Tire Recommendation?

Quoted message said:

The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I
would like to replace them with something more puncture
resistant, yet still maintain good rolling resistance and
weight. I might be willing to go as high as $50 per tire,
but no more. Any recommendations?

avocet fasgrip or vittoria rubino pro (i run the latter
on my track bike and i'd say they're definitely better
w/r/t flats). both are nice tires. the vittoria open
corsa is noticeably worse for flats and wears quicker so
don't step up.

Quoted message said:

Also, how have your experiences been with patching road
bike tires -- especially high pressure ones? Any patch
brands you recommend to buy or stay away from?

rema. no problems patching tires tho some tires are worse
than others but vittorias are looser (so easier) than most
and avocets are in the middle. contis are murder 'specially
on campag rims.

Quoted message said:

I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road
bike tires on the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing?
They claimed to be looking at an easier way to fix flats
on them (an outside patch system would get them at least
one buyer 😉).

hmmmm .. ok. i have no experience with tubeless tires.
--
david reuteler [email hidden]

Quoted message said:

Hi,

I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires
(I think) @ 110 PSI for training and longer rides
(150 miles).

The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I
would like to replace them with something more puncture
resistant, yet still maintain good rolling resistance and
weight. I might be willing to go as high as $50 per tire,
but no more. Any recommendations?

Also, how have your experiences been with patching road
bike tires -- especially high pressure ones? Any patch
brands you recommend to buy or stay away from?

I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road
bike tires on the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing?
They claimed to be looking at an easier way to fix flats
on them (an outside patch system would get them at least
one buyer 😉).

I got some bargain NOS Specialized Turbo S folding tyres
(called 25mm, but more like 20mm) from eBay. I'm very
impressed - they're the fastest I've ever ridden, and that
includes the 18mm Conti GPs on my other wheels. I would
try the modern Specialized equivalent if I wanted to pay
full price.

For patches you need to get feather-edge ones. The cheap
square patches will leave a lump under the tread. Pressure
doesn't really matter as the patch is very firmly pressed
against the inside of the carcass when inflated.

What do you think of the Fuji bike? They seem remarkably
good value and the frame isn't too heavy - it probably
deserves better wheels to get the weight down.

I would forget tubeless for road use. They have a small
niche in downhill MTBing where their invulnerability to
pinch flats allows very low pressures.

I run on Vredestein Fortezza's. I've had good luck with flats (knock on
wood). I ride them about 3000 mlies a year here in New England. You can
pump them to 140 psi if you're so inclined.
The only down side I've come across is trying to find them -- I just get
them from here:
bicycletires.comtek9.aspOpen ↗

Kevin

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi,

I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires
(I think) @ 110 PSI for training and longer rides
(150 miles).

The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I
would like to replace them with something more puncture
resistant, yet still maintain good rolling resistance and
weight. I might be willing to go as high as $50 per tire,
but no more. Any recommendations?

Also, how have your experiences been with patching road
bike tires -- especially high pressure ones? Any patch
brands you recommend to buy or stay away from?

I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road
bike tires on the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing?
They claimed to be looking at an easier way to fix flats
on them (an outside patch system would get them at least
one buyer 😉).

Thanks in Advance.

<[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires
(I think) @ 110 PSI for training and longer rides
(150 miles).

The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I
would like to replace them with something more puncture
resistant, yet still maintain good rolling resistance and
weight. I might be willing to go as high as $50 per tire,
but no more. Any recommendations?

Panaracer Paselas or IRC RoadWinner, either is <$15. Good
quality, durable, light, Japanese-made tires.

Quoted message said:

Also, how have your experiences been with patching road
bike tires -- especially high pressure ones? Any patch
brands you recommend to buy or stay away from?

Not to quibble, but you patch tubes, not tires. Patching is
a simple thing, it's all technique, read the FAQ. I've had
good luck with generic patch kits, although Rema is the
nicest. Sometimes glue can dry out (I've even had it happen
in an unopened tube), so I carry a couple of "glueless"
patches, which are otherwise pretty useless since they don't
last very long (a few months) at high pressure, and are hard
to remove later when you need to put on a permanent patch.
Most experienced riders will carry an extra tube (or 2),
slap that on after a flat and do the patching at home.

