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The Ultimate Touring Machine?

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
28 March 2008
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21 April 2008
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Denali
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  1. siafirede said:

    What makes ISIS less scary to change than square taper?

    Ok, I've not changed ISIS cranks, but I've changed the old KH 8 Splined
    ones, and those are just a case of undoing the bolts and slipping them
    off.

    Winding in a crank extractor and tightening it tighter and tighter when
    nothing seems to be moving and knowing you're about to wreck a delicate
    piece of Swiss engineering if anything goes wrong scares the [censored] out
    of me. I've only done it once, but that was enough for me.

    Even normal square taper hubs get me in to a sweat when changing the
    cranks.

    STM

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  2. Yeah, with the set up I am using and most ISIS cranks...I do not think
    that the cranks self extract. You still need to use a crank puller. I
    just need to get a new crank puller that will work with ISIS hubs if I
    am ever going to switch my cranks out.

    --
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  3. Wow! A geared 29er seems like the perfect size for both XC/light MUni
    and long distance/communting! Lightweight, nimble and strong, and when
    in high gear, gives it an effective wheel diameter of 43.5"! This alone
    makes it *easily* faster than a standard coker and much less
    cumbersome! I'm sold!😄

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  4. MuniAddict said:

    This alone makes it *easily* faster than a standard coker and much less
    cumbersome!

    Under the right circumstances and terrain it can be *easily* faster
    than a standard Coker. However, from experience riding with other
    Coker riders, there's times when they are just faster. Some times the
    terrain isn't suitable for high gear, in which case you're playing
    catch-up on a 29er whilst the 36ers are getting away.

    I don't think that there will ever be one single unicycle that is
    always the best and fastest at everything. A 29 guni, however, is a
    fantastic compromise and probably as close as we'll get. At least for
    now.

    STM

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  5. Hey Sid! Good to hear from yah.

    I got my geared KH hub into my Nimbus 36 on Tuesday night. I've done
    two one hour rides on it at lunch with Chuck on his geared KH 36.

    IMHO, I've seen the future of unicycling and it is geared. I absolutely
    love my geared 36'er. But, just like starting to unicycle, there is a
    learning curve. I'm not yet hitting shifts 100%, but it isn't difficult
    to learn how, and I'm sure I'll get better.

    So, my take on your dilemma: get a geared 36'er if you want the fastest
    touring machine, and get a geared 29'er if you want a very fast machine
    that is more portable than a 36" wheel.

    -corbin

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  6. Hey, I'm going to totally second Corbin: Geared 36 is the way to go.
    Some have said here that long cranks will tire you out faster, but,
    honestly, if you're using long cranks on a geared 36, you'll be
    spinning a lot more slowly than even on a geared 29 for any given
    speed. Granted, long cranks while spinning fast definitely tire you
    out, but long cranks and 60-80 RPM are just golden. I think the
    argument that long cranks are tiring hinges on the assumption that
    you'll be spinning at the same cadence for a given ground speed, and,
    with geared hubs and big wheels, that doesn't hold water.

    I actually think longer cranks and slower spin are better than a faster
    spin with shorter cranks, because you're able to use more of your
    muscle and spread the load with the better leg extension. On my bike I
    have 175 cranks and always choose a gear that keeps me between 80 and
    100 RPM, and I can do a spontaneous century here or there and feel
    great afterwards, with a clean thorough exercise of the entire lengths
    of my legs. On my ungeared 36 with 125s (and even moreso with 102s), it
    felt like all the work was being concentrated in my quads (top of leg)
    right behind my knees. Now I can get that bike-workout feeling from my
    geared 36, and go faster all the same. I think for touring longevity
    longer cranks and slower cadence (for the same mechanical advantage at
    the pedal, i.e. same 'gear ratio'😉 are going to be the winner, which
    would leave you on a geared 36 with 150 cranks probably spinning a cool
    easy 80-90 RPM for around 15mph. (which I think is a pretty decent
    touring speed for a unicycle, IMHO). I have no doubt that it'd be
    doable to hold an easy 15mph spin on a geared 36 with 150 cranks for
    40, 50, 60, 80 miles at a time, leaving you ready for more the next day
    on a big touring ride. And if you want to go fast, it's more than
    likely very possible with a bit of work to hold 18-20 over flat ground.
    (I haven't done this for a long period of time yet, but I can do it for
    the occasional
    couple-miles-at-a-time-between-the-burrito-shop-and-office
    opportunities I've had, and it doesn't feel that bad.)

