Tubular Tyre Recommendations??

Gags said:

I am in the market for a couple of tubular tyres to put on my spare set of
track wheels........my intention being to use them as a training set,
probably on both outdoor and indoor velodromes. When I got them they did
have a set of tyres on them but they are pretty old and the rubber has gone
hard and brittle and so tonight I ripped them off (consequently I now have
sore thumbs).

I am sure I can find out on the web but can someone in the know (GemmaK,
Bleve, etc) tell me, do I have to remove all of the glue residue from the
old tyres before putting new ones on and, if so, what should I use to get it
off??

I don't know, I'm sorry. I always ride clinchers.

We haven't seen you at a BBN track race yet, what's up? 🙂

Gags said:

I am in the market for a couple of tubular tyres to put on my spare set of
track wheels........my intention being to use them as a training set,
probably on both outdoor and indoor velodromes. When I got them they did
have a set of tyres on them but they are pretty old and the rubber has gone
hard and brittle and so tonight I ripped them off (consequently I now have
sore thumbs).

I am sure I can find out on the web but can someone in the know (GemmaK,
Bleve, etc) tell me, do I have to remove all of the glue residue from the
old tyres before putting new ones on and, if so, what should I use to get it
off??

I can remember GemmaK telling me that the actual gluing on takes a while as
you have to put the tyres onto the rim first to pre stretch them, prior to
actually gluing them on. My thumbs are pretty strong so hopefully I will be
able to manage OK. I noticed tonight that the tyres had a cloth rim tape
glued to them.......is this a part of the tyre or does it have to be glued
on to the rim prior to the tyre being glued on?

Also, anyone got any recommendations for what tyres and glue to buy and
where to get them at a good price. GemmaK did provide this info to me at
one stage but it is on my old computer that died and so I no longer have the
emails or the link.

Gags

hmmm...this is a personal thing, but its your neck and you need to have confidence in your gear and how its put together...

Can only speak for what I use and what goes into the gear I see.

My training tyres are Vittoria Competiton Atlanta's...got them second hand $100 a pair, new, unused... I ride them around Carnegie and sometimes on the road, also have some old Clements I use on the trackie in Fixie mode on the road...
On the Boards, Have a Mix of Vittoria Pista EvoCS and Challenge Pista Handmades...all glued with Vittoria "Mastik"
You could use repaired singles too, Walkers sell them sometimes for around $20 each... I wouldnt use them or any repaired single for that matter, but it's your call and if they suit your plans ...

As for removing and gluing...it is an art...some die hards use Shellac and it was once the case that "only" Shellac could be used on some tracks back when glues werent so good. ( There are a few who still swear by Shellac...you just have to find them, then find them in a good mood and with lots of time)... if you can't...then use a good glue.

I use Vittoria "Mastik" Professional, not cheap, works out close to $4-$5 a tube and that does one tyre... get it at your LBS.

The tape (note: its part of the tyre, not a rim tape) ...well the tape on the tyre is necessary, ...( well not always, but gives a level of comfort if your rims has spoke holes which are sharpish), but on re-glues it can cause the tyre to be a bit lumpy and might be removed to get a smoother roll if glue has built up..(I've done this on one of mine and its ok (6 months so far)

cleaning dirt and glue off the rims isnt that easy, especially if you come acrosss lousy glue or as some Tubs Ive seen (have been glued on with) " BondCrete "...sheesh...

Removing dirt and glue from the rims needs some care, use an emery board for final finishing to get the rim smooth and not damaged...some wheel mechanics use petrol to clean the rims of glue...but dont use a file !!.

When gluing you must not get glue into the spoke eyelets, ...pre-stretch the tyre on the rim, start at the top of the rim and stretch down both sides evenly as you work towards the bottom, then flip and pop...its on...needs strong thumbs...inflate to about 7 atm 105psi and leave overnight at least...then remove the tyre and apply even thin coat of glue to the rim and let dry (24hrs)(dont put tyre on yet) . Then apply a thinner coat of glue to the rim and a light brushing of glue down the centre of the tubular tape, dont get any on the cotton or silk side walls , if you do wipe off with a cloth...nothing metal...let dry for one hour, dont let get too hard...then stretch tubular over the rim (as above), inflate a little to centre it...make sure the valve is perfectly straight in the rim and take care to cement the valve area before you inflate, then inflate to 7 atm (105psi) and leave 24 hours to dry before riding...inflate to rec pressure for tyre and away you go...

