stuck DA crank arm

"Dave Mills" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

OK,somehow I managed to get a DA left crankarm stuck on the

hollow

Quoted message said:

spindle BB- maybe got some grit in it or misaligned. At any

rate, the

Quoted message said:

aluminum cap that the self extracting bolt pushes against got

completely

Quoted message said:

pulled out and threads stripped when I tried to remove it (yes

it was

Quoted message said:

threaded all the way in to start with).

The way I see it my best option is to thread a long bolt in

through the

Quoted message said:

oposite side so as to have a solid surface to press against,

then try a

Quoted message said:

regular crack puller with steel threads.

Does anyone know the bolt diameter/ thread pattern to order?

Any other

Quoted message said:

ideas, esp. if I strip the threads on the crankarm itself?

Skip the special bolt and just use the appropriate Park remover
for hollow spindle BBs (it has a large round plate at the base of
the extracting screw). Your local shop should be able to do this
in a minute or two. If that does not work, try heating and
expanding the aluminum. If that does not work, and the threads
are shot by then, VAR makes a universal remover which will do the
trick. If that does not work, hack saw baby! -- Jay Beattie.

Dave Mills said:

OK,somehow I managed to get a DA left crankarm stuck on the hollow
spindle BB- maybe got some grit in it or misaligned. At any rate, the
aluminum cap that the self extracting bolt pushes against got completely
pulled out and threads stripped when I tried to remove it (yes it was
threaded all the way in to start with).

The way I see it my best option is to thread a long bolt in through the
oposite side so as to have a solid surface to press against, then try a
regular crack puller with steel threads.

Does anyone know the bolt diameter/ thread pattern to order? Any other
ideas, esp. if I strip the threads on the crankarm itself?

A good service shop will have a remover for that which spans
the outside of the crank arm.
Next time, shoot some oil in the cap before removing one-key
cranks. The bolt can spin better against the inside of the
cap, more force for removal, less friction.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks, that gives me some options. Hack saw was last on my list also!

Jay Beattie said:

"Dave Mills" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

OK,somehow I managed to get a DA left crankarm stuck on the

hollow

Quoted message said:

spindle BB- maybe got some grit in it or misaligned. At any

rate, the

Quoted message said:

aluminum cap that the self extracting bolt pushes against got

completely

Quoted message said:

pulled out and threads stripped when I tried to remove it (yes

it was

Quoted message said:

threaded all the way in to start with).

The way I see it my best option is to thread a long bolt in

through the

Quoted message said:

oposite side so as to have a solid surface to press against,

then try a

Quoted message said:

regular crack puller with steel threads.

Does anyone know the bolt diameter/ thread pattern to order?

Any other

Quoted message said:

ideas, esp. if I strip the threads on the crankarm itself?

Skip the special bolt and just use the appropriate Park remover
for hollow spindle BBs (it has a large round plate at the base of
the extracting screw). Your local shop should be able to do this
in a minute or two. If that does not work, try heating and
expanding the aluminum. If that does not work, and the threads
are shot by then, VAR makes a universal remover which will do the
trick. If that does not work, hack saw baby! -- Jay Beattie.

Thanks.

A Muzi said:

Dave Mills said:

OK,somehow I managed to get a DA left crankarm stuck on the hollow
spindle BB- maybe got some grit in it or misaligned. At any rate, the
aluminum cap that the self extracting bolt pushes against got
completely pulled out and threads stripped when I tried to remove it
(yes it was threaded all the way in to start with).

The way I see it my best option is to thread a long bolt in through
the oposite side so as to have a solid surface to press against, then
try a regular crack puller with steel threads.

Does anyone know the bolt diameter/ thread pattern to order? Any
other ideas, esp. if I strip the threads on the crankarm itself?

A good service shop will have a remover for that which spans the outside
of the crank arm.
Next time, shoot some oil in the cap before removing one-key cranks.
The bolt can spin better against the inside of the cap, more force for
removal, less friction.

Jay Beattie said:

Skip the special bolt and just use the appropriate Park remover
for hollow spindle BBs (it has a large round plate at the base of
the extracting screw).

I have to say I've never been impressed with Park's crank pullers. If
you're determined to DIY, I'd recommend the appropriate Shimano tools.
I'm holding their puller in my hand (or was before I started typing
this sentence) but unfortunately there's no part number on the tool.
Some web searching finds it might be TL-FC10. The splined shaft
adaptor (required for the OP's application) is part number TL-FC15.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3