What is the mechanical/technical difference between a triple and double front derailleur? I happened to get ahold of a real gem of a bike but it's a triple...don't need/want triple. Trying to get to double at lowest cost w/out compromising performance.
What is the mechanical/technical difference between a triple and double front derailleur? I happened to get ahold of a real gem of a bike but it's a triple...don't need/want triple. Trying to get to double at lowest cost w/out compromising performance.
-- Joe
Longer, wider cage, no dragging of the chain when in small ring, longer arms for longer, farther travel per cable pull to get all the way to the outer ring.
What is the mechanical/technical difference between a triple and double front derailleur? I happened to get ahold of a real gem of a bike but it's a triple...don't need/want triple. Trying to get to double at lowest cost w/out compromising performance.
-- Joe
The cheapest way would be to not use the inner ring. No cost!
Your shifters are designed to move the FD cage that exter distance and you could drop the chain often.
On 7 Sep 2006 05:36:16 -0700, "Joe Dewberry" <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
Hi,
What is the mechanical/technical difference between a triple and double front derailleur? I happened to get ahold of a real gem of a bike but it's a triple...don't need/want triple. Trying to get to double at lowest cost w/out compromising performance.
Are you racing this bike? Do you need the weight savings? Afraid that a triple will damage your street cred?
If the answer to the three above questions is no, then leave the triple. You can go with a close ratio cassette, and use the small ring only if/when needed.
I'm assuming that the bike in question is a road bike, here are two examples of modern day front derailleurs.
What is the mechanical/technical difference between a triple and double front derailleur? I happened to get ahold of a real gem of a bike but it's a triple...don't need/want triple. Trying to get to double at lowest cost w/out compromising performance.
If you want to, you can remove the inner ring and reset the FD limit screw. Instant double. Or, you can leave the inner ring in place and take Jeff Starr's excellent advice regarding triples and a close ratio cassette. And keep in mind that the inner ring and the bolts holding it in place only weigh about 4 ounces.
What is the mechanical/technical difference between a triple and double front derailleur? I happened to get ahold of a real gem of a bike but it's a triple...don't need/want triple. Trying to get to double at lowest cost w/out compromising performance.
-- Joe
The cheapest way would be to not use the inner ring. No cost!
Your shifters are designed to move the FD cage that exter distance and you could drop the chain often.
What is the mechanical/technical difference between a triple and double front derailleur?
One minor difference: triples have a deeper inner plate so they require a bigger difference in size between the middle and big chainrings than a double requires between its chainrings.
What is the mechanical/technical difference between a triple and double front derailleur?
One minor difference: triples have a deeper inner plate so they require a bigger difference in size between the middle and big chainrings than a double requires between its chainrings.
That ain't necessarily so. Even if you are talking about half-step gearing, there have been half step capable FDs (e.g., the Shimano FD-M735, 650 and 550) for use in a "half step plus granny" setup. In the case the OP is asking about, I'm pretty sure we're looking at crossover gearing, so we can probably expect a 10T (or more) difference in the factory setup.
That ain't necessarily so. Even if you are talking about half-step gearing, there have been half step capable FDs (e.g., the Shimano FD-M735, 650 and 550) for use in a "half step plus granny" setup.
That's interesting. I've been looking for a FD that can do this. My current setup is 24-36-48 with an LX (M581) and I'd like to close the gap between middle and top just a little.
That ain't necessarily so. Even if you are talking about half-step gearing, there have been half step capable FDs (e.g., the Shimano FD-M735, 650 and 550) for use in a "half step plus granny" setup.
That's interesting. I've been looking for a FD that can do this. My current setup is 24-36-48 with an LX (M581) and I'd like to close the gap between middle and top just a little.
How close do you want the big and middle rings to be?
That's interesting. I've been looking for a FD that can do this. My current setup is 24-36-48 with an LX (M581) and I'd like to close the gap between middle and top just a little.
How close do you want the big and middle rings to be?
Just a smidge. 24-38-48 perhaps. Or 24-36-46 and use smaller sprockets at the back.
My original idea was to keep it wide at the front and narrow at the back to minimise overlap. Looked good on paper, but I find that I don't use the middle ring very much, it tops out too soon. Of course it could be that I'm taking the Shimano figures too seriously.