Well, it's trash now so it's all academic. Just to clear, the slit was completely through the tire. I could see daylight looking from the inside to the outside. I am skeptical that such a tire, even if it was lined by a water bottle, would maintain its integrity.
Since you dismiss the success that others have had in repairing cut tyres out of hand, I wonder why you bothered asking in the first place. ISTM you were just looking for an argument.
The 4000's have holes in the tread area I first thought were defects. When the hole is gone, the tire is worn out.
This is an unnecessary feature taken from slick motorcycle treads. A motorcycle can start out on 400 mile day trip on highways and wear a tire to blowout from no casing cords showing at the outset. For that purpose wear depth features are useful for those who don't check their tires when the stop somewhere, which is not as easy as on a fenderless bicycle.
A bicycle can be ridden all day if the cords aren't showing at the outset because even when into the cords there are more than a half day's worth of safe miles left. I ride tires (ones that are uniformly made) until cords show on most of the circumference, then put on a new tire when I get home. Wear depth markers are there to look important and to assist those who cannot figure it out when cords begin to show.
The 4000's have holes in the tread area I first thought were defects. When the hole is gone, the tire is worn out.
This is an unnecessary feature taken from slick motorcycle treads. A motorcycle can start out on 400 mile day trip on highways and wear a tire to blowout from no casing cords showing at the outset. For that purpose wear depth features are useful for those who don't check their tires when the stop somewhere, which is not as easy as on a fenderless bicycle.
A bicycle can be ridden all day if the cords aren't showing at the outset because even when into the cords there are more than a half day's worth of safe miles left. I ride tires (ones that are uniformly made) until cords show on most of the circumference, then put on a new tire when I get home. Wear depth markers are there to look important and to assist those who cannot figure it out when cords begin to show.
In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...
Quoted message said:
A bicycle can be ridden all day if the cords aren't showing at the outset because even when into the cords there are more than a half day's worth of safe miles left. I ride tires (ones that are uniformly made) until cords show on most of the circumference, then put on a new tire when I get home. Wear depth markers are there to look important and to assist those who cannot figure it out when cords begin to show.
I can now see it. Some tire company will color the cords and call that a new wear indicator. When you see yellow in the tread area, time to get a new tire. ------------ Alex
I can now see it. Some tire company will color the cords and call that a new wear indicator. When you see yellow in the tread area, time to get a new tire.
Well, it's not *quite* the same, but... The Schwalbe Marathon Plus have a thick (5mm) blue belt for puncture protection. So, when your tread has worn away, you can see the blue belt. Hence, it's time to change the tire.
-- Dane Buson - [email hidden] What is wanted is not the will to believe, but the will to find out, which is the exact opposite. -- Bertrand Russell, "Skeptical Essays", 1928
Well, it's trash now so it's all academic. Just to clear, the slit was completely through the tire. I could see daylight looking from the inside to the outside. I am skeptical that such a tire, even if it was lined by a water bottle, would maintain its integrity.
Since you dismiss the success that others have had in repairing cut tyres out of hand, I wonder why you bothered asking in the first place. ISTM you were just looking for an argument.
I initially mistook the amount of damage. Had I fully assessed the situation before I posted, I'd not have posted.
The slit is all the way through the tire and nicked the tube.
What is interesting about this is that the Vectran (not precisely Kevlar) layer therefore did not do its job, and the only thing that saved you from a flat was the thickness of the tire, at the maximum since they were essentially new. So, for flat resistance, forget Vectran, and just get the thickest (carbon) rubber that you can stand. In this category you are looking at Continental Ultra 2000 and Michelin Carbon. m
The slit is all the way through the tire and nicked the tube.
What is interesting about this is that the Vectran (not precisely Kevlar) layer therefore did not do its job, and the only thing that saved you from a flat was the thickness of the tire, at the maximum since they were essentially new. So, for flat resistance, forget Vectran, and just get the thickest (carbon) rubber that you can stand. In this category you are looking at Continental Ultra 2000 and Michelin Carbon. m
Yes. I was disappointed that the Vectran layer didn't seem to do much, but OTOH, I have no idea what got at the tire. I sure don't remember anything dramatic.
