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Tyre Pressure

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
27 May 2005
Last activity
2 June 2005
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Peter McCallum
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  1. PandA said:

    Hi all

    I'm sure this has been asked before, but I couldn't find any questions in
    the previous posts about it.

    I have a pretty crappy touring bike (Repco Traveller), on the tyres it says
    that the max PSI is 85.

    I usually use a hand pump which gets me no where near this, but since I am
    essentially lazy, have taken it to the local servo to use their compressor.

    Should I be filling the tyre to the max 85 PSI (will this cause harm to the
    tyre, e.g. more likely to puncture?), or to something lower (about 40 is
    what I can get with the hand pump)

    I have tried consulting web sites on bicycle maintenance but they seem to
    talk of putting 120PSI in. My tyres must be pretty crappy to match the bike
    to have a low max....

    Anyhow, your suggestions are appreciated.

    Andrew.

    At 40psi your are more likely to get punctures, especially ones caused
    by running over objects and pinching the tube against the rim. 75-85
    would be much safer. It will prevent the tyre roling off the rim during
    tight/fast cornering.

    That said, if the tyres are stuffed, get new ones.

    Peter
    --
    Peter McCallum
    Mackay Qld AUSTRALIA

  2. Hi all

    I'm sure this has been asked before, but I couldn't find any questions in
    the previous posts about it.

    I have a pretty crappy touring bike (Repco Traveller), on the tyres it says
    that the max PSI is 85.

    I usually use a hand pump which gets me no where near this, but since I am
    essentially lazy, have taken it to the local servo to use their compressor.

    Should I be filling the tyre to the max 85 PSI (will this cause harm to the
    tyre, e.g. more likely to puncture?), or to something lower (about 40 is
    what I can get with the hand pump)

    I have tried consulting web sites on bicycle maintenance but they seem to
    talk of putting 120PSI in. My tyres must be pretty crappy to match the bike
    to have a low max....

    Anyhow, your suggestions are appreciated.

    Andrew.

  3. On Fri, 27 May 2005 at 01:17 GMT, PandA (aka Bruce)
    was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:

    Quoted message said:

    Should I be filling the tyre to the max 85 PSI (will this cause harm to the
    tyre, e.g. more likely to puncture?), or to something lower (about 40 is
    what I can get with the hand pump)

    I have tried consulting web sites on bicycle maintenance but they seem to
    talk of putting 120PSI in. My tyres must be pretty crappy to match the bike
    to have a low max....

    120 is for road bikes. The 85 limit is more like a touring bike
    (1.5"😉. Some mountain bike tires are far lower.

    I can barely get 40 with my hand pump - quite dissapointed after
    seeing the performance of a couple of the tiny hand pumps on the BR
    rides. Foot pump gets me up to the necessary 70 on my thicker touring
    tires, and 90 or so on the thinner tire. My foot pump doesn't have a
    guage though, so I have to rip the pump off, and then apply my hand
    pump with guage, and quickly release it once I have read the guage,
    before too much air has escaped.

    I found when I first decided to pump one of my tires up to its limit,
    I got a flat very quickly. Taking a look at the tire, I realised the
    canvas was showing through - definitely a sign to replace the tire.
    The only time you should get a flat (or blowout) when pumping up to
    the limit, is when the tire is too old, and when the outside
    temperature is so hot that the air inside the tube has increased
    pressure significantly.

    --
    TimC -- http://astronomy.swin.edu.au/staff/tconnors/
    Like most computer techie people, I'll happily spend 6 hours trying to figure
    out how to do a 3 hour job in 10 minutes. --Rev. James Cort, ASR

  4. TimC said:

    I found when I first decided to pump one of my tires up to its limit,
    I got a flat very quickly. Taking a look at the tire, I realised the
    canvas was showing through - definitely a sign to replace the tire.
    The only time you should get a flat (or blowout) when pumping up to
    the limit, is when the tire is too old, and when the outside
    temperature is so hot that the air inside the tube has increased
    pressure significantly.

    I've found that running very high pressures (110-120psi) increase my
    chances of getting punctures from glass intrusion... Lower pressures
    (~100psi) seems to allow the tyre to deform around the glass (or similar
    sharp object), rather than holding it's shape and allowing the sharp
    edge to cut through the case

    YMMV

    --
    BrettS

  5. For my MTB commute I go hard but stay 10% shy of max. Hard tyres saves punctures as the tyre surface is pretty stiff & can deflect some pesky hole inducing debis.

    For my dirt MTB the tyres are rated up to 80psi, but I find that 45-50psi is best for handling & traction. higher psi offroad makes it bounce all over the shop (hardtail),l not sure about pinch-flats as I have not expereinced any.

  6. How cool - my first ever 'road bike' was a Repco Traveller, saved up my
    pocket money and part-time wages for ages to get it. Had those groovy
    'brake lever extensions' across the handlebars so you could still brake
    while riding 'upright'.

    Aaah, the memories...

    Absent Husband

  7. "Marx SS" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    For my MTB commute I go hard but stay 10% shy of max.

    Waaay to much information! And stop bragging anyway. :-)

    Cheers
    Peter

  8. Peter Signorini said:


    "Marx SS" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    For my MTB commute I go hard but stay 10% shy of max.

    Waaay to much information! And stop bragging anyway. :-)

    Cheers
    Peter

    [censored], we're verging on aus.brothel now!

  9. "Tamyka Bell" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Peter Signorini said:


    "Marx SS" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    For my MTB commute I go hard but stay 10% shy of max.

    Waaay to much information! And stop bragging anyway. :-)

    Cheers
    Peter

    [censored], we're verging on aus.brothel now!

    It's one of those days, I suppose. Winter is upon us and with it, the urge
    to snuggle. Snuggle is a word with a potentially broad spectrum of use too,
    before anyone say anything.

