Having picked up quite a few good ideas for walks and informed
opinion on equipment here, I thought people might enjoy a trip report
of a very pleasant (if somewhat strenuous) day spent in the Moelwyn
range and on Cnicht last Sunday.
I got to Maentwrog by quarter to twelve, parked on the little road
from Tan y Bwlch station to Croesor (SH647421), and set off down the
road towards the station, which was almost deserted despite the fine
weather. From there, a short nature trail leads down to Llyn Mair,
and after a few metres of road walking, I took a forest track
(SH655413) skirting around y Garnedd, the hill that the Ffestiniog
railway crosses in a tunnel. After a while, the path passes to the
left of a cattle grid; from here on it is really pleasant walking
through leafy forest and grassy hillside, always near the track of
the railway. I met quite a long but almost empty train near Coed y
Bleiddiau, the wolfs' wood. The beasts were not at home, though.
Carrying on along the railway track, I came through Dduallt station,
where there is a closed loop in the track to allow the railway to
gain a few metres in height. A bit further up, it becomes obvious
why this must have been built: A branch line goes straight into a
dead-end tunnel south of Tanygrisiau reservoir. They must have
decided to build the reservoir when the railway was half finished!
I can imagine how some friendly words must have been exchanged at the
time...
I had lunch on a little hill just to the south of the lake while
watching a father trying to steer his two kids around the lake
despite all the thrilling stuff such as the railway crossing or the
water gauge at the stream feeding into the reservoir.
From here my plan was to follow the RoW shown on the OS map that goes
from SH677438 near Tanygrisiau reservoir to Llyn Stwlan, the upper
lake of the pump-storage system at Tanygrisiau. However, the
only place that looks as it might be the start of a path up the hill
is just after crossing a bridge on the lakeside path. This leads
straight into very steep rocks, and it didn't look right to me. On a
previous occasion, I had already found a way up there, but that
involved very wet feet... So I just carried on towards the power
station and followed its fence up the hill - quite steep without a
path, but fairly good going. The massive dam of Llyn Stwlan can be
climbed via a path through the rocks to the left. They had managed
to drive a huge crane up the ridiculously steep access road to
the dam on the opposite side!
Approaching Bwlch Stwlan, the pass between Moelwyn Mawr and Bach, I
was surprised by quite a strong wind - it had been very calm all the
way up to Llyn Stwlan. The wind was so strong that I chickened out
of the somewhat exposed bottom end of Craigysgafn and rather went
round Moelwyn Mawr on the east side.
From the top of the path near SH663449, I went on northwards between
the quarried holes in the ground and down to Rhosydd quarry. The area
has a peculiar atmosphere to it - it feels pretty isolated, but it
must have been a very busy place in the early days of industrialisation.
These days, unfortunately, the place is dug up by motorcycles. Two of
them provided the fitting sound on Sunday afternoon, which could be
heard from far away.
Snowdon and Crib Goch firm in view, I made my way northwestward. The
RoWs on the map aren't noticeable on the ground but it is fairly easy
in good weather to head in the right direction, towards Llyn yr Adar
at SH655480. Keep to high ground; the views are great, and the
valley is cut out very deep!
I had a long rest lying in the sun and staring down Cwm Croesor, and
then moved towards Llyn yr Adar, turning left onto the long flat
Cnicht ridge just before reaching the lake. Up onto Cnicht - the
views down into Cwm Croesor getting even better from a bird's eye
perspective. On the way down from Cnicht, I must have taken a wrong
turn and found myself on the west side of the hill in frighteningly
steep terrain and without any path. At one point I had to resort to
sitting down as the places to step on were further apart than my legs
are long. From below, I could see where I should have been - got to
be more careful next time!
After the day's work was done, there remained a short and enjoyable
descent to Croesor, overlooking Tremadog bay, and a long and
exhausting slog along the road back to the car. It was rather late
(just before sunset actually), and I decided to go to Porthmadog to
get some food and drink before driving home.
It was quite an exhausting and long day, but with excellent weather
and views. I could have done without the Cnicht adventure, though...
My tracklog says I climbed 1280m although the highest point was below
700m!
--
Rudi Winter, Aberystwyth, Wales