Too much bling for commuting?

Travis said:

I'm considering a Trek 5500 which has a full Dura Ace groupset and
Bontrager X-Lite 'Aero' wheels installed (bling bling!). My one
concern is that the primary purpose of this bike will be for commuting,
fast riding will be only a secondary purpose.

Are these components, which obviously are overkill for commuting yet
will still wear out and be very expensive to replace when worn,
actually tough enough to be useful for daily riding?

I hear a lot about people getting "training bikes" with cheaper
components, presumably so they run up the long miles on a relatively
cheap 105 or Tiagra rather than having to replace a Dura Ace or Record
set too often. (There may also be a comfort factor, with some of the
more aggressive racing bikes having harsh ride quality).

Second hand bikes are cheap. I'd never consider a bike of this quality
if I had to pay full price for it. 105 would be fine. 🙂

Opinions? Comments? Insults?

You sure seem to be looking at some pricey bikes for commuting. The short answer is that you can commute on anything - I see people driving M3s and riding Fireblades to work. If you're careful about potholes, gutters and other obstacles, a high end bike will be fine. Some components, such as chains and Al cassettes do wear out faster than cheaper, heavier parts. If you can afford a bling bike for commuting, maintenence costs shouldn't concern you.

However, keep security in mind as you might not want to park a shiny thing in a public space... even if the frame is locked, people will pinch anything that isn't bolted down (even then, it is no guarantee).

Cheers,
Ritch

PS. I'll be looking for a SS soon... for commuting because I'll only be a few km away in the new job. My collection will increase to two bikes!

ritcho said:

You sure seem to be looking at some pricey bikes for commuting.

New, they're pricey. Second hand though, the bikes I'm looking at cost
no more than a brand new entry level bike. You can get a two or three
year old mid to high end full carbon fibre Dura Ace bling bike for
roughly the cost of a new Trek 1400. 🙂

Quoted message said:

The
short answer is that you can commute on anything - I see people driving
M3s and riding Fireblades to work. If you're careful about potholes,
gutters and other obstacles, a high end bike will be fine. Some
components, such as chains and Al cassettes do wear out faster than
cheaper, heavier parts. If you can afford a bling bike for commuting,
maintenence costs shouldn't concern you.

They do concern me though.

On the other hand, Dura Ace components also change hands at very low
prices second hand. Brand new unused dura ace chains routinely go at a
fraction of RRP on ebay for instance.

Quoted message said:

However, keep security in mind as you might not want to park a shiny
thing in a public space... even if the frame is locked, people will
pinch anything that isn't bolted down (even then, it is no guarantee).

There are two aspects to this. One, my workplace is quite secure. I
run my own business and can bring my bike into a storage room inside
our offices. Theft is not a risk for that bike.

On some occasions however I have to ride into the CBD. I would take my
crappy bike in on such rides (or take the train) and would be overjoyed
if someone nicked it because I've got a new for old insurance policy.
Not that I'd DELIBERATELY try to get it stolen of course. That would
be fraud.

Quoted message said:

PS. I'll be looking for a SS soon... for commuting because I'll only be
a few km away in the new job. My collection will increase to two bikes!

I assume you aren't referring to a Holden, and you're probably not
hunting Nazis to blackmail them into giving you a lift to work. So
what is an "SS"? 🙂

Take the train...pub transport operators needs your $5K...they sure dont get ours...so help them out!

rooman said:

Take the train...pub transport operators needs your $5K...they sure dont
get ours...so help them out!

I'd gladly take the train, but I don't work in the CBD. That means
buses... several of them. It takes about the same amount of time to
cycle...

Travis said:

I assume you aren't referring to a Holden, and you're probably not
hunting Nazis to blackmail them into giving you a lift to work. So
what is an "SS"? 🙂

SS = Singlespeed - no worries about shifters and derailers wearing out.

