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Trek 5500 reviews?

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Road Cycling
Published
21 June 2004
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24 June 2004
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Rivermist
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  1. Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

  2. "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

    Nope ... nobody here.

    It's the Toyota Camry of bicycles. Go on a century ride and
    probably 40% of the riders are on Trek 5500s.

    You can't go wrong with a Trek 5500. I've had three. I
    crashed one and another got wiped out when a car hit me.
    They're light and durable and handle well. The ride is
    stiff, but smooth. Actually, if there's one knock on the
    bike, it's that the ride is a little ... dull. I didn't
    understand what people meant by that until I bought a nice
    aluminum/carbon frame. It just seems livelier and zippier in
    ways that are hard to define.

    But the Trek 5500 is a very fine bike with a very fine
    pedigree. It's definately a fast bike. It's also a
    comfortable bike for long rides. And lastly, it's backed by
    Trek who, for the most part, is pretty decent to deal with
    if you have warranty issues.

    Bob C.

  3. I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat
    chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it for
    free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes. They
    can't repaint to the original unless it is in the same
    year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the paint,
    missed spots and this paint chipped off. If you like a well
    finished bike look for another brand. I sold the frame
    cheap went for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but
    kind of soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few
    that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets
    paid to ride Trek.

    "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

  4. "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...

    Quoted message said:

    I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat
    chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it for
    free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes. They
    can't repaint to the original unless it is in


    the

    Quoted message said:

    same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the
    paint, missed


    spots

    Quoted message said:

    and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished
    bike look for another brand. I sold the frame cheap went
    for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but kind of
    soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few that
    look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid
    to ride Trek.

    "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

    Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.

    I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is
    lacking. I just don't care much about that. The bike is a
    solid performer and the company stands behind it.

    One additional point ... relative to many bikes these
    days, the 5500 is a decent value. That's quite relative,
    but I do believe they offer a lot for the money versus
    many other brands.

    Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride a
    couple of weeks ago who just got his new Project One 5900
    with DA 10 speed. I know it's not a 5500, but the paint job
    could be had for the 5500 as well and it was jaw-dropping
    gorgeous. It was these two shades off blue with swirly
    thingies and it just looked spectacular. It was about the
    coolest-looking bike I've ever seen. Didn't get an up-close
    inspection, though.

    Bob C.

  5. I think a $4000.00 bike should come with a jaw-dropping
    paint job without having to pay $650.00 more. Take a closer
    look and see what you think. My LBS had a Madone 5.9 with a
    project one finish that the customer refused because of grit
    under the paint and stickers that were 13/4 off from one end
    to the other. And by the way that bike cost $6400.00

    "psycholist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...

    Quoted message said:

    I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat
    chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it
    for free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes.
    They can't repaint to the original unless it is in


    the

    Quoted message said:

    same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the
    paint, missed


    spots

    Quoted message said:

    and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished
    bike look for another brand. I sold the frame cheap went
    for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but kind of
    soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a


    few

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets
    paid to ride


    Trek.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

    Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.

    I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is
    lacking. I just don't care much about that. The bike is a
    solid performer and the company stands behind it.

    One additional point ... relative to many bikes these
    days, the 5500 is a decent value. That's quite relative,
    but I do believe they offer a lot


    for

    Quoted message said:

    the money versus many other brands.

    Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride a
    couple of


    weeks

    Quoted message said:

    ago who just got his new Project One 5900 with DA 10
    speed. I know it's


    not

    Quoted message said:

    a 5500, but the paint job could be had for the 5500 as
    well and it was jaw-dropping gorgeous. It was these two
    shades off blue with swirly thingies and it just looked
    spectacular. It was about the coolest-looking bike I've
    ever seen. Didn't get an up-close inspection, though.

    Bob C.

  6. I had a 5500 and put 18,000 miles on it. I loved the bike.
    Very comfortable and fast. This spring I sold the 5500 and
    bought a 5900. I have 4,800 miles on the 5900 this season.
    Same thing, Very comfortable and fast. I have no regrets
    with either bike.

    Both have beautiful finishes! Have a look:
    nanandmont.comb6.jpg nanandmont.com5900 cloud
    9.jpg

    "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...

    Quoted message said:

    I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat
    chipped off, it went back to Trek and the repainted it for
    free. Very limited choice in colors and finishes. They
    can't repaint to the original unless it is in


    the

    Quoted message said:

    same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the
    paint, missed


    spots

    Quoted message said:

    and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished
    bike look for another brand. I sold the frame cheap went
    for a better finish. The ride quality is OK but kind of
    soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few that
    look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid
    to ride Trek.

