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tyres - 1.5 vs 1.25 - a difference?

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18 March 2007
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  1. I commute 30 minutes to work, each way, and I need new tyres. My 26"
    rims will take down to a 1.25 tyre, but will cost me a bit more, and
    I'm told I'll have to use the more expensive presta tubes. Is there
    actually much difference between a 1.25 and a

  2. Quoted message said:

    I commute 30 minutes to work, each way, and I need new tyres. My 26"
    rims will take down to a 1.25 tyre, but will cost me a bit more, and
    I'm told I'll have to use the more expensive presta tubes. Is there
    actually much difference between a 1.25 and a

    [oops] ... 1.5 tyre?

    thanks,
    Charlie

  3. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I commute 30 minutes to work, each way, and I need new tyres. My 26"
    rims will take down to a 1.25 tyre, but will cost me a bit more, and
    I'm told I'll have to use the more expensive presta tubes. Is there
    actually much difference between a 1.25 and a

    [oops] ... 1.5 tyre?

    thanks,
    Charlie

    Other features of the tire can have more of an effect than the size.
    So the short answer is: No, there is not much difference between 1.5
    and 1.25 on a commuter. I have never known presta valve tubes to be
    more expensive. Anyway, if your rims have holes for schrader valves
    (car type) that that is what you should use. It's the hole in the rim
    that dictates what sort of valve you use. It may just be that your
    local store only has more expensive presta tubes in a size that would
    work with 1.25's, but that is not the rule.

    If you ride on asphalt exclusively, get some slicks. They will roll
    better, more quietly, and grip better.

    have fun!

    Joseph

  4. email hidden said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Mar 18, 9:03 pm, [email hidden] wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I commute 30 minutes to work, each way, and I need new tyres. My 26"
    rims will take down to a 1.25 tyre, but will cost me a bit more, and
    I'm told I'll have to use the more expensive presta tubes. Is there
    actually much difference between a 1.25 and a

    Quoted message said:

    [oops] ... 1.5 tyre?

    Quoted message said:

    thanks,
    Charlie

    Other features of the tire can have more of an effect than the size.
    So the short answer is: No, there is not much difference between 1.5
    and 1.25 on a commuter. I have never known presta valve tubes to be
    more expensive. Anyway, if your rims have holes for schrader valves
    (car type) that that is what you should use. It's the hole in the rim
    that dictates what sort of valve you use. It may just be that your
    local store only has more expensive presta tubes in a size that would
    work with 1.25's, but that is not the rule.

    If you ride on asphalt exclusively, get some slicks. They will roll
    better, more quietly, and grip better.

    have fun!

    Joseph

    Thanks Joseph, I am definitely getting the slicks. I had thought that
    the presta tubes were necessary for the small 1.25 tyres ... but ...
    no true? anyway Cheers!

  5. Quoted message said:

    On Mar 18, 10:17 pm, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:

    On Mar 18, 11:06 am, [email hidden] wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Mar 18, 9:03 pm, [email hidden] wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > I commute 30 minutes to work, each way, and I need new tyres. My 26"
    > rims will take down to a 1.25 tyre, but will cost me a bit more, and
    > I'm told I'll have to use the more expensive presta tubes. Is there
    > actually much difference between a 1.25 and a

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    [oops] ... 1.5 tyre?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    thanks,
    Charlie

    Quoted message said:

    Other features of the tire can have more of an effect than the size.
    So the short answer is: No, there is not much difference between 1.5
    and 1.25 on a commuter. I have never known presta valve tubes to be
    more expensive. Anyway, if your rims have holes for schrader valves
    (car type) that that is what you should use. It's the hole in the rim
    that dictates what sort of valve you use. It may just be that your
    local store only has more expensive presta tubes in a size that would
    work with 1.25's, but that is not the rule.

    Quoted message said:

    If you ride on asphalt exclusively, get some slicks. They will roll
    better, more quietly, and grip better.

    Quoted message said:

    have fun!

    Quoted message said:

    Joseph

    Thanks Joseph, I am definitely getting the slicks. I had thought that
    the presta tubes were necessary for the small 1.25 tyres ... but ...
    no true? anyway Cheers!

    If your LBS is trying to push presta tubes on you with the argument
    that they're necessary for the higher pressures, then kindly call them
    on their lie. That's just [censored] or ignorance or a delightful
    combination plate. Of course you need an appropriately sized tube for
    your tire. Presta valves *will* work in a schrader drilling, but see
    if you can get a grommet to reduce the valve hole size if you go that
    route. It's not absolutely necessary, but it's nice.

    Get the 1.25 tires, unless the roads where you are are extraordinarily
    rough. 1.25 is around the same as 32mm--a perfect utility width,
    similar to the classic size on European utility bikes.

  6. On 18 Mar 2007 06:59:52 -0700, "landotter" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:


    If your LBS is trying to push presta tubes on you with the argument
    that they're necessary for the higher pressures, then kindly call them
    on their lie. That's just [censored] or ignorance or a delightful
    combination plate. Of course you need an appropriately sized tube for
    your tire. Presta valves *will* work in a schrader drilling, but see
    if you can get a grommet to reduce the valve hole size if you go that
    route. It's not absolutely necessary, but it's nice.

    Of course they need a Presta valve tube, and then, of course, a
    Presta pump, which they happen to have to sell. Life is full of
    wonderful coincidences.

    Curtis L. Russell
    Odenton, MD (USA)
    Just someone on two wheels...

  7. The reason I went to a MTB in 1988 or so was that I liked the smoother
    ride of the fat tires. Which suggests one can prefer the fatter tire,
    and perhaps only need to investigate (fat) slicks to reduce tire
    drag and noise and make it still more pleasant.

