Ti Road Frame w/ MTB wheels

Gary Muntz said:

Hi --
I'm looking to build up a bad-weather bike, optimizing for slush

and

Quoted message said:

ice though it will see more rain miles than frozen ones. I'd hoped it
wouldn't be hard to find a frame, but I haven't found any non-custom
options. I'm currently using a Trek 520 Touring bike, mostly for
commutes of 20+ miles each way. I plan to keep the drop h'bars, etc,
and no suspension. I'm just looking for these characteristics:
* MTB (26"😉 wheels. I already use MTB hubs for weatherproofing, and
converting to true MTB wheels offers less toe-to-fender overlap,
better choice in big slicks, and more available rims/wheels.
* Road geometry. I ride New England roads, which means lots of
cracked pavement but it's firm ground. (An MTB frame with rigid fork
appears to have steering geometry that's too slack.)
* Ti frame, because fighting rust/corrosion is a hassle. I wish I
had time to take better care of my bike, but honestly, once the hose
freezes I stop washing for the winter.
I don't understand why this is obscure. I'd think many tourers and
city bikers would want the same thing. The Dawes Sardar is a 26"
tourer, but only in steel.
Thanks for any pointers!

Why not get a ti mt bike put on a regular rigid fork and slicks and go.
If you're riding in snow, may be some snow tires (what do I know about
snow, I live in San Francisco).

What is there about steering geometry that is "too slack"? I doubt you
would notice it if all you're doing is riding thru slush, ice and rain.

Your best bet - if you don't mind 700c wheels, maybe a ti cyclocross
bike like the one from Habaneros here:

http://www.habcycles.com/cross.html

Otherwise, habaneros also sells a ti mt bike that would work:
http://www.habcycles.com/mtb.html

Or, if you must go custom, a custom Hab ti frame is *only* $995 (8-10
week delivery time as its coming from china):
http://www.habcycles.com/road.html

Good Luck.

bfd said:

Gary Muntz said:

Hi --
I'm looking to build up a bad-weather bike, optimizing for slush

.....

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

* Road geometry. I ride New England roads, which means lots of
cracked pavement but it's firm ground. (An MTB frame with rigid fork
appears to have steering geometry that's too slack.)

Quoted message said:

What is there about steering geometry that is "too slack"? I doubt you
would notice it if all you're doing is riding thru slush, ice and rain.

That's what I thought; this bike
http://www.on-one.co.uk/products/tigearedinbred.shtml has a 71 degree
head angle, which is probably closer to 72 degrees with the rigid
fork. 1124GBP for the titanium frame with rigid titanium fork, and it
would be a crime to go with anything less than a titanium Chris King
headset to join them together. For that kind of money, you could have
a new steel or aluminium frame every year and still be in credit after
10 years.

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

"Gary Muntz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hi --
I'm looking to build up a bad-weather bike, optimizing for slush and
ice though it will see more rain miles than frozen ones. I'd hoped it
wouldn't be hard to find a frame, but I haven't found any non-custom
options. I'm currently using a Trek 520 Touring bike, mostly for
commutes of 20+ miles each way. I plan to keep the drop h'bars, etc,
and no suspension. I'm just looking for these characteristics:
* MTB (26"😉 wheels. I already use MTB hubs for weatherproofing, and
converting to true MTB wheels offers less toe-to-fender overlap,
better choice in big slicks, and more available rims/wheels.
* Road geometry. I ride New England roads, which means lots of
cracked pavement but it's firm ground. (An MTB frame with rigid fork
appears to have steering geometry that's too slack.)
* Ti frame, because fighting rust/corrosion is a hassle. I wish I
had time to take better care of my bike, but honestly, once the hose
freezes I stop washing for the winter.
I don't understand why this is obscure. I'd think many tourers and
city bikers would want the same thing. The Dawes Sardar is a 26"
tourer, but only in steel.
Thanks for any pointers!

-- Gary.

It may not be Ti, but doesn't a Bruce Gordon Rock-n-Road have the option of 26"
wheels?

Personally, I'd look for a cross bike before I went as far as having a custom Ti
bike made. You can get up to 45c Smokes (if you can find a pair) or 29"-er mtb
tires. Actually, a 29"-er mtb frame probably will work too.

I've been running 34c Tufo T-34 tires off-road and having a good time.

HTH,

M

I have a Ritchey top-of-the-line-in-1989 mountain bike, now set up with drop
bars & bar-end shifters, slick tires and it is a great Winter training bike. I
have full fenders with lots of protection from constant Oregon rain. I run a
12/21 9-speed cogset, but if you need a big gear, you could put on an 11/21 and
keep up on the downhills. I run an old Cook Bros triple Crankset, with a 48
tooth big ring, so you might need to consider getting a non-compact crankset.

Steve

Gary Muntz said:

Hi --
I'm looking to build up a bad-weather bike, optimizing for slush and
ice though it will see more rain miles than frozen ones. I'd hoped it
wouldn't be hard to find a frame, but I haven't found any non-custom
options. I'm currently using a Trek 520 Touring bike, mostly for
commutes of 20+ miles each way. I plan to keep the drop h'bars, etc,
and no suspension. I'm just looking for these characteristics:
* MTB (26"😉 wheels. I already use MTB hubs for weatherproofing, and
converting to true MTB wheels offers less toe-to-fender overlap,
better choice in big slicks, and more available rims/wheels.
* Road geometry. I ride New England roads, which means lots of
cracked pavement but it's firm ground. (An MTB frame with rigid fork
appears to have steering geometry that's too slack.)

I don't think the difference in geometry is that significant. You can get
a rigid mountain-bike frame & fork for peanuts. Who cares whether it
rusts --- or get aluminum. I commute on a rigid aluminum mountain bike in
bad weather (track bike in good). It's equipped with lights and fenders,
and I just built a second set of wheels with studded tires for ice.
Perfect commuter. Granted, drop bars would be good, but my bars are low
enough, and have nice bar-ends, so it's fairly efficient. No crime in
using drop bars on such a bike, anyway, as long as you get the brake
levers to pull enough to use either canti's or v-brakes, otherwise you
will be too limited in tires and fenders.

Quoted message said:

* Ti frame, because fighting rust/corrosion

is a hassle.

Hey, if you want ti, fine, but this is not the reason. You can get
several steel frames, and loads of aluminum ones, for the cost of one
average-price ti frame. But if you do want one, talk to Mark Hickey at
Habanero. He builds both cross and mountain bike frames, all ti. I
bought one of his road bikes and couldn't be happier, and his price is way
below most.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Let's not escape into mathematics. Let's stay with reality. --
_`\(,_ | Michael Crichton
(_)/ (_) |