  10. "Absent Husband" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    How cool - my first ever 'road bike' was a Repco Traveller, saved up
    my pocket money and part-time wages for ages to get it. Had those
    groovy 'brake lever extensions' across the handlebars so you could
    still brake while riding 'upright'.

    Aaah, the memories...

    Absent Husband

    Anyone know if you can still get brake levers with those groovy 'brake
    lever extensions'? I'd really like a set for a little project I have
    (restoring my first 10 speed).

    Cheers

    BrettM

  11. "Brett" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    Anyone know if you can still get brake levers with those groovy 'brake
    lever extensions'? I'd really like a set for a little project I have
    (restoring my first 10 speed).

    Cheers

    BrettM

    You could use inline cyclocross levers. Like these:
    http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/webalog/brakes/15109.html

    Adam

  12. PandA said:

    Hi all

    I'm sure this has been asked before, but I couldn't find any questions in
    the previous posts about it.

    I have a pretty crappy touring bike (Repco Traveller), on the tyres it says
    that the max PSI is 85.

    I usually use a hand pump which gets me no where near this, but since I am
    essentially lazy, have taken it to the local servo to use their compressor.

    Should I be filling the tyre to the max 85 PSI (will this cause harm to the
    tyre, e.g. more likely to puncture?), or to something lower (about 40 is
    what I can get with the hand pump)

    I have tried consulting web sites on bicycle maintenance but they seem to
    talk of putting 120PSI in. My tyres must be pretty crappy to match the bike
    to have a low max....

    Anyhow, your suggestions are appreciated.

    Andrew.


    Greetings,
    The max pressure might be 85 PSI, but probably about 60 PSI would be
    more typical for an average touring tyre. This is assuming you are using
    something like a 700C by 35-38mm.
    120 PSI is okay for racing slicks on good sealed roads, but not suitable
    for larger tyres on rougher surfaces. 40 PSI would be typical of a big
    MTB tyre, the larger the tyre, the lower the pressure required, as
    witnessed by car tyres, which typicalyl run at 30-35 PSI. Hope this helps.
    Regards,
    Ray.

  13. "Peter Signorini" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Resound" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Sooooo cool...didn't know when I had it good)

    Not so cool at all these days

    Quoted message said:

    and they were a lot more effective than stretching over the hoods. They
    also mean that you've got a way of grabbing the brakes, regardless of
    what your hand position is at the time. So can anyone explain why they're
    so bad? I can't get onto Sheldon's site at the moment for some reason,
    and I've read that page before in any case...I don't seem to recall him
    explaining why they're a problem either.

    Two major dangers as far as I'm concerned:

    1. They're a good deal longer than the brake levers and flex much more
    under load ie. emrgency stopping
    2. If you're brake hoods are wrongly positioned, or get moved, it's easy
    for the suicide levers to no longer fully apply the brakes. Half applied
    brakes don't stop you too well.

    Yes, but brake applied with poor leverage from the hoods are only half
    applied anyway.

    Quoted message said:

    Sheldon doesn't mention either of these, but I saw lots of beginner club
    cyclists with this hazardous setup. Also there's the danger of braking
    with a high, narrow hand position, not good for control.

    If you only intend to restore a '70s vintage bike, go for it. Just ride it
    with due caution. I still remember the wonders of safety-lever operated
    centre-pulls on steel rims on a wet day. Brake.... count to 20... then
    stop. I do love my V-brakes!

    Cheers
    Peter

    Cheers
    Peter

  14. "Peter Signorini" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:


    Brett said:


    Anyone know if you can still get brake levers with those groovy


    'brake

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    lever extensions'? I'd really like a set for a little project I have
    (restoring my first 10 speed).

    Good grief, you mean 'suicide levers'

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html#extension

    Generally not a very wise nor effective method for sfe stopping

    Cheers
    Peter

    That's them. Don't particularly want them for stopping it's more of a
    nostaglia/appearance thing.

    Cheers
    BrettM

  15. On Sat, 28 May 2005 14:26:20 +1000, "Resound"
    <[email hidden]> wrote in aus.bicycle:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Good grief, you mean 'suicide levers'

    Quoted message said:


    I've never really understood the antipathy towards these things. They're not
    brilliant, but I had them on my very first ever proper bike (teeny bright
    orange Peugeot road bike bought for me when I was 10. Sooooo cool...didn't
    know when I had it good) and they were a lot more effective than stretching
    over the hoods. They also mean that you've got a way of grabbing the brakes,
    regardless of what your hand position is at the time. So can anyone explain
    why they're so bad? I can't get onto Sheldon's site at the moment for some
    reason, and I've read that page before in any case...I don't seem to recall
    him explaining why they're a problem either.

    I had a set on an old Repro Pro road bike (steel rims and a frame
    that flexed like a whippet) and I thought they were great. So handy
    being able to brake from the drops or the top of the bars. They never
    failed to work for me, utterly reliable and whilst not quite as
    powerful as the main brake levers they were fine under most
    circumstances.

    BUT

    I bought a shiny new Wheeler with the gears on the brake levers, light
    frame, alloy rims blah de blah.... Early one lovely spring morning I
    was happily cycling along the cycleway next to Tom Thumbs Lagoon
    looking at the trees, listening to the birds and generally enjoying
    life. I rounded one corner and sped up thinking I was on the straight
    run completely forgetting the sharp right across a narrow bridge.
    Realised I was going too fast, no worries, pulled on the brake
    extension levers...

    Unfortunately this bike didn't have them and by the time I was onto
    the real brakes I was into the corner, into the railing, surveying a
    bent frame, bent forks and feeling lucky not to have gone over the
    railings and dropped 3 or 4 metres into the mud!

    It was the lack of them that caused me trouble! Though I accept that
    they got me into bad habits 🙁

    It was also the first time I used my mobile phone to get my wife to
    come and rescue me!

