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Trek 5500 reviews?

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Road Cycling
Published
21 June 2004
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24 June 2004
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Rivermist
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  1. Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

  2. "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

    Nope ... nobody here.

    It's the Toyota Camry of bicycles. Go on a century ride and probably 40% of
    the riders are on Trek 5500s.

    You can't go wrong with a Trek 5500. I've had three. I crashed one and
    another got wiped out when a car hit me. They're light and durable and
    handle well. The ride is stiff, but smooth. Actually, if there's one knock
    on the bike, it's that the ride is a little ... dull. I didn't understand
    what people meant by that until I bought a nice aluminum/carbon frame. It
    just seems livelier and zippier in ways that are hard to define.

    But the Trek 5500 is a very fine bike with a very fine pedigree. It's
    definately a fast bike. It's also a comfortable bike for long rides. And
    lastly, it's backed by Trek who, for the most part, is pretty decent to
    deal with if you have warranty issues.

    Bob C.

  3. I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat chipped off, it
    went back to Trek and the repainted it for free. Very limited choice in
    colors and finishes. They can't repaint to the original unless it is in the
    same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the paint, missed spots
    and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished bike look for
    another brand. I sold the frame cheap went for a better finish. The ride
    quality is OK but kind of soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few
    that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid to ride Trek.

    "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

  4. "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...

    Quoted message said:

    I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat chipped off, it
    went back to Trek and the repainted it for free. Very limited choice in
    colors and finishes. They can't repaint to the original unless it is in


    the

    Quoted message said:

    same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the paint, missed


    spots

    Quoted message said:

    and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished bike look for
    another brand. I sold the frame cheap went for a better finish. The ride
    quality is OK but kind of soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few
    that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid to ride Trek.

    "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

    Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.

    I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is lacking. I just
    don't care much about that. The bike is a solid performer and the company
    stands behind it.

    One additional point ... relative to many bikes these days, the 5500 is a
    decent value. That's quite relative, but I do believe they offer a lot for
    the money versus many other brands.

    Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride a couple of weeks
    ago who just got his new Project One 5900 with DA 10 speed. I know it's not
    a 5500, but the paint job could be had for the 5500 as well and it was
    jaw-dropping gorgeous. It was these two shades off blue with swirly
    thingies and it just looked spectacular. It was about the coolest-looking
    bike I've ever seen. Didn't get an up-close inspection, though.

    Bob C.

  5. I think a $4000.00 bike should come with a jaw-dropping paint job without
    having to pay $650.00 more.
    Take a closer look and see what you think. My LBS had a Madone 5.9 with a
    project one finish that the customer refused because of grit under the paint
    and stickers that were 13/4 off from one end to the other. And by the way
    that bike cost $6400.00

    "psycholist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...

    Quoted message said:

    I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat chipped off, it
    went back to Trek and the repainted it for free. Very limited choice in
    colors and finishes. They can't repaint to the original unless it is in


    the

    Quoted message said:

    same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the paint, missed


    spots

    Quoted message said:

    and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished bike look for
    another brand. I sold the frame cheap went for a better finish. The ride
    quality is OK but kind of soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a


    few

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid to ride


    Trek.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

    Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.

    I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is lacking. I just
    don't care much about that. The bike is a solid performer and the company
    stands behind it.

    One additional point ... relative to many bikes these days, the 5500 is a
    decent value. That's quite relative, but I do believe they offer a lot


    for

    Quoted message said:

    the money versus many other brands.

    Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride a couple of


    weeks

    Quoted message said:

    ago who just got his new Project One 5900 with DA 10 speed. I know it's


    not

    Quoted message said:

    a 5500, but the paint job could be had for the 5500 as well and it was
    jaw-dropping gorgeous. It was these two shades off blue with swirly
    thingies and it just looked spectacular. It was about the coolest-looking
    bike I've ever seen. Didn't get an up-close inspection, though.

    Bob C.

  6. I had a 5500 and put 18,000 miles on it. I loved the bike. Very
    comfortable and fast.
    This spring I sold the 5500 and bought a 5900. I have 4,800 miles on the
    5900 this season. Same thing, Very comfortable and fast. I have no regrets
    with either bike.

    Both have beautiful finishes! Have a look:
    http://nanandmont.com/ebay/b6.jpg
    http://nanandmont.com/bike/2002/5900-cloud-9.jpg

    "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...