    "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?


  7. "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:msLBc.87612$HG.73702@attbi_s53...

    Quoted message said:

    I think a $4000.00 bike should come with a jaw-dropping
    paint job without having to pay $650.00 more. Take a
    closer look and see what you think. My LBS had a Madone
    5.9 with a project one finish that the customer refused
    because of grit under the


    paint

    Quoted message said:

    and stickers that were 13/4 off from one end to the other.
    And by the way that bike cost $6400.00

    "psycholist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...

    Quoted message said:

    I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear
    coat chipped off,


    it

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    went back to Trek and the repainted it for free. Very
    limited choice


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    colors and finishes. They can't repaint to the
    original unless it is


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the

    Quoted message said:

    same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under
    the paint, missed


    spots

    Quoted message said:

    and this paint chipped off. If you like a well
    finished bike look for another brand. I sold the frame
    cheap went for a better finish. The


    ride

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    quality is OK but kind of soft. Go try other brands.
    There are quite a


    few

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    that look and ride much better. And remember Lance
    gets paid to ride


    Trek.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
    > Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
    >
    > Anyone have experience with that bike?

    Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.

    I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is
    lacking. I just don't care much about that. The bike is
    a solid performer and the


    company

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    stands behind it.

    One additional point ... relative to many bikes these
    days, the 5500 is


    a

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    decent value. That's quite relative, but I do believe
    they offer a lot


    for

    Quoted message said:

    the money versus many other brands.

    Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride
    a couple of


    weeks

    Quoted message said:

    ago who just got his new Project One 5900 with DA 10
    speed. I know it's


    not

    Quoted message said:

    a 5500, but the paint job could be had for the 5500 as
    well and it was jaw-dropping gorgeous. It was these two
    shades off blue with swirly thingies and it just looked
    spectacular. It was about the


    coolest-looking

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    bike I've ever seen. Didn't get an up-close inspection,
    though.

    Bob C.

    You paid $4,000 for yours?!!!!??

    Bob C.

  8. In article <15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01>, "Rivermist" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

    The 5500 is an OCLV 120 frameset just like the 5200 , which
    IMNSHO is the best buy for the buck.

    The difference is Durace 10s versus Ultegra.

    Take a look at the Calfee Luna Pro for truly custom CF.

    HAND

    --
    ³Freedom Is a Light for Which Many Have Died in Darkness³

    - Tomb of the unknown - American Revolution

  9. Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good
    advice. I'm 6" 2" and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing
    about 40 lbs. I have two bikes. One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6
    (26" wheels"😉 and the other is a Specialized ("Limited"😉
    Expedition (26" wheels.) I use the Bridgestone for commuting
    and the Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the
    Expedition is that due, to the heavy front suspension forks,
    the bike has no "zip" to it. So I'm considering a 3rd bike.
    My Bridgestone has a chromaly frame, w/o suspension forks
    and I actually prefer the ride -- for long distances at least--
    to my Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of the Expedition
    makes for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it
    were chromoly. But where can one find new bicycle these days
    w/ a CroMo frame that's in the price range I looking at?

    What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame, is
    < $500, w/ NO front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post
    suspension) has 700cm wheels, SRAM grip shifters, and has
    handlebars that will allow me to ride in an upright position
    (a must, due to back problems). The bike would be used on a
    12 mile bike path and occasionally on the street. By the
    way, I'm wondering if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a
    problem because of my weight? - ( I won't be pulling and
    wheelies or jumping curves)

    I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a
    CroMo frame but it has been discontinued in favor of
    aluminum. Bottom line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo
    and I'm looking for a bike that different from what I
    already have. Preferably something with some zip to it. Is
    what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without
    having it done "custom?" Sure would apprecitate some input.

    Thanks Glenn

  10. Quoted message said:

    I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a
    CroMo frame but it has been discontinued in favor of
    aluminum. Bottom line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo
    and I'm looking for a bike that different from


    what

    Quoted message said:

    I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it.
    Is what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without
    having it done "custom?"


    Sure

    Quoted message said:

    would apprecitate some input.