Ritch

ritcho said:

PS. I'll be looking for a SS soon... for commuting because I'll only be a few km away in the new job. My collection will increase to two bikes!

awesome! I _love_ my SS... if only it was a TCR frame.... there is something about the simplicity that grabs me...

cheers,
GPL

"Travis" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm considering a Trek 5500 which has a full Dura Ace groupset and
Bontrager X-Lite 'Aero' wheels installed (bling bling!). My one
concern is that the primary purpose of this bike will be for commuting,
fast riding will be only a secondary purpose.

Are these components, which obviously are overkill for commuting yet
will still wear out and be very expensive to replace when worn,
actually tough enough to be useful for daily riding?

I commute daily in Perth, not exactly on a bike like your proposal but a
titanium road frame, campag Centaur group, carobon "everything" (except for
ti bidon cages), Ritchey wheels that weigh 1450g, latex tubes. Not exactly
as durable as a mountain bike, but I never hit kerbs, have never hit a big
pothole yet as I keep a very good lookout, and generally look after my bike
as you would for a fairly delicate steed. And I've had no problems. Acually,
I had one problem and that was that the last, identical bike got pinched and
so the current one either lives inside my house or inside my cubicle at
work.

Quoted message said:

Opinions? Comments? Insults?

If it's within your budget, go for it. Many can't afford a bike anything
like that, and so they commute (race?) on a much cheaper, lower spec or
older bike. On the other hand, I regularly see very new, very expensive
bikes that I'm sure only go out once a weekend for 50km, and maybe a 10km
occasional commute, but their owners can afford it and it makes them happy
so that's also fine.

Cheers
David M

Travis said:

Opinions? Comments? Insults?

Hey, whatever gets you on the bike is good, but bear in mind there are much cheaper options. I used to commute on a Colnago Dream Plus, with Chorus group. After three years, the frame was pretty much thrashed. My current commuter is a home-made steel frame (Columbus Zona) with a mix of Record, Chorus, and Daytona parts. It's still expensive stuff, but this time it's tough-expensive stuff. It's even got a shiny stainless-steel rack and panniers.

If you do use the same bike for racing and commuting, it's a good idea to run separate wheels. It gets depressing replacing pro-race tyres every couple of months.

Indeed, once you've got a good practical bike, then you can go silly with your race bike, as durability is no longer so important.

Cheers,

Suzy

suzyj said:

Travis said:

Opinions? Comments? Insults?

Hey, whatever gets you on the bike is good, but bear in mind there are
much cheaper options. I used to commute on a Colnago Dream Plus, with
Chorus group. After three years, the frame was pretty much thrashed.

Can you comment/opine on whether a Trek 2300 or 5500 would suffer
similar damage from commuting?

Quoted message said:

If you do use the same bike for racing and commuting, it's a good idea
to run separate wheels. It gets depressing replacing pro-race tyres
every couple of months.

I'll probably swap my existing rims onto it for commuting then. Alex
up front, something else which the bike shop had laying around and gave
to me for free after I came in with a wheel they'd sold me which got
busted after a single ride.

Its largely the wheels I'm concerned about actually. I guess this
would be one reason not to give my Repco away to my little brother
after I get the new bike...

Quoted message said:

There are two aspects to this. One, my workplace is quite secure. I
run my own business and can bring my bike into a storage room inside
our offices. Theft is not a risk for that bike.

On some occasions however I have to ride into the CBD. I would take my
crappy bike in on such rides (or take the train) and would be overjoyed
if someone nicked it because I've got a new for old insurance policy.
Not that I'd DELIBERATELY try to get it stolen of course. That would
be fraud.

Hey I recognise you from aus.invest...

I think you should "invest" in the bling ;-)

Go on... Do It.

Jules

On 2006-03-13, suzyj (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:

Quoted message said:

If you do use the same bike for racing and commuting, it's a good idea
to run separate wheels. It gets depressing replacing pro-race tyres
every couple of months.

You mean there's cheaper tires?

I just assumed all tires were $40 from PBK, $80 from Aust. What do
people here use for *commuting*? I know you all love GP4000s, but is
that for racing, commuting, or both?

