Stem Bolt and Carbon Seat Post Torque

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by lawrenpx
Hi,

Do need to use a torque wrench for any of these? I have heard of some cyclists tightening too much, to the point of cracking or damaging things.

Thanks,
Paul

Depends on how good a sense of feel you have.The ham fisted bugger alot of things. Grease the bolts.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by lawrenpx
Hi,

I would appreciate any advice on the following since I have no LBS to help me out (I live overseas):

I just bought a new handle bar stem, Deda Newton 26, and was wondering if I should be using a torque wrench to tighten the bolts which hold the stem onto the handle bar. On Deda's website they mention "Tighteen torque (5,9 ft.-lbs)(71in.-lbs)" but this apply to the bolts?

I also just bought a new carbon seat post, Campy Record 2004, and was wondering how much torque should I apply.

Do need to use a torque wrench for any of these? I have heard of some cyclists tightening too much, to the point of cracking or damaging things.

Thanks,
Paul

I have a Deda Newton oversized bar and stem. If yours is like mine the bolts are titanium and you will definately want to be using a torque wrench. From memory the bolts for the stem to stearer tube are the same size as the bolts for the face plate to lock down the handlebar. If so they should get the same torque as specified on the website.

Like the other guy says grease the threads on the bolts (in fact you should always grease threads). Be very careful to tighten with a cross pattern on the face plate switching after about 5-10 in/lb of torque on each bolt until you get all up to specified torque. Same with the bolts to fasten to the stearer tube, swap back and forth after about 5-10 in/lb until you get them both to specified torque. When you get it up near the proper torque it will start to creak when you tighten it. Don't panic just go slow and get it up to the proper torque.

As for the seatpost I got the Deda blackstick carbon to match. I searched and couldn't find anything on how tight it should be. In the end I figured it should be tightened just like an aluminum one and should be snug enough so the post can't move but not too snug. I prayed and then started tightening and then prayed some more and tightened some more. Just kidding really, you should be able to feel this one out to get it snug without overtightening it. If in doubt undertighten it and then ride it. If it moves tighten a little more.

Now for the torque wrench your going to need a set of hex bits to fit into the torque wrench so you can tighten the bolts. Since I was putting a new bike together when I did mine I invested another 50 bucks or so and got both of the park tool torque wrenches and a hex bit set.

Check out TW-1, TW-2 and TWB-1 on this web page and they have what you need.

http://www.parktool.com/tool_indexes/catindex_torque.shtml

I found the smaller torque wrench was perfect for bolts in the 3-5 mm range, but you will probably not find a hex bit set with 1/4 inch drive so you will need a 3/4 to 1/4 adapter to put a 3/4 drive hex bit into the 1/4 drive torque wrench.

You may also be able to find this or borrow it locally as well.

Cheers

As a general rule you should always use a torque wrench to tighten anything on the bike, particularly highly important areas like the stem. Just make sure to always clean the bolts and grease them before hand so they go in smooth. A seized or dirty bolt will give a false reading.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Hecubus
As a general rule you should always use a torque wrench to tighten anything on the bike,

That's just alot of hooey. The hamfisted bugger things even with a torque wrench.

I hand tighten everything - been doing that for years and always check the torque after a few rides.
With carbon stuff I think I may change my tune. The amount of torque on my frame to tighten the carbon seat post so it would not slip was higher than I would normally "hand feel"

Teff

I know of a half dozen quite experienced cyclists in my area who have cracked parts torquing to the manufacturers guidelines. They all torqued the stem bolts in a cross order and greased their bolts, both stem and seat post clamp, beforehand.

I am thinking to be on the safe side it would be best to not torque as high as specified but still use the torque wrench to insure a controlled torque amount.

Anyone have similar experiences?

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by lawrenpx
I know of a half dozen quite experienced cyclists in my area who have cracked parts torquing to the manufacturers guidelines. They all torqued the stem bolts in a cross order and greased their bolts, both stem and seat post clamp, beforehand.

