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The curse of snapping spokes

Started by Vernon Levy · · Last activity · 10 posts · 696 views

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UK and Europe
Published
13 June 2004
Last activity
14 June 2004
Original author
Vernon Levy
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10
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  1. For the second weekend in a row I have managed to snap
    spokes in the rear wheel of my road bike.

    The first time, I could link the sanpping to hitting a pot
    hole the dul ping as the spoke head snapped off at the hub
    coincided with the impact.

    Having had the spok replaced and the wheel trued, a spoke
    snapped within 25 miles. Pot holes were studiously avoided
    and there wer no significant jarring loads on the wheel
    prior to the second spoke failure. Is this just bad luck or
    should I consider having the wheel re-laced with heavier
    gauge spokes? I am still a porky 20 stone the wheel has a
    Shimano Sora hub and a Rigida rim if that is any help.

  2. vernon levy said:

    For the second weekend in a row I have managed to snap
    spokes in the rear wheel of my road bike.

    The first time, I could link the sanpping to hitting a pot
    hole the dul ping as the spoke head snapped off at the hub
    coincided with the impact.

    Having had the spok replaced and the wheel trued, a spoke
    snapped within 25 miles. Pot holes were studiously avoided
    and there wer no significant jarring loads on the wheel
    prior to the second spoke failure. Is this just bad luck
    or should I consider having the wheel re-laced with
    heavier gauge spokes? I am still a porky 20 stone the
    wheel has a Shimano Sora hub and a Rigida rim if that is
    any help.

    Its a badly built wheel. You don't need heavier gauge
    spokes, you just need the ones you have used properly. The
    problem you have is the spoke tension is too low and the
    spokes have not been stress relieved after the wheel was
    tensioned. Ask around the local clubs for a good local
    builder or else spend the money instead on The Bicycle Wheel
    by Jobst Brant and a spoke key and do it properly yourself.

    Tony

  3. Good advice Tony but 20 stone is a lot. I'm big and it's
    like me touring carrying more than 5 stone of luggage, which
    is 70 lb. I've never carried more than 35, and I was lighter
    then. If a rebuild does not solve the problem, he might need
    a really strong wheel.

  4. Gearóid Ó Laoi/Garry Lee said:

    Good advice Tony but 20 stone is a lot.

    All the same, a hand tensioned wheel should be strong
    enough. I know people who ride tandems with 36 spoke wheels,

    Guy
    --
    May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
    chapmancentral.co.ukchapmancentral.co.uk

    88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University

  5. Gearóid Ó Laoi/Garry Lee said:

    Good advice Tony but 20 stone is a lot. I'm big and it's
    like me touring carrying more than 5 stone of luggage,
    which is 70 lb. I've never carried more than 35, and I was
    lighter then. If a rebuild does not solve the problem, he
    might need a really strong wheel.

    I'm four stone lighter and ride 36 spoke wheels on some
    quite rocky off-road which gives them a pounding they will
    never see on road plus I ride 40 spoke wheels on touring
    tandems with luggage for two, two people and only two wheels
    to carry all that weight with only 10% more spokes. A
    standard 36 spoke wheel will do fine for 20 stone if
    properly built.

    Tony

  6. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Good advice Tony but 20 stone is a lot.

    But I'm a light twenty stone :-)

    Quoted message said:


    All the same, a hand tensioned wheel should be
    strong enough. I know people who ride tandems with
    36 spoke wheels,


    When I took the wheel in the first time, I asked about
    heavier gauge spokes and the LBS reckoned that heavier gauge
    spokes should not be necessary. The tension on the spokes
    after repair was noticeably higher. I'll ask again when I
    take the wheel in tomorrow.

    None of my other bikes have had this problem. I've only done
    250 miles on the road bike. Perhaps it's the highly strung
    nature of such beasts. :-)

    BTW

    what is the going rate for a rebuild?

    cheers

    Vernon in Leeds

  7. Tony Raven said:

    Its a badly built wheel. You don't need heavier gauge
    spokes, you just need the ones you have used properly. The
    problem you have is the spoke tension is too low and the
    spokes have not been stress relieved after the wheel was
    tensioned.

    1. The wheel probably was built poorly, but still, some
    spokes are better than others and it's sensible for
    heavier riders to use better than average spokes.

    2. Jobst Brandt claimed low tension does not increase
    fatigue when I mentioned the subject on
    rec.bicycles.tech. So probably lack of stress relieving
    and/or inadequate spoke type/number is responsible for
    Vernon's problems rather than low/uneven tension (which
    is more relevant to general strength and ability to
    stay true).

    ~PB

  8. "Tony Raven" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm four stone lighter and ride 36 spoke wheels on some
    quite rocky


    off-road

    Quoted message said:

    which gives them a pounding they will never see on road
    plus I ride 40


    spoke

    Quoted message said:

    wheels on touring tandems with luggage for two, two people
    and only two


    wheels

    Quoted message said:

    to carry all that weight with only 10% more spokes. A
    standard 36 spoke


    wheel

    Quoted message said:

    will do fine for 20 stone if properly built.

    Wheel size makes a difference in all of this - Vernon is
    talking about 700's, your mtb rims are 26" and have big fat
    tyres to cushion the pounding.

    But our tandem wheels (on + off road) are all 36 spoke/26",
    and I agree with you really - Vernon just needs his wheels
    building properly.

    cheers, clive

  9. vernon levy said:

    For the second weekend in a row I have managed to snap
    spokes in the rear wheel of my road bike.

    The first time, I could link the sanpping to hitting a pot
    hole the dul ping as the spoke head snapped off at the hub
    coincided with the impact.

    The pothole was only the final straw. The spoke will have
    been fatiguing all the while before that.

    Quoted message said:

    Having had the spok replaced and the wheel trued, a spoke
    snapped within 25 miles. Pot holes were studiously avoided
    and there wer no significant jarring loads on the wheel
    prior to the second spoke failure. Is this just bad luck
    or should I consider having the wheel re-laced with
    heavier gauge spokes? I am still a porky 20 stone the
    wheel has a Shimano Sora hub and a Rigida rim if that is
    any help.

    You may not /need/ better spokes (I don't know what you've
    got) but DT Alpine III (2.3/1.8/2.0) should be ideal if you
    do ever respoke the wheel or get a new wheel. Also consider
    switching to a 36-spoke rear wheel if you have a 32 now.
    It's important that the spokes are properly stress
    relieved*. Not all builders do this, unfortunately.

    * draco.acs.uci.edu8c.1.html

    ~PB

  10. In article <[email hidden]>, "Just zis

    Guy said:

    All the same, a hand tensioned wheel should be
    strong enough. I know people who ride tandems with
    36 spoke wheels,

    Our hiring tandems all have heavier gauge spokes and don't
    cause problems.

    --
    A T (Sandy) Morton on the Bicycle Island In the Global
    Village millport.netmillport.net

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