I'm trying to remove the cassette on my 2001 Galaxy in order to service the rear hub which is very noisy.
I couldn't get the lockring to undo using my super [censored] cassette lockring tool. No bother, I thought, so upgraded to a Park one. Using the QR skewer etc in place, the longest wrench I can find and a chain whip, I can't get the lockring to budge one bit.
Is it down to the (not-so local) LBS for me to see if they can budge it? If so, what might they do differently from me (other than having more strength, maybe)?
"tom" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Hi all,
I'm trying to remove the cassette on my 2001 Galaxy in order to service the rear hub which is very noisy.
I couldn't get the lockring to undo using my super [censored] cassette lockring tool. No bother, I thought, so upgraded to a Park one. Using the QR skewer etc in place, the longest wrench I can find and a chain whip, I can't get the lockring to budge one bit.
Is it down to the (not-so local) LBS for me to see if they can budge it? If so, what might they do differently from me (other than having more strength, maybe)?
Stupid question : you are undoing it the right way, aren't you? (ie the chainwhip is doing something)
Stupid question : you are undoing it the right way, aren't you? (ie the chainwhip is doing something)
Yep. It hurts my hand big style, because I've got more leverage from the wrench. I kept double checking the arrow on the cassette to make sure, because I was so confused by non-movement.
I've been following the Zinn book and the Park web site guide on the subject.. Hmm.
I'm trying to remove the cassette on my 2001 Galaxy in order to service the rear hub which is very noisy.
I couldn't get the lockring to undo using my super [censored] cassette lockring tool. No bother, I thought, so upgraded to a Park one. Using the QR skewer etc in place, the longest wrench I can find and a chain whip, I can't get the lockring to budge one bit.
Are you really certain you're turning it the right way?
Quoted message said:
Is it down to the (not-so local) LBS for me to see if they can budge it? If so, what might they do differently from me (other than having more strength, maybe)?
I stand with the wheel resting against my legs (tyre on and fully inflated to avoid damage to the rim) with the cassette facing away from me. Chain whip in left hand, spanner in right hand, push down hard on both. Actually you don't normally need to push very hard. Alternatively clamp the lockring tool flat in a bench vice and just heave on the chain whip (anti-clockwise as seen from above).
Try holding the removal tool in the vice and turning the whole wheel anticlockwise.............like a big steering wheel. Normally works for me.
SW
"tom" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Hi all,
I'm trying to remove the cassette on my 2001 Galaxy in order to service the rear hub which is very noisy.
I couldn't get the lockring to undo using my super [censored] cassette lockring tool. No bother, I thought, so upgraded to a Park one. Using the QR skewer etc in place, the longest wrench I can find and a chain whip, I can't get the lockring to budge one bit.
Is it down to the (not-so local) LBS for me to see if they can budge it? If so, what might they do differently from me (other than having more strength, maybe)?
Stupid question : you are undoing it the right way, aren't you? (ie the chainwhip is doing something)
Yep. It hurts my hand big style, because I've got more leverage from the wrench. I kept double checking the arrow on the cassette to make sure, because I was so confused by non-movement.
I've been following the Zinn book and the Park web site guide on the subject.. Hmm.
Try positioning the chain whip handle and the wrench handle close to each other so you can squeeze them together and then squeeze them together using both hands. You can apply a lot more force and more controlled this way than the usual hold one and lean on the other.
-- Tony
"Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using his intelligence; he is just using his memory." - Leonardo da Vinci
Are you really certain you're turning it the right way?
Yep. I tested my technique on my Dawes Audax and the lockring came undone with not too much force, which I am led to believe is the normal way of things!
Are you really certain you're turning it the right way?
Yep. I tested my technique on my Dawes Audax and the lockring came undone with not too much force, which I am led to believe is the normal way of things!
Are you sure its a cassette and not a freewheel?
-- Tony
"Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using his intelligence; he is just using his memory." - Leonardo da Vinci
Tony, I tried your squeeze technique with the wrench+chain whip. It felt like I was getting more leverage, you're right, but still no movement.
No vice at my disposal at the moment.. Is sudden force (ie a hit with a lump hammer on the wrench) a really bad idea?
