I have a Colnago CT1 I am set to use as a travel bike. I want to go to
Europe with it, but some of the tours I am looking at have roads that
apparently aren't that good. It has been suggested that I use a bike
with wider tires, like a hybrid. I'd rather not.
Question: Does anyone know how wide a tire I can safely put on my
bike? The rims are Mavic Open 4's. I run 23's now. Can I go 28 or more
for the trip?
Thanks.
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Tire width on a CT1?
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- Cycling Equipment
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- 28 May 2008
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- 5 June 2008
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- C. Ballou
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In article <[email hidden]>,
C. Ballou said:
I have a Colnago CT1 I am set to use as a travel bike. I want to go to
Europe with it, but some of the tours I am looking at have roads that
apparently aren't that good. It has been suggested that I use a bike
with wider tires, like a hybrid. I'd rather not.
Question: Does anyone know how wide a tire I can safely put on my
bike? The rims are Mavic Open 4's. I run 23's now. Can I go 28 or more
for the trip?I saw some guys going up a gravel road in the
Italian alps on 23 mm tires the other day.--
Michael Press -
C. Ballou said:
I have a Colnago CT1 I am set to use as a travel bike. I want to go to
Europe with it, but some of the tours I am looking at have roads that
apparently aren't that good. It has been suggested that I use a bike
with wider tires, like a hybrid. I'd rather not.
Question: Does anyone know how wide a tire I can safely put on my
bike? The rims are Mavic Open 4's. I run 23's now. Can I go 28 or more
for the trip?
Thanks.Only way to really tell is go to your favorite bike shop, make an
'appointment' to test tire width at THEIR convenience, take along a
sixer of the guy's favorite and put some tires on the wheels to see.
If 28c work, buy them. Try a Conti gatorskin 28 for starters. -
Michael Press said:
In article <[email hidden]>,
C. Ballou said:
I have a Colnago CT1 I am set to use as a travel bike. I want to go to
Europe with it, but some of the tours I am looking at have roads that
apparently aren't that good. It has been suggested that I use a bike
with wider tires, like a hybrid. I'd rather not.
Question: Does anyone know how wide a tire I can safely put on my
bike? The rims are Mavic Open 4's. I run 23's now. Can I go 28 or more
for the trip?I saw some guys going up a gravel road in the
Italian alps on 23 mm tires the other day.Quoted message said:
--
Michael Press -
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com said:
C. Ballou said:
I have a Colnago CT1 I am set to use as a travel bike. I want to go to
Europe with it, but some of the tours I am looking at have roads that
apparently aren't that good. It has been suggested that I use a bike
with wider tires, like a hybrid. I'd rather not.
Question: Does anyone know how wide a tire I can safely put on my
bike? The rims are Mavic Open 4's. I run 23's now. Can I go 28 or more
for the trip?
Thanks.Only way to really tell is go to your favorite bike shop, make an
'appointment' to test tire width at THEIR convenience, take along a
sixer of the guy's favorite and put some tires on the wheels to see.
If 28c work, buy them. Try a Conti gatorskin 28 for starters.Just ot add to what Peter wrote, the Gatorskin in a 28 is not only
wider than a "racing" 23, but the casing is tougher than most too, so
for poor roads, it gives both more cushioning and better resistance to
damage. If the 28 won't fit, have a look at the 25.I run the Gatorskin in a 25 year round on my commuting/winter
training/"get around" bike - tough casing, reasonable cut/puncture
protection, a bit of extra cushioning, but not so heavy as to be
noticeable.I weigh 90kg, so I'm no lightweight, but I can run the 25 at 90psi
(which gives a lot more comfort on a bad surface) without too much
risk of pinch flats.
By contrast, I need to keep the 23c Conti GP4000s tires that I use on
my racing bike above 105psi to prevent pinch flats.Purely subjectively, it feels like to 23c 4000s has less drag when
coasting than the 25c Gatorskin on the same bike, but some of that is
probably perception and expectation on my part, rather than anything
concrete.
I also think the grip from the 4000s is marginally better (back end
doesn't slip around when sprinting), but bar that I wouldn't be too
upset to do all my riding on the 25 Gatorskin.For me and the riding I do, it's a good compromise - heavy enough to
take the abuse of moderately bad surfaces, wide enough to be
comfortable, light enough not to deaden the feel of the bike. If the
surfaces were worse again, I'd be on the 28c.hth,
bookieb.