    Doing 15 mph on my geared 36 feels like a relaxing, easy cruise, and
    I'm on 165 cranks. I'm planning on going 150 or 137 very soon, as 165
    is way too long, but I'm totally sold on a geared 36. Maybe 137 will be
    too short, but I have to find out. I'm anticipating ending up on 150
    cranks after trying out the different lengths.

    Edit: What crank length I end up on is irrelevant, though... I think
    that a geared 36 would be your best bet for easy speed on a tour, and,
    for me, it'd be worth the cumber. (Considering I already have one 🙂) I
    could totally understand wanting a geared 29 over a geared 36, though,
    if space and luggability are a concern. That said, I'd get the 36 and
    put a KH schlumpf hub in it.

    that said, i don't think that an equivalent wheel size much higher than
    54 would be a good idea, except for very very flat ground and/or
    downhills; 54\" seems to be just easy enough to control on flat ground
    to be fast. (but maybe that's because i'm still in the
    falling-in-love-and-getting-used-to-it stage).

    --
    chuckaeronut

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    Unicycling: It doesn't get easier; you just do tougher stuff.
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  7. corbin said:


    IMHO, I've seen the future of unicycling and it is geared.

    Thank you.

    --
    harper

    -Greg Harper

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  8. I keep reading testamonials that a geared 36er is basically no faster
    than a fixed gear (1:1) 36er.

    Here's the thread-look at post #5, 6 from both Ken Looi and Roger from
    UDC (UK) I think it's safe to regard them as authorities on 36er's. and
    unicycling in general. http://tinyurl.com/3akc6c

    --
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  9. I've read those testimonials, too... I think you should try it, though.
    At least over the distances I've ridden so far (i.e. under 15 miles)
    I'm definitely way faster on my geared 36 with 165s than I was on my
    ungeared with 125s and 102s. These faster speeds feel very sustainable,
    but, obviously, as I haven't tried huge distances yet, I can't be sure.

    Perhaps it's different for different people?

    Due to the small cranks, I'm probably slower in first gear climbing
    some of the less-steep hills, but over flat ground there's no contest
    in the under-20 mile range. -For me!- So this is all IMHO of course;
    people can disagree (and I've only had my geared uni for a week!)

    --
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  10. MuniAddict said:

    I keep reading testamonials that a geared 36er is basically no faster
    than a fixed gear (1:1) 36er.

    Here's the thread-look at post #5, 6 from both Ken Looi and Roger from
    UDC (UK) I think it's safe to regard them as authorities on 36er's. and
    unicycling in general. http://tinyurl.com/3akc6c

    They are indeed both authorities, but they are also two of the fastest
    riders I have ever ridden with. Both Ken and Roger can cruise for
    hours at a cadence I find hard to maintain for more than a few minutes.

    Us mere mortals may find that either the geared or ungeared is
    significantly faster. My hunch though is that this will not be the
    case. I've done experiments in the past with different crank lengths
    and wheel sizes (29 vs 36) over a relatively hilly course and the
    verdict was that they all were capable of the same average speed over a
    hilly course. The perceived speed and comfort level varied markedly,
    along with the cadence required, but the actual time take to complete
    the loop was the same. A smaller, lighter wheel can be pushed around
    faster. If you are fit and strong enough that you can maintain a fast
    cadence you may find precious little difference between a 29er and a
    36er over a varied course.

    When I get my geared 29er I'll run some more experiments to compare it
    against an ungeared 29er and ungeared 36, with a bunch of different
    crank lengths.

    --
    peter.bier

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  11. When you pass Beau Hoover on the road, you know you have an equipment
    advantage. Doing a RTL simulation race from San Francisco to Santa
    Cruz, Mike Scalisi did just that; after Totally Doable beat Yellow Line
    Fever down the coastline, Nathan went home and ordered a Schlumpf.

    Maybe we would have beaten them on equivalent equipment, but it has
    been obvious in our experiments that every rider in the Bay Area who's
    gotten comfortable on one is faster on a geared uni than he is on a
    plain 36er. As phlegm notes, this isn't true in 100% of road
    conditions; there are some uphills which are too much work to do in the
    high gear and too slow in the low gear. But over the course of a long
    ride, it's been pretty clear that the GUnis are faster.

    For unsupported or lightly-supported touring, I would be torn between a
    geared 29er, and a stock 36er. The geared 29er is easier to transport
    and manage, and is more versatile. The stock 36er is mechanically
    simpler and less likely to fail.

    In either case, I would use a steel frame, for reliability and
    repairability.

    --
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  12. I read of a guy who put two of something like 'these '
    (http://tinyurl.com/3xxk26)on his 36, front and rear, plus a
    camelpack.