No, try the lump hammer. Its best though if you can put the whip and wrench in the above squeeze position with the handle of one resting on a hard surface (top of a wall or such like) and then hit the other handle. Usually its getting the first budge out of it that's difficult. Once that has happened it tends to undo easily.
-- Tony
"Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using his intelligence; he is just using his memory." - Leonardo da Vinci
Tony, I tried your squeeze technique with the wrench+chain whip. It felt like I was getting more leverage, you're right, but still no movement.
No vice at my disposal at the moment.. Is sudden force (ie a hit with a lump hammer on the wrench) a really bad idea?
As an alternative, if you can lay hands on a piece of tube which will fit over the end of the wrench...
In the days of obstinate freewheels with big sprockets, I used a 10" adjustable spanner with a Bickerton seat tube artfully flattened at one end to extend the total length to about two of the BRITONS' feet. Back then a source of Bits of Borken Bickerton was readily available in the form of Lt. Col. Larrington (retd.), who would break Bickies with monotonous regularity until such time as they started flogging rebadged Dahons instead.
-- Dave Larrington <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk> Putting just the right amount of gin in your goldfish bowl makes the fishies' eyes bulge and causes them to swim in a very amusing manner.
In the days of obstinate freewheels with big sprockets, I used a 10" adjustable spanner with a Bickerton seat tube artfully flattened at one end to extend the total length to about two of the BRITONS' feet. Back then a source of Bits of Borken Bickerton was readily available in the form of Lt. Col. Larrington (retd.), who would break Bickies with monotonous regularity until such time as they started flogging rebadged Dahons instead.
Nothing like a tandem to weld the freewheel to the sprockets. Sometimes needed a gert big vice and two gert big folk tugging on the wheel to break it free.
On a tour once two cogs made a gentle tinkling sound as the remnants hit the tarmac. Had to disassemble the freewheel, with hammer & chisel, courtesy of a friendly NLBS, grip the body in a vice and grunt like hell to break it off. Colleague was on standby to DHL a complete new tandem wheel from the UK had we failed.
-- Tony
"Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using his intelligence; he is just using his memory." - Leonardo da Vinci
Nothing like a tandem to weld the freewheel to the sprockets. Sometimes needed a gert big vice and two gert big folk tugging on the wheel to break it free.
Indeed. I read somewhere that the old Sun Tour Alpine 14-38 freewheels were fit and forget in tandem use, coz once it'd done a few steep hills, no tool made of Man was ever going to get it off again.
Tony, I tried your squeeze technique with the wrench+chain whip. It felt like I was getting more leverage, you're right, but still no movement.
No vice at my disposal at the moment.. Is sudden force (ie a hit with a lump hammer on the wrench) a really bad idea?
No, try the lump hammer. Its best though if you can put the whip and wrench in the above squeeze position with the handle of one resting on a hard surface (top of a wall or such like) and then hit the other handle. Usually its getting the first budge out of it that's difficult. Once that has happened it tends to undo easily.
If you are goung along the percussive persuasion route, you might want to try giving the lockring a sharp tap along it's axis with a small hammer.
If all else fails I use a small pair of stilsons (18"😉. If I am at my dad's then I can borrow the medium sized ones (30" or 36"😉. His definition of large is 'as tall as him' (5'4"😉.
Nothing like a tandem to weld the freewheel to the sprockets. Sometimes needed a gert big vice and two gert big folk tugging on the wheel to break it free.
One of that was enough to convince me to put a cassette hub on. -- David Damerell <[email hidden]> Kill the tomato! Today is First Leicesterday, September.
"tom" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Thanks to all who replied.
To end this debacle, after hitting, groaning and trying all the tools at my disposal, I took it down the LBS.
They just put the wheel in a vice, had both tools with considerably longer handles than mine, and crunch. All done.
Maybe I'm just weak.
I doubt that your weak, these things just happen. I remember a friend who had a seized pedal on a crank; we tried everything with no success. In the end we used an extension bar on an adjustable spanner, which finally released it. She now religiously keeps the pedal threads greased.