    Regards
    Bruce

  16. Peter Signorini said:
    Brett said:


    Anyone know if you can still get brake levers with those groovy 'brake
    lever extensions'? I'd really like a set for a little project I have
    (restoring my first 10 speed).

    Good grief, you mean 'suicide levers'

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html#extension

    Generally not a very wise nor effective method for sfe stopping

    I don't think "suicide levers" is a fair way to describe well-made
    brake extensions. Poorly made, lots of things could be a recipe for
    suicide on a bicycle.

    I have a 70s vintage bicycle that I ride all the time (read: on a
    daily basis nearly) and it has reasonable quality brake extensions on
    it (reasonable compared to the quality of the rest of it!).

    Looking at Sheldon's gripes, this is how the situation pans out with
    this particular bike (plus some more general comments):

    1. The extension lever partially applied the main brake lever,
    reducing the available lever travel.

    Rubbish! I don't want lots of travel, just the opposite. If your
    levers are traveling the full possible distance, then they are way
    out of adjustment and dangerous. Don't forget that we are talking a
    reduced travel distance of about 2 or 3 mm. This point of Sheldon's
    is just irrational, full stop.

    2. The attachment hardware precluded the use of the top of the brake
    lever hood as a comfortable riding position.

    I use this position most of the time, and it's perfectly
    comfortable. I do use riding gloves, of course, which makes it even
    more comfortable. Perhaps Sheldon is talking about really badly
    designed extensions? Who knows?

    3. They encouraged the practice of riding with the hands on the top,
    middle section of the bar, which is a position that doesn't give
    very secure control, especially on bumpy surfaces, because the
    hands are too close together.

    This is really a silly thing to say, too. If it were true, then why
    don't *I* ride with my hands perched on the top all the time?
    Answer: I'm not an idiot, but Sheldon is apparently assuming that
    bicycle riders with brake extensions are idiots. Extensions do not
    *encourage* overuse of the tops, but do make it *possible*
    to use the tops safely in more situations. This is the point of
    them. An idiot will use the tops, brakes or no brakes.

    What Sheldon is really implying is that people can't be trusted to
    make wise use of convenience and safety features, noting that
    convenience is directly related to safety when it comes to braking
    (and gear changing, too, for that matter). He is also ignoring one
    of the big benefits of drop bars: the variety of hand positions
    possible on them, which is important in reducing fatigue. What he
    is in fact saying, is "Don't use the tops because there are no
    brake levers there," which is a silly thing to say, when there
    *can* be levers there, and they *can* be safe.

    4. The hardware that held the extension levers to the main levers
    was prone to fall off.

    El cheapo brakes could be dangerous, period. Nothing surprising
    about that. It's interesting to note, though, that the brakes on my
    70s bike have never failed or fallen apart, even though they *are*
    el cheapo-ish.

    Sheldon doesn't directly address the issue of power. With the
    extensions, it is possible to apply maximum dry-weather braking power
    more easily than from the top lever position. In that regard, the
    extensions are safer than the levers (even from the drop
    position). It's true that there is less steering control from the
    tops, but in emergency braking, one must generally stop in a straight
    line anyhow. The main point is, however, that if one is *going* to use
    the tops (i.e., take full advantage of the bars) at all, then one
    should be able to brake from that position, too.

    In wet weather, with steel rims, things can get interesting.
    Obviously, extreme caution is required (not to mention avoidance of
    riding in these conditions where possible -- I like my V brakes on
    aluminium rims, too! ;-)). In this situation, I more often use the
    drops, because I can squeeze the proverbial out of the caliper brakes
    if necessary, which can't quite be matched on the extensions (and
    certainly not from the weak top lever position).

    It is my belief that road racing cyclists who use the tops without
    braking available there are putting themselves and others in an
    unnecessarily dangerous position, and I posit that more accidents
    would be caused by that practice than from the use of extensions
    (uncool and unhip as they may be).

    Note also that I use bicycles for transportation, not sport.

    David

    --

    David Trudgett
    http://www.zeta.org.au/~wpower/

    Capitalism is about sharing things in the same way that
    Tug-Of-War is about sharing the rope.

  17. Hey, did somebody mention my name?

    David Trudgett said:

    I don't think "suicide levers" is a fair way to describe well-made
    brake extensions. Poorly made, lots of things could be a recipe for
    suicide on a bicycle.

    I agree, and I have never made a habit of using that term, but it is in
    my Bicycle Glossary because others use it.

    "Well made" extension levers do exist (though no longer in production.)
    However, they're very uncommon, at least in the U.S. Might be
    different in Oz. Up north, the crummy Dia-Compe units originally
    designed as an add-on to Weinmann brake levers were ubiquitous in the
    late '70s and early '80s.

    Quoted message said:


    I have a 70s vintage bicycle that I ride all the time (read: on a
    daily basis nearly) and it has reasonable quality brake extensions on
    it (reasonable compared to the quality of the rest of it!).

    Looking at Sheldon's gripes, this is how the situation pans out with
    this particular bike (plus some more general comments):

    1. The extension lever partially applied the main brake lever,
    reducing the available lever travel.

    Rubbish! I don't want lots of travel, just the opposite. If your
    levers are traveling the full possible distance, then they are way
    out of adjustment and dangerous. Don't forget that we are talking a
    reduced travel distance of about 2 or 3 mm. This point of Sheldon's
    is just irrational, full stop.

    Actually the reduced travel is probably twice that at least. These
    levers were most often used on bikes with centerpull calipers, which
    require a fair amount of cable travel. When adjusted to clear less
    than perfectly true wheels, it was not unusual for the lever to bottom
    out against the handlebar. Once the lever hits the handlebar, it
    doesn't matter how much harder you squeeze it.

    Given the typical level of maintenance these bikes received, coupled
    with the (yuck!) steel rims, the result was very often brakes that
    barely worked dry, and became utterly useless in the wet.