Others may have a variation on this... if in doubt ...find an LBS that does track work and seek their advice. (Hampton Cycles, Ivanhoe, Kennedy etc)...

most critical thing is to ensure even glue, lumps can cause uneven glue thickness and the tube may "move" on the rim and "blow"...not pretty.

good luck and grit your teeth and go for it!!

rooman said:

Gags said:

I am in the market for a couple of tubular tyres to put on my spare set
of
track wheels........my intention being to use them as a training set,
probably on both outdoor and indoor velodromes. When I got them they
did
have a set of tyres on them but they are pretty old and the rubber has
gone
hard and brittle and so tonight I ripped them off (consequently I now
have
sore thumbs).

I am sure I can find out on the web but can someone in the know
(GemmaK,
Bleve, etc) tell me, do I have to remove all of the glue residue from
the
old tyres before putting new ones on and, if so, what should I use to
get it
off??

I can remember GemmaK telling me that the actual gluing on takes a
while as
you have to put the tyres onto the rim first to pre stretch them, prior
to
actually gluing them on. My thumbs are pretty strong so hopefully I
will be
able to manage OK. I noticed tonight that the tyres had a cloth rim
tape
glued to them.......is this a part of the tyre or does it have to be
glued
on to the rim prior to the tyre being glued on?

Also, anyone got any recommendations for what tyres and glue to buy and
where to get them at a good price. GemmaK did provide this info to me
at
one stage but it is on my old computer that died and so I no longer
have the
emails or the link.

Gags

hmmm...this is a personal thing, but its your neck and you need to have
confidence in your gear and how its put together...

Can only speak for what I use and what goes into the gear I see.

My training tyres are Vittoria C-ompetiton- Atlanta's...got them second
hand $100 a pair, new, unused... I ride them around Carnegie and
sometimes on the road, also have some old Clements I use on the trackie
in Fixie mode on the road...
On the Boards, Have a Mix of Vittoria -Pista- EvoCS and Challenge
-Pista- Handmades...all glued with Vittoria "Mastik"
You could use repaired singles too, Walkers sell them sometimes for
around $20 each... I wouldnt use them or any repaired single for that
matter, but it's your call and if they suit your plans ...

As for removing and gluing...it is an art...some die hards use Shellac
and it was once the case that "only" Shellac could be used on some
tracks back when glues werent so good. ( There are a few who still
swear by Shellac...you just have to find them, then find them in a good
mood and with lots of time)... if you can't...then use a good glue.

I use Vittoria "Mastik" Professional, not cheap, works out close to
$4-$5 a tube and that does one tyre... get it at your LBS.

The tape (note: its part of the tyre, not a rim tape) ...well the tape
on the tyre is necessary, ...( well not always, but gives a level of
comfort if your rims has spoke holes which are sharpish), but on
re-glues it can cause the tyre to be a bit lumpy and might be removed
to get a smoother roll if glue has built up..(I've done this on one of
mine and its ok (6 months so far)

cleaning dirt and glue off the rims isnt that easy, especially if you
come acrosss lousy glue or as some Tubs Ive seen (have been glued on
with) " BondCrete "...sheesh...

Removing dirt and glue from the rims needs some care, use an emery
board for final finishing to get the rim smooth and not damaged...some
wheel mechanics use petrol to clean the rims of glue...but dont use a
file !!.

When gluing you must not get glue into the spoke eyelets,
..pre-stretch the tyre on the rim, start at the top of the rim and
stretch down both sides evenly as you work towards the bottom, then
flip and pop...its on...needs strong thumbs...inflate to about 7 atm
105psi and leave overnight at least...then remove the tyre and apply
even thin coat of glue to the rim and let dry (24hrs)(dont put tyre on
yet) . Then apply a thinner coat of glue to the rim and a light
brushing of glue down the centre of the tubular tape, dont get any on
the cotton or silk side walls , if you do wipe off with a
cloth...nothing metal...let dry for one hour, dont let get too
hard...then stretch tubular over the rim (as above), inflate a little
to centre it...make sure the valve is perfectly straight in the rim and
take care to cement the valve area before you inflate, then inflate to
7 atm (105psi) and leave 24 hours to dry before riding...inflate to rec
pressure for tyre and away you go...

Others may have a variation on this... if in doubt ...find an LBS that
does track work and seek their advice. (Hampton Cycles, Ivanhoe,
Kennedy etc)...

most critical thing is to ensure even glue, lumps can cause uneven glue
thickness and the tube may "move" on the rim and "blow"...not pretty.

good luck and grit your teeth and go for it!!

I've read that you shouldn't inflate a tubular if it's not on the rim
because it can distort the shape of the tyre.
In my experience you put put the tubular on with bare feet, pushing on
the bottom of the rim with your toes and feet whilst pulling the tubular
over the top of the rim. You need strong hands and good strength. Glue
ends up everywhere but is easily cleaned off. Unless you're cycling at a
high level I wouldn't bother with tubulars, modern tyres are quite good.

