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trueing a wheel

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
20 July 2007
Last activity
22 July 2007
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  1. While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
    on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
    not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
    this will have on the rubber tube.

  2. Quoted message said:

    While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
    on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
    not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
    this will have on the rubber tube.

    If the threads are rusty then maybe the spokes are getting on anyway
    and it may be time to replace them. Bought in bulk from a decent bike
    shop you should be able to get new spokes for one or two dollars each,
    depending on the type and brand.

    On the subject of wheel truing, you might be interested in a look at
    my inexpensive home made wheel truing stand:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/8793655@N05/

    Travis

  3. Quoted message said:

    While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
    on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
    not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
    this will have on the rubber tube.

    wirebrush the rust away.
    drop of oil on the end of the spoke
    wd40/? if you prefer
    if you can not turn the spoke nipple, then cut it out and take both
    pieces to LBS for a replacement (good luck with imperial to metric).

    if rim is really rusty, wire brush, then killrust primer.

    A few layers of electrical tape makes a good replacement for the rubber
    tube protector.

    Rust on the outside of the steel rims is great. Improves breaking in the
    wet.

    <now why do I know too much information about steel rims {:-)>

    Quoted message said:


  4. "Terryc" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
    on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
    not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
    this will have on the rubber tube.

    wirebrush the rust away.
    drop of oil on the end of the spoke
    wd40/? if you prefer
    if you can not turn the spoke nipple, then cut it out and take both pieces to LBS for a replacement (good luck with imperial to
    metric).

    if rim is really rusty, wire brush, then killrust primer.

    A few layers of electrical tape makes a good replacement for the rubber tube protector.

    Rust on the outside of the steel rims is great. Improves breaking in the wet.

    <now why do I know too much information about steel rims {:-)>

    I recall a famous debate between Terry and Chas Coin at Newcastle Cycleways, "some time ago".

    Chas toured via credit card, motels, Shimano top of the line all alloy.

    Terry was a "Man of Steel".

    He is now a man of experience (and probably still a fair bit of steel as well).

    Tomasso.

  5. Tomasso said:


    I recall a famous debate between Terry and Chas Coin at Newcastle
    Cycleways, "some time ago".

    Chas toured via credit card, motels, Shimano top of the line all alloy.

    Terry didn't have a credit card or a Job at BHP to pay for it either {:-).

    Quoted message said:


    Terry was a "Man of Steel".

    He is now a man of experience (and probably still a fair bit of steel as
    well).

    Yes, Alloy buckles too easily under the junk I tend to cart.

    lol

    CC touring is just one end of the extreme. Just doesn't work too well in
    many parts of Australia.

  6. Tomasso said:

    "Terryc" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
    on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
    not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
    this will have on the rubber tube.

    Quoted message said:

    wirebrush the rust away.
    drop of oil on the end of the spoke
    wd40/? if you prefer
    if you can not turn the spoke nipple, then cut it out and take both pieces to LBS for a replacement (good luck with imperial to
    metric).

    Quoted message said:

    if rim is really rusty, wire brush, then killrust primer.

    Quoted message said:

    A few layers of electrical tape makes a good replacement for the rubber tube protector.

    Quoted message said:

    Rust on the outside of the steel rims is great. Improves breaking in the wet.

    Quoted message said:

    <now why do I know too much information about steel rims {:-)>

    I recall a famous debate between Terry and Chas Coin at Newcastle Cycleways, "some time ago".

    Chas toured via credit card, motels, Shimano top of the line all alloy.

    Terry was a "Man of Steel".

    He is now a man of experience (and probably still a fair bit of steel as well).

    Tomasso.

    Sadly, Charles is no longer with us (passed away in 2000) and cannot
    respond for himself. He might have responded that some of his kit was
    Swiss DT, not Shimano.

    Donga

  7. Donga said:

    Sadly, Charles is no longer with us (passed away in 2000) and cannot
    respond for himself. He might have responded that some of his kit was
    Swiss DT, not Shimano.