    There is actually a fix for this even with the Dia Compes. You see it
    sometimes on early 80s bikes, made toward the end of the popularity of
    these add-on levers. The trick is to cut a notch in the lower front
    edge of the lever body, allowing the tab of the extension lever to fit
    into the recess, and thus allowing the main lever to retract fully when
    released, as it was originally designed to.

    Quoted message said:


    2. The attachment hardware precluded the use of the top of the brake
    lever hood as a comfortable riding position.

    I use this position most of the time, and it's perfectly
    comfortable. I do use riding gloves, of course, which makes it even
    more comfortable. Perhaps Sheldon is talking about really badly
    designed extensions? Who knows?

    Yes, Dia-Compe and the like. The Shimano units were much better, and
    permitted installation of rubber hoods on the levers.

    Quoted message said:

    3. They encouraged the practice of riding with the hands on the top,
    middle section of the bar, which is a position that doesn't give
    very secure control, especially on bumpy surfaces, because the
    hands are too close together.

    This is really a silly thing to say, too. If it were true, then why
    don't *I* ride with my hands perched on the top all the time?

    All generalisations are false.

    These levers were _most_often_ used as a palliative for casual cyclists
    who really didn't belong on drop handlebars, at least not without a
    tall handlebar stem.

    Occasional, casual cyclists are not usually comfortable in an
    aggressive, forward leaning posture. Back in the '70s Bike Boom, a
    great many neophytes bought drop bar 10 speeds because they were a hot
    fashion accessory, but these bikes don't fit the riding style of
    occasional, low-intensity cyclists.

    It is not uncommon for such cyclists to _never_ ride in the drops.
    That is a sure sign that something is wrong with the fit.

    Many of these people would have been better served by a Raleigh three
    speed, back in the day, but that wasn't trendy enough. Most of these
    folks either gave up cycling altogether, or bought mountain bikes in
    the late '80s because they were so uncomfortable on their Bike Boom 10
    speeds.

    Quoted message said:

    Answer: I'm not an idiot, but Sheldon is apparently assuming that
    bicycle riders with brake extensions are idiots.

    No, not idiots, but not hard-core cyclists either. The target customer
    for these was the occasional weekend bike rider. That's not to say
    that _everybody_ who uses or likes them falls into that category, but
    like many stereotypes it has a grain of truth.

    Quoted message said:

    Extensions do not
    *encourage* overuse of the tops, but do make it *possible*
    to use the tops safely in more situations. This is the point of
    them. An idiot will use the tops, brakes or no brakes.

    If the handlebars are properly adjusted, the rider will use a range of
    positions according to prevailing conditions. When you see someone
    who _always_ rides on the tops, it's evident that that person's bike is
    not propperly fitted/equpped for his/her riding style.

    Quoted message said:

    What Sheldon is really implying is that people can't be trusted to
    make wise use of convenience and safety features,

    I am?

    Quoted message said:

    noting that
    convenience is directly related to safety when it comes to braking
    (and gear changing, too, for that matter). He is also ignoring one
    of the big benefits of drop bars: the variety of hand positions
    possible on them, which is important in reducing fatigue.

    Au contraire, it's the folks who ride all the time on the tops who are
    ignoring that benefit, usually because their bikes are not properly
    fitted.

    Quoted message said:

    What he
    is in fact saying, is "Don't use the tops because there are no
    brake levers there," which is a silly thing to say, when there
    *can* be levers there, and they *can* be safe.

    That would be a silly thing to say, if I actually said it. You're
    putting words into my mouth.

    I would say that the top-centre position should not be used more than,
    say, 30% of riding time, and should generally be avoided on bumpy
    surfaces.

    Modern "aero" brake levers make the top-of-the-hoods position the main
    cruising position for most riders. A little-known advantage of modern
    "aero" levers is that, due to a different location of the pivot point,
    they permit you to actually _stop_ from the hood position. This was
    generally not possible with the old-style levers with exposed cables,
    except for lightweight riders with very strong hands.

    Quoted message said:


    4. The hardware that held the extension levers to the main levers
    was prone to fall off.

    El cheapo brakes could be dangerous, period. Nothing surprising
    about that. It's interesting to note, though, that the brakes on my
    70s bike have never failed or fallen apart, even though they *are*
    el cheapo-ish.

    I guess that's proof. If yours never fell off, nobodys' could ever
    have fallen off. ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    Sheldon doesn't directly address the issue of power. With the
    extensions, it is possible to apply maximum dry-weather braking power
    more easily than from the top lever position.

    That was true for the old-style levers with exposed cables, but is not
    true for modern "aero" levers. See above.

    Quoted message said:

    In that regard, the
    extensions are safer than the levers (even from the drop
    position). It's true that there is less steering control from the
    tops, but in emergency braking, one must generally stop in a straight
    line anyhow. The main point is, however, that if one is *going* to use
    the tops (i.e., take full advantage of the bars) at all, then one
    should be able to brake from that position, too.

    There are recently introduced "interrupter levers" a.k.a. "cyclocross
    levers" that give you the best of both.
    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-levers-drop.html#cross

    Quoted message said:

    In wet weather, with steel rims, things can get interesting.

    Indeed!

    Quoted message said:

    Obviously, extreme caution is required (not to mention avoidance of
    riding in these conditions where possible

    It never rains in Australia, does it? ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    -- I like my V brakes on
    aluminium rims, too! ;-)). In this situation, I more often use the
    drops, because I can squeeze the proverbial out of the caliper brakes
    if necessary, which can't quite be matched on the extensions (and
    certainly not from the weak top lever position).

    Try some of the modern brake levers, you'll be amazed how well they
    work from the hoods.

    Quoted message said:

    It is my belief that road racing cyclists who use the tops without
    braking available there are putting themselves and others in an
    unnecessarily dangerous position, and I posit that more accidents
    would be caused by that practice than from the use of extensions
    (uncool and unhip as they may be).