Tufo C Elite Road Hi-TPI tubeless clincher tubular
tufo.comindex.phpOpen ↗ will be
slightly more exspensve than you maximum of $50, (typically
$65 on eBay), but if puncture resistance is your prioroty,
this is the tire. The wheight is 315 g, but that includes
the tube and you can (should) remove your rim tape.

How to patch them? Never mind, no more flats. (Or bomb
proof - add a little of Tofo self sealant compound when you
pump them up)

Erik

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi,

I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires
(I think) @ 110 PSI for training and longer rides
(150 miles).

The tires that came with the bike are really thin, so I
would like to replace them with something more puncture
resistant, yet still maintain good rolling resistance and
weight. I might be willing to go as high as $50 per tire,
but no more. Any recommendations?

Also, how have your experiences been with patching road
bike tires -- especially high pressure ones? Any patch
brands you recommend to buy or stay away from?

I also read that Michelin expects to have tubeless road
bike tires on the market by 2005. Any buzz on testing?
They claimed to be looking at an easier way to fix flats
on them (an outside patch system would get them at least
one buyer 😉).

Thanks in Advance.

Zog The Undeniable said:

I got some bargain NOS Specialized Turbo S folding tyres
(called 25mm, but more like 20mm) from eBay. I'm very
impressed - they're the fastest I've ever ridden, and that
includes the 18mm Conti GPs on my other wheels. I would
try the modern Specialized equivalent if I wanted to pay
full price.

Aren't those the ones that had the raised ridge on the
center of the tire. I hated them! And they were very
flat prone.

Art Harris

Quoted message said:

I got some bargain NOS Specialized Turbo S folding tyres
(called 25mm, but more like 20mm) from eBay. I'm very
impressed - they're the fastest I've ever ridden, and that
includes the 18mm Conti GPs on my other wheels. I would
try the modern Specialized equivalent if I wanted to pay
full price.

It depends on what the full price is 🙂. Also, my LBS
doesn't carry Specialized. I could go elsewhere, but if I
can get the same quality in something they stock, it'll be
more convenient and they'll put it on for free since the
bike is still under service. Less work for me 😄.

Quoted message said:

For patches you need to get feather-edge ones. The cheap
square patches will leave a lump under the tread. Pressure
doesn't really matter as the patch is very firmly pressed
against the inside of the carcass when inflated.

Got it. I have patched tires before (on my Fuji Boulevard FS
Mountain Bike), but they leaked.

Quoted message said:

What do you think of the Fuji bike? They seem remarkably
good value and the frame isn't too heavy - it probably
deserves better wheels to get the weight down.

So far, I love it. It's extremely light and fun to ride. My
only quibble with is the wheels aren't quick release. As you
can see from the above, I have another Fuji bike which is
great as well. Those bikes are fantastic deals.

Quoted message said:

I would forget tubeless for road use. They have a small
niche in downhill MTBing where their invulnerability to
pinch flats allows very low pressures.

The only reason I'd consider a tubeless tire is if the
patching is simplified. Apart from that, I cannot see any
use for them either.

Thank you for your response.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Also, how have your experiences been with patching road
bike tires -- especially high pressure ones? Any patch
brands you recommend to buy or stay away from?

Not to quibble, but you patch tubes, not tires. Patching
is a simple thing, it's all technique, read the FAQ. I've
had good luck with generic patch kits, although Rema is
the nicest. Sometimes glue can dry out (I've even had it
happen in an unopened tube), so I carry a couple of
"glueless" patches, which are otherwise pretty useless
since they don't last very long (a few months) at high
pressure, and are hard to remove later when you need to
put on a permanent patch. Most experienced riders will
carry an extra tube (or 2), slap that on after a flat and
do the patching at home.

Yes, I was sloppy with my terms, sorry. I've never had a
patch hold, whether on a road bike or a mountain bike. I
used both Rema patches, and generic glueless patches. The
generic ones were worthless. The Rema ones held long enough
for me to get home, but would leak overnight. I got in the
habit of carrying multiple inner tubes and just replacing
damaged ones and throwing them away. I wanted to make sure
the problem wasn't the brand, as I followed the directions
to the letter.

Thanks.