    In a larger-sized frame, I'm rather surprised you prefer
    the "ride" of a steel frame. Why? Because, due to tubing
    diameters used on steel frames, larger-sized bikes tend to
    be a bit flexy compared to aluminum. A manufacturer *could*
    get around this, by using larger-diameter tubing, but they
    generally don't due to both the expense of using a special
    tubeset and the added weight. And, as has been often
    pointed out here, if you want a softer ride, just go to a
    bigger tire.

    At your price range (less than $500), you could start with a
    bike like the TREK 7300FX, make whatever changes you need
    to, and probably still be within your price range.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    "Glenn Civello" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good
    advice. I'm 6"


    2"

    Quoted message said:

    and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing about 40 lbs. I
    have two bikes. One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6 (26" wheels"😉
    and the other is a Specialized ("Limited"😉 Expedition (26"
    wheels.) I use the Bridgestone for commuting and the
    Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the
    Expedition is


    that

    Quoted message said:

    due, to the heavy front suspension forks, the bike has no
    "zip" to it. So I'm considering a 3rd bike. My Bridgestone
    has a chromaly frame, w/o suspension forks and I actually
    prefer the ride -- for long distances at least-- to my
    Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of the Expedition


    makes

    Quoted message said:

    for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it were
    chromoly. But where can one find new bicycle these days w/
    a CroMo frame that's in the price range I looking at?

    What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame,
    is < $500, w/ NO front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post
    suspension) has 700cm wheels,


    SRAM

    Quoted message said:

    grip shifters, and has handlebars that will allow me to
    ride in an upright position (a must, due to back
    problems). The bike would be used on a 12 mile bike path
    and occasionally on the street. By the way, I'm


    wondering

    Quoted message said:

    if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a problem because of
    my weight? -


    ( I

    Quoted message said:

    won't be pulling and wheelies or jumping curves)

    I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a
    CroMo frame but it has been discontinued in favor of
    aluminum. Bottom line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo
    and I'm looking for a bike that different from


    what

    Quoted message said:

    I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it.
    Is what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without
    having it done "custom?"


    Sure

    Quoted message said:

    would apprecitate some input.

    Thanks Glenn

  11. Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise that
    I prefer the ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that
    steel has more flex to it than aluminum. And that's why the
    aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"... every road bump and dip
    gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks B-17 saddle on my
    Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints about comfort. A
    long trip for me would be 10-12 miles, with some moderate
    hill climbing.... (actually, there is one "killer-hill" that
    I attempt to climb). The aluminum bike has heavy suspension
    forks that are necessary to cushion the stiffness of the
    aluminum ride. I don't find suspension forks necessary w/ a
    cromo. Of course, I would prefer titanium but the price is
    prohibiting in my case. I do like suspension in the
    seatpost, however. Do you (or anyone) know if there is a
    significant weight difference between that and a non-
    suspension post?

    Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the Trek
    7300FX has an aluminum frame.... darn!

    Original Message:

    Quoted message said:

    In a larger-sized frame, I'm rather surprised you prefer
    the "ride" of a steel frame. Why? Because, due to tubing
    diameters used on steel frames, larger-sized bikes tend to
    be a bit flexy compared to aluminum. A manufacturer
    *could* get around this, by using larger-diameter tubing,
    but they generally don't due to both the expense of using
    a special tubeset


    and

    Quoted message said:

    the added weight. And, as has been often pointed out here,
    if you want a softer ride, just go to a bigger tire.

    At your price range (less than $500), you could start with
    a bike like the TREK 7300FX, make whatever changes you
    need to, and probably still be


    within

    Quoted message said:

    your price range.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    "Glenn Civello" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good
    advice. I'm 6"


    2"

    Quoted message said:

    and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing about 40 lbs. I
    have two


    bikes.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6 (26" wheels"😉 and the
    other is a


    Specialized

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    ("Limited"😉 Expedition (26" wheels.) I use the
    Bridgestone for


    commuting

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    and the Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the
    Expedition is


    that

    Quoted message said:

    due, to the heavy front suspension forks, the bike has
    no "zip" to it.


    So

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I'm considering a 3rd bike. My Bridgestone has a
    chromaly frame, w/o suspension forks and I actually
    prefer the ride -- for long distances


    at

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    least-- to my Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of
    the Expedition


    makes

    Quoted message said:

    for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it were
    chromoly. But where can one find new bicycle these days
    w/ a CroMo frame that's in the price range I looking at?

