I am rebuilding my rear wheel re-using the Velocity Aerohead OC rim. The rim is only a few months old and has not been abused. I am rebuilding from 28H 3 cross to 28H 2 cross. I just started tensioning the spokes. I have noticed that on the original build and on this build that there is a section of the rim that seems out of true because I have to tighten the spokes more on one side in this area to get it staight even with the spokes slack on the opposing side. This leads me to beleive this rim was not straight when it was new, but it is not obvious by looking at it or laying it on a flat surface. I generally have not had this problem with other wheels I have built. Is this a common problem for new rims to not be straight?
I am rebuilding my rear wheel re-using the Velocity Aerohead OC rim. The rim is only a few months old and has not been abused. I am rebuilding from 28H 3 cross to 28H 2 cross. I just started tensioning the spokes. I have noticed that on the original build and on this build that there is a section of the rim that seems out of true because I have to tighten the spokes more on one side in this area to get it staight even with the spokes slack on the opposing side. This leads me to beleive this rim was not straight when it was new, but it is not obvious by looking at it or laying it on a flat surface. I generally have not had this problem with other wheels I have built. Is this a common problem for new rims to not be straight?
Joel
What you describe is pretty typical of rims that have lateral (potato-chip-shaped) deformation, but not being able to see it upon careful inspection when unlaced is weird, and it being like this when new is even weirder. You could de-tension the whole thing and lay a new rim you know to be true against it to see if it's deformed (you have to be careful that the wheel is adequately de-tensioned for this to work). Also, it's possible that what you're encountering is just typical, or worse-than-typical, tension disparities at the seam or other places.
I am rebuilding my rear wheel re-using the Velocity Aerohead OC rim. The rim is only a few months old and has not been abused. I am rebuilding from 28H 3 cross to 28H 2 cross. I just started tensioning the spokes. I have noticed that on the original build and on this build that there is a section of the rim that seems out of true because I have to tighten the spokes more on one side in this area to get it staight even with the spokes slack on the opposing side. This leads me to beleive this rim was not straight when it was new, but it is not obvious by looking at it or laying it on a flat surface. I generally have not had this problem with other wheels I have built. Is this a common problem for new rims to not be straight?
Joel
Well, the rim is not 'new'. Riding a poorly tensioned wheel can result in deformation, eben on one ride. BTW-WOE, 2 cross vs 3 cross??
The rim was new when I first built the wheel a few months ago and I had the same exact problem. I have no reason to beleive the wheel was poorly tensioned. Yes, the tension was uneven in some spots but only to compensate for the rim problem. I was breaking spokes with the 28H 3 cross due to the large angle where the spokes enter the nipples. That is why I switched to 2 cross. The spoke alignment is much better now.
Joel
Qui si parla Campagnolo said:
Joel said:
I am rebuilding my rear wheel re-using the Velocity Aerohead OC rim. The rim is only a few months old and has not been abused. I am rebuilding from 28H 3 cross to 28H 2 cross. I just started tensioning the spokes. I have noticed that on the original build and on this build that there is a section of the rim that seems out of true because I have to tighten the spokes more on one side in this area to get it staight even with the spokes slack on the opposing side. This leads me to beleive this rim was not straight when it was new, but it is not obvious by looking at it or laying it on a flat surface. I generally have not had this problem with other wheels I have built. Is this a common problem for new rims to not be straight?
Joel
Well, the rim is not 'new'. Riding a poorly tensioned wheel can result in deformation, eben on one ride. BTW-WOE, 2 cross vs 3 cross??
The rim was new when I first built the wheel a few months ago and I had the same exact problem. I have no reason to beleive the wheel was poorly tensioned. Yes, the tension was uneven in some spots but only to compensate for the rim problem. I was breaking spokes with the 28H 3 cross due to the large angle where the spokes enter the nipples. That is why I switched to 2 cross. The spoke alignment is much better now.
Joel
What you describe happens when you use the Velocity OC rim and have not gotten which holes are high/low or right/left. The hole on a Velocity rim is drilled on an angle. When viewed from outside the rim, the hole that appear high is low. If you put your head where the hub would be, it is easier to tell which holes are high/low. With the hub side down, the first hole counter clockwise of the valve stem hole, is a high hole. It's identical to Mavic Open rims.
Yes, I have been through this and I got the holes correct. I think the spoke breakage problem may be due to small holes in the Velocity rim and large diameter DT nipples, so there is no play to allow the nipple to follow the spoke angle. I was really suprised when I started breaking spokes because I did not have this problem with the non OC rim and expected the wheel to be more durable. Anyway I think 2 cross is better for this configuration.
Joel
Quoted message said:
What you describe happens when you use the Velocity OC rim and have not gotten which holes are high/low or right/left. The hole on a Velocity rim is drilled on an angle. When viewed from outside the rim, the hole that appear high is low. If you put your head where the hub would be, it is easier to tell which holes are high/low. With the hub side down, the first hole counter clockwise of the valve stem hole, is a high hole. It's identical to Mavic Open rims.
