swapping pedals?

"Aeek" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm trying to swap SPD and KEO pedals between 2 bikes, something that I
plan to do regulary.
Got a pedal spanner, which doesn't seem to fit anything 🙁
I can unscrew the pedals, but the axles seem different - thread length for
a start.

Different thread length shouldn't be a major problem. It's the pitch of the
thread that matters (ie. no of threads per inch). As far as I am aware all
bikes use the same size axle and thread, that can be removed with a standard
15mm open end spanner. The only exception to this would be some small
kiddies bikes (sub-20"😉 and those crappy American ashtabula one-piece
cranks. They use a smaller pedal spindle diameter. Doubt you would have
either of these though.

Of course the full-tilt DH dood world may have come up with a new pedal size
that no-one else uses 'cos it doesn't flex, but I haven't heard about it.

Quoted message said:

I should be swapping the axles? but how?

Unlikely that you should need to go to this length.

Cheers
Peter

Aeek said:

I'm trying to swap SPD and KEO pedals between 2 bikes, something that I plan to do regulary.
Got a pedal spanner, which doesn't seem to fit anything 🙁

15mm (pedal spanner) or a 5 or 6 mm allen key will undo just about any
pedal in common use.

Quoted message said:

I can unscrew the pedals, but the axles seem different - thread length for a start.
I should be swapping the axles? but how?

No.

Quoted message said:

Didn't find anything on sheldon brown.

They should just work. Be aware that one side is left hand thread,
which may confuse you at first. The pedals will be labeled left and
right somewhere.

"Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Aeek said:

I'm trying to swap SPD and KEO pedals between 2 bikes, something that I
plan to do regulary.
Got a pedal spanner, which doesn't seem to fit anything 🙁

15mm (pedal spanner) or a 5 or 6 mm allen key will undo just about any
pedal in common use.

Quoted message said:

I can unscrew the pedals, but the axles seem different - thread length
for a start.
I should be swapping the axles? but how?

No.

Quoted message said:

Didn't find anything on sheldon brown.

They should just work. Be aware that one side is left hand thread,
which may confuse you at first. The pedals will be labeled left and
right somewhere.

The Keo pedals require an 8mm allen key. Look at the end of the pedal axle.
You will see a hole in the end that takes the allen key.
It needs to be screwed in from the inside of the crank arm.
Left pedal - left thread, right pedal - right hand thread (normal thread)

Pete

vesel said:

The Keo pedals require an 8mm allen key.

Those damn Frenchies!

Quoted message said:

The Keo pedals require an 8mm allen key.

Same with Eggbeaters.

Donga said:

Quoted message said:

The Keo pedals require an 8mm allen key.

Same with Eggbeaters.

My kitchen whisk uses torx drivers to hold the plastic cover on.

Ahh standards, so many to choose from ...

quote='Bleve'vesel said:

The Keo pedals require an 8mm allen key.

Those damn Frenchies![/QUOTE]
As do Dura Ace SPD-SLs.
Much better and neater option IMHO.
As for torx, my FSA cranks use them for securing the chainrings - a better solution still than allen heads.

So what was the question???🙄

MalP said:

Bleve said:

vesel said:

The Keo pedals require an 8mm allen key.

Those damn Frenchies!

As do Dura Ace SPD-SLs.
Much better and neater option IMHO.

as do my SPDs, wow, standardisation!

OK I know they're left/right threaded.
I've even got other pedals so I can study the thread, but my brain is not computing it.
If I have the allen key through the right crank, pointed to the back of the bike, do I pull up or push down?

Andre

"Aeek" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

MalP said:

Bleve said:

vesel wrote:

> The Keo pedals require an 8mm allen key.

Those damn Frenchies!

As do Dura Ace SPD-SLs.
Much better and neater option IMHO.

as do my SPDs, wow, standardisation!

OK I know they're left/right threaded.
I've even got other pedals so I can study the thread, but my brain is not
computing it.
If I have the allen key through the right crank, pointed to the back of
the bike, do I pull up or push down?

Andre

Pull up. You're spinning the pedal from the "back" as it were and therefore
need to turn it counter-clockwise from the point of view of the allen key.
Conveniently, if you've got the same arrangement on the other side, you pull
up there as well because the whole setup is a mirror image. I'm assuming
here that you want to tighten the pedals. Point the crank forward before you
do this so that the key and crank are more or less aligned with each other.
The reason for this is so that you have less leverage to actually spin the
crank rather than the pedal within the crank.

Resound' [email protected] said:

Pull up. You're spinning the pedal from the "back" as it were and therefore
need to turn it counter-clockwise from the point of view of the allen key.
Conveniently, if you've got the same arrangement on the other side, you pull
up there as well because the whole setup is a mirror image. I'm assuming
here that you want to tighten the pedals.

I'm glad you clarified, as soon as I posted I thought should I have specifed "and undoing".

With my hyper "developed" roadie arms,
I was never going to get them to budge UNTIL I remembered the 64cm offcut shower rail.
I used that as a sleeve on the allen key and finally had enough leverage. Almost easy.
Glad it was an 8mm allen key. Long and solid.

So now my track bike has race pedals for the club championships! over 2 evenings with
a crit between, then the trackie winters as a fixie with a front brake.
Which is why I couldn't just pay money to a LBS, much swapping of pedals
and then there's next track season.

Andre