    I'm usually up around 26x2 but it varies depending on what's on sale.
    --
    Ron Hardin
    [email hidden]

    On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

  8. On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 17:06:02 GMT, Ron Hardin <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    The reason I went to a MTB in 1988 or so was that I liked the smoother
    ride of the fat tires. Which suggests one can prefer the fatter tire,
    and perhaps only need to investigate (fat) slicks to reduce tire
    drag and noise and make it still more pleasant.

    I'm usually up around 26x2 but it varies depending on what's on sale.

    Running a 2" smoother tire isn't unusual on a recumbent and certainly
    ride easy enough. I do wince when I see an agressive tread on a bike
    that never leaves the road - how often are they going to run into a
    mud slide, anyway? And those are a lot of rubber to run around on for
    commuting.

    Curtis L. Russell
    Odenton, MD (USA)
    Just someone on two wheels...

  9. Quoted message said:

    I commute 30 minutes to work, each way, and I need new tyres. My 26"
    rims will take down to a 1.25 tyre, but will cost me a bit more, and
    I'm told I'll have to use the more expensive presta tubes. Is there
    actually much difference between a 1.25 and a 1.5?


    The 1.25 will be 1/4" (6.35 mm) narrower than the 1.5", assuming both
    are made by the same manufacturer. Different manufacturers will size
    their tires/tyres with varying degrees of accuracy, so a 1.25 from tire
    maker "A" could be a tiny bit wider or narrower than a 1.25 from tire
    maker "B".

    The 1.25 will be a tiny bit lighter than the same make/model in a 1.5,
    possibly saving you as much as 30 seconds on a 30 minute commute. It
    will also ride a bit more harshly, and be a bit more vulnerable to pinch
    flats. It will also need to be reinflated somewhat more frequently,
    require inflating to a somewhat higher pressure and will be a bit less
    tolerant of being ridden while underinflated. The extra time spent on
    more frequent inflation to higher pressures could very well offset the
    savings in time and effort while commuting to and from work. Whoever
    told you that you would need a presta tube is taking the [censored] (I think
    that's the proper use of that phrase).

    If you are riding on paved roads then my advice is to get a good quality
    1.5 tire with a slick tread or with minimal tread pattern. If you want
    to spend more money and ride lighter tires, get a 1.5 tire with a Kevlar
    bead (folding tire).

    mark

  10. mark said:
    Quoted message said:

    I commute 30 minutes to work, each way, and I need new tyres. My 26"
    rims will take down to a 1.25 tyre, but will cost me a bit more, and
    I'm told I'll have to use the more expensive presta tubes. Is there
    actually much difference between a 1.25 and a 1.5?

    The 1.25 will be 1/4" (6.35 mm) narrower than the 1.5", assuming both
    are made by the same manufacturer. Different manufacturers will size
    their tires/tyres with varying degrees of accuracy, so a 1.25 from tire
    maker "A" could be a tiny bit wider or narrower than a 1.25 from tire
    maker "B".

    The 1.25 will be a tiny bit lighter than the same make/model in a 1.5,
    possibly saving you as much as 30 seconds on a 30 minute commute. It
    will also ride a bit more harshly, and be a bit more vulnerable to pinch
    flats. It will also need to be reinflated somewhat more frequently,
    require inflating to a somewhat higher pressure and will be a bit less
    tolerant of being ridden while underinflated. The extra time spent on
    more frequent inflation to higher pressures could very well offset the
    savings in time and effort while commuting to and from work.

    Blah, blah, blah. Such hysterics. 1.25" is 32mm, quite wide and
    floaty, and usually capable of running around 75psi, which is a nice
    comfy pressure that's still not squidgy feeling. It's no worse than
    the 1.5, both are pretty fat road tires. Between a 1.25 Pasela and a
    1.5, there's little weight difference, no price difference, and little
    performance difference. But, as there's a price difference, it's
    probably two different brands of tires, likely the 1.25"s being higher
    quality with less mass, and a nippier feeling off the line... Even if
    they're otherwise identical I'd take the 1.25" as it's going to be
    slightly more responsive. It's still a fat tire. This is not an
    argument between 23mm and 32mm. I certainly wouldn't give this bike
    shop a penny of my cash. When they lie, to you, turn around and find a
    new place to shop.

  11. landotter said:

    1.25" is 32mm, quite wide and floaty, ...I'd take the 1.25" as it's going
    to be
    slightly more responsive. It's still a fat tire.

    More proof that all things are relative. For hybrids and mountain bikes, 32
    mm would be thin.

  12. Mike Kruger said:
    landotter said:

    1.25" is 32mm, quite wide and floaty, ...I'd take the 1.25" as it's going
    to be
    slightly more responsive. It's still a fat tire.

    More proof that all things are relative. For hybrids and mountain bikes, 32
    mm would be thin.

    Well, for a mtb, sure. A mtb with such skinnies is really a de-facto
    hybrid with 26" wheels. For a heavy duty hybrids, isn't around 37mm
    the norm? And that's usually a very heavy duty tire that weighs around
    600-700g, often with an annoying tread that saps rolling resistance.
    My last Nexus equipped bike I had a few years ago came with such
    tires. After wearing them out, I switched to reasonably durable 32 mm
    Michelins with skinwalls that weighed around 350g. That's something
    like a pound and a half of reduced rotating weight. The bike felt far
    nippier, floated over bumps better due to the nicer casing, yet had no
    increased punctures, as the new tires still had a decent amount of
    rubber between the road and the tube.

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