    Err, when did Swiss DT become available?

    I think it was Suntour or Shimano back in those days, but then I was a
    financially challenged student and that stuff might have been over my
    head and pocket.

    I still consider those MSR bicycle helmets that Chas imported as very
    good, especially in winter. It is just that the foam has deteriorated so
    badly it rattles on my head.

  8. "Donga" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Tomasso said:

    "Terryc" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    [email hidden] wrote:
    > While trueing my wheels doing I discovered that the threads
    > on some of my spokes had corroded, making it difficult, if
    > not impossible, to adjust them. I am unsure what effect
    > this will have on the rubber tube.

    Quoted message said:

    wirebrush the rust away.
    drop of oil on the end of the spoke
    wd40/? if you prefer
    if you can not turn the spoke nipple, then cut it out and take both pieces to LBS for a replacement (good luck with imperial to
    metric).

    Quoted message said:

    if rim is really rusty, wire brush, then killrust primer.

    Quoted message said:

    A few layers of electrical tape makes a good replacement for the rubber tube protector.

    Quoted message said:

    Rust on the outside of the steel rims is great. Improves breaking in the wet.

    Quoted message said:

    <now why do I know too much information about steel rims {:-)>

    I recall a famous debate between Terry and Chas Coin at Newcastle Cycleways, "some time ago".

    Chas toured via credit card, motels, Shimano top of the line all alloy.

    Terry was a "Man of Steel".

    He is now a man of experience (and probably still a fair bit of steel as well).

    Tomasso.

    Sadly, Charles is no longer with us (passed away in 2000) and cannot
    respond for himself. He might have responded that some of his kit was
    Swiss DT, not Shimano.

    May he rest in peace.

    On DT, I thought they were spokes and wheels, and checking on the web that
    seems to be the story...

    From what I remember of Chas's bike, it was Shimano 600 (now Ultegra). The
    debate was in about 1979 (ie, +/- 1 year). In those days, a six cog cluster was
    the state of the art, and a few seven cog clusters were used by pros. Getting a
    triple chain wheel was only done after deep thought (and I never thought that
    deep).

    I think Terry's bike was 28 pounds!!! [Memory test].

    Tomasso.

    Quoted message said:

    Donga

  9. Tomasso said:

    I think Terry's bike was 28 pounds!!! [Memory test].

    Dang, I'd love it to be that light again.
    Last time I weighed the current treadly (mtb), 26kg comes to mind
    (includes 6kg of sla battery) and 2.25" tyres

    If it was ~1979, it must have been the Oxford frame I purchased from Ray
    Hadley at Adamstown (his original shop). My notes[1] show I didn't get
    the Apollo 2 frame[2] until Aug 1982. I probably purchased my first TA
    triple sometime in between. First bit of aluminium on the bicycle.

    At some time after, a 56-40-28 combo was worth $73, but that was my
    third TA triple (and the note isn't dated)

    [1] All my bicycle & touring notes/records sit in a filing cabinet at
    my elbow. It is the only reason I "remember" this.

    Well, most of it. If the trip logs were locatable, I could tell when I
    was silly enough to fit a 56 chainwheel to a touring bicycle. It was my
    3rd Armidale to the coast trip and it was for the purpose of roaring
    down the hill, across the longitudinally planked bridges and getting up
    as far as possible up the other side before the hill climbing grind started.

    Total waste of time as about that time they changed all the "Give Way"
    signs for the single lane bridges to the Armidale side and there was
    always a car on the other side.

    [2] I remember buying this, then sizing and marking 5 water bottle
    positions on it and taking it to my LBS at Gosford for brazeons to be
    fitted. Then I painted it. "Lol, the look of horrow on his face when he
    later saw the paint job. Rough and slappy. "You know it is a good frame,
    I know it is a good frame, but I don't need to tell a thief it is a good
    frame". Continue to fool quite a few people for another decade.

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