Friday

"Gags" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I am in the market for a couple of tubular tyres to put on my spare set of
track wheels........my intention being to use them as a training set,
probably on both outdoor and indoor velodromes. When I got them they did
have a set of tyres on them but they are pretty old and the rubber has gone
hard and brittle and so tonight I ripped them off (consequently I now have
sore thumbs).

I am sure I can find out on the web but can someone in the know (GemmaK,
Bleve, etc) tell me, do I have to remove all of the glue residue from the
old tyres before putting new ones on and, if so, what should I use to get
it off??

I can remember GemmaK telling me that the actual gluing on takes a while
as you have to put the tyres onto the rim first to pre stretch them, prior
to actually gluing them on. My thumbs are pretty strong so hopefully I
will be able to manage OK. I noticed tonight that the tyres had a cloth
rim tape glued to them.......is this a part of the tyre or does it have to
be glued on to the rim prior to the tyre being glued on?

Also, anyone got any recommendations for what tyres and glue to buy and
where to get them at a good price. GemmaK did provide this info to me at
one stage but it is on my old computer that died and so I no longer have
the emails or the link.

Gags

Have a read of those.

< http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/mounting-tubulars.html >

< http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=101 >

The glue can be removed with acetone or even mineral turps ( make sure you
remove all residue )

I just got some nice Vittoria Pista CL tubulars off
http://www.probikekit.com , got them for under $80, they sell for around
$160 in most shops, these are only suitable for indoor timber type tracks
using them on a cement or tar track would destroy them very quickly.
I also got some cheap ( $21 ) foxonall tubulars at the same time to use as
spares for road, and for some of the club road racing, I have glued one onto
a wheel and it seems to be reasonably straight, not as good as a cheap
clincher but it should yield a smooth ride despite the wobble of the less
than perfect made tyre.

I am using some Schwalbe Stelvio tubulars that I got locally for $50 each
for club racing and opens on cement or tar, they are a cheapo road tyre and
seem to perform ok, one was reasonably straight but the one that I put on
the rear has quite a wobble, it is not affecting ride as it is only the two
tone compound that wobbles side to side a bit, no amount of twisting and
resetting it would remove it.

For training your really best to ditch the tubulars and get a set of
clinchers as they are much less hassle in the long run and to be honest
cheap clinchers are better than cheap tubulars, as the cheap tubulars do not
run very straight and tend to be lumpy.
I have clinchers that I use as training and for general club racing on
cement or tar tracks.

And some tips I got recently from my friend who has raced in many world
championship track races

As for removing tubulars off a rim lever a screw driver under it and roll it
around under the tyre to remove it easily without destroying the base tape.

And his recommended glue for track is Continental, I told him I had just
bought a tin of Vittoria and he said don't bother with it for track go and
get some Continental glue, he also suggested that I get rid of all my
tubular wheels and get clinchers.

And he also suggested that I make sure I always use tyre covers on my Pista
CL tubulars as just transporting them in a car can make the side walls fail
due to them rubbing against each other, and not to warm up on them only
race, and when fitting them to the rims do not drag the side walls over the
sides of the rims as they can pick up and damage the sidewalls.

Friday said:

snip...
Glue ends up everywhere but is easily cleaned off. Unless you're cycling at a
high level I wouldn't bother with tubulars, modern tyres are quite good.

Friday

No need to get any glue on anything other than where it's meant to be...if you make a mess you are doing it wrong... the glue has to first dry (24hrs)on the rim, then a thin ...empahasis thin, coat on rim and tyre, let dry about an hour, it will be touch dry.

Friday...I think you should leave well enough alone! better still go see Greg Griffiths at Ivanhoe Cycles, he knows tubulars, shellac, glue and combinations for the best outcome.... if you want to ride safely, do it right...

(IMO)I am loathe to race against anyone using High Pressures on the track...why...generally most HP users overinflate, they have a flat and the tube comes off the rim at speed...bad news for everyone...Tubulars are glued to the rim, you can run it morer safely flat and slow down keeping some control...goes for the road and the track... tubulars just need some service support but they roll better, and are overall safer (IMO).

Sure High Pressure tires and tubes are a good option to get people going and new riders started up at a lower cost...soon when the bug bites, youll want to be refining your technique and gear, and when its down to tenths and hundreds of seconds then these choices on tubulars over HPs matter.

Gags said:

I am in the market for a couple of tubular tyres to put on my spare set of
track wheels........my intention being to use them as a training set,
probably on both outdoor and indoor velodromes. When I got them they did
have a set of tyres on them but they are pretty old and the rubber has gone
hard and brittle and so tonight I ripped them off (consequently I now have
sore thumbs).

