Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

stem rise +/- question

Started by jrstevens · · Last activity · 13 posts · 1,317 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
17 November 2006
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18 November 2006
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jrstevens
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  1. I need a little help here understanding stem rise. The stem I own currently is 84/96 which I assume is the same as +/-6. I have it set in the more aggressive position however it is not quite horizontal. If a stem is advertised as 80 or +/-10 will that be horizontal in the aggressive position?

    JS

  2. jrstevens said:

    I need a little help here understanding stem rise. The stem I own currently is 84/96 which I assume is the same as +/-6. I have it set in the more aggressive position however it is not quite horizontal. If a stem is advertised as 80 or +/-10 will that be horizontal in the aggressive position?

    JS

    I see there is also a 73 (17) stem. Does that thing point down?

  3. On a related note, is it just me or are other people upset that it is pretty damned hard to find a truly horizontal stem? Nearly everything is slightly angled up.

  4. jrstevens said:

    I need a little help here understanding stem rise. The stem I own currently is 84/96 which I assume is the same as +/-6. I have it set in the more aggressive position however it is not quite horizontal. If a stem is advertised as 80 or +/-10 will that be horizontal in the aggressive position?

    JS

    You need to know what your headtube angle is (almost all manufacturers are going to list this for specific models and frame sizes in their geometry charts) . This combined with your stem angle determines it's rise. (e.g. if you have a 73° head tube angle then a -17° stem is going to have 0 rise or be horizontal).

    The following excel spreadsheet is useful for also quickly determining how your reach and rise are both going to change with relative angle and stem length.

    hammerheadbikes.comstemcalculator.xls

    Unless you are changing frames you should really be concerned about the drop and reach for proper fit, rather than how the stem appears.

  5. serenaslu said:

    You need to know what your headtube angle is (almost all manufacturers are going to list this for specific models and frame sizes in their geometry charts) . This combined with your stem angle determines it's rise. (e.g. if you have a 73° head tube angle then a -17° stem is going to have 0 rise or be horizontal).

    The following excel spreadsheet is useful for also quickly determining how your reach and rise are both going to change with relative angle and stem length.

    hammerheadbikes.comstemcalculator.xls

    Unless you are changing frames you should really be concerned about the drop and reach for proper fit, rather than how the stem appears.

    wow, what a useful tool that spreadsheet is. indeed I am changing bikes (and stems) so with a different top tube length, head angle, and a new +/- rise stem I should be able to replicate what I have now with this spreadsheet. Thanks,

    James

  6. Bro Deal said:

    On a related note, is it just me or are other people upset that it is pretty damned hard to find a truly horizontal stem? Nearly everything is slightly angled up.

    I agree.

  7. John M said:

    I agree.

    Why do you want a stem that is perfect (or very very close to) horizontal? Aesthetics? If it keeps your handlebars correct, why bother if it's horizontal or angled up? If it's angled up, I'll be lighter (with the handlebars in the same position) even if we're only talking about very few grams here. Perhaps even stiffer. Again only by a tiny bit.

  8. Strid said:

    Why do you want a stem that is perfect (or very very close to) horizontal? Aesthetics? If it keeps your handlebars correct, why bother if it's horizontal or angled up? If it's angled up, I'll be lighter (with the handlebars in the same position) even if we're only talking about very few grams here. Perhaps even stiffer. Again only by a tiny bit.

    The upsloping stems don't allow me to get the handlebar as low as I like it. In fact I am looking for a downsloping stem that doesn't weigh what the LOOK ergo stem or other adjustable stems weigh--any ideas?

  9. Strid said:

    Why do you want a stem that is perfect (or very very close to) horizontal? Aesthetics? If it keeps your handlebars correct, why bother if it's horizontal or angled up? If it's angled up, I'll be lighter (with the handlebars in the same position) even if we're only talking about very few grams here. Perhaps even stiffer. Again only by a tiny bit.

    how do you manage being lighter either way; if it's the same stem and length the weight shouldn't change angled up or down no?

  10. Strid said:

    Why do you want a stem that is perfect (or very very close to) horizontal? Aesthetics? If it keeps your handlebars correct, why bother if it's horizontal or angled up? If it's angled up, I'll be lighter (with the handlebars in the same position) even if we're only talking about very few grams here. Perhaps even stiffer. Again only by a tiny bit.


    It is partly aesthetics, but it is also a matter of fit. Most of the stems manufactured today seem to be made for compact frames that are too small for the rider, so they need an upward sloping stem to compensate. I only buy traditional geometry frames--compact frame are fugly and big ,manufacturers only make a few sizes so they can rip off their customers--and since I buy frames that actually fit down to the centimeter, I don't need an upward angled stem.

  11. there's also this thing

    Image in stem rise +/- question

    http://www.habcycles.com/stemfit.jpg

  12. jrstevens said:

    how do you manage being lighter either way; if it's the same stem and length the weight shouldn't change angled up or down no?


    I know this is an ugly 1 minute picture, but still, I think it displays my point pretty well. Both the picture on the left and right has the handlebars in the exact same place relative to the frame, but the stem i mounted differently. On the picture to the right you'll get a stiffer system, because the mounting is more closer (or direct) to the frame and you'll get to cut off a few centimeters of the fork tube (sorry, I'm missing the English term here). I know this is an extreme example, but you get my point!

    EDIT: Don't get me wrong; I agree that a stem that points upwards a lot looks dorky!! 🙂

  13. Bro Deal said:

    I only buy traditional geometry frames--compact frame are fugly and big ,manufacturers only make a few sizes so they can rip off their customers--and since I buy frames that actually fit down to the centimeter, I don't need an upward angled stem.

    Now you are my new best friend😄 I hate compacts, can't fit drink bottles. Speaking of stems, I have recently found out I have short femurs and need a zero-setback seatpost and a 100-110 stem to get the most out of myself. Any recommendations for a 100 17degree stem? Thomson is the ultimate seatpost.

    Strid. Getting a stiff stem compared to a flexy one will solve that problem. If it means an extra 20g, who cares. I'd rather have a horizontal heavy stem than an upwards light stem. Upwards stems completely ruin the look of a bike.

    Oh, yeah, about the downwards pointing stem. Try an Oval R710 adjustable. Claimed weight of 200g. not bad, only 40g heavier than a normal stem.

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