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Also, how have your experiences been with patching
road bike tires -- especially high pressure ones? Any
patch brands you recommend to buy or stay away from?

Not to quibble, but you patch tubes, not tires. Patching
is a simple

thing,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

it's all technique, read the FAQ. I've had good luck
with generic patch

kits,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

although Rema is the nicest. Sometimes glue can dry out
(I've even had it happen in an unopened tube), so I
carry a couple of "glueless" patches,

which

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

are otherwise pretty useless since they don't last very
long (a few

months) at

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

high pressure, and are hard to remove later when you
need to put on a permanent patch. Most experienced
riders will carry an extra tube (or 2),

slap

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

that on after a flat and do the patching at home.

Yes, I was sloppy with my terms, sorry. I've never had a
patch hold, whether on a road bike or a mountain bike. I
used both Rema patches, and generic glueless patches. The
generic ones were worthless. The Rema ones held long
enough for me to get home, but would leak overnight. I got
in the habit of carrying multiple inner tubes and just
replacing damaged ones and throwing them away. I wanted to
make sure the problem wasn't the brand, as I followed the
directions to the letter.

That's odd, I've used all kinds of patches, and don't think
I've ever had one fail, even the generic glueless will last
several months. Since you have trouble getting either type
to work, I think it must be a problem with the surface of
the tube still being contaminated with mold release. That
stuff will prevent sticking (by design), that's why scrapers
and/or sandpaper is included. Some people report success
using alcohol to clean it off also. I usually sand mine then
wipe the area vigorously with cloth (bike shorts, etc.)
before applying glue. I also smear the glue with finger
pressure, wait for it to dry completely (very important!)
before pressing the patch on, using a flat surface. Curing
overnight makes the most reliable repair. If the weather is
good, I'll patch on the road, but use the spare tube,
otherwise patch at home.

"Peter Cole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<Vm9hc.33324$0b4.47710@attbi_s51>...

Quoted message said:

That's odd, I've used all kinds of patches, and don't
think I've ever had one fail, even the generic glueless
will last several months. Since you have trouble getting
either type to work, I think it must be a problem with the
surface of the tube still being contaminated with mold
release. That stuff will prevent sticking (by design),
that's why scrapers and/or sandpaper is included. Some
people report success using alcohol to clean it off also.
I usually sand mine then wipe the area vigorously with
cloth (bike shorts, etc.) before applying glue. I also
smear the glue with finger pressure, wait for it to dry
completely (very important!) before pressing the patch on,
using a flat surface. Curing overnight makes the most
reliable repair. If the weather is good, I'll patch on the
road, but use the spare tube, otherwise patch at home.

What do you do when the hole is near a rib? I have pretty
good success except when the patch straddles a rib.

thanks dl

(Douglas Landau) said:

"Peter Cole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Since you have trouble getting either type to work, I
think it must be a problem with the surface of the tube
still being contaminated with mold release. That stuff
will prevent sticking (by design), that's why scrapers
and/or sandpaper is included. Some people report success
using alcohol to clean it off also. I usually sand mine
then wipe the area vigorously with cloth <snip>

What do you do when the hole is near a rib? I have pretty
good success except when the patch straddles a rib.

That's what the sandpaper is for. Use it like you mean it.

Chalo Colina

Douglas Landau said:

What do you do when the hole is near a rib? I have pretty
good success except when the patch straddles a rib.

I carry the head from one of those razors with
disposable blade assemblies, and shave the seam off the
tube. No, really.
--
David Damerell <[email hidden]>
Distortion Field!

Quoted message said:

I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires
(I think) @ 110 PSI for training and longer rides
(150 miles).

150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're
tougher than I.

--
Dave dvt at psu dot edu

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I
think) @ 110 PSI for training and longer rides (150
miles).

150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're
tougher than I.

How about 1200 km on a fixed gear in the Rockies?
mile43.comRocky.htmlOpen ↗

Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,

--
Benjamin Lewis

A small, but vocal, contingent even argues that tin is
superior, but they are held by most to be the lunatic fringe
of Foil Deflector Beanie science.

dvt <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I
think) @ 110 PSI for training and longer rides (150
miles).

150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're
tougher than I.

Hehehehehe. 150 miles is what I'm training for (the
MS150 from Houston to Austin). My training rides may not
exceed 80 miles.