I am sure I can find out on the web but can someone in the know (GemmaK,
Bleve, etc) tell me, do I have to remove all of the glue residue from the
old tyres before putting new ones on and, if so, what should I use to get it
off??

I can remember GemmaK telling me that the actual gluing on takes a while as
you have to put the tyres onto the rim first to pre stretch them, prior to
actually gluing them on. My thumbs are pretty strong so hopefully I will be
able to manage OK. I noticed tonight that the tyres had a cloth rim tape
glued to them.......is this a part of the tyre or does it have to be glued
on to the rim prior to the tyre being glued on?

Also, anyone got any recommendations for what tyres and glue to buy and
where to get them at a good price. GemmaK did provide this info to me at
one stage but it is on my old computer that died and so I no longer have the
emails or the link.

Gags

Gags, have you checked out fixedgearfever.com? Do a search through their forums for some excellent discussion on tyre choice, and gluing the buggers onto your rims. Here is a link to the faq on the site:

fixedgearfever.commodules.phpOpen ↗

There is also a good piece of research done on glue types (referenced somewhere on fgf). Mastik come out tops, closely followed by continental. My (vittoria) tubs are glued on with conty glue, and I have had no issue. I get my tubs from probikekit for obvious reasons.

"Friday" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In my experience you put put the tubular on with bare feet, pushing on the
bottom of the rim with your toes and feet whilst pulling the tubular over
the top of the rim. You need strong hands and good strength. Glue ends up
everywhere but is easily cleaned off.

If you have got glue everywhere you're doing it wrong....!

Good Tyre choices (from my experience) for indoor/outdoor tracks:
Continental Tempo http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=Y1256 or
Continental Competition (if your outdoor track gets glass on it):
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=Y1111
Tufo S3 Pro
http://www.bikemania.biz/Tufo_S3_PRO_Tubular_Track_and_Time_Trial_Tire_p/tufos3pro_t_tires.htm

For indoor$ only:
Tufo S3Lite
Continental Sondeclasse
Vittoria Pista http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=Y1210

The Tufo's are the roundest tyres of them all...

All the indoor-only tyres have very fragile sidewalls, and extremely poor
puncture resistance (ie you'll get a puncture wheeling your bike in the
carpark or frmo riding over a bit of gravel on the track).
The Vittoria Pista also has a very thin latex innertube which means it goes
flat pretty quickly (ie have to pump up lunchtime again at an all-day meet).
I either use Vittoria Mastic 1 (the red one), or Continental glue. For
tyres that are reglued often I prefer continental glue, it doens't build up
too thick.

I had the pleasure of watching one of the agritubel mechanics gluing on
singles last week and he used exactly the same method as me! Which is:

Prestretch tyres (preferably on spare rim, or else stretch using your feet
and hands)
Clean rim with acetone, if it has glue on it already that's OK as long as
it's not chunky/lumpy. I like a layer of glue on there already, it reacts
with new glue anyway. If you clean it properly with acetone there's no need
to do any sanding on new rims. I only sand lumps of old glue off.
Pump up tyre until it just starts turning inside out.
Use paintbrush (or continental glue applicator) to paint a thin layer on
both the rim and tyre. Go right to the edges on both. It is the edges that
give the bond its strength. Try not to gloop too much down the spoke holes
and valve hole (some wheelbuilders plug spokeholes with cork).
Let dry.
If tyre has a very absorbant rim tape (ie continental or Tufo) put on
another thin layer on the base tape.
When all is dry, put on another thin layer on the rim. Wait until it's
quite dry and not too tacky. This can be as little as 5mins for continental
glue on a warm day or over an hour for the gluggier Vittoria Mastic. If it
looks like it will be messy, it's not dry enough! The pro mechanic waited
about 10 minutes with Conti Glue :-)
Make sure the floor is clean. Clean tiles are good.
Place the wheel valve side up on the floor.
Deflate tyre and take your shoes off.
Poke valve thru valve hole - straight! & Using all your strength grip the
tyre about 20cm each side of the valve, tension the tyre as much as possible
and stretch the tyre equally on to the rim. The glue is a contact adhesive
and will stick as it lands on the rim. Keep doing a few times as you work
the tyre on you're at 20-to-4o'clock.
Turn wheel over and use your big toes to hold wheel down as you pinch/pull
the last bit of tyre and lift it onto the rim**. It's a sort of pinching,
rolling movement. If you have been stretching it on early it's pretty easy.
(**if you are working with a deep dish wheel or disk, put the valve end of
the wheel against your middle and grip the wheel with your guts by bending
over as you work the last bit of tyre on (not a good look but it works)
Pump up tyre enough so it has it's reasonable shape (about 50psi)
Spin wheel and check it's in the middle. Work the wobbles out quickly by
breaking the glue contact by rolling tyre back and forth in that section and
get the tyre back to the middle.
Pump up tyre to max.
Weight the tyre (either put it in the bike, get on and roll tyre back and
forth, or else just lean on it with all your weight section by section) to
get the maximum glue contact.
Leave for at least 8hrs (Conti glue) or 24hrs for Mastic.
Done. Use acetone to clean the floor if you left a stripe of glue behind.
Enjoy the glue fumes.