    Racing cyclists generally use the top-middle position primarily as a
    "time trial" position, in conditions that don't commonly require sudden
    braking. It is also used for climbing, another situation where
    instant access to the brakes is not such a major concern.

    Quoted message said:


    Note also that I use bicycles for transportation, not sport.

    Me too!

    Sheldon "Purveyor Of Silly Irrational Rubbish" Brown
    +---------------------------------------------+
    | If your bike has drop handlebars, but you |
    | rarely or never ride on the drops, it's a |
    | sure sign that your bike is not properly |
    | fitted or is not properly adjusted! |
    | See: http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup |
    +---------------------------------------------+

  18. Sheldon Brown said:


    Hey, did somebody mention my name?


    <snip>

    Quoted message said:

    Sheldon "Purveyor Of Silly Irrational Rubbish" Brown
    +---------------------------------------------+
    | If your bike has drop handlebars, but you |
    | rarely or never ride on the drops, it's a |
    | sure sign that your bike is not properly |
    | fitted or is not properly adjusted! |
    | See: http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup |
    +---------------------------------------------+

    OMG we have a celebrity on a.b!

    Hi Sheldon! *waves*

    Tam

  19. Hi Sheldon,

    Great to see you here! Hope I wasn't too tough on your stuff, but I
    tend to just call things how I see them.

    Your elaborations here of what you had on your website are quite
    valid, of course; it's just that maybe some of those elaborations
    could perhaps make it onto the web page. I only read the pertinent
    section on brake extensions, though, so it's just possible there was
    some context I missed that may have put a slightly different spin on it.

    Some more comments below.

    Sheldon Brown said:

    Hey, did somebody mention my name?

    David Trudgett said:

    I don't think "suicide levers" is a fair way to describe well-made
    brake extensions. Poorly made, lots of things could be a recipe for
    suicide on a bicycle.

    I agree, and I have never made a habit of using that term, but it is in
    my Bicycle Glossary because others use it.

    Sure, I guess so, but the way you had it made it sound like you were
    endorsing those terms as accurate/reasonable descriptions of brake
    extensions (when, in fact, they would only be accurate for some, or
    even the most common type in North America).

    Quoted message said:


    "Well made" extension levers do exist (though no longer in production.)
    However, they're very uncommon, at least in the U.S. Might be
    different in Oz. Up north, the crummy Dia-Compe units originally
    designed as an add-on to Weinmann brake levers were ubiquitous in the
    late '70s and early '80s.

    I've no idea how common they are in Oz (ones that are "well made",
    that is). As you say, I doubt that they are still in production.

    Also, the ones I have at least don't appear to be "add-ons" (in the
    sense of after-market).

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    I have a 70s vintage bicycle that I ride all the time (read: on a
    daily basis nearly) and it has reasonable quality brake extensions on
    it (reasonable compared to the quality of the rest of it!).

    I should stress that the quality of these things is "reasonable". I
    don't think I'd get someone to trade campag stuff for them... ;-) They
    do the job! Also, I don't have any reason to believe that the ones I
    have are *terribly* unusual from typical fare here in Australia in the
    70's and 80's, but they could be, I'm no expert on the subject. It's
    entirely possible that other designs are death traps. The thing is,
    though, that your page seemed to be making a pretty universal claim,
    which didn't seem to be warranted in my experience. On the plus side,
    you did mention particular brand names, which is good! It just seemed
    that you were extrapolating from those to all others.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Looking at Sheldon's gripes, this is how the situation pans out with
    this particular bike (plus some more general comments):

    1. The extension lever partially applied the main brake lever,
    reducing the available lever travel.

    Rubbish! I don't want lots of travel, just the opposite. If your
    levers are traveling the full possible distance, then they are way
    out of adjustment and dangerous. Don't forget that we are talking a
    reduced travel distance of about 2 or 3 mm. This point of Sheldon's
    is just irrational, full stop.

    Actually the reduced travel is probably twice that at least. These

    Perhaps on the ones you have experience with. Certainly on mine (I
    just looked), the distance is no more than 3mm. This shows, of course,
    that we are definitely talking apples and oranges here with regards to
    experience. I've seen a few of those extensions over the years (mostly
    in the 80's), and (given memory is imperfect) I certainly don't recall
    any with reduced travel of 6 mm or more. That would be quite
    noticeable.

    In any case, on my particular bike (which I don't think is a K-Mart
    special, but probably more like what you would have found on the cheap
    end in a bike shop) the braking action is not adversely affected at
    all. Maximum braking pressure under any conditions comes way before
    there is any risk of coming up against the bars.

    But let's be clear that I'm not saying my experience is universal
    either, but merely that just on statistical principles, it's likely to
    be *average* for the era we're talking about.

    Quoted message said:

    levers were most often used on bikes with centerpull calipers, which
    require a fair amount of cable travel. When adjusted to clear less
    than perfectly true wheels, it was not unusual for the lever to bottom
    out against the handlebar. Once the lever hits the handlebar, it
    doesn't matter how much harder you squeeze it.

    Given the typical level of maintenance these bikes received, coupled
    with the (yuck!) steel rims,

    :-) yeah.

    Quoted message said:

    the result was very often brakes that
    barely worked dry, and became utterly useless in the wet.

    Quite. Mine are pretty much like that, which is why I'm extremely
    cautious if I occasionally have to ride (short distances) in those
    conditions. The old steel rims are definitely death traps in wet
    weather, brake extensions or not! :-)

    Quoted message said:


    There is actually a fix for this even with the Dia Compes. You see it
    sometimes on early 80s bikes, made toward the end of the popularity of
    these add-on levers. The trick is to cut a notch in the lower front
    edge of the lever body, allowing the tab of the extension lever to fit
    into the recess, and thus allowing the main lever to retract fully when
    released, as it was originally designed to.