    Quoted message said:

    I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat chipped off, it
    went back to Trek and the repainted it for free. Very limited choice in
    colors and finishes. They can't repaint to the original unless it is in


    the

    Quoted message said:

    same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the paint, missed


    spots

    Quoted message said:

    and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished bike look for
    another brand. I sold the frame cheap went for a better finish. The ride
    quality is OK but kind of soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a few
    that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid to ride Trek.

    "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

  7. "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:msLBc.87612$HG.73702@attbi_s53...

    Quoted message said:

    I think a $4000.00 bike should come with a jaw-dropping paint job without
    having to pay $650.00 more.
    Take a closer look and see what you think. My LBS had a Madone 5.9 with a
    project one finish that the customer refused because of grit under the


    paint

    Quoted message said:

    and stickers that were 13/4 off from one end to the other. And by the way
    that bike cost $6400.00

    "psycholist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Larry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:5zKBc.129460$3x.10803@attbi_s54...

    Quoted message said:

    I had one for two years. Terrible finish. The clear coat chipped off,


    it

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    went back to Trek and the repainted it for free. Very limited choice


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    colors and finishes. They can't repaint to the original unless it is


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the

    Quoted message said:

    same year. The repainted one sucked. Left dirt under the paint, missed


    spots

    Quoted message said:

    and this paint chipped off. If you like a well finished bike look for
    another brand. I sold the frame cheap went for a better finish. The


    ride

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    quality is OK but kind of soft. Go try other brands. There are quite a


    few

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    that look and ride much better. And remember Lance gets paid to ride


    Trek.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    "Rivermist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01...
    > Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.
    >
    > Anyone have experience with that bike?

    Lance won't ride with it if he can't win with it.

    I'd also say the attention to the finishing process is lacking. I just
    don't care much about that. The bike is a solid performer and the


    company

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    stands behind it.

    One additional point ... relative to many bikes these days, the 5500 is


    a

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    decent value. That's quite relative, but I do believe they offer a lot


    for

    Quoted message said:

    the money versus many other brands.

    Oh ... one more thing, still. I was with a guy on a ride a couple of


    weeks

    Quoted message said:

    ago who just got his new Project One 5900 with DA 10 speed. I know it's


    not

    Quoted message said:

    a 5500, but the paint job could be had for the 5500 as well and it was
    jaw-dropping gorgeous. It was these two shades off blue with swirly
    thingies and it just looked spectacular. It was about the


    coolest-looking

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    bike I've ever seen. Didn't get an up-close inspection, though.

    Bob C.

    You paid $4,000 for yours?!!!!??

    Bob C.

  8. In article <15GBc.154761$Ly.126810@attbi_s01>, "Rivermist" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Am thinking about buying the Trek 5500.

    Anyone have experience with that bike?

    The 5500 is an OCLV 120 frameset just like the 5200 , which IMNSHO is the best
    buy for the buck.

    The difference is Durace 10s versus Ultegra.

    Take a look at the Calfee Luna Pro for truly custom CF.

    HAND

    --
    ³Freedom Is a Light for Which Many Have Died in Darkness³

    - Tomb of the unknown - American Revolution

  9. Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good advice. I'm 6" 2"
    and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing about 40 lbs. I have two bikes.
    One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6 (26" wheels"😉 and the other is a Specialized
    ("Limited"😉 Expedition (26" wheels.) I use the Bridgestone for commuting
    and the Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the Expedition is that
    due, to the heavy front suspension forks, the bike has no "zip" to it. So
    I'm considering a 3rd bike. My Bridgestone has a chromaly frame, w/o
    suspension forks and I actually prefer the ride -- for long distances at
    least-- to my Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of the Expedition makes
    for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it were chromoly. But
    where can one find new bicycle these days w/ a CroMo frame that's in the
    price range I looking at?

    What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame, is < $500, w/ NO
    front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post suspension) has 700cm wheels, SRAM
    grip shifters, and has handlebars that will allow me to ride in an upright
    position (a must, due to back problems). The bike would be used on a 12
    mile bike path and occasionally on the street. By the way, I'm wondering
    if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a problem because of my weight? - ( I
    won't be pulling and wheelies or jumping curves)

    I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a CroMo frame but
    it has been discontinued in favor of aluminum. Bottom line is I simply
    prefer the ride of ChoMo and I'm looking for a bike that different from what
    I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it. Is what I'm
    looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without having it done "custom?" Sure
    would apprecitate some input.