I learnt a trick from the mechanic - to get the tyres off again he didn't
ruin his thumbs... he simply worked a thin screwdriver under the tyre and
poked it out the other side. Then he grabbed onto both ends of the
screwdriver and just forced it around the rim - voi-la!

I will try that next time.
Here is the blistery result of me peeling one of my well-glued track tyres
off:
http://img11.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img10/22/IMG_1172.JPG
http://img4.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img4/29/IMG_1173.JPG

Gemm

"Gemma_k" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
<snip>

Quoted message said:

http://img11.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img10/22/IMG_1172.JPG
http://img4.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img4/29/IMG_1173.JPG

Gemm

Not a good idea to post a pic up with your mobile number shown on the Optus
bill in the background :S

"Boostland" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Gemma_k" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
<snip>

Quoted message said:

http://img11.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img10/22/IMG_1172.JPG
http://img4.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img4/29/IMG_1173.JPG

Gemm

Not a good idea to post a pic up with your mobile number shown on the
Optus bill in the background :S

Ha, Say that. But not my number, if you see the bill is for "Mr" someone.
Which I am not :-P

"Gemma_k" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Friday" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In my experience you put put the tubular on with bare feet, pushing on
the bottom of the rim with your toes and feet whilst pulling the tubular
over the top of the rim. You need strong hands and good strength. Glue
ends up everywhere but is easily cleaned off.

If you have got glue everywhere you're doing it wrong....!

Good Tyre choices (from my experience) for indoor/outdoor tracks:
Continental Tempo http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=Y1256 or
Continental Competition (if your outdoor track gets glass on it):
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=Y1111
Tufo S3 Pro
http://www.bikemania.biz/Tufo_S3_PRO_Tubular_Track_and_Time_Trial_Tire_p/tufos3pro_t_tires.htm

For indoor$ only:
Tufo S3Lite
Continental Sondeclasse
Vittoria Pista http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=Y1210

The Tufo's are the roundest tyres of them all...

All the indoor-only tyres have very fragile sidewalls, and extremely poor
puncture resistance (ie you'll get a puncture wheeling your bike in the
carpark or frmo riding over a bit of gravel on the track).
The Vittoria Pista also has a very thin latex innertube which means it
goes flat pretty quickly (ie have to pump up lunchtime again at an all-day
meet).
I either use Vittoria Mastic 1 (the red one), or Continental glue. For
tyres that are reglued often I prefer continental glue, it doens't build
up too thick.

I had the pleasure of watching one of the agritubel mechanics gluing on
singles last week and he used exactly the same method as me! Which is:

Prestretch tyres (preferably on spare rim, or else stretch using your feet
and hands)
Clean rim with acetone, if it has glue on it already that's OK as long as
it's not chunky/lumpy. I like a layer of glue on there already, it reacts
with new glue anyway. If you clean it properly with acetone there's no
need to do any sanding on new rims. I only sand lumps of old glue off.
Pump up tyre until it just starts turning inside out.
Use paintbrush (or continental glue applicator) to paint a thin layer on
both the rim and tyre. Go right to the edges on both. It is the edges
that give the bond its strength. Try not to gloop too much down the spoke
holes and valve hole (some wheelbuilders plug spokeholes with cork).
Let dry.
If tyre has a very absorbant rim tape (ie continental or Tufo) put on
another thin layer on the base tape.
When all is dry, put on another thin layer on the rim. Wait until it's
quite dry and not too tacky. This can be as little as 5mins for
continental glue on a warm day or over an hour for the gluggier Vittoria
Mastic. If it looks like it will be messy, it's not dry enough! The pro
mechanic waited about 10 minutes with Conti Glue :-)
Make sure the floor is clean. Clean tiles are good.
Place the wheel valve side up on the floor.
Deflate tyre and take your shoes off.
Poke valve thru valve hole - straight! & Using all your strength grip the
tyre about 20cm each side of the valve, tension the tyre as much as
possible and stretch the tyre equally on to the rim. The glue is a
contact adhesive and will stick as it lands on the rim. Keep doing a few
times as you work the tyre on you're at 20-to-4o'clock.
Turn wheel over and use your big toes to hold wheel down as you pinch/pull
the last bit of tyre and lift it onto the rim**. It's a sort of pinching,
rolling movement. If you have been stretching it on early it's pretty
easy. (**if you are working with a deep dish wheel or disk, put the valve
end of the wheel against your middle and grip the wheel with your guts by
bending over as you work the last bit of tyre on (not a good look but it
works)
Pump up tyre enough so it has it's reasonable shape (about 50psi)
Spin wheel and check it's in the middle. Work the wobbles out quickly by
breaking the glue contact by rolling tyre back and forth in that section
and get the tyre back to the middle.
Pump up tyre to max.
Weight the tyre (either put it in the bike, get on and roll tyre back and
forth, or else just lean on it with all your weight section by section) to
get the maximum glue contact.
Leave for at least 8hrs (Conti glue) or 24hrs for Mastic.
Done. Use acetone to clean the floor if you left a stripe of glue behind.
Enjoy the glue fumes.