    Good to know if I ever encounter one in the wild! Obviously, though,
    you're talking about something I've never ever seen! :-) Possibly they
    didn't make it to Oz, but I'm not the one to ask about that. Has
    anyone else here in Oz seen this type of setup?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    2. The attachment hardware precluded the use of the top of the brake
    lever hood as a comfortable riding position.

    I use this position most of the time, and it's perfectly
    comfortable. I do use riding gloves, of course, which makes it even
    more comfortable. Perhaps Sheldon is talking about really badly
    designed extensions? Who knows?

    Yes, Dia-Compe and the like. The Shimano units were much better, and
    permitted installation of rubber hoods on the levers.

    Mine are probably not as good as I imagine Shimano would be, I
    think. As I say, they do the job, and that's all.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    3. They encouraged the practice of riding with the hands on the top,
    middle section of the bar, which is a position that doesn't give
    very secure control, especially on bumpy surfaces, because the
    hands are too close together.

    This is really a silly thing to say, too. If it were true, then why
    don't *I* ride with my hands perched on the top all the time?

    All generalisations are false.

    Indeed! ;-)

    Quoted message said:


    These levers were _most_often_ used as a palliative for casual cyclists

    OK, OK, I give up! :-) You're probably right about that. You should
    mention it on the site, though. Perhaps there were a class of cyclists
    who used to overly depend on the extensions. I don't know, however, if the
    extensions can be blamed for that, _per_se_. About the only thing *I*
    would say about it is that the extensions didn't *discourage* the
    practice. The real problem here is not the extensions, I think you'll
    agree, but the fact that for these cyclists, drop bars were not the
    way to go.

    Quoted message said:

    who really didn't belong on drop handlebars, at least not without a
    tall handlebar stem.

    Occasional, casual cyclists are not usually comfortable in an
    aggressive, forward leaning posture. Back in the '70s Bike Boom, a
    great many neophytes bought drop bar 10 speeds because they were a hot
    fashion accessory, but these bikes don't fit the riding style of
    occasional, low-intensity cyclists.

    True, but part of it would have been that they just didn't have much
    of a clue. Resting on the hoods can be just as comfortable if the bike
    is the right fit (*I* find it that way anyway, and, as you know, I'm
    not a racer by any stretch of the imagination -- I'm not the sort of
    casual cyclist you're talking about either, though... averaging 36
    km/hr over 5 km to the train station when I'm in a hurry, including a
    half decent hill climb and a set of traffic lights! :-) Who could beat
    that??? I ask you. [That's good for a couple dozen follow ups, at
    least...]).

    Quoted message said:


    It is not uncommon for such cyclists to _never_ ride in the drops.
    That is a sure sign that something is wrong with the fit.

    Possibly. I know a guy who rides into work every day who never uses
    the drops. So much so that one day he cut off the drops and turned the
    bars up for a more mountain-bikey sort of grip. Go figure! I suppose
    it works for him, but I like to be a bit more streamlined when I'm
    doing a bit of speed (like downhill! ;-)).

    Quoted message said:


    Many of these people would have been better served by a Raleigh three
    speed, back in the day, but that wasn't trendy enough. Most of these
    folks either gave up cycling altogether, or bought mountain bikes in
    the late '80s because they were so uncomfortable on their Bike Boom 10
    speeds.

    Quoted message said:

    Answer: I'm not an idiot, but Sheldon is apparently assuming that
    bicycle riders with brake extensions are idiots.

    No, not idiots,

    OK, I was being a bit harsh there. But you see the impression that
    your comments gave?

    Quoted message said:

    but not hard-core cyclists either. The target customer
    for these was the occasional weekend bike rider. That's not to say
    that _everybody_ who uses or likes them falls into that category, but
    like many stereotypes it has a grain of truth.

    Certainly there is some truth in that, regarding the occasional
    weekend rider. I obviously didn't see where you were referring to that
    bit of history and subculture, if it's there somewhere.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Extensions do not
    *encourage* overuse of the tops, but do make it *possible*
    to use the tops safely in more situations. This is the point of
    them. An idiot will use the tops, brakes or no brakes.

    If the handlebars are properly adjusted, the rider will use a range of
    positions according to prevailing conditions.

    Not if they're of the type we were just discussing. This sort of
    person (I'm thinking of one or two now) is rather timid and would
    stick to a top grip. They would also avoid the top of the hoods
    because of lack of strength and fear of not being able to brake. We
    get back to what we were talking about above.

    Quoted message said:

    When you see someone
    who _always_ rides on the tops, it's evident that that person's bike is
    not propperly fitted/equpped for his/her riding style.

    Such a person probably needs a mountain bike style setup.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    What Sheldon is really implying is that people can't be trusted to
    make wise use of convenience and safety features,

    I am?

    Sure you are! ;-) Didn't you know?? :-)

    Seriously, though, I was only going by what I read. If you were
    talking about a particular stereotype of rider in a particular time
    period, then obviously my conclusion is invalid. The fault consists in
    my interpreting your comments to be pertinent to present-day users of
    such equipment (an idea that I jumped to as a result of someone's
    referring to your page is if it had anything to do with the present
    day).

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    noting that
    convenience is directly related to safety when it comes to braking
    (and gear changing, too, for that matter). He is also ignoring one
    of the big benefits of drop bars: the variety of hand positions
    possible on them, which is important in reducing fatigue.

    Au contraire, it's the folks who ride all the time on the tops who are
    ignoring that benefit, usually because their bikes are not properly
    fitted.

    No argument there, except that I think it was a matter of psychology as
    much as "fitting".

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    What he
    is in fact saying, is "Don't use the tops because there are no
    brake levers there," which is a silly thing to say, when there
    *can* be levers there, and they *can* be safe.

    That would be a silly thing to say, if I actually said it. You're
    putting words into my mouth.

    Certainly am, good chap! Sorry about that! :-) It follows as a result
    of previous misunderstanding, however.