    Thanks
    Glenn

  10. Quoted message said:

    I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a CroMo frame but
    it has been discontinued in favor of aluminum. Bottom line is I simply
    prefer the ride of ChoMo and I'm looking for a bike that different from


    what

    Quoted message said:

    I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it. Is what I'm
    looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without having it done "custom?"


    Sure

    Quoted message said:

    would apprecitate some input.

    In a larger-sized frame, I'm rather surprised you prefer the "ride" of a
    steel frame. Why? Because, due to tubing diameters used on steel frames,
    larger-sized bikes tend to be a bit flexy compared to aluminum. A
    manufacturer *could* get around this, by using larger-diameter tubing, but
    they generally don't due to both the expense of using a special tubeset and
    the added weight. And, as has been often pointed out here, if you want a
    softer ride, just go to a bigger tire.

    At your price range (less than $500), you could start with a bike like the
    TREK 7300FX, make whatever changes you need to, and probably still be within
    your price range.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    "Glenn Civello" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good advice. I'm 6"


    2"

    Quoted message said:

    and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing about 40 lbs. I have two bikes.
    One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6 (26" wheels"😉 and the other is a Specialized
    ("Limited"😉 Expedition (26" wheels.) I use the Bridgestone for commuting
    and the Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the Expedition is


    that

    Quoted message said:

    due, to the heavy front suspension forks, the bike has no "zip" to it. So
    I'm considering a 3rd bike. My Bridgestone has a chromaly frame, w/o
    suspension forks and I actually prefer the ride -- for long distances at
    least-- to my Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of the Expedition


    makes

    Quoted message said:

    for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it were chromoly. But
    where can one find new bicycle these days w/ a CroMo frame that's in the
    price range I looking at?

    What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame, is < $500, w/ NO
    front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post suspension) has 700cm wheels,


    SRAM

    Quoted message said:

    grip shifters, and has handlebars that will allow me to ride in an upright
    position (a must, due to back problems). The bike would be used on a 12
    mile bike path and occasionally on the street. By the way, I'm


    wondering

    Quoted message said:

    if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a problem because of my weight? -


    ( I

    Quoted message said:

    won't be pulling and wheelies or jumping curves)

    I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a CroMo frame but
    it has been discontinued in favor of aluminum. Bottom line is I simply
    prefer the ride of ChoMo and I'm looking for a bike that different from


    what

    Quoted message said:

    I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it. Is what I'm
    looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without having it done "custom?"


    Sure

    Quoted message said:

    would apprecitate some input.

    Thanks
    Glenn

  11. Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise that I prefer the
    ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that steel has more flex to it than
    aluminum. And that's why the aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"... every
    road bump and dip gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks B-17 saddle on my
    Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints about comfort. A long trip for me
    would be 10-12 miles, with some moderate hill climbing.... (actually, there
    is one "killer-hill" that I attempt to climb). The aluminum bike has heavy
    suspension forks that are necessary to cushion the stiffness of the aluminum
    ride. I don't find suspension forks necessary w/ a cromo. Of course, I
    would prefer titanium but the price is prohibiting in my case. I do like
    suspension in the seatpost, however. Do you (or anyone) know if there is a
    significant weight difference between that and a non-suspension post?

    Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the Trek 7300FX has an
    aluminum frame.... darn!

    Original Message:

    Quoted message said:

    In a larger-sized frame, I'm rather surprised you prefer the "ride" of a
    steel frame. Why? Because, due to tubing diameters used on steel frames,
    larger-sized bikes tend to be a bit flexy compared to aluminum. A
    manufacturer *could* get around this, by using larger-diameter tubing, but
    they generally don't due to both the expense of using a special tubeset


    and

    Quoted message said:

    the added weight. And, as has been often pointed out here, if you want a
    softer ride, just go to a bigger tire.

    At your price range (less than $500), you could start with a bike like the
    TREK 7300FX, make whatever changes you need to, and probably still be


    within

    Quoted message said:

    your price range.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    "Glenn Civello" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good advice. I'm 6"


    2"

    Quoted message said:

    and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing about 40 lbs. I have two


    bikes.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6 (26" wheels"😉 and the other is a


    Specialized

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    ("Limited"😉 Expedition (26" wheels.) I use the Bridgestone for


    commuting

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    and the Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the Expedition is


    that

    Quoted message said:

    due, to the heavy front suspension forks, the bike has no "zip" to it.