I learnt a trick from the mechanic - to get the tyres off again he didn't
ruin his thumbs... he simply worked a thin screwdriver under the tyre and
poked it out the other side. Then he grabbed onto both ends of the
screwdriver and just forced it around the rim - voi-la!

I will try that next time.
Here is the blistery result of me peeling one of my well-glued track tyres
off:
http://img11.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img10/22/IMG_1172.JPG
http://img4.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img4/29/IMG_1173.JPG

Gemm

Thanks to everyone for all the tips.......I think I might end up going with
Gemma's recommendation on the Contis from PBK. Once I get off my [censored] and
get them ordered I will see how I go with fitting them.

Gags

"Gags" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Thanks to everyone for all the tips.......I think I might end up going
with Gemma's recommendation on the Contis from PBK. Once I get off my
[censored] and get them ordered I will see how I go with fitting them.

Gags

I finally finished my wheels I have been building since about 1990,
Campagnolo large flange record hubs probably made late 50's early 60's from
what I can tell from the campag catalogs, with DT spokes bought new in 1990
2 x front with 2 x chain and 3 x off side on the rear, using FIAMME tubular
rims with Vittoria pista EVO CL singles <
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=C1204 > glued on with Mastik 1 <
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=Y1217 >

I had the wheels spoked up since 1990 but never finished adjusting the
tension or dish as I stopped racing due to knee problems so I just hung the
wheels up and left them sitting for years.
I started back racing around March last year on the road and have since got
back into track racing, I entered the Sydney cup so I thought it would be a
good opportunity to get my wheels out that I started soo long ago and give
them a run, sure they are old tech but they should be fast enough for a hack
like me :P

All I need to make them look like real vintage bling is some of the Clement
Seta track tyres my old coach has sitting around from the 1960 rome Olympics
he attended.

I use some restored 1950's Airlite hubs with 32 spoke radial front and 40
spoke 3 x rear again using FIAMME tubular rims for general club racing with
some cheap 250 g Schwalbe Stelvio road singles on them.

Here are the wheels in question on my red Hillbrick at the recent Newcastle
open event.

< http://users.g-node.com.au/boostlinux/Boost@Velodrome_14-1-07.jpg >

My uncle used to race using those Airlite hubs in the 50's around the track
in Newcastle on his Magnet track bike, I first started to ride track on that
bike when I was around 16 in the mid 80's, the frame was still in good
condition until I gave it back to my cousin and it was left lying in water
and rusted out.

Boostland said:

"Gags" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Thanks to everyone for all the tips.......I think I might end up going
with Gemma's recommendation on the Contis from PBK. Once I get off my
[censored] and get them ordered I will see how I go with fitting them.

Gags

I finally finished my wheels I have been building since about 1990,
Campagnolo large flange record hubs probably made late 50's early 60's from
what I can tell from the campag catalogs, with DT spokes bought new in 1990
2 x front with 2 x chain and 3 x off side on the rear, using FIAMME tubular
rims with Vittoria pista EVO CL singles <
probikekit.comdisplay.phpOpen ↗ > glued on with Mastik 1 <
probikekit.comdisplay.phpOpen ↗ >

I had the wheels spoked up since 1990 but never finished adjusting the
tension or dish as I stopped racing due to knee problems so I just hung the
wheels up and left them sitting for years.
I started back racing around March last year on the road and have since got
back into track racing, I entered the Sydney cup so I thought it would be a
good opportunity to get my wheels out that I started soo long ago and give
them a run, sure they are old tech but they should be fast enough for a hack
like me :P

All I need to make them look like real vintage bling is some of the Clement
Seta track tyres my old coach has sitting around from the 1960 rome Olympics
he attended.

