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Sultry, wet & rusty

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01 / Original postSultry, wet & rustyGlm · 22 Aug 2004 02 / This pagePosts 1–7Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #7Eric S. Sande · 22 Aug 2004

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Original section
Road Cycling
Published
22 August 2004
Last activity
22 August 2004
Original author
Glm
Posts
7
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Public discussion
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355
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0
Topics
Chain lube and cleaningChain lengthIndoor trainers

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  1. Original post
    Glm
    Archived post
    #1

    I have a six-week old bike which, if the LBS used the proper bits, has a
    Shimano HG-73 chain.

    Two days ago I degreased the chain and derailleurs (Ultegra) with Tri-Flow
    Citrus Degreaser. Removed the stuff with a small, hand-held water spray
    (best I could do on 57th Street!); likewise, sprayed the frame and pretty
    much everywhere else with regular tap water. Then dried it all off with a
    towel.

    I had to wait overnight before lubricating the bike (it was almost dark
    and I had to go to supper). Yesterday I re-lubed the chain with Phil
    Woods Tenacious Oil; applied Tri-Flow Dry to the brake housings and spots
    where the cables went into the frame, etc. I sprayed the derailleurs with
    a small amount of Finish Line Teflon Plus (also a dry lubricant) because I
    wasn't sure that I'd catch all the pivot points with the Tri-Flow nozzle.

    Am fairly sure I applied too much Tenacious Oil as when I was reverse
    pedaling the lube formed a cobweb between the pulley and a spot an inch or
    two into the chain length on the bottom side. Anyway, I wiped everything
    clean.

    Went out on the bike and it was almost silent. Could not hear even the
    slightest whirr from the drivetrain (unlike when I bought it). Am
    assuming that this was a good thing. Suspect that the Phil Woods is
    thicker than the lube that was originally applied?

    I was out in Manhattan about six miles from home today when lightning
    cracked its charged whip through the sky and the heavens opened. Both
    bike and I were truly drenched in the downpour (put my foot down on one
    street and the water swelled up to my sock)!

    Got home and wiped down the bike, including excess water off theh chain
    (although I tried not to remove the oil with it).

    Went out. Came back a few hours later.

    Chain is now starting to rust on most of the rollers!

    Clearly, I'll degrease and re-lube tomorrow morning (I live in a co-op and
    would be evicted if I even thought about doing it in a public area at this
    hour).

    I'm surprised that the chain is so quickly showing signs of oxidization.
    But, this is easily replaced (and I'm riding over 100 miles each week
    anyway). But, I am a little concerned about areas which I cannot see.

    Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is flawed
    in some way? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you very much.

    Glm

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  2. Tom Keats
    Archived post
    #2

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Glm said:


    Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is flawed
    in some way?

    I think your lubrication procedure is fine. I think your chain
    just got extra, extra wet & the Phil lube got flushed-out.
    Especially considering your wet sock scenario.

    Get fenders, they'll help preserve your chain ;-) But damn'd
    if I'm gonna recommend neoprene booties in the middle of August.
    Better to just not wear socks.

    Anyway, an overnight's worth of oxidation won't kill your chain.

    There's an aftermarket separatable link that actually works (as
    opposed to PowerLinks). I think they're called 'SuperLinks'.
    If you could undo your chain with such a commodity, and dunk it
    overnight in one of those automotive 'parts cleaner' cans that
    comes with a dunk tray in it, that would knock the rust right off,
    lickety-spit. And the parts cleaner liquid might leave enough of
    a film to prevent such minor rusting in future. Coal oil (kerosene)
    does, but it stinks too much for use in apartments or shared
    accomodations.

    cheers,
    Tom

    --
    -- Nothing is safe from me.
    Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

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  3. Glm
    Archived post
    #3
    Tom Keats said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Glm said:


    Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is
    flawed
    in some way?

    I think your lubrication procedure is fine. I think your chain
    just got extra, extra wet & the Phil lube got flushed-out.
    Especially considering your wet sock scenario.

    Get fenders, they'll help preserve your chain ;-) But damn'd
    if I'm gonna recommend neoprene booties in the middle of August.
    Better to just not wear socks.

    Anyway, an overnight's worth of oxidation won't kill your chain.

    There's an aftermarket separatable link that actually works (as
    opposed to PowerLinks). I think they're called 'SuperLinks'.
    If you could undo your chain with such a commodity, and dunk it
    overnight in one of those automotive 'parts cleaner' cans that
    comes with a dunk tray in it, that would knock the rust right off,
    lickety-spit. And the parts cleaner liquid might leave enough of
    a film to prevent such minor rusting in future. Coal oil (kerosene)
    does, but it stinks too much for use in apartments or shared
    accomodations.

    cheers,
    Tom

    Thank you, Tom. I appreciate the advice.

    --

    Glm

    millingtongl
    New York & Yahoo

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  4. maxo
    Archived post
    #4
    Glm said:

    Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is flawed
    in some way? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you very much.

    Glm

    You're doing a swell job with the lubricating, don't sweat it. 😄

    If you're worried about oxidation or just want a pretty chain at all
    times, there are different chain models, some stainless, some nickel
    plated, that will stay "fresher" looking.

    I might just have to order a nickel one myself as my basic Sram is on its
    last legs. They're shiny and help you go faster! 😉

    Report
  5. Tom Keats
    Archived post
    #5

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Glm said:

    Thank you, Tom. I appreciate the advice.

    Well, the main thing is, you did everything right.
    It's just that abnormal weather screwed everything
    up on you.

    Just do what you did, again, and see what happens.
    At least it won't hurt. And it's certainly not
    unusual to have to re-lube after riding in the rain.

    cheers,
    Tom

    --
    -- Nothing is safe from me.
    Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

    Report
  6. Glm
    Archived post
    #6
    maxo said:


    I might just have to order a nickel one myself as my basic Sram is on its
    last legs. They're shiny and help you go faster! 😉

    Then all I shall need will be a big 'TURBO' sticker... 😉

    Thanks for the response. When I replace this chain in a couple of
    months's time (1,500 miles or so?) I'll look into getting a different one.

    Glm

    Report
  7. Eric S. Sande
    Archived post
    #7
    Quoted message said:

    Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is
    flawed in some way?

    I can't see how. I park outdoors and it frequently rains, I'm a daily
    commuter. Of course I park in a semi-sheltered area and I wipe my chain
    down occasionally with regular motor oil.

    Once in a while I'll actually clean or replace the chain.

    But the fact is, I've seen other people's chains. They are by and
    large dry and rusty, not the slick new shiny clean metal you are
    going to expect out of a moderately capable regular cyclist.

    A regular chain overhaul and general gear train inspection and
    renewal is therefore recommended.

    --

    _______________________ALL AMIGA IN MY MIND_______________________
    ------------------"Buddy Holly, the Texas Elvis"------------------
    __________306.350.357.38>>[email hidden]__________

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