And think now in terms of someone without an income 🙂

--
TimC
Your superior intellect is no match for our puny weapons -- Simpsons

Jules said:

Quoted message said:

There are two aspects to this. One, my workplace is quite secure. I
run my own business and can bring my bike into a storage room inside
our offices. Theft is not a risk for that bike.

On some occasions however I have to ride into the CBD. I would take my
crappy bike in on such rides (or take the train) and would be overjoyed
if someone nicked it because I've got a new for old insurance policy.
Not that I'd DELIBERATELY try to get it stolen of course. That would
be fraud.

Hey I recognise you from aus.invest...

Well spotted Jules.

Quoted message said:

I think you should "invest" in the bling ;-)

Is that personal advice, or general advice? ;-)

Quoted message said:

Go on... Do It.

Just to throw things into further confusion, I'm now looking at this
one as well:

http://www.progears.net/product.php?id=24&PHPSESSID=968acaf801cb9fba4c6360db8e62ecd5

Full carbon frame, the shop selling it says it weighs only 5.5kg for
the whole bike. That's nearly a kg less than the Trek 5500. I've got
to find out if this was a typo.

105 shifters, but for commuting that's fine. Its a full carbon frame.
Unpainted carbon fibre... mmmmm *drool*

[censored] Shimano WH-R500 wheels, but even that is fine because I'd rather
break one of those than a $600 ultralight race wheel, and I can always
"invest" in an upgrade later.

$1,775, and its a brand new bike, shipping is included.

If the warranty is any good, I might even be tempted to buy it.

Quoted message said:

Just to throw things into further confusion, I'm now looking at this
one as well:

http://www.progears.net/product.php?id=24&PHPSESSID=968acaf801cb9fba4c6360db8e62ecd5

Full carbon frame, the shop selling it says it weighs only 5.5kg for
the whole bike. That's nearly a kg less than the Trek 5500. I've got
to find out if this was a typo.

105 shifters, but for commuting that's fine. Its a full carbon frame.
Unpainted carbon fibre... mmmmm *drool*

[censored] Shimano WH-R500 wheels, but even that is fine because I'd rather
break one of those than a $600 ultralight race wheel, and I can always
"invest" in an upgrade later.

$1,775, and its a brand new bike, shipping is included.

If the warranty is any good, I might even be tempted to buy it.

Wow, I didn't realize Progear did anything except the very bottom end.

Bought a "1st bike" for my girlfriend several months ago, a basic
Progear MTB that was a jaw dropping $180 brand new. Lot's of bang for
buck, but as you'd expect for the price, feels very cheap in most respects.

Still, it's doing the job and nothing has fallen off yet ;-)

Can't comment on their higher end stuff of course.

Jules

Travis:

Quoted message said:

Full carbon frame, the shop selling it says it weighs only 5.5kg for the whole bike. That's nearly a kg less than the Trek 5500. I've >got to find out if this was a typo.

Complete and utter bollocks...either a typo, barefaced lie or "forgot
my glasses and thought the 9 was a 5".
I've got some Rolex watches for sale. Want one? $100 each, or $150 for
two.

Donga said:

Travis:

Quoted message said:

Full carbon frame, the shop selling it says it weighs only 5.5kg for the whole bike. That's nearly a kg less than the Trek 5500. I've >got to find out if this was a typo.

Complete and utter bollocks...either a typo, barefaced lie or "forgot
my glasses and thought the 9 was a 5".

I think you're right. Another site says it weighs just under 8kg.
Reasonably light, but not Trek 5500 light. 🙂

Quoted message said:

I've got some Rolex watches for sale. Want one? $100 each, or $150 for
two.

How about we trade? I'll give you the title to the Sydney Harbour
Bridge, you give me the Rolexes.

Travis said:

I'm considering a Trek 5500 which has a full Dura Ace groupset and
Bontrager X-Lite 'Aero' wheels installed (bling bling!). My one
concern is that the primary purpose of this bike will be for commuting,
fast riding will be only a secondary purpose.

Are these components, which obviously are overkill for commuting yet
will still wear out and be very expensive to replace when worn,
actually tough enough to be useful for daily riding?