I use some restored 1950's Airlite hubs with 32 spoke radial front and 40
spoke 3 x rear again using FIAMME tubular rims for general club racing with
some cheap 250 g Schwalbe Stelvio road singles on them.

Here are the wheels in question on my red Hillbrick at the recent Newcastle
open event.

< users.g-node.com.auBoost@Velodrome 14 1 07.jpgOpen ↗ >

My uncle used to race using those Airlite hubs in the 50's around the track
in Newcastle on his Magnet track bike, I first started to ride track on that
bike when I was around 16 in the mid 80's, the frame was still in good
condition until I gave it back to my cousin and it was left lying in water
and rusted out.

Hey Boostlegend I was at the 1960 olympics (I competed in the womens high jump), which I attended with my coach who attended the 1936 olympics with his coach who's original coach was the half sister of Baron Pierre De Coubertin, father of the modern games, designer the olmypic flag in 1913 and editor in chief of Wikipedia. I think I accidentally left a pile of clement seta track tyres lying around next to the Trevi Fountain (which my best friend from grade 2 designed) while I was there trying to convince Pope Pius VI to change his strict views on marital fidelity - when in Rome eh? !!!. I used to use the setas as stretch bands to limber up before my high jumping and irish dancing events. I'm quite the michelle flatley, but that's another story.

My earlier coach - Jesus of the latter day saints - always impressed upon me (before he headed off to save the souls of countless people - something he would do most days in between training for the world sculling championships and the intergalactic biathlon deathmatches, just before heading off to improve the sistine chapel friezes with crayons) the importance of stretching.

Anyhoo, maybe your coach picked up my setas and if so can I please have them back.

"monsterman" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Boostland said:

"Gags" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

>

Thanks to everyone for all the tips.......I think I might end up

going

Quoted message said:

with Gemma's recommendation on the Contis from PBK. Once I get off my
[censored] and get them ordered I will see how I go with fitting them.

Gags

I finally finished my wheels I have been building since about 1990,
Campagnolo large flange record hubs probably made late 50's early 60's
from
what I can tell from the campag catalogs, with DT spokes bought new in
1990
2 x front with 2 x chain and 3 x off side on the rear, using FIAMME
tubular
rims with Vittoria pista EVO CL singles <
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=C1204 > glued on with Mastik
1 <
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=Y1217 >

I had the wheels spoked up since 1990 but never finished adjusting the
tension or dish as I stopped racing due to knee problems so I just hung
the
wheels up and left them sitting for years.
I started back racing around March last year on the road and have since
got
back into track racing, I entered the Sydney cup so I thought it would
be a
good opportunity to get my wheels out that I started soo long ago and
give
them a run, sure they are old tech but they should be fast enough for a
hack
like me :P

All I need to make them look like real vintage bling is some of the
Clement
Seta track tyres my old coach has sitting around from the 1960 rome
Olympics
he attended.

I use some restored 1950's Airlite hubs with 32 spoke radial front and
40
spoke 3 x rear again using FIAMME tubular rims for general club racing
with
some cheap 250 g Schwalbe Stelvio road singles on them.

Here are the wheels in question on my red Hillbrick at the recent
Newcastle
open event.

< http://users.g-node.com.au/boostlinux/Boost@Velodrome_14-1-07.jpg >

My uncle used to race using those Airlite hubs in the 50's around the
track
in Newcastle on his Magnet track bike, I first started to ride track on
that
bike when I was around 16 in the mid 80's, the frame was still in good
condition until I gave it back to my cousin and it was left lying in
water
and rusted out.

Hey Boostlegend I was at the 1960 olympics (I competed in the womens
high jump), which I attended with my coach who attended the 1936
olympics with his coach who's original coach was the half sister of
Baron Pierre De Coubertin, father of the modern games, designer the
olmypic flag in 1913 and editor in chief of Wikipedia. I think I
accidentally left a pile of clement seta track tyres lying around next
to the Trevi Fountain (which my best friend from grade 2 designed)
while I was there trying to convince Pope Pius VI to change his strict
views on marital fidelity - when in Rome eh? !!!. I used to use the
setas as stretch bands to limber up before my high jumping and irish
dancing events. I'm quite the michelle flatley, but that's another
story.

My earlier coach - Jesus of the latter day saints - always impressed
upon me (before he headed off to save the souls of countless people -
something he would do most days in between training for the world
sculling championships and the intergalactic biathlon deathmatches,
just before heading off to improve the sistine chapel friezes with
crayons) the importance of stretching.

Anyhoo, maybe your coach picked up my setas and if so can I please have
them back.

