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UDC Aifoil wheelset

Started by harper · · Last activity · 7 posts · 239 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
22 May 2005
Last activity
24 May 2005
Original author
harper
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  1. I received an Airfoil wheelset from unicycle.com on Friday, 20 May 2005.
    Since it was supposed to be delivered 19 March 2005 and March and May
    both start with "Ma" I figure it was only a day late.

    This wheelset was built up with 12 gauge spokes by John Kovachi and is
    not to be confused with the super-elegant, super-strong Dave Stockton
    wheel laced with 14 gauge SS spokes. I had the 100mm wide CroMoly axle
    included as part of the wheelset.

    It came with cranks attached, which I didn't expect, so that may be a
    plus if I didn't pay for them. It had rim tape installed which I covered
    with vinyl electrical tape to make it slippery. I have had a new tire
    ready for this rim for almost a year.

    I installed the tube and tire dry (using no lubricants) but used two
    plastic tire irons in the process. I was hoping to do it by hand only
    but I'm a sissy so resorted to tools. When inflating, I had trouble
    getting the bead to center on the rim but several pressure cycles slowly
    centered the tire on the rim.

    I spread the frame forks slowly with one wrapped in cloth and lightly
    clamped and in a vice and pulled the other fork. I wanted to just fit
    over the axle and when forced onto the bearings have the forks tend to
    push the bearings inward to avoid bearing drift. This is probably a
    fantasy because sitting on the saddle probably splays the forks out
    anyway.

    When I attached the bearing clamps I rotated the wheel and heard a
    slight but distinct scraping every revolution. The wheel was well trued
    and turned nicely in the old frame. I watched the assembly carefully
    when I located the position in which the scrape and drag occurred and
    found that the spokes protruded far enough to occassionally rub the old,
    original Coker frame just above the hub and the bearing clamps.

    My first instinct was to use a rattail file to file away 0.050" (1.25mm)
    right at the points on the frame where the spokes rubbed. I then
    realized this would remove the chrome plating in this region and subject
    the frame to rust at those two spots. So, like any rational person, I
    went to bed.

    Today I attended a funeral and had time to think of other options as
    well as dead people. I decided to put a cylindrical dimple in the frame
    at the two spoke contact points. I would back the outside of the fork
    being dimpled with wood to conform to the irregular fork shape under
    pressure and distribute the force on that side. I would create the
    dimple with a steel or brass round of about 0.5" diameter placed at the
    point at which the spokes scraped the inside of the frame.

    I measured the frame thickness of the oval tubing at the point of
    interest to be 0.650" (16.25mm) . I measured the vice travel per handle
    revolution to be 0.100" (2.5mm) and my goal was to put a 0.100" dimple
    on each inner side. I set up the wood, steel round, and fork in the
    vice. I tightened the assembly and put on the squeeze and, voila, there
    was a cylindrical dimple along the inner fork at the scrape point and
    the thickness measured 0.550" (13.75mm) and was just slightly crooked.
    the second side I did straighter.

    No click, no scrape, no fuss, no machine shop, and, most importantly, no
    chrome plating loss. I am wondering if swaying in the frame will
    continue to allow the spokes to occassionally contact the frame but
    there is quite a bit of clearance now. Well, I would just have to do a
    frame upgrade then, eh?

    --
    harper - TANKED at GASWORKS

    -Greg Harper

    B L U E S H I F T

    "My world view has come crashing down like a drunk clown on a giraffe,
    riding through a cactus patch..." -evil-nick on "Entry of the
    Gladiators"
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  2. That is some professional looking work. 😎 😄

    --
    mango - unity - as 1 stand together

    *I never post drunk but I always post stupid. *-harper
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  3. [quote="daino149"][B]Glad to see the UDC is shipping the airfoils at last. I was
    wondering if the rims they are shipping are the same rims that were
    made too large cut down, or if they are entirely new rims.
    [/quote]


    I heard that they are fixing all the old rims, and are not making new
    ones.

    --corbin


    --
    corbin - Treehouse Muni Rider

    http://www.corbinstreehouse.com
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  4. Harper, you said:

    "It had rim tape installed which I covered with vinyl electrical tape to
    make it slippery."

    What does this mean?
    I have a Coker and wondered if I can do what you said.
    But why would you do this? to prevent puncture?
    Thanks

    --
    leadpan - OC Cokeur
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  5. leadpan said:

    *Harper, you said:

    "It had rim tape installed which I covered with vinyl electrical tape
    to make it slippery."

    What does this mean?
    I have a Coker and wondered if I can do what you said.
    But why would you do this? to prevent puncture?
    *

    John Childs, the holy man of unicycle maintenance, suggested a slippery
    tape in lieu of a cloth rim tape so that the tube and tire could slide
    around more easily when deep in the groove of the rim. This facilitates
    getting the tire on and the tube's Shrader valve in the correct
    position.

    Standard Coker rims don't need this as far as I can tell. I have never
    had trouble getting a tire on one of the steel rims bare handed with no
    tools. They must be somewhat smaller in OD.

    --
    harper - TANKED at GASWORKS

    -Greg Harper

    B L U E S H I F T

    "My world view has come crashing down like a drunk clown on a giraffe,
    riding through a cactus patch..." -evil-nick on "Entry of the
    Gladiators"
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  6. Another benefit of electrical tape is that it stays in place. My stock
    Coker rim strip was rubber and loose fitting. When I tried to squeeze a
    29 inch tube in from the side, the loose rubber strip got pushed
    off-center and exposed the nipples which punctured the new tube as I
    inflated it. Electrical tape fixed my problem and enabled successful
    installation of the light weight 29 inch tube.

    --
    trailguy - uni is great
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  7. harper said:

    *When I attached the bearing clamps I rotated the wheel and heard a
    slight but distinct scraping every revolution. *


    I had exactly the same problem when I rebuilt my Coker wheel around a
    UDC extra-wide hub. Just one spoke was scraping away.
    Taking the non-engineer option (and assuming that as it was just one
    spoke, that the quality of my build was at fault) I bent the relevant
    spoke in, as it probably wasn't seated right in the hub. also by riding
    & re-tensioning the spokes (which should be done anyway) they settled in
    well, and I've not had the problem again.

    --
    mikepenton - sometimes level
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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