I am thinking to be on the safe side it would be best to not torque as high as specified but still use the torque wrench to insure a controlled torque amount.

Anyone have similar experiences?

I built a whole bike from the frame up back in May using the 2 Park Tool torque wrenches. For the higher torques for crank arms, cassette lock ring etc. I went up to recomended torque. For the more delicate stuff with smaller bolts in the 3-4 mm range I went near the recommended torque but not quite all the way. Like for the Deda stem bolts that say 8 nm I went to 7.5 nm. I found that when I got close to the torque spec they were realy tight and would stick then creak giving in to the torque in surges rather than a smooth continuous tightening. That scared me a little so when it got near the right torque and it seemed very tight I stopped.

I like the old fasioned swing arm type torque wrenches as you get a continuous feel for how much torque you are applying rather than the ones that click only when you reach the specified torque.

I haven't had any problems with any part on the bike not being tight enough.

The campy carbon seatpost should be used if you have a removable seat post binder on your frame. The clamp needs to be turned 180 degres so that the binder bolt is opposite the slot on the seat tube. This is recommended by campy. I have seen some where the post is cut right where the slot is. Easton gets around this by putting a flat spot on the side of the post that is nexted to the slot.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by pudster
The campy carbon seatpost should be used if you have a removable seat post binder on your frame. The clamp needs to be turned 180 degres so that the binder bolt is opposite the slot on the seat tube. This is recommended by campy. I have seen some where the post is cut right where the slot is. Easton gets around this by putting a flat spot on the side of the post that is nexted to the slot.

That's probably why so many campy CF post get buggered.

The campy carbon seatpost is one of the worst implementations of a carbon product I have ever seen. The special collar is just an indication of how low grade the carbon construction is. A good carbon seatpost (Like Easton, and Look) should not require any special steps to ensure it doesn't crack. It should just work. I used to own a record post which started developing cracks after a few rides.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by davidbod
I have a Deda Newton oversized bar and stem. If yours is like mine the bolts are titanium and you will definately want to be using a torque wrench. From memory the bolts for the stem to stearer tube are the same size as the bolts for the face plate to lock down the handlebar. If so they should get the same torque as specified on the website.

Like the other guy says grease the threads on the bolts (in fact you should always grease threads). Be very careful to tighten with a cross pattern on the face plate switching after about 5-10 in/lb of torque on each bolt until you get all up to specified torque. Same with the bolts to fasten to the stearer tube, swap back and forth after about 5-10 in/lb until you get them both to specified torque. When you get it up near the proper torque it will start to creak when you tighten it. Don't panic just go slow and get it up to the proper torque.

As for the seatpost I got the Deda blackstick carbon to match. I searched and couldn't find anything on how tight it should be. In the end I figured it should be tightened just like an aluminum one and should be snug enough so the post can't move but not too snug. I prayed and then started tightening and then prayed some more and tightened some more. Just kidding really, you should be able to feel this one out to get it snug without overtightening it. If in doubt undertighten it and then ride it. If it moves tighten a little more.

Now for the torque wrench your going to need a set of hex bits to fit into the torque wrench so you can tighten the bolts. Since I was putting a new bike together when I did mine I invested another 50 bucks or so and got both of the park tool torque wrenches and a hex bit set.

Check out TW-1, TW-2 and TWB-1 on this web page and they have what you need.

http://www.parktool.com/tool_indexes/catindex_torque.shtml

I found the smaller torque wrench was perfect for bolts in the 3-5 mm range, but you will probably not find a hex bit set with 1/4 inch drive so you will need a 3/4 to 1/4 adapter to put a 3/4 drive hex bit into the 1/4 drive torque wrench.

You may also be able to find this or borrow it locally as well.

Cheers

Hi,

The TW-2 is actually a 3/8 ,
I just purchased my Pegoretti with Newton stem and WR carbon seatpost and I'm waiting for it to arrive,
Anybody knows which bit sizes should I have ?
Also, what torque should I apply on the seatpost ?

Cheers,