That's my goal -- whether or not I can make it remains to be
seen 🙂. The most I've done on a fixed gear is 20 miles or
so, and this is through relatively flat terrain (Houston). I
also commute and run errands on fixed gear bikes, but this
is nothing compared to what I will need to achieve.

My biggest concern is the hills. I will need to find some
way to train for those.

Wish me luck 😄

Benjamin Lewis <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I
think) @ 110 PSI for training and longer rides (150
miles).

150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're tougher
than I.

How about 1200 km on a fixed gear in the Rockies?
mile43.comRocky.htmlOpen ↗

I read the page -- wow. That gives me hope. The hilly
terrain on the 2nd half of the 150 miler doesn't make me
feel so bad. Did you do any training, and if so what?

Quoted message said:

Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,

It's funny, but my knees hurt when I ride a geared
freewheel. I find it easier to deal with slopes on a fixed
gear. There are other variables though (my fixie commuter is
a 24 inch, while the freewheel I tried it on was a 26 inch).

Take Care.

Quoted message said:

Benjamin Lewis <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

How about 1200 km on a fixed gear in the Rockies?
mile43.comRocky.htmlOpen ↗

I read the page -- wow. That gives me hope. The hilly
terrain on the 2nd half of the 150 miler doesn't make me
feel so bad. Did you do any training, and if so what?

That wasn't me. The hardest ride *I* have done is 600 km on
a touring bike with lots of gears, and that was mostly flat.
I now have a fixie, as of a couple weeks ago, but I haven't
gone more than a few km at a time on it yet. I sure love the
increased feeling of feedback and control one gets.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,

It's funny, but my knees hurt when I ride a geared
freewheel. I find it easier to deal with slopes on a
fixed gear.

Can't you just choose a different gear on your
freewheel bike?

--
Benjamin Lewis

Seeing is deceiving. It's eating that's believing.
-- James Thurber

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I read the page -- wow. That gives me hope. The hilly
terrain on the 2nd half of the 150 miler doesn't make me
feel so bad. Did you do any training, and if so what?

That wasn't me. The hardest ride *I* have done is 600 km
on a touring bike with lots of gears, and that was mostly
flat. I now have a fixie, as of a couple weeks ago, but I
haven't gone more than a few km at a time on it yet. I
sure love the increased feeling of feedback and control
one gets.

Ditto. After a few days of riding a fixed gear, I never
wanted to ride a freewheel again. I still don't, except when
I'm going downhill (unpleasant on a fixed gear).

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Still aspiring to this distance on a geared bike,

It's funny, but my knees hurt when I ride a geared
freewheel. I find it easier to deal with slopes on a
fixed gear.

Can't you just choose a different gear on your
freewheel bike?

I did, and my knees still hurt. I think the momentum from
the fixed gear helped me maintain my cadence and assisted
when I stood while pedaling. It was too easy to stop
pedalling on a freewheel, and when I started pedaling again
(or stood to pedal) I must have put too much energy behind
it and hurt myself. The whole ride seemed very jerky to me,
and the switching between gears was jarring on my knees.

Take Care.

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

dvt <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I recently bought a Fuji Track Bike w/ 700cc tires (I

think) @ 110 PSI

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

for training and longer rides (150 miles).

150 mile training rides on a track bike? You're
tougher than

I.

Quoted message said:

Hehehehehe. 150 miles is what I'm training for (the MS150
from Houston to Austin). My training rides may not exceed
80 miles.

That's my goal -- whether or not I can make it
remains to be

seen 🙂.

Quoted message said:

The most I've done on a fixed gear is 20 miles or so,
and this

is

Quoted message said:

through relatively flat terrain (Houston). I also
commute and

run

Quoted message said:

errands on fixed gear bikes, but this is nothing
compared to

what I

Quoted message said:

will need to achieve.

My biggest concern is the hills. I will need to find
some way

to

Quoted message said:

train for those.

Take a flip-flop. It will save your legs on a long down
hill. It will also allow you to ride down with the people
you rode up. Remember that riding fixed gear is often a
solitary activity, especially if you picked a 70 inch gear
and you want to ride with the tandems who are doing 35mph on
the flats -- or the big hill gets over 8% for any real
distance. -- Jay Beattie.