SS Question 3 - chainring bolts

DaveB said:

Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new chainring
bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts
from the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've seen
that BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is there
any other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the LBS
I'm not going to find there are different width bolts am I?

BMX ones have worked just fine for me 3 times out of 3 so far.

Brian

DaveB said:

Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new chainring
bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts
from the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've seen
that BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is there
any other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the LBS
I'm not going to find there are different width bolts am I?

DaveB "almost there or fooling myself?"

I've got normal road ones with a washer on each and that's going fine.

Chainring bolts are overpriced I reckon and washers are cheap.

--
Nick

quote='NoZX6R'DaveB said:

Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new chainring
bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts
from the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've seen
that BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is there
any other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the LBS
I'm not going to find there are different width bolts am I?

DaveB "almost there or fooling myself?"

I've got normal road ones with a washer on each and that's going fine.

Chainring bolts are overpriced I reckon and washers are cheap.

--
Nick[/QUOTE]
Track chain ring bolts? Or would they be more expensive than the BMX items?

SteveA

DaveB said:

Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new chainring
bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts
from the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've seen
that BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is there
any other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the LBS
I'm not going to find there are different width bolts am I?

DaveB "almost there or fooling myself?"

simply a length thing (isnt everything? 🙄 ) AFAIK. LBS will probably have a jar of spares of washers or bolts. i paid $10 for some BMX ones but that was frivolous

SteveA said:

NoZX6R said:

DaveB said:

Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new

chainring

Quoted message said:

bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts
from the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've

seen

Quoted message said:

that BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is

there

Quoted message said:

any other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the

LBS

Quoted message said:

I'm not going to find there are different width bolts am I?

DaveB "almost there or fooling myself?"

I've got normal road ones with a washer on each and that's going fine.

Chainring bolts are overpriced I reckon and washers are cheap.

--
Nick

Track chain ring bolts? Or would they be more expensive than the BMX
items?

SteveA

Last time I needed to replace a broken chainring bolt the choice was
either $9 for one or $25 for 5, so I bought a whole set.

And since they seem to be pretty much the same (road, mtb, bmx) I'm
expecting that they're all about that price - I could be wrong.

This week's killer bike part is Campag Record track nuts at ~$80 a pair.
$80 for a pair of axle nuts!! wtf??

--
Nick

flyingdutch said:

simply a length thing (isnt everything? 🙄 ) AFAIK. LBS will probably have a jar of spares of washers or bolts. i paid $10 for some BMX ones but that was frivolous

Go on, go for the bling bling Ti chainring bolts. You know you want to.

SteveA🙂

NoZX6R wrote:
[..snip..]

Quoted message said:

Last time I needed to replace a broken chainring bolt the choice was
either $9 for one or $25 for 5, so I bought a whole set.

My LBS sells them (BMX) for $10 a set of 5.

Quoted message said:

And since they seem to be pretty much the same (road, mtb, bmx) I'm
expecting that they're all about that price - I could be wrong.

This week's killer bike part is Campag Record track nuts at ~$80 a pair.
$80 for a pair of axle nuts!! wtf??

I would not pay $80 for them, but I would pay a bit (maybe $20) for some
that worked. I have been through several cheap sets of track nuts.
After the first use the nuts seem to fuse to the "floating" washer and
they become normal serrated BMX axle nuts. Having the floating washers
actually float makes it much easier to get the chain adjusted and
tighten the nuts without moving the wheel.

Brian

"DaveB" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new chainring
bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts
from the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've seen
that BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is there
any other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the LBS
I'm not going to find there are different width bolts am I?

DaveB "almost there or fooling myself?"

You need to come and raid Gag's bike part emporium some time as I am pretty
sure that I have got a stack of these sitting in the shed (again from the
bulk ebay lot that I bought). I am hoping to do BR on Sunday so maybe you
could come over after that......might even drag out the water rocket!!!

Ride On,

Gags

Gags said:

You need to come and raid Gag's bike part emporium some time as I am pretty
sure that I have got a stack of these sitting in the shed (again from the
bulk ebay lot that I bought). I am hoping to do BR on Sunday so maybe you
could come over after that......might even drag out the water rocket!!!

I'll be there Sunday although I thought you were off to Beechworth this
weekend (or was that last weekend). I'm keen to hit the Gagstronics lab
seeing light building will be a priority in a couple of weeks.

DaveB

"DaveB" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Gags said:

You need to come and raid Gag's bike part emporium some time as I am

pretty

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

sure that I have got a stack of these sitting in the shed (again from

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

bulk ebay lot that I bought). I am hoping to do BR on Sunday so maybe

you

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

could come over after that......might even drag out the water rocket!!!

I'll be there Sunday although I thought you were off to Beechworth this
weekend (or was that last weekend). I'm keen to hit the Gagstronics lab
seeing light building will be a priority in a couple of weeks.

DaveB

I am off to Beechworth tomorrow to be food boy for Lindsay. I am also
taking my two kids to give the wife a day off so it might be a bit of a
challenge (3hr drive there, 6hr race, 3hr back........).

Oh well......at least I will get to see heaps of cool bikes. I will try to
take some pictures of Lindsay's pink Specialized Epic.....it is fully sick.