Yes. High end race bikes are very tough. The 5500 was the top of the
line Trek for some time, and is still a very respectable frame. The
wheels will be strong too.
The only weakness is the Dura-Ace bottom bracket, but when it wears
out, whack an Ultegra one in it. A lot cheaper, and will last longer.

Quoted message said:

I hear a lot about people getting "training bikes" with cheaper
components, presumably so they run up the long miles on a relatively
cheap 105 or Tiagra rather than having to replace a Dura Ace or Record
set too often. (There may also be a comfort factor, with some of the
more aggressive racing bikes having harsh ride quality).

An OCLV Trek is one of the more comfortable bikes around. They're
designed to ride 3,500km or so in 3 weeks (TdF). They're not a twitchy
crit-weapon.

I have a training bike (Trek 1400) and a race bike (Madone 5.2, the
equivalent is a Trek 5200), I usually just use the training bike on wet
days or on a spin trainer.

Quoted message said:

Second hand bikes are cheap. I'd never consider a bike of this quality
if I had to pay full price for it. 105 would be fine. 🙂

Opinions? Comments? Insults?

Make up yer bloody mind .. and start riding the damn thing!

"Travis" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Donga said:

Travis:

Quoted message said:

Full carbon frame, the shop selling it says it weighs only 5.5kg for the
whole bike. That's nearly a kg less than the Trek 5500. I've >got to
find out if this was a typo.

Complete and utter bollocks...either a typo, barefaced lie or "forgot
my glasses and thought the 9 was a 5".

I think you're right. Another site says it weighs just under 8kg.
Reasonably light, but not Trek 5500 light. 🙂

And if you think a trek 5500 is sub 6.5kg you're dreamin' as well 🙂
Adam

Bleve said:

Travis wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Are these components, which obviously are overkill for commuting yet
will still wear out and be very expensive to replace when worn,
actually tough enough to be useful for daily riding?

Yes. High end race bikes are very tough. The 5500 was the top of the
line Trek for some time, and is still a very respectable frame. The
wheels will be strong too.

Good. It was the wheels that worried me. Of course I can swap crappy
wheels onto it, but then what's the point of having a nice frame??

Quoted message said:

The only weakness is the Dura-Ace bottom bracket, but when it wears
out, whack an Ultegra one in it. A lot cheaper, and will last longer.

How intercompatible are the 105/Ultegra/Dura Ace bits anyway? I've
seen lots of bikes with mixed groupsets, even new ones at the LBS.

Main reason for asking is out of curiosity about how easy it would be
to change bits over. For instance if I settled on a 105 bike and then
picked up some cheap unused Dura Ace or Ultegra bits off ebay or
something, how easy would it be to swap those bits on?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I hear a lot about people getting "training bikes" with cheaper
components, presumably so they run up the long miles on a relatively
cheap 105 or Tiagra rather than having to replace a Dura Ace or Record
set too often. (There may also be a comfort factor, with some of the
more aggressive racing bikes having harsh ride quality).

An OCLV Trek is one of the more comfortable bikes around. They're
designed to ride 3,500km or so in 3 weeks (TdF). They're not a twitchy
crit-weapon.

Good to hear.

Quoted message said:

I have a training bike (Trek 1400) and a race bike (Madone 5.2, the
equivalent is a Trek 5200), I usually just use the training bike on wet
days or on a spin trainer.

What is the logic behind not using the good bike on a wet day?

Corrosion? Grime and grit being splashed into the bearings? More
likely that you'll crash?

I'll be retaining my p.o.s. bike, but I was only planning on using it
when I have to cycle somewhere with a high chance of it getting nicked.
I can't see myself buying an expensive OCLV bike and then riding
around on a p.o.s. for six months of the year out of fear of being
caught in the rain...

adam85 said:

"Travis" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

And if you think a trek 5500 is sub 6.5kg you're dreamin' as well 🙂

Here is my source for that one:

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/articles.php?ID=82

Some of the bits don't look stock though, and the frame is unpainted.