) I don't know that changing bikes or
    configurations will yield higher average speeds.

    I have a 20 mile ride in the country that is mostly flat. On this ride I usually average in the high
    teens. There are stretches where one of the club members and I ride that we can hang in the low 20's
    for a couple of miles. I ride a Vision R-50 with about and extra 10 pounds of stuff strapped on. On
    top of that I'm 5'11", 51, and about 225lbs. The location of your riding is probably one of the
    biggest single factors of your average speed.

    If you are happy with who you are and how you ride, I would just keep on being you. If it is just
    killing you I would try to rent or borrow a bike in the configuration that you are thinking of. Try
    it in under your typical conditions and see if it is what you hoped it would be.

    I urge caution in your musings and pondering. To much time spent contemplating various bents and
    configurations will inevitably lower your resistance to "bentitis". A somewhat serious malady that
    usually is accompanied by "cashitis poor flowous" and "garagis stuffeditis". One of the few known
    cures for this is a double century on a "df" in the rain. This has been known to achieve miraculous
    cures of "bentitis". 🙂

    William Higley, Sr. Vision R-50 RANS Rocket

    "Gene Cosloy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I ride a Burley Taiko stock in the SWB mode. I love the ride , the way it handles, the BB height
    being similar to seat height, in short everything about the bike save weight and speed. I'm 5'10",
    175lbs, 64 and ride approx 100 miles per week commuting and short tours. I also average around 12
    to 13 miles per hour and would like to move another 2 miles per faster. I thought of getting a
    lighter seat (perhaps rans seat base) lighter wheels and smaller diameter and faster rubber, and
    finally maybe a fairing. The other thought was leave the Burley well enough alone, it's great for
    what it is and does and buy another bike for lightness and speed. Given all that I've thought of a
    Haluzak Hybrid Race, or Barcroft Dakota. Can anyone comment generally on my problem and make
    specific recommendations? I'd be very grateful before spending big bucks on either solution. And
    puleeze----no comments about the engine----don't even go there-----I yam what I yam, and I like it
    like dat!! Seriously, though with mild arthritis in both hip joints, a couple of knees with soft
    cartilege, I really need to spin a lot and can't really hammer the cranks anymore even if my
    thighs were tree trunks.

    Gene Cosloy

  3. Gene, The way to gain speed would be a set of lighter wheels with Schwalbe Stelvio tires. Keep the
    stock set for touring and such. If you want to keep a wider tire on the front, go with the Tioga
    Comp Pool slick. You will be amazed on what a set of racing wheels/tires will do for you. If you are
    really, really concerned about weight, put one of those 1.5 pound carbon fiber seats on the Burley.
    How much speed will that gain you? About .1 MPH speed increase if you are lucky so I would not be
    concerned with the seat. Personally, I have found that correct gearing helps boost the speed
    increase. My 26-42-45T crank coupled with an 11-34T eight-speed Mega-range works well for me. Did
    the HH100 last weekend and used the half-step for dialing in the speed VS wind and terrain. Good
    luck in whatever you plan to do, it is all about the fun and exercise after all.

    John H N TX

  4. Gene, before you get a high BB bike, make darn sure it's not going to bother your hips, legs etc. It
    does mine. The Taiko is VERY nice bike, it can be as fast as a V-rex, and faster than a Hybrid race.
    Have you removed the entire "guts" of the front boom, including cups? that weighs approx 4-5 lbs.
    quite a bit of front weight. Are you using speed struts on the seat? While they weight slightly,
    they provide about 1-1.5 mph of efficiency for a firmer platform to push against. The RANS seat base
    while a little more cushy, isn't more efficient than the Corbin on there now. If you replace the
    seat, I'd do a Swanson hardshell from Poweroncycling, Mark probably knows or can adapt the base to
    fit the burley. Some Tharacian wheels will make the bike a little faster also, but personally, i'd
    stick with the stock on there now, they are pretty nice as is. Stick with what you got, it's a good
    bike, and no I don't own one!

    Gene Cosloy said:

    I ride a Burley Taiko stock in the SWB mode. I love the ride , the way it handles, the BB height
    being similar to seat height, in short everything about the bike save weight and speed. I'm 5'10",
    175lbs, 64 and ride approx 100 miles per week commuting and short tours. I also average around 12
    to 13 miles per hour and would like to move another 2 miles per faster. I thought of getting a
    lighter seat (perhaps rans seat base) lighter wheels and smaller diameter and faster rubber, and
    finally maybe a fairing. The other thought was leave the Burley well enough alone, it's great for
    what it is and does and buy another bike for lightness and speed. Given all that I've thought of a
    Haluzak Hybrid Race, or Barcroft Dakota. Can anyone comment generally on my problem and make
    specific recommendations? I'd be very grateful before spending big bucks on either solution. And
    puleeze----no comments about the engine----don't even go there-----I yam what I yam, and I like it
    like dat!! Seriously, though with mild arthritis in both hip joints, a couple of knees with soft
    cartilege, I really need to spin a lot and can't really hammer the cranks anymore even if my
    thighs were tree trunks.

    Gene Cosloy

  5. "Gene Cosloy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I ride a Burley Taiko stock in the SWB mode. I love the ride , the way it handles, the BB height
    being similar to seat height, in short everything about the bike save weight and speed. I'm 5'10",
    175lbs, 64 and ride approx 100 miles per week commuting and short tours. I also average around 12
    to 13 miles per hour and would like to move another 2 miles per faster. I thought of getting a
    lighter seat (perhaps rans seat base) lighter wheels and smaller diameter and faster rubber, and
    finally maybe a fairing. The other thought was leave the Burley well enough alone, it's great for
    what it is and does and buy another bike for lightness and speed. Given all that I've thought of a
    Haluzak Hybrid Race, or Barcroft Dakota. Can anyone comment generally on my problem and make
    specific recommendations? I'd be very grateful before spending big bucks on either solution. And
    puleeze----no comments about the engine----don't even go there-----I yam what I yam, and I like it
    like dat!! Seriously, though with mild arthritis in both hip joints, a couple of knees with soft
    cartilege, I really need to spin a lot and can't really hammer the cranks anymore even if my
    thighs were tree trunks.