    Quoted message said:


    I would say that the top-centre position should not be used more than,
    say, 30% of riding time, and should generally be avoided on bumpy
    surfaces.

    Good advice! I also use the drop position, particularly going downhill,
    because it seems to give even greater control (in addition to less drag).

    Quoted message said:


    Modern "aero" brake levers make the top-of-the-hoods position the main
    cruising position for most riders. A little-known advantage of modern
    "aero" levers is that, due to a different location of the pivot point,
    they permit you to actually _stop_ from the hood position.

    I certainly didn't know about that one. Although I have enough
    strength to stop quite quickly from the top of the hoods hand position
    (on my decidedly non-modern levers), it's not all that easy.

    Quoted message said:

    This was
    generally not possible with the old-style levers with exposed cables,
    except for lightweight riders with very strong hands.

    That must be me. Is 64kg light? Don't know about the strong hands,
    though... just average.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    4. The hardware that held the extension levers to the main levers
    was prone to fall off.

    El cheapo brakes could be dangerous, period. Nothing surprising
    about that. It's interesting to note, though, that the brakes on my
    70s bike have never failed or fallen apart, even though they *are*
    el cheapo-ish.

    I guess that's proof. If yours never fell off, nobodys' could ever
    have fallen off. ;-)

    Oh, yes! ;-)

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Sheldon doesn't directly address the issue of power. With the
    extensions, it is possible to apply maximum dry-weather braking power
    more easily than from the top lever position.

    That was true for the old-style levers with exposed cables, but is not
    true for modern "aero" levers. See above.

    Interesting. How modern is modern, by the way? Just in case I'm in the
    market for a second hand bike.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    In that regard, the
    extensions are safer than the levers (even from the drop
    position). It's true that there is less steering control from the
    tops, but in emergency braking, one must generally stop in a straight
    line anyhow. The main point is, however, that if one is *going* to use
    the tops (i.e., take full advantage of the bars) at all, then one
    should be able to brake from that position, too.

    There are recently introduced "interrupter levers" a.k.a. "cyclocross
    levers" that give you the best of both.
    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-levers-drop.html#cross

    Yes, interesting. I can't see how they work, though! Perhaps I'm not a
    mechanical genius! :-) (Definitely not!)

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    In wet weather, with steel rims, things can get interesting.

    Indeed!

    Quoted message said:

    Obviously, extreme caution is required (not to mention avoidance of
    riding in these conditions where possible

    It never rains in Australia, does it? ;-)

    Only in the parts that don't need it so much... ;-)

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    -- I like my V brakes on
    aluminium rims, too! ;-)). In this situation, I more often use the
    drops, because I can squeeze the proverbial out of the caliper brakes
    if necessary, which can't quite be matched on the extensions (and
    certainly not from the weak top lever position).

    Try some of the modern brake levers, you'll be amazed how well they
    work from the hoods.

    No doubt I will, one day! But I wouldn't put them on my junk heap for
    two reasons: (1) they'd cost me more than the bike did; and (2) I only
    ride the junk heap so I can leave it in high risk possies, and not
    even bother locking it a lot of the time (it's better than it looks,
    though, which is the secret! ;-)).

    Occasionally, I commute 30km each way (used to do it two or three days
    a week, but I've been too lazy lately). I use my MTB with slicks for
    that. Slow, but comfy: font suspension and thicker, more shock
    absorbent tyres. (When I say slow, it is, however, still a smidgen
    faster than the train!) Sometimes I wonder how a decent road bike would
    compare. I imagine that the ride would be a lot harder, but obviously
    speed wise would be like chalk and cheese. Unfortunately, even if I
    wanted to spend the money, expensive bikes don't make practical
    commuters without secure parking.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    It is my belief that road racing cyclists who use the tops without
    braking available there are putting themselves and others in an
    unnecessarily dangerous position, and I posit that more accidents
    would be caused by that practice than from the use of extensions
    (uncool and unhip as they may be).

    Racing cyclists generally use the top-middle position primarily as a
    "time trial" position, in conditions that don't commonly require sudden
    braking. It is also used for climbing, another situation where
    instant access to the brakes is not such a major concern.

    Quoted message said:


    Note also that I use bicycles for transportation, not sport.

    Me too!

    Right on! (I think that's American! ;-))

    Quoted message said:


    Sheldon "Purveyor Of Silly Irrational Rubbish" Brown

    See, I was right about that "irrational" crack! ;-) I just think the
    bit I read needs to be clearer, given your explanations here. A couple
    of little qualifications here and there? :-)

    By the way, I read your (front brake) braking advice quite some time
    ago, and found it interesting. You're still around, so it can't be too
    bad! ;-) For me, I'm always happier applying both brakes in every
    stop, but in emergency stops most (nearly all?) of the pressure goes
    on the front brake. I naturally squeeze the front brake harder the
    faster I need to stop. It also seems to be the case that I can get the
    back wheel of the 70s 10 speed lifting off the ground a fair bit
    easier than on the MTB (a recent model).

    Happy cycling!

    David

    P.S. I liked your home-made kiddy tandems! I wish I had that sort of
    mechanical ability!

    --

    David Trudgett
    http://www.zeta.org.au/~wpower/

    Either we have hope within us or we don't, it is a dimension of
    the soul, and it's not essentially dependent on some particular
    observation of the world or estimate of the situation... Hope,
    in this deep and powerful sense, is not the same as joy that things
    are going well or willingness to invest in enterprises that are
    obviously headed for early success, but rather, an ability to work
    for something because it is good, not just because it stands a
    chance to succeed... Hope is definitely not the same thing as
    optimism. It is not the conviction that something will turn out
    well, but the certainty that something makes sense no matter
    how it turns out.

    -- Vaclav Havel

  20. David Trudgett said:

    Great to see you here! Hope I wasn't too tough on your stuff, but I
    tend to just call things how I see them.

    With, perhaps a touch of hyperbole?

