"Gemma Kernich" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:
"hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:I'm not sure if either the ENO or the Miche track groupset come with a
lock ring. It's not too expensive so I don't see why I'd not use one.
Miche hubs do come with a lock ring, (and the ability to use a lockring.)
I
Quoted message said:have seen people with what looks like 'conversions' to a fixed which can't
accomodate a lockring, personally I'd steer clear of anything without a
lockring, or a quick release for that matter.
The conversion to a fixed you are refering to here is exactly what I have
done. It's pretty inexpensive and consists of pulling the gears of an old
bike which has the campag style semi-horizontal dropouts. Replace the
freewheel with a 3/32 inch dura-ace cog (locktite used). Remove outer
Chainring and replace the bolts with BMX bolts. Rearrange the spacers on
the back axle until you get the chain line correct (Shorten chain to suit).
Then redish the wheel to get the rim back to where it should be. I agree
with you regarding the lockring if you only had a front brake but in my case
I have front and rear brakes and hence do not rely on the rear wheel for
braking. When I upgrade the hubs with a set of Suzues there will be a
lockring thread and I will be using it. My opinion is if it's there use it.
I'm not sure yet if I will swap out the axles on the new hubs for QRs. So
far, over a couple of thousand Kms, I have not had a problem with using QRs
on the rear.
This bike got a lot use last year when I crashed on the track and fractured
a bone in my thumb. For about 2.5 months I could not use my road bike at
all. There was a bit of a problem changing gears and braking. Thankfully I
could still ride this bike and my track bike otherwise I would not have been
a happy camper.
Never, despite what some people say, ride without a lockring on the track.
I think it was in a heat of the Austral, the guy on the mark 10m in front
of me, for some unknown reason, decided he needed to backpedal to avoid the
guy in front of him. He unwinds his cog and nearly takes me out as I go
around the outside of him just as he looks like he is about to hit the deck.
My race was basically over at this point because I now had no hope of
getting onto the bunch ahead of me due to the loss of momentum incurred.
🙁 I'm not sure what happened to the guy in front of me. From what I hear
from others he may have copped a fine.
Quoted message said:I have a miche groupset I'm quite happy with, chainrings are cheap
mail-order ex UK.
Me too, I have the hubs on my training wheels. Do you use the splined cog
and carrier setup? I also have the cranks. The only negative point on the
cranks is that the chainring bolts attach directly to the spider. This I
have found this to cause excessive load to be placed on the heads of the
bolts (when compared to the normal setup) and the eventual result of this is
the bolt head parts company from the rest of the bolt. This usually
happens when doing standing starts with a 98.4" gear. Thankfully, thus
far, no more than one has done this at any one time. I would not like to see
what happened if two adjacent bolts broke, (Do these chainrings bend? I hope
not!!).
Quoted message said:The miche lockring is great as you can use the 6-tab shimano
durace BB tool on it.
This idea I like. Currently I'm using the Dura-Ace Lockring/Chain Whip
combo tool which I would still need for my campag lockrings. But for
training where there are a lot of gear changes I can see this BB tool will
prolong the life of my miche lockring.
Quoted message said:
Same goes for track nuts (axle nuts), in this case Miche is the same as
shimano, whereas campy is different.
When it comes time to replace your Miche wheelnuts you can also use the
cheaper than Shimano, but better than Miche, Suzue ones. Be warned, you
need to get the correct type of Suzue nut to fit the Miche axle. Different
model Suzue hubs use different axle threads.
Geoff
