A promise of good weather sent us scurrying NW at 7.30am on Sunday
morning, having wanted to explore this gem of a mountain for ages. As
the sun came up it was obvious that it was going to be one of those
perfect autumn days, and stops were made at Loch Glascarnoch (to
photograph the sunrise on Beinn Dearg) and Loch Droma (early morning
sunlight on An Teallach). By 9.45am we were striding along the track
from the parking area at Blughasary with clear blue sky overhead and
bright sunshine painting the surrounding hills. The track, although
wet in places, makes for quick walking as far as Loch Eadar dha
Bheinn, from where a slightly precarious set of stepping stones across
the deep outflow gives access to the E shoulder of Speicin Coinnich.
Once atop this ridge the views opened out into Coigach, with Stac
Pollaidh and Cul Beag seemingly within touching distance, Cul Mor,
Suilven and Canisp behind them, and a snow-dappled Quinag was visible
in the distance. An Teallach and the Fannich hills were silhouetted by
the morning sun, and all around lochans and burns sparkled. A
photographer's dream! The continuation upwards was made easy by large
expanses of Torridonian sandstone slabs, and as height was gained the
impressive crags of the NE face came into view. The upper section of
the ridge is imposing from below, appearing very narrow and almost
tusk-like. However in reality it's free of any difficulty and
deposited us onto a fine rocky top with breath-taking views in all
directions. The wind, until now a light breeze, stiffened enough to
require the donning of fleece jackets, and we set of down the short
narrow section of ridge that lead to the brief steep pull onto the
summit ridge proper. This starts broad and gravelly but develops a
defined crest over two intermediate little knolls. The summit itself
sits off to the N of this crest, separated from it by a wide and
shallow gravelly col of little significance, and we were soon standing
at the cairn admiring the view across the Summer Isles to Lewis. By
now the wind was seriously chilling so lunch was taken below the cairn
in the shelter of a low outcrop, and a decision made to postpone the
visit to the W top of Garbh Choireachan which overlooks the sea for a
calmer day. Instead we soaked up the scenery and some more sun from
our sheltered perch before retracing our outward route back to the
car.
This was quite simply one of my best ever hill days. Perfect weather
(bar that icy wind on top!), perfect visibility and a grand mountain
that rewards some hard work with perfect situations.
Al
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