time trial gear

marmatt said:

Hello All, I just started road racing last year but will be a cat 3 this year. Last year I just rode in the drops during time trials. I know that won't cut it this year. What pieces of equipment would be the best to start with(note: my wife is in school and a TT bike not likely this year)I'm thinking clip on aerobars and a helmet,any suggestions?Also how can one determine handlebar diameter, I measured with tape but it didn't seem near 26 or 31 or whatever the common sizes are. Thanks

Handlebar diameter - Clamp Size or Grip Size?

Clamp size for most common drop handlebars nowadays range from 25.4mm to 31.8mm (O/S) while grip size measure 23.8mm in diameter. The clamp dia size is usually printed on the handlebar (near clamp area) or in the packing. Handlebar width is usually printed below handlebar ends and measure c-c.

marmatt said:

Hello All, I just started road racing last year but will be a cat 3 this year. Last year I just rode in the drops during time trials. I know that won't cut it this year. What pieces of equipment would be the best to start with(note: my wife is in school and a TT bike not likely this year)I'm thinking clip on aerobars and a helmet,any suggestions?Also how can one determine handlebar diameter, I measured with tape but it didn't seem near 26 or 31 or whatever the common sizes are. Thanks

I'm pretty sure the size refers to the centre of the handlebar. Oversize is 31.8 mm in size.

My suggestions for best bang for buck aero equipment: 1) high quality race tires, if you aren't using them already.
2) clip on aerobars
3) aero helmet

Of all of these, I'd get aerobars if I could only get just one.

I did the same thing as you last year, did TT's with no aerobars, no aero equipment of any kind, and vittoria zaffiro tires.

-Bikeguy

if the handlebars are pretty much the same diameter from drops to stem, they're 26 (25.8) so use 25.8 or 26 clip-ons. if there is a bulge in the handlebar where the stem is clamped, it's a 31.8.

forget race tires unless they're attached to race wheels. any good quality 23 tire will be fine.

1. aerobars
2. an aero front wheel. it has to be at least 38mm deep to gain any real advantage. an aero front is more important than an aero rear, even a disc.
3. deep rear wheel or rear disc if you can swing it. renn makes a hell of a disc for $450. go to...
http://www.rennmultisport.com/~rennmem/store/commerce.cgi
4. helmet

Agree with RV. Additionally, just clipping the aerobars on your existing rig may not suffice. You may want to consider lowering your handlbars for a TT if you can remove spacers. Wheels and a TT frame help, but the key thing in a TT is to get the rider in a position that:

1) is adequately comfortable for the duration of the event (if you can't ride as you are set up for the duration of the race and have to sit up, you won't do well)

2) allows sufficient power output (it doesn't matter if you are aero out the wazoo if you can only provide 100 watts of energy over 40K in that position)

3) as aero as possible (but not to the point of a position that is not comfortble enough to hold for the duration of the event, and not to the point that the tradeoff of aerodynamic gain to power loss does not net out in overall improved speed/lower time)

Someone once told me if you can walk after getting off your bike in a TT you didn't go fast enough.

Good luck!

Mike

MikeThe Bike said:

Agree with RV. Additionally, just clipping the aerobars on your existing rig may not suffice. You may want to consider lowering your handlbars for a TT if you can remove spacers. Wheels and a TT frame help, but the key thing in a TT is to get the rider in a position that:

1) is adequately comfortable for the duration of the event (if you can't ride as you are set up for the duration of the race and have to sit up, you won't do well)

2) allows sufficient power output (it doesn't matter if you are aero out the wazoo if you can only provide 100 watts of energy over 40K in that position)

3) as aero as possible (but not to the point of a position that is not comfortble enough to hold for the duration of the event, and not to the point that the tradeoff of aerodynamic gain to power loss does not net out in overall improved speed/lower time)

Someone once told me if you can walk after getting off your bike in a TT you didn't go fast enough.

Good luck!

Mike

I actually have a funky set up on my bike It has a stem with about the max rise you can have. Do you think if I invert it the shifting and brakes would still work okay? Sorry if this is a stupid question.

I'm sure if you invert the stem the shifting and brakes will still work. However, if you have a significantly "funky" setup, it suggests that perhaps you bike does not fit you properly. Hard to tell without seeing it, and you on it, though.

-Mike

MikeThe Bike said:

I'm sure if you invert the stem the shifting and brakes will still work. However, if you have a significantly "funky" setup, it suggests that perhaps you bike does not fit you properly. Hard to tell without seeing it, and you on it, though.

-Mike

yeah,its not the best fit. I went strictly by standover height, and the bike was too low and too short according to the fitting at a local bike shop,hence the long,risen stem,thanks again

marmatt said:

yeah,its not the best fit. I went strictly by standover height, and the bike was too low and too short according to the fitting at a local bike shop,hence the long,risen stem,thanks again

If its 1 or 2 sizes smaller it could be the ideal time trial bike size - low-pro style. The pros favor TT bikes 1-2 sizes smaller with steep seat angles long seat post and saddles moved forward.

A shorter handlebar and head tube do make sense for TTs, as long as the stem is not so long as to adversely affect handing. A long stem and aerobars can get quite twitchy. As far as seat tube angle and moving the saddle forward, steeper and more forward is preferable in time trialing because it allows a lower, more aero, "flat back" position while maintaining an open hip angle. However, UCI regulations mandate a certain amount of saddle "set back" (saddle nose must fall behind bottom bracket by something like 6 or 8 cm), which limits this for the professional peleton. Some pros have used "stubby" saddles or had the nose of their saddle shortened/modified to get around this regulation. This rule is not in effect for USCF amateur racing (or for amateur triathlons).

Mike

marmatt said:

Hello All, I just started road racing last year but will be a cat 3 this year. Last year I just rode in the drops during time trials. I know that won't cut it this year. What pieces of equipment would be the best to start with(note: my wife is in school and a TT bike not likely this year)I'm thinking clip on aerobars and a helmet,any suggestions?Also how can one determine handlebar diameter, I measured with tape but it didn't seem near 26 or 31 or whatever the common sizes are. Thanks

I have really enjoyed my Profile Design Airstryke clip-on aerobars. They run about $90 but you can get a good set on Ebay for about half that. If you look around a little, it's pretty easy to tell which bars are oversize (31.8) by that bulge at the stem. Many of the Airstrykes have adapter pieces that allow them to fit either size bar. Good Luck--Rob--