-
C. Ballou said:
I have a Colnago CT1 I am set to use as a travel bike. I want to go to
Europe with it, but some of the tours I am looking at have roads that
apparently aren't that good.
I have a CT1 myself and I just wonder if that's the bike one should ride if
roads are so bad that one needs 28mm tires.I'd rather ride a steel/full titanium bike on such a trip.
Derk
-
Derk said:
C. Ballou said:
I have a Colnago CT1 I am set to use as a travel bike. I want to go to
Europe with it, but some of the tours I am looking at have roads that
apparently aren't that good.
I have a CT1 myself and I just wonder if that's the bike one should ride if
roads are so bad that one needs 28mm tires.I'd rather ride a steel/full titanium bike on such a trip.
you're not under the impression that those materials are more durable i
hope - for fatigue, cfrp is much more resistant than either. -
jim beam said:
you're not under the impression that those materials are more durable i
hope - for fatigue, cfrp is much more resistant than either.
I read a few reports about above-average number of problems a.o. here (hope
you read German) :Written by a guy who calls himself "veld01":
http://forum.tour-magazin.de/showthread.php?t=50953&highlight=CT1
I bought one nevertheless, because I like the frame very much. Riding it on
bad roads with maybe lots of luggage is a different story. If a glued
connection ever fails while on vacation, you're in deep sh%$. There are not
*that* many Bikeshops that will give people they don't know a loaner for a
few weeks.Derk
-
jim beam said:
you're not under the impression that those materials are more durable i
hope - for fatigue, cfrp is much more resistant than either.
Let me refrase that, hoping I can make my point of view any clearer:
The CT1 is a great frame in my opinion. It's a pure-bred race frame.
I compare it to a Ferrari. Would you ever consider taking a Ferrari off-road
to participate in a rally cross? There are different kinds of cars that
are more suitable for that. That doesn't take away that a Ferrari is a
unique and great car.Do you understand what I mean?
Derk
-
quote='Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com'On May 27 said:
I have a Colnago CT1 I am set to use as a travel bike. I want to go to
Europe with it, but some of the tours I am looking at have roads that
apparently aren't that good. It has been suggested that I use a bike
with wider tires, like a hybrid. I'd rather not.
Question: Does anyone know how wide a tire I can safely put on my
bike? The rims are Mavic Open 4's. I run 23's now. Can I go 28 or more
for the trip?
Thanks.Only way to really tell is go to your favorite bike shop, make an
'appointment' to test tire width at THEIR convenience, take along a
sixer of the guy's favorite and put some tires on the wheels to see.
If 28c work, buy them. Try a Conti gatorskin 28 for starters.[/QUOTE]
+1 unless you have a support vehicle carrying spares like the race moto or your team car. -
email hidden said:
Michael Press said:
In article <[email hidden]>,
C. Ballou said:
I have a Colnago CT1 I am set to use as a travel bike. I want to go to
Europe with it, but some of the tours I am looking at have roads that
apparently aren't that good. It has been suggested that I use a bike
with wider tires, like a hybrid. I'd rather not.
Question: Does anyone know how wide a tire I can safely put on my
bike? The rims are Mavic Open 4's. I run 23's now. Can I go 28 or more
for the trip?I saw some guys going up a gravel road in the
Italian alps on 23 mm tires the other day.Quoted message said:
--
Michael PressDear Russell,
To return to the original poster's question about wider tires, those
racers on the 23 mm tires (with all the support handy that your links
show) only went _up_ the gravel road.Going up a gravel road on an unloaded racer is a much slower and
gentler proposition than going down it on a loaded touring bike.Even a racer would be likely to use wider tires if he planned to zoom
back down that gravel road, for comfort, for pinch flat resistance,
and for handling and braking.Cheers,
Carl Fogel
-
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
To return to the original poster's question about wider tires, those
racers on the 23 mm tires (with all the support handy that your links
show) only went _up_ the gravel road.Going up a gravel road on an unloaded racer is a much slower and
gentler proposition than going down it on a loaded touring bike.Even a racer would be likely to use wider tires if he planned to zoom
back down that gravel road, for comfort, for pinch flat resistance,
and for handling and braking.I ride off-road quite a bit on 23 mm road tires. I don't have a problem
since I know where and when to be careful. I do agree that the dangerous
part is going downhill on poor road surfaces with narrow smooth tires.However, I've ridden 25 mm tires as well and haven't had any problems. I'm
6'4" tall and used to weigh about 200 lbs though I've lightened up a good
deal lately. Must be spring riding. -
"Derk" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
jim beam said:
you're not under the impression that those materials are more durable i
hope - for fatigue, cfrp is much more resistant than either.