    W/ the rear rack and backpack (not quite enough storage for him to go
    unsuported) it was more difficult to make sharp turns, stop suddenly,
    and freemount, also he had to lean forward more than usual while
    riding. I don't remember how it handled when he added the front rack.

    --
    skilewis74

    Ride everywhere and never just ride anywhere. If you can ride where you
    are going within a hour, do it, and if you can do a trick 50-75% of the
    time do it along the way.- Bob Burnquist

    What next? 'IUF skill levels'
    (http://www.unicycling.org/iuf/levels/)*'
    Street'
    (http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/The_Unicyclopedia/Street)*'unicycletips.com'
    (http://unicycletips.com/)*'Trials class system'
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  13. I am actually looking at getting a rack for my unicycle like the one you
    posted. The problem is, however, that all of them have angles. I
    don't think anyone makes a straight rack that attaches to a seatpost.

    This might not be an issue though because if I used an angled rack, it
    would just slant down like this \ toward the seat post. This would
    hopefully allow me to bungee a sleeping bag and sleeping pad on the top
    and some tools and other heavy things on the bottom with a wedge.

    Getting some bulk/weight off my back would help and then all I would
    need to carry on my back would be 3 liters of water, food, and light
    weight layers.

    I am finalizing my gear for my pittsburgh to dc ride and further
    unicycle tours this summer. I will make a post when I get everything
    together.

    --
    siafirede

    'DCuni' (http://www.dcuni.com/blog) - my blog about Unicycling in
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  14. I hated having a rack on when I tried it, it makes the unicycle handle
    like a barge, even when unloaded, and once I put 3 kg of junk on it, it
    was really very bad.

    I have ridden with a sleeping bag strapped onto the bottom of my seat
    at the back. If you strap it tightly with a strap over the seat to stop
    it falling down, and a strap round the seatpost, you can make it so
    that it doesn't wobble, and stays parallel to the seat. It affects
    handling way less than putting a rack on, I did 150 miles like this no
    problems.

    I think racks and panniers are great on bikes, as they don't massively
    affect the handling, but they are way less useful for unicycles, where
    they typically make the ride suck.

    Joe

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  15. Last night I bought the Topeak QR Beam RX Beam Rack - E-Type.

    [image: http://media.rei.com/media/832020.jpg]

    It attaches to my seat post and it slants up.

    The weight of the rack and a bag on it alone has not really felt that
    much different. My balance is not thrown off at all with little weight
    on it, and I am going to try strapping my sleeping bag to it and
    something underneath it and see how it feels, but so far it seems like
    it will do the trick. I think the slant of the rack (all seat post
    mounted racks will slant up on a unicycle seat post) helps with the
    balance. If it was a straight rack the weight would be further out,
    but since it is slanted and close to the seat, it really doesn't seem
    like it will affect the handling too much. I will take some pictures
    and test it out in the next few days and report back.

    --
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  16. What's the weight of the rack?

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  17. with the side mounts for paniers, it is 545g

    I will probably remove the bottom side mounts though and save some
    weight since I will not be using paniers.

    --
    siafirede

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  18. Hey, a random thought, is that no-one has suggested a 24" geared muni.
    It'd enable touring over proper technical muni, plus you'd be able to
    do the easy bits at almost coker speed.

    Possibly not the right thing for rides with much road, but it'd be
    great for more remote trips.

    Joe

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  19. joemarshall said:

    Hey, a random thought, is that no-one has suggested a 24" geared muni.
    It'd enable touring over proper technical muni, plus you'd be able to
    do the easy bits at almost coker speed.

    It would indeed make a fantastic unicycle, and there'd be some
    situations where it would certainly be the best option. But as for The
    Ultimate Touring Machine? Probably not.

    It's still there on my wish list though.

    STM

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  20. joemarshall said:

    Hey, a random thought, is that no-one has suggested a 24" geared muni.
    It'd enable touring over proper technical muni, plus you'd be able to
    do the easy bits at almost coker speed.

    Possibly not the right thing for rides with much road, but it'd be
    great for more remote trips.

    Joe

    Joe, this is what we're looking at for our Panama trip. There are some
    dirt road sections, and even some regular roads once we hit Panama City
    proper, and for those, a 1.5 gear-up 24" might be nice. Then there
    will be gnarly jungle sections and rock canyons where the technical
    abilities of a 24" muni are the thing to have.

    --
    steveyo

    steveyo
    ...like having your own personal rollercoaster...

    - a few 'uni race write-ups'
    (http://home.nycap.rr.com/rduhan/uni_race_writeups/)
    - muni and kokopelli uni 't-shirts, mugs and stickers'
    (http://www.cafepress.com/steveyo)
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