    Gene Cosloy

    I don't think you will get more speed out of the Taiko than that. If you want a fast bike buy one
    designed to do it.

  6. "William Higley, Sr." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I am curious as to the type of riding you do. Is it mostly open road and trails, or is a lot of it
    in town with lots of stop and go situations?

    MY RIDE IS MOSTLY SUBURBAN AND URBAN WITH STOPS AND TRAFFIC LIGHTS.While I state between 12-13 m/h
    as average thats right off the computer at the end of the ride. I have some downhills where I get
    up to 32 and some uphills which I take from 9 to as low as 6. Occassionally I'll get an extended
    level stretch where I can cruise from 16 to 20 but at the end of the day the average comes down to
    12-13. Gene

    Quoted message said:


    I commute in town and actually stop at intersections, red lights, and crosswalks for pedestrians.
    These three items will greatly impact your overall speed. My average speed in town is usually
    around 12 mph (we also have a fair number of hills). I know a lot of people that have higher
    averages than mine in town. They ignore stop signs, red lights, and pedestrians. I have ridden
    road bikes, mountain bikes, and recumbents in this environment and my speed in town is still
    almost identical on any of the bikes. If you ride in a situation like mine (in town) I don't know
    that changing bikes or configurations will yield higher average speeds.

    I have a 20 mile ride in the country that is mostly flat. On this ride I usually average in the
    high teens. There are stretches where one of the club members and I ride that we can hang in the
    low 20's for a couple of miles. I ride a Vision R-50 with about and extra 10 pounds of stuff
    strapped on. On top of that I'm 5'11", 51, and about 225lbs. The location of your riding is
    probably one of the biggest single factors of your average speed.

    If you are happy with who you are and how you ride, I would just keep on being you. If it is just
    killing you I would try to rent or borrow a bike in the configuration that you are thinking of.
    Try it in under your typical conditions and see if it is what you hoped it would be.

    I urge caution in your musings and pondering. To much time spent contemplating various bents and
    configurations will inevitably lower your resistance to "bentitis". A somewhat serious malady that
    usually is accompanied by "cashitis poor flowous" and "garagis stuffeditis". One of the few known
    cures for this is a double century on a "df" in the rain. This has been known to achieve
    miraculous cures of "bentitis". 🙂

    William Higley, Sr. Vision R-50 RANS Rocket

    "Gene Cosloy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I ride a Burley Taiko stock in the SWB mode. I love the ride , the way it handles, the BB height
    being similar to seat height, in short everything about the bike save weight and speed. I'm
    5'10", 175lbs, 64 and ride approx 100 miles per week commuting and short tours. I also average
    around 12 to 13 miles per hour and would like to move another 2 miles per faster. I thought of
    getting a lighter seat (perhaps rans seat base) lighter wheels and smaller diameter and faster
    rubber, and finally maybe a fairing. The other thought was leave the Burley well enough alone,
    it's great for what it is and does and buy another bike for lightness and speed. Given all that
    I've thought of a Haluzak Hybrid Race, or Barcroft Dakota. Can anyone comment generally on my
    problem and make specific recommendations? I'd be very grateful before spending big bucks on
    either solution. And puleeze----no comments about the engine----don't even go there-----I yam
    what I yam, and I like it like dat!! Seriously, though with mild arthritis in both hip joints, a
    couple of knees with soft cartilege, I really need to spin a lot and can't really hammer the
    cranks anymore even if my thighs were tree trunks.

    Gene Cosloy

  7. John has really got the answer here. You can have two bikes in one if you're willing to take the
    time to change over. Leave the Burley stock (well maybe add the seat struts - a must in my opinion)
    and use it for cruise and tours. Find some used aero type light weight wheels and Stelvios for the
    speedy times. Then add the fairing. The fairing alone will give you a couple of MPH once you're up
    to speed. The light, aero wheels will allow you to get up to speed quicker. If you like the feel of
    the Burley why sacrifice that? Exploit what you have.

    P.S.I put a fairing on my HepCat and did a metric century ride. Once you go faired you'll never be
    the same. My "speedy" wheels (stock aeros from a Baron Optima) will be here Tuesday. I already
    have the Stelvios and tubes (from Hostel Shoppe). The plan: one bike with two configurations.

    Lon

    BentHeadSWB said:

    Gene, The way to gain speed would be a set of lighter wheels with Schwalbe Stelvio tires. Keep the
    stock set for touring and such. If you want to keep a wider tire on the front, go with the Tioga
    Comp Pool slick. You will be amazed on what a set of racing wheels/tires will do for you. If you
    are really, really concerned about weight, put one of those 1.5 pound carbon fiber seats on the
    Burley. How much speed will that gain you? About .1 MPH speed increase if you are lucky so I would
    not be concerned with the seat. Personally, I have found that correct gearing helps boost the
    speed increase. My 26-42-45T crank coupled with an 11-34T eight-speed Mega-range works well for
    me. Did the HH100 last weekend and used the half-step for dialing in the speed VS wind and
    terrain. Good luck in whatever you plan to do, it is all about the fun and exercise after all.

    John H N TX

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.