Transition from 20 to 29, My oppinion.

I was the very same way, i freemounted on my first try and rode away
instantly, i didnt find it very hard at all, but when i got back on a 20
after riding a 28 for several monthes, i had my arms all flaily and
weird looking, so i guess the same story.

Chase

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Heh, all I have in my stable right now is a 20" freestyle and a 36"
coker. 😄 Makes for fun times!

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I don't like doing the the rollback mount much on biggerwheels. The
static mount is hop on and go, no fighting back and forth to get going
forward.

Static/jump mount is pretty much all I use with my coker.

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On a big wheel (28 or Coker) I use a sort of push-stop mount. I push
the uni forwards so that the back pedal rises, then as I put my weight
on that pedal, it stops and I can use it as a step up. It's sort of
somewhere between a static mount and a very half-hearted running
mount.

Big wheels are generally a little bit harder to mount and steer, but
much much easier to ride than small wheels. A 28 is more like a big 24
than a small Coker.

A 20 and a 28 would be a versatile pair if you could only keep two unis.

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Mikefule - The first cuckoo of unicycling

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Mikefule said:

*On a big wheel (28 or Coker) I use a sort of push-stop mount. I push
the uni forwards so that the back pedal rises, then as I put my weight
on that pedal, it stops and I can use it as a step up. It's sort of
somewhere between a static mount and a very half-hearted running
mount.
*

That's the technique I use (0n my 29-er)- that little push really does
make the static mount much easier; it's also very effective when
mounting on an uphill slope.

--
onewheeldave - Semi Skilled Unicyclist

"You can't outrun Death forever.
But you can make the [censored] work for it."

--MAJOR KORGO KORGAR,
"Last of The Lancers"
AFC 32
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The first mount I learned on my 20" was a roll back, but I realised
after joining this forum that my seat was far too low, to then I raised
it, could ride easier but not rollback mount anymore! I then learned
the step over mount (side mount?) and use this all the time.

So, when I got my 29" I used the step over mount. It works, but doesn't
seem quite right, so I've just started trying the standard mount (which
I've never used on my 20"😉 and it seems as though it'll do the trick.

Mikefule suggested a 20" and 29" was a good combination of unis to own.
I'm beginning to wonder about a 20" and a 26" though, as controlling the
29" downhill is a tad hairy at times!

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s7ev0 said:

* I'm beginning to wonder about a 20" and a 26" though, as controlling
the 29" downhill is a tad hairy at times! *

Opinions may vary, but for me, the 26 is an inbetweeny size that is
neither fish nor fowl.

A 16 is too small for anything except people of small stature, or for
novelty value.
A 20 is ideal for trials or freestyle.
A 24 is a bit more general purpose, but still nimble.
A 24 with a very fat tyre is virtually a 26 anyway.
A26...?
A 28 is a nice road uni - and has a certain "credibility" with
bicyclists because the wheel size is instantly recognisable as a road
bike size.
A 29 is a fat-tyred 28, and is good for barnstorming.
A Coker is a bomber.

So where's the 26 in that? It's heavier and less nimble than a 24, less
of a road machine than the 28, less of a barnstormer than the 29.

Better to approach the problem with fine tuning: choose appropriate
cranks, a good handle, good pedals, good shoes, and develop technique.

I ride the 28 on 110 mm cranksand find it is surprisingly good on hills
as long as I don't go too fast. It's the difference between keeping
control, and not losing control.

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Mikefule said:

*So where's the 26 in that? It's heavier and less nimble than a 24,
less of a road machine than the 28, less of a barnstormer than the
29.

Better to approach the problem with fine tuning: choose appropriate
cranks, a good handle, good pedals, good shoes, and develop
technique.
*

The biggest thing you can do to fine tune is change the tyre. The 26"
has the widest range of tyres, from fat ones that make it have loads of
roll over and boingyness like a 24" but be slightly faster due to the
significantly larger tyre, to 2.1" XC muni tyres which are more nimble
on singletrack than a heavy 24x3, although less good at hops and drops,
to narrow road tyres if you really like that sort of thing.

Set up one way, there's very little difference between a 26 and a 29,
set up the other way it's similar to a 24, but with the 26 you have a
choice of all the setups in between too, whereas on the 24 and 29 you're
really limited in tyre choice.

I'd agree with mike that the most important thing is just to get used to
the uni and get strength + control sorted. You can ride pretty much any
road downhill on a coker with 110s if you practice enough.

If I could only keep 2 unis they'd have to be the 26 and the coker. Muni
of all kinds and big wheeled road riding. What more could you want.

Joe

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Mikefule said:

*A 16 is too small for anything except people of small stature, or for
novelty value.
A 20 is ideal for trials or freestyle.
A 24 is a bit more general purpose, but still nimble.
A 24 with a very fat tyre is virtually a 26 anyway.
A26...?
A 28 is a nice road uni - and has a certain "credibility" with
bicyclists because the wheel size is instantly recognisable as a road
bike size.
A 29 is a fat-tyred 28, and is good for barnstorming.
A Coker is a bomber.
*

Damn! I -do- need the whole set!😄

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s7ev0 - ************

We fell out of trees, got cut and broke bones and teeth, and there
were no lawsuits from these accidents. They were accidents. No one was
to blame but us. Remember accidents? ~ GILD
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Mikefule said:

*On a big wheel (28 or Coker) I use a sort of push-stop mount. I push
the uni forwards so that the back pedal rises, then as I put my weight
on that pedal, it stops and I can use it as a step up. It's sort of
somewhere between a static mount and a very half-hearted running
mount.
*

doing the same thing except that, at one moment, I briefly grab the
tyre to stop it going backwards when I step on the pedal. Moreover this
helps me to be in a more forward position since those wheels tend to
have inertia to overcome.

I may be I should get rid of this tyre-grab and go on top with a more
static position? (and little hops to secure the way I seat?).

Precision : I only use long cranks (170 on Coker, 150 on 28)
I constanly UPDs with shorter cranks.

bear

--
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Mikefule said:

* A 29 is a fat-tyred 28, and is good for barnstorming.*

What does barnstorming mean?

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From a bike to 29-ner.....😄

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Thats a funny set up, though I'll probably try it. I remember after my
first coker ride at a friends house. They lent me a 24 to ride home
since I had been droppen off at his house. It took me four tries to
free mount it after having ridden a coker:eek: .

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digigal1 said:

*What does barnstorming mean? *

At one time, small travelling companies of actors and entertainers would
travel in rural districts, putting on performances in barns. These
would attract the local rural population, and be the most exciting thing
to happen in the area from one year to the next. This type of
performance was known as "barnstorming", with "storming" coming from the
military word for a sudden attack on a building. (Storming a fortress,
for example.)

In the early days of aviation, some aviators used to fly around the
United States, putting on displays of wing walking and simple
aerobatics. This was in small canvas and timber biplanes. As part of
their pre-show publicity, they would tend to do things like flying low
over ranches, startling the inhabitants, and creating interest.
(Remember, the first powered flight was only 102 years ago. Until the
1st World War (1914-18) aeroplanes were very rare indeed.)

This activity of buzzing low over ranches and barns, then putting on a
display became known as barnstorming.

Barnstorming is now used as an adjective to describe any rabble rousing
and exciting performance - often an end of conference speech by a
political leader.

I used barnstorming to describe Coker riding as an extension of the idea
of an aviator blasting past an unsuspecting populace, causing great
excitement.

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