    What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame,
    is < $500, w/


    NO

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post suspension) has
    700cm wheels,


    SRAM

    Quoted message said:

    grip shifters, and has handlebars that will allow me to
    ride in an


    upright

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    position (a must, due to back problems). The bike would
    be used on a


    12

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    mile bike path and occasionally on the street. By the
    way, I'm


    wondering

    Quoted message said:

    if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a problem because
    of my weight? -


    ( I

    Quoted message said:

    won't be pulling and wheelies or jumping curves)

    I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had
    a CroMo frame


    but

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    it has been discontinued in favor of aluminum. Bottom
    line is I simply prefer the ride of ChoMo and I'm
    looking for a bike that different from


    what

    Quoted message said:

    I already have. Preferably something with some zip to
    it. Is what I'm looking for impossibe, in a new bike,
    without having it done "custom?"


    Sure

    Quoted message said:

    would apprecitate some input.

    Thanks Glenn


  12. Glenn Civello said:

    Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise
    that I prefer the ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on
    that steel has more flex to it than aluminum.

    I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of the
    frame to flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy guy,
    and when I used to ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I could feel
    the bike bend a bit as I stood up to pedal.....

    Quoted message said:

    And that's why the aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"...
    every road bump and dip gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks
    B-17 saddle on my Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints
    about comfort. A long trip for me would be 10-12 miles,
    with some moderate hill climbing.... (actually, there is
    one "killer-hill" that I attempt to climb). The aluminum
    bike has heavy suspension forks that are necessary to
    cushion the stiffness of the aluminum ride. I don't find
    suspension forks necessary w/ a cromo. Of course, I would
    prefer titanium but the price is prohibiting in my case. I
    do like suspension in the seatpost, however. Do you (or
    anyone) know if there is a significant weight difference
    between that and a non-suspension post?

    There is. You're adding the complication of all the
    necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise be a
    fairly simple part.

    Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
    drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or,
    to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel,
    the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up
    for US$450, on clearance; they usually go for anywhere
    between US$500-600. If the price is right, go with it.

    Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
    NOT stupidlite ones.

    Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with
    the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops
    allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the
    brakes--and then go for a ride.

    -Luigi

    Quoted message said:


    Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the
    Trek 7300FX has an aluminum frame.... darn!

    Why not ride the bike, and then decide? In the end, it's the
    bike that you're riding, not someone else's opinion.

  13. In article <[email hidden]>,
    luigi12081 @cox.net says...

    Quoted message said:
    Glenn Civello said:

    Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise
    that I prefer the ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on
    that steel has more flex to it than aluminum.

    I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of
    the frame to flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy
    guy, and when I used to ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I
    could feel the bike bend a bit as I stood up to pedal.....

    My old Schwinn LeTour from 1979 did the same, but my
    new (last year) Fuji Touring doesn't flex at all under
    hard pedaling.

    ...

    Quoted message said:

    Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
    drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or,
    to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel,
    the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine
    up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go for anywhere
    between US$500-600. If the price is right, go with it.

    Very good suggestion.

    Quoted message said:

    Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
    NOT stupidlite ones.

    Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
    with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that the
    drops allow for

    It's even ok to put the bars *above* the saddle level if
    that's what feels best!

    Quoted message said:

    *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--
    and then go for a ride.

    --
    Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in
    the newsgroups if possible).

  14. Thank you Luigi. It's good to find out that suspension
    seatposts add significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I
    bought my Specialized Expedition the seatpost wiggled from
    side to side. Because it was still under warrantee, my LBS
    installed a non-suspension post in its place. This made my
    ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a
    suspension post. They ordered it, so by next week I should
    be riding w/ seat-post suspension. Again, my Bridgestone
    doesn't have suspension in either the forks or the
    seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of
    having a steel frame.

    Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the
    price and the low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage.
    I slipped a disc in '86 and since then reaching and leaning
    over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no problem riding a
    roadbike...
    =======

    Original message: <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if there
    is a significant weight difference between that and a non-
    suspension post?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    There is. You're adding the complication of all the
    necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise be
    a fairly simple part.

    Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
    drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or,
    to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel,
    the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine
    up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go for anywhere
    between US$500-600. If the price is right, go with it.

    Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
    NOT stupidlite ones.

    Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
    with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that the
    drops allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy access
    to the brakes--and then go for a ride.

    -Luigi

  15. The Jamis Aurora is a terrific looking, but I'll have to
    pass on it for the reasons I explained, in my last post, to
    Luigi. However, you guys got me to thinking about Jamis'
    other bikes... I see that there Coda Sport and Elite use
    cromo frames and when the '05's come out I may be able to
    get it at a good price. Anybody have any experience with
    either of these bikes?

    tinyurl.com343pk

    tinyurl.com2gjoq

    I'd have to swap-out the handle bars w/ something that has a
    comfortable rise to them.