    So

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I'm considering a 3rd bike. My Bridgestone has a chromaly frame, w/o
    suspension forks and I actually prefer the ride -- for long distances


    at

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    least-- to my Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of the Expedition


    makes

    Quoted message said:

    for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it were chromoly. But
    where can one find new bicycle these days w/ a CroMo frame that's in the
    price range I looking at?

    What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame, is < $500, w/


    NO

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post suspension) has 700cm wheels,


    SRAM

    Quoted message said:

    grip shifters, and has handlebars that will allow me to ride in an


    upright

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    position (a must, due to back problems). The bike would be used on a


    12

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    mile bike path and occasionally on the street. By the way, I'm


    wondering

    Quoted message said:

    if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a problem because of my weight? -


    ( I

    Quoted message said:

    won't be pulling and wheelies or jumping curves)

    I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a CroMo frame


    but

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    it has been discontinued in favor of aluminum. Bottom line is I simply
    prefer the ride of ChoMo and I'm looking for a bike that different from


    what

    Quoted message said:

    I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it. Is what I'm
    looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without having it done "custom?"


    Sure

    Quoted message said:

    would apprecitate some input.

    Thanks
    Glenn

  12. Glenn Civello said:

    Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise that I prefer the
    ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that steel has more flex to it than
    aluminum.

    I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of the frame to
    flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy guy, and when I used to
    ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I could feel the bike bend a bit as I
    stood up to pedal.....

    Quoted message said:

    And that's why the aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"... every
    road bump and dip gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks B-17 saddle on my
    Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints about comfort. A long trip for me
    would be 10-12 miles, with some moderate hill climbing.... (actually, there
    is one "killer-hill" that I attempt to climb). The aluminum bike has heavy
    suspension forks that are necessary to cushion the stiffness of the aluminum
    ride. I don't find suspension forks necessary w/ a cromo. Of course, I
    would prefer titanium but the price is prohibiting in my case. I do like
    suspension in the seatpost, however. Do you (or anyone) know if there is a
    significant weight difference between that and a non-suspension post?

    There is. You're adding the complication of all the necessary springs
    and damping to what should otherwise be a fairly simple part.

    Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
    handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
    precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
    fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
    usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
    with it.

    Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
    stupidlite ones.

    Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
    too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for
    *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
    for a ride.

    -Luigi

    Quoted message said:


    Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the Trek 7300FX has an
    aluminum frame.... darn!

    Why not ride the bike, and then decide? In the end, it's the bike
    that you're riding, not someone else's opinion.

    Quoted message said:


  13. In article <[email hidden]>, luigi12081
    @cox.net says...

    Quoted message said:
    Glenn Civello said:

    Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise that I prefer the
    ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that steel has more flex to it than
    aluminum.

    I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of the frame to
    flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy guy, and when I used to
    ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I could feel the bike bend a bit as I
    stood up to pedal.....

    My old Schwinn LeTour from 1979 did the same, but my new (last year)
    Fuji Touring doesn't flex at all under hard pedaling.

    ....

    Quoted message said:

    Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
    handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
    precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
    fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
    usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
    with it.

    Very good suggestion.

    Quoted message said:

    Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
    stupidlite ones.

    Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
    too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for

    It's even ok to put the bars *above* the saddle level if that's what
    feels best!

    Quoted message said:

    *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
    for a ride.

    --
    Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in the
    newsgroups if possible).

  14. Luigi de Guzman said:


    Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis
    Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on
    clearance; they usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the
    price is right, go with it.

    Mine was $730 a few weeks ago. Still a good price and a fabulous bike,
    though, IMO.

    Reid

  15. Thank you Luigi. It's good to find out that suspension seatposts add
    significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I bought my Specialized
    Expedition the seatpost wiggled from side to side. Because it was still
    under warrantee, my LBS installed a non-suspension post in its place. This
    made my ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a suspension
    post. They ordered it, so by next week I should be riding w/ seat-post
    suspension. Again, my Bridgestone doesn't have suspension in either the
    forks or the seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of having a
    steel frame.

    Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the price and the low
    handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a disc in '86 and since
    then reaching and leaning over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no
    problem riding a roadbike...
    =======

    Original message:
    <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if there is a significant weight
    difference between that and a non-suspension post?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    There is. You're adding the complication of all the necessary springs
    and damping to what should otherwise be a fairly simple part.

    Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
    handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
    precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
    fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
    usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
    with it.

    Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
    stupidlite ones.

    Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
    too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for
    *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
    for a ride.

    -Luigi

  16. The Jamis Aurora is a terrific looking, but I'll have to pass on it for the
    reasons I explained, in my last post, to Luigi. However, you guys got me to
    thinking about Jamis' other bikes... I see that there Coda Sport and Elite
    use cromo frames and when the '05's come out I may be able to get it at a
    good price. Anybody have any experience with either of these bikes?

    http://tinyurl.com/343pk

    http://tinyurl.com/2gjoq

    I'd have to swap-out the handle bars w/ something that has a comfortable
    rise to them.

    "Reid Priedhorsky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Luigi de Guzman said:


    Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis
    Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on
    clearance; they usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the
    price is right, go with it.

    Mine was $730 a few weeks ago. Still a good price and a fabulous bike,
    though, IMO.

    Reid

  17. Glenn Civello said:

    Thank you Luigi. It's good to find out that suspension seatposts add
    significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I bought my Specialized
    Expedition the seatpost wiggled from side to side. Because it was still
    under warrantee, my LBS installed a non-suspension post in its place. This
    made my ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a suspension
    post. They ordered it, so by next week I should be riding w/ seat-post
    suspension. Again, my Bridgestone doesn't have suspension in either the
    forks or the seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of having a
    steel frame.

    Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the price and the low
    handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a disc in '86 and since
    then reaching and leaning over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no
    problem riding a roadbike...

    My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I don't lean
    over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in the drops.

    The marketing types insist that anything with dropped bars must be
    shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low handlebars. This is
    [censored]; handlebar height is something that you determine for yourself.
    After all, it isn't Big Mig riding your bike, but you.

    A decent shop should be able to accomodate your desire to have the
    handlebars at around the same level as your saddle.

    As far as price: I admit that I was stupendously lucky on mine, but
    bargains can be had on similar bikes: REI Novara Randonee, Fuji
    Touring, for instance.

    =-Luigi

    Quoted message said:

    =======

    Original message:
    <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if there is a significant weight
    difference between that and a non-suspension post?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    There is. You're adding the complication of all the necessary springs
    and damping to what should otherwise be a fairly simple part.

    Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
    handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
    precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
    fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
    usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
    with it.

    Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
    stupidlite ones.

    Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
    too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for
    *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
    for a ride.

    -Luigi



  18. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the price and the


    low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a disc in '86 and
    since
    then reaching and leaning over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no
    problem riding a roadbike... >>>

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I don't lean


    over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in the drops. >>

    Quoted message said:

    The marketing types insist that anything with dropped bars must be


    shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low handlebars. This is
    [censored]; handlebar height is something that you determine for yourself.
    After all, it isn't Big Mig riding your bike, but you.>

    I hear you Luigi but w/o trying out the bike I wouldn't take the chance.
    The one bike shop that has the Jamis line won't order it unless I buy it.
    He's got a Coda Elite in stock that looks good to me, but its the frame is
    too small. He's also carry's the Giant line but all are aluminum frames.
    Other bike shops in the area carry Trek, Kona, and Fuji, and Bianche (sp?)
    I'm pretty sure a Coda Elite or Coda Sport would work out well, if I were
    able to change the flat handlebars over to high-rise adjustable stem. I
    don't know if that's possible though (I forgot to ask the bike salesman)
    Also there a used bicycle shop in the area that has a pretty good
    selection... unfortunately, most of the frames are 19 inches or less. I
    need a 21"... 22" would be better. I visit that shop regularly, figuring
    that if I can something with a good frame I could upgrade the rest of the
    parts. No luck so far.... I've been looking since April. Thanks for all
    your help!

    Quoted message said:

    A decent shop should be able to accomodate your desire to have the
    handlebars at around the same level as your saddle.

    As far as price: I admit that I was stupendously lucky on mine, but
    bargains can be had on similar bikes: REI Novara Randonee, Fuji
    Touring, for instance.

    =-Luigi

    Quoted message said:

    =======

    Original message:
    <snip> >> Do you (or anyone) know if there is a significant weight
    difference between that and a non-suspension post?

    Quoted message said:

    >

    Quoted message said:

    There is. You're adding the complication of all the necessary springs
    and damping to what should otherwise be a fairly simple part.

    Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
    handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
    precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
    fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
    usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
    with it.

    Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
    stupidlite ones.

    Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
    too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for
    *multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
    for a ride.

    -Luigi



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