While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
this will have on the rubber tube.
Australia and New Zealand · Public discussion
trueing a wheel
Thread navigation
Jump through the discussion
Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.
Thread details
What we know about this thread
- Original section
- Australia and New Zealand
- Published
- 20 July 2007
- Last activity
- 22 July 2007
- Original author
- Email address hidden
- Posts
- 9
- Discussion status
- Public discussion
- Total views
- 563
- Views / 30 days
- 0
- Topics
The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.
-
-
Quoted message said:
While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
this will have on the rubber tube.If the threads are rusty then maybe the spokes are getting on anyway
and it may be time to replace them. Bought in bulk from a decent bike
shop you should be able to get new spokes for one or two dollars each,
depending on the type and brand.On the subject of wheel truing, you might be interested in a look at
my inexpensive home made wheel truing stand:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8793655@N05/Travis
-
Quoted message said:
While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
this will have on the rubber tube.wirebrush the rust away.
drop of oil on the end of the spoke
wd40/? if you prefer
if you can not turn the spoke nipple, then cut it out and take both
pieces to LBS for a replacement (good luck with imperial to metric).if rim is really rusty, wire brush, then killrust primer.
A few layers of electrical tape makes a good replacement for the rubber
tube protector.Rust on the outside of the steel rims is great. Improves breaking in the
wet.<now why do I know too much information about steel rims {:-)>
Quoted message said:
-
"Terryc" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
this will have on the rubber tube.wirebrush the rust away.
drop of oil on the end of the spoke
wd40/? if you prefer
if you can not turn the spoke nipple, then cut it out and take both pieces to LBS for a replacement (good luck with imperial to
metric).if rim is really rusty, wire brush, then killrust primer.
A few layers of electrical tape makes a good replacement for the rubber tube protector.
Rust on the outside of the steel rims is great. Improves breaking in the wet.
<now why do I know too much information about steel rims {:-)>
I recall a famous debate between Terry and Chas Coin at Newcastle Cycleways, "some time ago".
Chas toured via credit card, motels, Shimano top of the line all alloy.
Terry was a "Man of Steel".
He is now a man of experience (and probably still a fair bit of steel as well).
Tomasso.
-
Tomasso said:
I recall a famous debate between Terry and Chas Coin at Newcastle
Cycleways, "some time ago".Chas toured via credit card, motels, Shimano top of the line all alloy.
Terry didn't have a credit card or a Job at BHP to pay for it either {:-).
Quoted message said:
Terry was a "Man of Steel".He is now a man of experience (and probably still a fair bit of steel as
well).Yes, Alloy buckles too easily under the junk I tend to cart.
lol
CC touring is just one end of the extreme. Just doesn't work too well in
many parts of Australia. -
Tomasso said:
"Terryc" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
this will have on the rubber tube.Quoted message said:
wirebrush the rust away.
drop of oil on the end of the spoke
wd40/? if you prefer
if you can not turn the spoke nipple, then cut it out and take both pieces to LBS for a replacement (good luck with imperial to
metric).Quoted message said:
if rim is really rusty, wire brush, then killrust primer.
Quoted message said:
A few layers of electrical tape makes a good replacement for the rubber tube protector.
Quoted message said:
Rust on the outside of the steel rims is great. Improves breaking in the wet.
Quoted message said:
<now why do I know too much information about steel rims {:-)>
I recall a famous debate between Terry and Chas Coin at Newcastle Cycleways, "some time ago".
Chas toured via credit card, motels, Shimano top of the line all alloy.
Terry was a "Man of Steel".
He is now a man of experience (and probably still a fair bit of steel as well).
Tomasso.
Sadly, Charles is no longer with us (passed away in 2000) and cannot
respond for himself. He might have responded that some of his kit was
Swiss DT, not Shimano.Donga
-
Donga said:
Sadly, Charles is no longer with us (passed away in 2000) and cannot
respond for himself. He might have responded that some of his kit was
Swiss DT, not Shimano.Err, when did Swiss DT become available?
I think it was Suntour or Shimano back in those days, but then I was a
financially challenged student and that stuff might have been over my
head and pocket.I still consider those MSR bicycle helmets that Chas imported as very
good, especially in winter. It is just that the foam has deteriorated so
badly it rattles on my head. -
"Donga" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Tomasso said:
"Terryc" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
[email hidden] wrote:
> While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
> on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
> not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
> this will have on the rubber tube.Quoted message said:
wirebrush the rust away.
drop of oil on the end of the spoke
wd40/? if you prefer
if you can not turn the spoke nipple, then cut it out and take both pieces to LBS for a replacement (good luck with imperial to
metric).Quoted message said:
if rim is really rusty, wire brush, then killrust primer.
Quoted message said:
A few layers of electrical tape makes a good replacement for the rubber tube protector.
Quoted message said:
Rust on the outside of the steel rims is great. Improves breaking in the wet.
Quoted message said:
<now why do I know too much information about steel rims {:-)>
I recall a famous debate between Terry and Chas Coin at Newcastle Cycleways, "some time ago".
Chas toured via credit card, motels, Shimano top of the line all alloy.
Terry was a "Man of Steel".
He is now a man of experience (and probably still a fair bit of steel as well).
Tomasso.
Sadly, Charles is no longer with us (passed away in 2000) and cannot
respond for himself. He might have responded that some of his kit was
Swiss DT, not Shimano.May he rest in peace.
On DT, I thought they were spokes and wheels, and checking on the web that
seems to be the story...From what I remember of Chas's bike, it was Shimano 600 (now Ultegra). The
debate was in about 1979 (ie, +/- 1 year). In those days, a six cog cluster was
the state of the art, and a few seven cog clusters were used by pros. Getting a
triple chain wheel was only done after deep thought (and I never thought that
deep).I think Terry's bike was 28 pounds!!! [Memory test].
Tomasso.
Quoted message said:
Donga
-
Tomasso said:
I think Terry's bike was 28 pounds!!! [Memory test].
Dang, I'd love it to be that light again.
Last time I weighed the current treadly (mtb), 26kg comes to mind
(includes 6kg of sla battery) and 2.25" tyresIf it was ~1979, it must have been the Oxford frame I purchased from Ray
Hadley at Adamstown (his original shop). My notes[1] show I didn't get
the Apollo 2 frame[2] until Aug 1982. I probably purchased my first TA
triple sometime in between. First bit of aluminium on the bicycle.At some time after, a 56-40-28 combo was worth $73, but that was my
third TA triple (and the note isn't dated)[1] All my bicycle & touring notes/records sit in a filing cabinet at
my elbow. It is the only reason I "remember" this.Well, most of it. If the trip logs were locatable, I could tell when I
was silly enough to fit a 56 chainwheel to a touring bicycle. It was my
3rd Armidale to the coast trip and it was for the purpose of roaring
down the hill, across the longitudinally planked bridges and getting up
as far as possible up the other side before the hill climbing grind started.Total waste of time as about that time they changed all the "Give Way"
signs for the single lane bridges to the Armidale side and there was
always a car on the other side.[2] I remember buying this, then sizing and marking 5 water bottle
positions on it and taking it to my LBS at Gosford for brazeons to be
fitted. Then I painted it. "Lol, the look of horrow on his face when he
later saw the paint job. Rough and slappy. "You know it is a good frame,
I know it is a good frame, but I don't need to tell a thief it is a good
frame". Continue to fool quite a few people for another decade.
Active in the last 60 minutes
Active in this thread
0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total
No signed-in users are active right now.
No known search crawlers active right now.