Feed On,

Gags

"DaveB" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Things are looking good on the project and once I get some new chainring
bolts I reckon it will be ready for a test ride. The cahin ring bolts from
the double chainring are too long so I assume that's why I've seen that
BMX chainring bolts are required. Apart from being shorter is there any
other difference in the BMX variety? If I pick up a set from the LBS I'm
not going to find there are different width bolts am I?

DaveB "almost there or fooling myself?"

Dave,
Oooh! Oooh!
I have some looorvly proper Shimano Dura-ace ones for sale. $25.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7136504385&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
Gemma

Brian Watson said:

NoZX6R wrote:
[..snip..]

Quoted message said:

Last time I needed to replace a broken chainring bolt the choice was
either $9 for one or $25 for 5, so I bought a whole set.

My LBS sells them (BMX) for $10 a set of 5.

Quoted message said:

And since they seem to be pretty much the same (road, mtb, bmx) I'm
expecting that they're all about that price - I could be wrong.

This week's killer bike part is Campag Record track nuts at ~$80 a
pair. $80 for a pair of axle nuts!! wtf??

I would not pay $80 for them, but I would pay a bit (maybe $20) for some
that worked. I have been through several cheap sets of track nuts.
After the first use the nuts seem to fuse to the "floating" washer and
they become normal serrated BMX axle nuts. Having the floating washers
actually float makes it much easier to get the chain adjusted and
tighten the nuts without moving the wheel.

Brian

The Record ones are excellent quality, but $40 is ridiculous for a nut.
Dura ace track nuts are a lot cheaper and good quality but the two have
different thread pitches.

I managed to get some record-compatible ones for $35 but they're not as
nice as the real thing.

--
Nick

Chainring bolts fixed courtesy of washers, hacksaw and a file.
Derailleur setup as chain tensioner. All systems go for a test ride.

Headed down the slight hill and everything was fine (except the bike was
returned with Look pedals and I only use eggbeaters which made pedalling
a bit of a challenge). Turned at the bottom of the hill and started back
up only to find the chain slipping. I assume the freewheel has a bit
more wear than a new chain can cope with, or vice versa. So it looks
like a new freewheel for me on Monday. But I reckon once that goes on
I'll be cooking with gas.

DaveB

DaveB said:

Chainring bolts fixed courtesy of washers, hacksaw and a file.
Derailleur setup as chain tensioner. All systems go for a test ride.

Headed down the slight hill and everything was fine (except the bike was
returned with Look pedals and I only use eggbeaters which made pedalling
a bit of a challenge). Turned at the bottom of the hill and started back
up only to find the chain slipping. I assume the freewheel has a bit
more wear than a new chain can cope with, or vice versa. So it looks
like a new freewheel for me on Monday. But I reckon once that goes on
I'll be cooking with gas.

DaveB

What sorta chain slipping? skipping some teeth but not derailing? If so, it could be that your chain is too loose and not wear on the cog. Take out the excess links till your derailer is fully stretched out. What gear combos are you running? The more teeth you have on your rear cog the less likely it'll slip as well.

Koon

Koon Yong said:

What sorta chain slipping? skipping some teeth but not derailing? If
so, it could be that your chain is too loose and not wear on the cog.
Take out the excess links till your derailer is fully stretched out.
What gear combos are you running? The more teeth you have on your rear
cog the less likely it'll slip as well.

Koon

Thanks Koon. Skipping some teeth is the problem and the derailer is not
fully stretched (wasn't sure what the go was there). So I'll try
shortening it some more. I'm running ... embarassed cough .. 39/17.

DaveB

quote='DaveB'Koon Yong said:

Thanks Koon. Skipping some teeth is the problem and the derailer is not
fully stretched (wasn't sure what the go was there). So I'll try
shortening it some more. I'm running ... embarassed cough .. 39/17.

DaveB[/QUOTE]

17 rear is pretty good, of course more teeth the better. I wouldn't go less than 16 is you're using a tensioning device. 39x17 is a pretty decent gear ... nothing to be embarassed about there 🙂

Koon

we can send them anywhere in Oz for 14$
http://store.yahoo.com/idealcycles/tracac.html

DaveB said:

Thanks Koon. Skipping some teeth is the problem and the derailer is not
fully stretched (wasn't sure what the go was there). So I'll try
shortening it some more. I'm running ... embarassed cough .. 39/17.

DaveB

Nuts, it turns out it was stretched as much as possible. I thought I had
enough slack to remove one more link but as it turns out, not quite (and
the fact that I need a new chain breaker is causing undue stress).
However I'm not convinced I still haven't missed something. I get the
feeling the rear sprocket it is going on to isn't close enough to the
line behind the chainring (is that what they mean by chainline?), with
the rear sprocket too close to the hub.

DaveB

DaveB said:

Nuts, it turns out it was stretched as much as possible. I thought I had
enough slack to remove one more link but as it turns out, not quite (and
the fact that I need a new chain breaker is causing undue stress).
However I'm not convinced I still haven't missed something. I get the
feeling the rear sprocket it is going on to isn't close enough to the
line behind the chainring (is that what they mean by chainline?), with
the rear sprocket too close to the hub.

Chainline is the imagined line between the front and rear sprockets. The
rear sprocket should be exactly behind the front sprocket so that the
chain runs in a straight line. If you do not have this "perfect
chainline" you will experience chain derailment, possibly like what
you're experiencing now. Check your chainline - measure it.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline/

hippy