--
monsterman

I will ask next time I run into him if he found them near that fountain, I
am not sure how many he has left as my friends brothers sisters uncles best
friends dogs masters wifes nieces teacher used some when she was fighing in
WW 2 when they stormed Omaha beach as slingshots to annoy the Germans that
were guarding the bunkers.

"Boostland" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Gags" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Thanks to everyone for all the tips.......I think I might end up going
with Gemma's recommendation on the Contis from PBK. Once I get off my
[censored] and get them ordered I will see how I go with fitting them.

Gags

I finally finished my wheels I have been building since about 1990,
Campagnolo large flange record hubs probably made late 50's early 60's
from what I can tell from the campag catalogs, with DT spokes bought new
in 1990 2 x front with 2 x chain and 3 x off side on the rear, using
FIAMME tubular rims with Vittoria pista EVO CL singles <
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=C1204 > glued on with Mastik 1
< http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=Y1217 >

<snip longwinded story of a megalomaniac who was bored and waiting to calm
down after a frenzy of glue sniffing (mastik)>

Well I rode in the Sydney cup open event last night, I was graded in Div3 it
was my first time ever on Dunc Gray and my first time on a timber track.

I went out in the warm up and found myself in the bunch riding next to Shane
Kelly for the two wide warm-up session.
I was a little wobbly initially as I was not used to riding on a track so
fast and smooth, back on my home track in Newcastle it is so rough and tight
you really have to fight it so you can hold a line, it took me quite a few
laps before I got used to the track and relaxed and relaxed my grip a bit on
the bike.

After warming up on my 88.2 inch gear on my Airlite / Stelvio wheels @ 150
Psi I slapped in my freshly finished Campag / Pista Evo wheels @ 180 Psi
with a 94.5 inch gear and was ready for the first event.

It was a 7 lap scratch race with the first 3 riders going through to the
Sydney cup wheelrace final, it was a fairly easy pace and I found my self on
the front with 4 laps to go, I was not going to lead it out from that far
out so I swung up after 1/2 a lap, my friend from my club was after me in
the line and he also did 1/2 a lap then swung up.
Then with 2 laps to go the pace picked up I was down the bottom of the track
and my friend was slightly ahead above me, some riders in front swung out
wide and left a gap in front of me I started to move forward into the gap in
a attempt to overtake my friend out wide, that was starting to struggle with
the pace as he only had a 92.7 inch gear (he changed to 95.5 inch after
that).
He then decided to drop down the track as I was about 1/2 way past him, I
dropped down and quickly slowed and then sprinted around him on the outside
as he was now about 4 bike lengths off the back, I was coming around the
pack fast out wide in the last corner and managed to get around 5th place in
the end.

After that race I was a bit more confident on the track and was ready for
the next event a handicapped repechage over 7 laps, I was off 125 m and the
next rider up the track in front at about 150 m, and there was a string of
riders starting 5 m behind all the way back to scratch.
I went out hard and was on the front for about 3 laps driving the train of
riders in a attempt to catch the riders in front, I swung up and looked back
at the train and there was no gaps in it all the way back to scratch so I
had to stay up high until scratch came past, I swung down onto the back of
the line and managed to get up to speed but by this time the lactic was
really burning and I was quickly spat out the back when they picked up the
pace over the next lap.

So no place in the wheelrace final for me, so the next race for me was a
missing out race.
While we were waiting for the race I said to my friend that the way to race
a one of these races is to control it from the front, I said we should
attack at the start and move to the front and control the pace him on the
inside and me on the outside as I am stronger.

When the race started I was near the back end and immediately attacked and
went to the front outside position, he did not go with me and was stuck down
the back sprinting every lap to stay in, he lasted a few laps but then I
heard them call him out.
I stayed on the front outside until I heard there was only 3 riders left, I
slowed and dropped back to box in the 3rd rider who was on the inside on the
wheel of the guy who had been riding on the front the entire race, as we
were coming into the straight with 1 lap to go I picked up the pace and hit
the line putting the 3rd rider out.
I then rode on the outside keeping 1/2 a wheel in front of the guy on the
inside through the final bend and then pushed to the line taking the win by
about 1/2 a bike length, and winning a massive $40 :P

The state gradings were a little off as two young guys from Muswellbrook
club who race at Newcastle velodrome normally in C grade and road race
locally in D grade, were riding in Div2 compared to me riding in Div3 when I
race B grade on Newcastle track and B / A grade locally on road.
Hopefully they adjust the gradings a little and put those guys down to Div3,
and leave me in Div3 until I win some more 😉

I was very impressed with the speed of the track, and could not believe just
how fast and smooth the Vittoria Pista EVO CL tubulars were on that surface,
I think I am hooked on racing on that track and am seriously considering
paying the late entry and racing again next weekend in the Clarence St cup.