Let me refrase that, hoping I can make my point of view any clearer:
The CT1 is a great frame in my opinion. It's a pure-bred race frame.
I compare it to a Ferrari. Would you ever consider taking a Ferrari
off-road
to participate in a rally cross? There are different kinds of cars that
are more suitable for that. That doesn't take away that a Ferrari is a
unique and great car.Do you understand what I mean?
Firstly - what's the difference between your CT-1 and my Look KG241 which I
would ride anywhere?Secondly - I agree that a long wheelbase bike with large tires handles
better off-road but you can go just about anywhere on just about any street
bike if you have good judgment and sufficient experience. -
Tom Kunich said:
Firstly - what's the difference between your CT-1 and my Look KG241 which
I would ride anywhere?
It's a Colnago. ;-)Quoted message said:
Secondly - I agree that a long wheelbase bike with large tires handles
better off-road but you can go just about anywhere on just about any
street bike if you have good judgment and sufficient experience.
Of course you can ride whatever combination you want, as long as it fits.
Maybe I can climb Mt. Everest wearing Adidas shoes, but I guess I'm better
off wearing mountain shoes.Derk
-
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com said:
C. Ballou said:
I have a Colnago CT1 I am set to use as a travel bike. I want to go to
Europe with it, but some of the tours I am looking at have roads that
apparently aren't that good. It has been suggested that I use a bike
with wider tires, like a hybrid. I'd rather not.
Question: Does anyone know how wide a tire I can safely put on my
bike? The rims are Mavic Open 4's. I run 23's now. Can I go 28 or more
for the trip?
Thanks.Only way to really tell is go to your favorite bike shop, make an
'appointment' to test tire width at THEIR convenience, take along a
sixer of the guy's favorite and put some tires on the wheels to see.
If 28c work, buy them. Try a Conti gatorskin 28 for starters.Save the beer and the time. Assuming you are using foldables, measure,
record, and compare the distances between the beads across the back. I
measure 59mm on some Vittoria Pro-Teams here. Labeled as 23s, but I
know they will take up more much space than some Specialized
foldables, 700 x 25s which measure 48mm between the beads.Harry Travis
USA -
In article
<[email hidden]>,bookieb said:
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com said:
C. Ballou said:
I have a Colnago CT1 I am set to use as a travel bike. I want to go to
Europe with it, but some of the tours I am looking at have roads that
apparently aren't that good. It has been suggested that I use a bike
with wider tires, like a hybrid. I'd rather not.
Question: Does anyone know how wide a tire I can safely put on my
bike? The rims are Mavic Open 4's. I run 23's now. Can I go 28 or more
for the trip?
Thanks.Only way to really tell is go to your favorite bike shop, make an
'appointment' to test tire width at THEIR convenience, take along a
sixer of the guy's favorite and put some tires on the wheels to see.
If 28c work, buy them. Try a Conti gatorskin 28 for starters.Just ot add to what Peter wrote, the Gatorskin in a 28 is not only
wider than a "racing" 23, but the casing is tougher than most too, so
for poor roads, it gives both more cushioning and better resistance to
damage. If the 28 won't fit, have a look at the 25.I run the Gatorskin in a 25 year round on my commuting/winter
training/"get around" bike - tough casing, reasonable cut/puncture
protection, a bit of extra cushioning, but not so heavy as to be
noticeable.I weigh 90kg, so I'm no lightweight, but I can run the 25 at 90psi
(which gives a lot more comfort on a bad surface) without too much
risk of pinch flats.
By contrast, I need to keep the 23c Conti GP4000s tires that I use on
my racing bike above 105psi to prevent pinch flats.Purely subjectively, it feels like to 23c 4000s has less drag when
coasting than the 25c Gatorskin on the same bike, but some of that is
probably perception and expectation on my part, rather than anything
concrete.
I also think the grip from the 4000s is marginally better (back end
doesn't slip around when sprinting), but bar that I wouldn't be too
upset to do all my riding on the 25 Gatorskin.For me and the riding I do, it's a good compromise - heavy enough to
take the abuse of moderately bad surfaces, wide enough to be
comfortable, light enough not to deaden the feel of the bike. If the
surfaces were worse again, I'd be on the 28c.I find that it is possible to discern relatively small
differences in rolling resistance, and the your perception
is meaningful. That we _can_ discern the difference does
not mean that the marginal power dissipated is meaningful
for any riding but competitive riding.Nevertheless, I optimize for low rolling resistance and
take my chances.--
Michael Press -
Derk said:
jim beam said:
you're not under the impression that those materials are more durable i
hope - for fatigue, cfrp is much more resistant than either.