    "Reid Priedhorsky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Luigi de Guzman said:


    Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo
    steel, the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I
    picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go
    for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right,
    go with it.

    Mine was $730 a few weeks ago. Still a good price and a
    fabulous bike, though, IMO.

    Reid

  16. Glenn Civello said:

    Thank you Luigi. It's good to find out that suspension
    seatposts add significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I
    bought my Specialized Expedition the seatpost wiggled from
    side to side. Because it was still under warrantee, my LBS
    installed a non-suspension post in its place. This made my
    ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a
    suspension post. They ordered it, so by next week I should
    be riding w/ seat-post suspension. Again, my Bridgestone
    doesn't have suspension in either the forks or the
    seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of
    having a steel frame.

    Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the
    price and the low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage.
    I slipped a disc in '86 and since then reaching and leaning
    over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no problem riding
    a roadbike...

    My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I
    don't lean over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in
    the drops.

    The marketing types insist that anything with dropped bars
    must be shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low
    handlebars. This is [censored]; handlebar height is something that
    you determine for yourself. After all, it isn't Big Mig
    riding your bike, but you.

    A decent shop should be able to accomodate your desire to
    have the handlebars at around the same level as your saddle.

    As far as price: I admit that I was stupendously lucky on
    mine, but bargains can be had on similar bikes: REI Novara
    Randonee, Fuji Touring, for instance.

    =-Luigi

    Quoted message said:

    =======

    Original message: <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if
    there is a significant weight difference between that and a
    non-suspension post?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    There is. You're adding the complication of all the
    necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise be
    a fairly simple part.

    Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels,
    drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike.
    Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo
    steel, the Jamis Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I
    picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they usually go
    for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right,
    go with it.

    Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
    NOT stupidlite ones.

    Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
    with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that
    the drops allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy
    access to the brakes--and then go for a ride.

    -Luigi


  17. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the
    price and the


    low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a
    disc in '86 and since then reaching and leaning over is
    uncomfortable. Before that I had no problem riding a
    roadbike... >>>

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I
    don't lean


    over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in the drops.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The marketing types insist that anything with dropped
    bars must be


    shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low
    handlebars. This is [censored]; handlebar height is something
    that you determine for yourself. After all, it isn't Big
    Mig riding your bike, but you.>

    I hear you Luigi but w/o trying out the bike I wouldn't take
    the chance. The one bike shop that has the Jamis line won't
    order it unless I buy it. He's got a Coda Elite in stock
    that looks good to me, but its the frame is too small. He's
    also carry's the Giant line but all are aluminum frames.
    Other bike shops in the area carry Trek, Kona, and Fuji, and
    Bianche (sp?) I'm pretty sure a Coda Elite or Coda Sport
    would work out well, if I were able to change the flat
    handlebars over to high-rise adjustable stem. I don't know
    if that's possible though (I forgot to ask the bike
    salesman) Also there a used bicycle shop in the area that
    has a pretty good selection... unfortunately, most of the
    frames are 19 inches or less. I need a 21"... 22" would be
    better. I visit that shop regularly, figuring that if I can
    something with a good frame I could upgrade the rest of the
    parts. No luck so far.... I've been looking since April.
    Thanks for all your help!

    Quoted message said:

    A decent shop should be able to accomodate your desire
    to have the handlebars at around the same level as
    your saddle.

    As far as price: I admit that I was stupendously lucky on
    mine, but bargains can be had on similar bikes: REI Novara
    Randonee, Fuji Touring, for instance.

    =-Luigi

    Quoted message said:

    =======

    Original message: <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if
    there is a significant weight difference between that and
    a non-suspension post?

    Quoted message said:

    >

    Quoted message said:

    There is. You're adding the complication of all the
    necessary springs and damping to what should otherwise
    be a fairly simple part.

    Why not go for something totally different? 700C
    wheels, drop handlebars, no suspension. You know, a
    road bike. Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you
    must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will fit the
    bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance;
    they usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the
    price is right, go with it.

    Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--
    NOT stupidlite ones.

    Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding
    with the bars too low & saddle too high, remember that
    the drops allow for *multiple* hand positions with easy
    access to the brakes--and then go for a ride.

    -Luigi

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