    Quoted message said:

    Your elaborations here of what you had on your website are quite
    valid, of course; it's just that maybe some of those elaborations
    could perhaps make it onto the web page. I only read the pertinent
    section on brake extensions, though, so it's just possible there was
    some context I missed that may have put a slightly different spin on it.

    I've revised and expanded the entry at:

    http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html#extensionlevers

    Quoted message said:

    Some more comments below.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    "Well made" extension levers do exist (though no longer in production.)
    However, they're very uncommon, at least in the U.S. Might be
    different in Oz. Up north, the crummy Dia-Compe units originally
    designed as an add-on to Weinmann brake levers were ubiquitous in the
    late '70s and early '80s.

    I've no idea how common they are in Oz (ones that are "well made",
    that is). As you say, I doubt that they are still in production.

    Also, the ones I have at least don't appear to be "add-ons" (in the
    sense of after-market).

    So you still aren't willing to reveal what kind you have...?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Looking at Sheldon's gripes, this is how the situation pans out with
    this particular bike (plus some more general comments):

    1. The extension lever partially applied the main brake lever,
    reducing the available lever travel.

    Rubbish! I don't want lots of travel, just the opposite. If your
    levers are traveling the full possible distance, then they are way
    out of adjustment and dangerous. Don't forget that we are talking a
    reduced travel distance of about 2 or 3 mm. This point of Sheldon's
    is just irrational, full stop.

    Actually the reduced travel is probably twice that at least. These

    Perhaps on the ones you have experience with. Certainly on mine (I
    just looked), the distance is no more than 3mm. This shows, of course,
    that we are definitely talking apples and oranges here with regards to
    experience. I've seen a few of those extensions over the years (mostly
    in the 80's), and (given memory is imperfect) I certainly don't recall
    any with reduced travel of 6 mm or more. That would be quite
    noticeable.

    So, what are they?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    levers were most often used on bikes with centerpull calipers, which
    require a fair amount of cable travel. When adjusted to clear less
    than perfectly true wheels, it was not unusual for the lever to bottom
    out against the handlebar. Once the lever hits the handlebar, it
    doesn't matter how much harder you squeeze it.

    Given the typical level of maintenance these bikes received, coupled
    with the (yuck!) steel rims,

    :-) yeah.

    Quoted message said:

    the result was very often brakes that
    barely worked dry, and became utterly useless in the wet.

    Quite. Mine are pretty much like that, which is why I'm extremely
    cautious if I occasionally have to ride (short distances) in those
    conditions. The old steel rims are definitely death traps in wet
    weather, brake extensions or not! :-)

    Interesting use of the word "cautious" to describe riding a bike with
    inadequate brakes. ;-)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    These levers were _most_often_ used as a palliative for casual cyclists
    who really didn't belong on drop handlebars, at least not without a
    tall handlebar stem.

    Occasional, casual cyclists are not usually comfortable in an
    aggressive, forward leaning posture. Back in the '70s Bike Boom, a
    great many neophytes bought drop bar 10 speeds because they were a hot
    fashion accessory, but these bikes don't fit the riding style of
    occasional, low-intensity cyclists.

    True, but part of it would have been that they just didn't have much
    of a clue. Resting on the hoods can be just as comfortable if the bike
    is the right fit (*I* find it that way anyway, and, as you know, I'm
    not a racer by any stretch of the imagination -- I'm not the sort of
    casual cyclist you're talking about either, though... averaging 36
    km/hr over 5 km to the train station when I'm in a hurry, including a
    half decent hill climb and a set of traffic lights! :-) Who could beat
    that??? I ask you. [That's good for a couple dozen follow ups, at
    least...]).

    Quoted message said:

    It is not uncommon for such cyclists to _never_ ride in the drops.
    That is a sure sign that something is wrong with the fit.

    Possibly. I know a guy who rides into work every day who never uses
    the drops. So much so that one day he cut off the drops and turned the
    bars up for a more mountain-bikey sort of grip. Go figure!

    Q.E.D.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If the handlebars are properly adjusted, the rider will use a range of
    positions according to prevailing conditions.

    Not if they're of the type we were just discussing. This sort of
    person (I'm thinking of one or two now) is rather timid and would
    stick to a top grip.

    Only if the bars were too low, or too far away for them to use
    comfortably. This is the usual case with drop bars and typical stems,
    when the rider is a casual, occasional rider.

    Quoted message said:

    They would also avoid the top of the hoods
    because of lack of strength and fear of not being able to brake.

    Not being able to brake from the top of the hoods is a solved problem.
    Modern "aero" brake levers permit anybody to do this.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    When you see someone
    who _always_ rides on the tops, it's evident that that person's bike is
    not propperly fitted/equpped for his/her riding style.

    Such a person probably needs a mountain bike style setup.

    Not necessarily.

    A taller handlebar stem, or one with less forward extension would also
    do the trick. Back in the '70s, however, such stens were nearly
    impossible to find. Even today, some riders eschew such stems because
    they look un-stylish. Many non-racers ride bikes that are set up with
    a racer-type position for reasons of looks.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Sheldon doesn't directly address the issue of power. With the
    extensions, it is possible to apply maximum dry-weather braking power
    more easily than from the top lever position.

    That was true for the old-style levers with exposed cables, but is not
    true for modern "aero" levers. See above.

    Interesting. How modern is modern, by the way? Just in case I'm in the
    market for a second hand bike.

    Basically anything that runs the cables under the handlebar tape,
    though Shimanos are notably better than Dia Compes.

    Actually modern brake levers are one of the most worthwhile upgrades
    for an older bike.

    See: http://harriscyclery.com/brakes

    Sheldon "Stop!" Brown
    Newtonville, Massachusetts, USA
    +-------------------------------------------------------+
    | Military conscription is the worst form of slavery. |
    | A more enlightened age will consider it a War crime. |
    +-------------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

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