Let me refrase that, hoping I can make my point of view any clearer:
The CT1 is a great frame in my opinion. It's a pure-bred race frame.
I compare it to a Ferrari. Would you ever consider taking a Ferrari off-road
to participate in a rally cross? There are different kinds of cars that
are more suitable for that. That doesn't take away that a Ferrari is a
unique and great car.Do you understand what I mean?
Derk
sure, but that's not a materials thing, it's a dimensions thing.
regarding your other comment about repairs, you're probably better off
re-gluing a socket on your carbon frame with commercial epoxy yourself
than you are trusting your ti frame to the local welder. or even steel
frame in many cases. -
jim beam said:
Derk said:
jim beam said:
you're not under the impression that those materials are more durable i
hope - for fatigue, cfrp is much more resistant than either.
Let me refrase that, hoping I can make my point of view any clearer:
The CT1 is a great frame in my opinion. It's a pure-bred race frame.
I compare it to a Ferrari. Would you ever consider taking a Ferrari off-road
to participate in a rally cross? There are different kinds of cars that
are more suitable for that. That doesn't take away that a Ferrari is a
unique and great car.Do you understand what I mean?
Derk
sure, but that's not a materials thing, it's a dimensions thing.
regarding your other comment about repairs, you're probably better off
re-gluing a socket on your carbon frame with commercial epoxy yourself
than you are trusting your ti frame to the local welder. or even steel
frame in many cases.Speaking of that, how is that local welders can even attempt to weld
steel frames? Isn't the reason most of them are brazed together in the
first place because the tubes are too thin to survive the heat of
welding?Reynolds make a tube called 631 which is made of air hardened steel and
can be welded carefully, but most aren't like that. -
"Ben C" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
jim beam said:
Derk said:
jim beam wrote:
> you're not under the impression that those materials are more durable i
> hope - for fatigue, cfrp is much more resistant than either.
Let me refrase that, hoping I can make my point of view any clearer:
The CT1 is a great frame in my opinion. It's a pure-bred race frame.
I compare it to a Ferrari. Would you ever consider taking a Ferrari
off-road
to participate in a rally cross? There are different kinds of cars that
are more suitable for that. That doesn't take away that a Ferrari is a
unique and great car.Do you understand what I mean?
Derk
sure, but that's not a materials thing, it's a dimensions thing.
regarding your other comment about repairs, you're probably better off
re-gluing a socket on your carbon frame with commercial epoxy yourself
than you are trusting your ti frame to the local welder. or even steel
frame in many cases.Speaking of that, how is that local welders can even attempt to weld
steel frames? Isn't the reason most of them are brazed together in the
first place because the tubes are too thin to survive the heat of
welding?Reynolds make a tube called 631 which is made of air hardened steel and
can be welded carefully, but most aren't like that.High end modern steel frames are all welded.
Lou
-
Ben C said:
jim beam said:
Derk said:
jim beam wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> you're not under the impression that those materials are more durable i
> hope - for fatigue, cfrp is much more resistant than either.
Let me refrase that, hoping I can make my point of view any clearer:
The CT1 is a great frame in my opinion. It's a pure-bred race frame.
I compare it to a Ferrari. Would you ever consider taking a Ferrari off-road
to participate in a rally cross? There are different kinds of cars that
are more suitable for that. That doesn't take away that a Ferrari is a
unique and great car.Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Do you understand what I mean?
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Derk
Quoted message said:
sure, but that's not a materials thing, it's a dimensions thing.
Quoted message said:
regarding your other comment about repairs, you're probably better off
re-gluing a socket on your carbon frame with commercial epoxy yourself
than you are trusting your ti frame to the local welder. or even steel
frame in many cases.Speaking of that, how is that local welders can even attempt to weld
steel frames? Isn't the reason most of them are brazed together in the
first place because the tubes are too thin to survive the heat of
welding?Reynolds make a tube called 631 which is made of air hardened steel and
can be welded carefully, but most aren't like that.Actually, these days most are. Reynolds, TrueTemper, Deda, Columbus
all use 'air hardened' steels and all are tih welded, not brazed,
together.
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